Exile Kiss

Tender, Juicy and Crisp? Roast Chicken Battle - Melisse, Costco, Pollo Ala Brasa, Rustic Canyon, Zankou, A Frame, Gjelina, Marouch, Lola's, and more!

2011-03-18T14:59:00.000-07:00

"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."
(George Santayana, The Life of Reason)

As I look back at the events that have transpired that have led me to this point, I can only close my eyes and weep bitter tears of sorrow. This is the final account of yet another utterly stupid and foolish journey in search of a great dish, this time, the perfect Roast Chicken. Surely my friends and I had learned our lessons from the last Gourmet Burger Battle? How did it end up like this?

[Some Time Ago...]

Months had gone by since the day of utter lunacy and stupidity known as the Gourmet Burger Battle. I managed to reconnect with "lost" friends, and pretty soon we were able to broach the subject of Food again, without anyone wincing in fear. In what I thought was a brilliant way to counteract the damage done by that tragic Burger exploration, I challenged everyone to name their favorite Roast Chicken. After all, what could be more healthy than a wonderful Roast Chicken? Perfectly cooked, with crisped skin (and all the fat rendered away), and juicy, moist white meat and dark meat. Enjoyed with a fresh Organic Salad and you've got just the thing to heal the wounds from the Bovine Burger gorging that shattered our friendships. :)

Most of my Hounds seemed to perk up and suggestions began to fly, "Costco! It's so cheap and it tastes good." "It's all about Zankou and the Garlic Sauce." "Pollo Ala Brasa: Best Chicken in town!" etc.

I foolishly thought I outsmarted myself: "This time will be different! This time, it's finding a wonderful, healthy Roast Chicken!" "There's far less cholesterol and fat with this dish than a decadent Gourmet Burger!" "It'll be OK... (I hope)." :)

And so I began compiling the list of finalists, and we began to scout out places. I remember the wonderful work that Chowpatty and all the veteran Hounds did years ago, with their Roast Chicken showdowns. I remembered an old L.A. Times article by Judith Kane Jeanson on Rotisserie Chickens that got me hungry to find great Chicken around town.

Soon, the list grew to around ~34 or so places to try. Now that "Roast Chicken" was at the forefront of my mind, I suddenly realized it seemed like *every* restaurant in Southern California served some kind of Roast Chicken. The list soon started looking like the Yellow Pages for Restaurants across the Southland. And Desolation set in. Like the first astronaut that stared directly into a black hole, we realized that our puny list of restaurants to try probably represented only 0.000002% of the restaurants around So Cal that serves Roast Chicken, and as a result it was already a failure.

But we pressed on, cheerfully trying to do our best to find the best Roast Chicken in Southern California. After some initial visits, we had a list of 20 Finalists. And the Roast Chicken Battle began! The first few restaurants were quite fun. Jaunting across the "wonderful" L.A. freeways in traffic, traveling to wherever the possibility of great Roast Chicken existed, but after the 3rd place, my friends began disappearing (again). Like a sequel to a bad Hollywood blockbuster movie, this one only got worse. The next day and the day after that yielded fewer and fewer people until finally the entire Battle ended in utter failure: I had hoped to visit each restaurant at least 3 times (in the interest of consistency and fairness), so a combined 44 visits later, we failed to reach the target of 60 visits to the restaurants, and for that, I have failed my fellow Hounds again. :(

So here are the incomplete results of our Roast Chicken Battle (special thanks to my 'dachi Noah from Man Bites World and veteran Hound mollyomormon for helping judge the last day :) -

(Note 1: Each Rating is based on the Roast Chicken itself. Specifically, (1) How well the meat was cooked (juicy? dry? overcooked? just right?); (2) How flavorful the meat was; and (3) The crispness of the skin (a wonderful Roast Chicken has to have slightly crisped skin). :)

(Note 2: Food is totally subjective, but for Roast Chicken, it's even more pronounced. I know plenty of people who do *not* eat Chicken skin; the first thing they do is remove all the skin, regardless of if it's wonderful, well-seasoned, crisped, or not. So for those people, that's not even a factor (but it is for us).)

(Note 3: Unlike Burgers, Roast Chicken is really challenging. There is no "medium-rare" or "medium" for a Chicken. In this country, if you attempt to serve a customer medium-rare Chicken, complaints would shut down a restaurant immediately. There's only a tiny window from when a Chicken just hits "well done" (cooked just through), before it quickly turns to "overcooked." It's brutal, and it makes total sense why so many restaurants serve their Chicken overcooked. It'd be better to serve a customer a Chicken that's 30 seconds overcooked, instead of 30 seconds undercooked, especially with a Roast Chicken where you can't break the skin open without the juices gushing out. If it was slightly undercooked, it's too late for a restaurant to try and "fix it" at that point.)

* Special Mention *
Dino's Chicken and Burgers (Los Angeles)

While this is a Roast Chicken Battle, I wanted to discuss Dino's, since it seemed like every Roast Chicken thread on Chowhound always elicited at least one recommendation for Dino's. That, and I've been hearing so many good things about Dino's, I couldn't wait for an excuse to try it out. (^_~)

As listed on their menu, website and repeated to me by their friendly staff, Dino's serves a "Char-Broiled Chicken." It's a fiery orange-colored bird that's completely coated in their proprietary spice mix and fire-grilled until ready to serve.

When we finally get our order, I see what people are talking about: Dino's Char-Broiled Chicken is a 1/2 Chicken, glowing in this gorgeous, eye-catching orange hue, on a bed of French Fries that are coated in this orange-colored Sauce as well.

Dino's Char-Broiled Chicken (1/2)
Price: $6 (including tax)
Includes: Fries and Cole Slaw

There's a nice smoky quality wafting to our noses, and the white meat is moist with slightly tart notes from the Vinegar, and unique flavors from the Paprika, Chile Flakes and their other spices. There's a gentle heat that adds to the tantalizing quality of this bird.

The dark meat is slightly dried out (surprisingly), but generally still moist. If there was one thing to improve upon, it'd be to have a deeper permeation of their spices into the meat.

While Dino's Chicken isn't a traditional Roast Chicken, their distinctive spice / sauce combination makes it a worthwhile consideration if you're looking for a good Chicken dish in the area. And the Fries coated in their proprietary Sauce is definitely addicting. :)

Rating: n/a

Dino's Chicken and Burgers (Los Angeles Branch)
2575 West Pico Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Tel: (213) 380-3554

* Cash Only *

Hours: Sun - Thurs, 6:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 6:00 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight

http://www.dinoschickenandburgers.com/

* 19th Place *
Zankou Chicken (Pasadena)

One of the most baffling (yet obvious) discoveries I had during this Roast Chicken Battle was that not all Zankou Chicken locations are the same. Thinking about it, it should be pretty straightforward: Every location has different people manning the kitchens, so the way their Chicken comes out would naturally have some variance as well. For the longest time, my experience with "Zankou" involved my 4 - 5 visits to the Anaheim and Pasadena branches, since those are the ones I first tried, visiting friends in those areas. After the lackluster meals I had at both locations, I never bothered trying any other branches.

Zankou Chicken's most famous element is their special Garlic Spread that comes with their various Chicken dishes. It's so addictive and popular, that people remember their Garlic Spread more than the Chicken itself at times. :) We quickly place an order for their signature:

Roast Chicken Plate (Half)
Price: $8.99 (Whole Chicken Only, $8.99 / Half Chicken Only, $6.39)
Includes: Hummus, Pickles, Garlic Spread & Pita Bread

Zankou Pasadena's Roast Chicken is a complete salt bomb. :( Everyone recoils, and reaches for a drink, as the skin is probably 200% as salty as it needs to be. (Three visits to Zankou Pasadena have yielded the same result.) There's a slight crispness on the Skin for 1 of the visits; the other 2 visits have a slightly flabby Skin.

The Chicken Breast is overcooked, but still has some moisture to it, and the Chicken Wing is overcooked to the point of being inedible (completely dried out). The Chicken Leg & Thigh portions fare better (with the higher fat content helping), being generally moist underneath the overly salty Skin.

If my experience to Zankou was limited to just this branch, I'd still be wondering what the excitement over "Zankou Chicken" is all about, but thankfully not all branches are created equal. :)

Rating: 4.5 (out of 10)

Zankou Chicken (Pasadena)
1296 E. Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91106
Tel: (626) 405-1502

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 10:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.

http://www.zankouchicken.com/

* 18th Place *
Langer's Delicatessen

The legendary L.A. institution, Langer's, is famous and responsible for arguably the greatest Pastrami on the planet, but how does their Roast Chicken fare?

I was always curious how their Roast Chicken (and other menu items) would turn out:

1/2 Roast Stuffed Chicken
Price: $16.50
Includes: Soup & Salad

Langer's Roast Chicken is of the most commonly found, "gigantic bird" variety, the new types of Chicken bred for huge Chicken Breasts that are found in most places these days. The most interesting aspect of their Roast Chicken is that it is "stuffed," with a classic bread-based stuffing that reminds one of Thanksgiving. It's soft and moist, and comforting, and they stuff it between the Skin and the meat.

Unfortunately the Chicken Skin itself is flabby and mushy, drenched in their Brown Gravy Sauce. The white meat is a touch dry, but the dark meat is more enjoyable, but overall, there's this muted quality about it (it tastes like what you'd expect from a typical diner Roast Chicken).

While Langer's Roast Chicken isn't anything noteworthy, don't let the Roast Chicken rating detract you from trying their legendary, mouth-watering Pastrami if you haven't done so already. :)

Rating: 5.0 (out of 10)

Langer's Delicatessen
704 S. Alvarado Street
Los Angeles, CA 90057
Tel: (213) 483-8050

Hours: Mon - Sat, 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays.

http://www.langersdeli.com/

* 17th Place *
Soumarelo

Soumarelo is a prime example of one of the problems of going to a restaurant with low turnover: Reheated Chicken. :( Located on a quiet corner in Pasadena, during our first visit we're the only customers, at prime lunch hour (12 Noon), no less. While I see no Chickens roasting in their oven, I quickly place an order and we sit down to wait for the food.

I see the chef walk into the back kitchen, and we hear a "Click" "(Slam)" and "Beep, Beep, Beep..." and then the "(whirring)" of a microwave. After a few minutes and the signature "Beep! Beep! Beep!" that we all know so well, he comes back out front with a plate of:

Rotisserie Chicken (Half)
Price: $6.99
Includes: 8 oz Rice, 2 Pita Breads, 2 Garlic Paste Containers

Slightly shocked in disbelief, we each sample a bite, and sure enough... Microwaved Chicken. (>_<) The Chicken is rubbery and dried out, with the infamous aftereffects of what happens when you microwave meat. It's chunky and dessicated and pretty disgusting.

There are some portions of the Breast that managed to be decent actually, with a fragrant taste that shows promise.

Wanting to give them another try, I arrive for another visit, making sure there are some other customers in the restaurant this time, and fortunately, there were 2 Chickens roasting in the oven. We order a Whole Chicken this time, hoping that we get one of their freshly cooked Chickens instead of a reheated bird:

Rotisserie Chicken (Whole)
Price: $8.99
Includes: 16 oz Rice, 4 Pita Breads, 4 Garlic Paste Containers

This time, we received a freshly cooked Chicken, chopped up and delivered immediately to our table. And the results are far better: The white meat is a touch overcooked, but mostly moist, it's tender, and their overnight marinade gives the meat a nice savoriness. The Chicken Skin is soft and mushy, though, unfortunately.

They also make their own version of a Garlic Sauce (in a nod to Zankou), made with fresh Garlic and Yogurt, which results in a very smooth, pungent, fragrant Garlic Sauce that works great with the Chicken.

Soumarelo has potential to deliver a solid Roast Chicken, if you're lucky to get there when they have decent turnover. If you happen to show up and see no Chickens being cooked, you might want to consider skipping out, unless you enjoy Microwaved Chicken.

Rating: 5.1 (out of 10)

Soumarelo
1090 N. Allen
Pasadena, CA 91104
Tel: (626) 791-0999

http://www.soumarelo.com/

* 16th Place *
Reddi Chick

Located in the Brentwood Country Mart, Reddi Chick has been a popular eatery for the locals for decades. After fighting through the long line on a pleasant sunny day, we sit down and enjoy their:

Roast Chicken Basket (1/2)
Price: $8
Includes: No sides.

The Chicken Breast is overcooked and dried out, and sadly, very plain. The Leg and Thigh is moist, but the skin is severely undercooked: There are huge globules of fat deposits (normally rendered away during roasting), with unappetizing, undercooked skin around the Thigh area. :(
The Chicken Wing manages to be the best part of the Chicken, being cooked just right, and quite juicy.

Overall, Reddi Chick's Roast Chicken is a safe, unevenly cooked, plain Roast Chicken, that tastes underseasoned (and I enjoy light cooking).

Rating: 5.3 (out of 10)

Reddi Chick
(in the Brentwood Country Mart)
225 26th Street
Santa Monica, CA 90402
Tel: (310) 393-5238

Hours: Mon - Sat, 10:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.

http://brentwoodcountrymart.com/food/food_reddi.php

* 15th Place *
Costco (Alhambra)

One of the most talked about places for Roast Chicken in many of the Chowhound threads is none other than Costco. It's been talked about so much that all of us agreed that we had to give it a try. We ended up trying the Alhambra Costco since one of our dear SGV Hounds happened to have a membership and volunteered to pick this up for us.

(Apologies for the lack of pictures: Both visits were impromptu and I didn't have my camera with me.)

Costco Rotisserie Chicken (Whole)
Price: $4.99
Includes: No Sides.

Perhaps the most obvious appeal of Costco's Chicken is the price and value: An entire Rotisserie Chicken for $4.99?! That's pretty hard to beat.

In terms of actual taste, both samplings were held quickly after purchase (my SGV Hound that volunteered lives extremely close to the Costco, within minutes), so all of us got to sample it while it was "fresh."

I had low expectations for their Chicken, but surprisingly, both times we tried it, most of us agreed that it was well-seasoned. The white meat was overcooked, but still retained some moisture, and the dark meat was still juicy / fatty. The Skin was a travesty, however, being sealed in those plastic containers (really off-putting for me, personally), the Skin is essentially "steamed" and flabby, but the rest of the Chicken turned out to be decent.

It's not something we'd go out of our way for, but given the value and flavor, it needs to be part of the conversation.

Rating: 5.7 (out of 10)

Costco (Alhambra)
2207 West Commonwealth Ave.
Alhambra, CA 91803
Tel: (626) 289-7164

Hours: Mon - Fri, 10:00 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.
Sat, 9:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Sun, 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

http://www.costco.com/

* 14th Place *
Pollos El Brasero (Pico Blvd., L.A. Branch)

Advertising that they cook their Chicken using firewood, Pollos El Brasero was one of the places I was looking forward to the most. During the first visit, we order their:

1 Pollo Solo (1 Whole Roast Chicken)
Price: $10.67 (Combinations with various Sides available as well)
Includes: No Sides.

There's a light smokiness present in each bite, which is appealing. And a predominant Salt and Pepper flavor coming through. There's something off about the Chicken (for me), that the other Hounds aren't noticing, but we continue on and finish the meal. It's probably the Monosodium Glutamate, in combination with their Cumin, Salt and Pepper spice rub.

The white meat is overcooked and a touch dry. The Chicken Wing is completely overcooked and inedible (i.e., totally dried out). The dark meat is the most flavorful portion (as expected), but overall, it just didn't grab any of us. Another visit yielded similar results (Breast overcooked, Wings overcooked, etc.).

Rating: 6.0 (out of 10)

Pollos El Brasero
2281 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Tel: (213) 381-6060

Hours: Tues - Sun, 10:00 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

* 13th Place *
Super Pollo (Van Nuys)

Thanks to a tip from some veteran Hounds in an old thread, we couldn't wait to give this place a try. Using a variety of "mixed firewood," according to the manager, they have a limited amount of Chickens they roast each day. We quickly placed our order for:

Rotisserie Chicken (1/2)
Price: $7.77
Includes: 2 Sides

There's a good Garlic and Salt flavor pervading each bite. A light smokiness is also evident, adding a welcome facet to their Chicken. The white meat is overcooked, but generally moist, with the dark meat being the most enjoyable aspect of this dish with a gentle Garlic and Salt wave hitting you with each bite. The Skin is limp and flabby, but at least most of the fat has been rendered out of it.

Super Pollo represents a respectable, well-seasoned, smoky Roast Chicken. A good, middle-of-the-road Peruvian-style Chicken that's worth a try if you're in the neighborhood.

Rating: 6.1 (out of 10)

Super Pollo
14519 Sherman Way
Van Nuys, CA 91405
Tel: (818) 785-6991

Hours: Mon - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

* 12th Place *
California Chicken Cafe (Santa Monica)

Thanks to quite a few recommendations from various Hounds and friends, we decided to try California Chicken Cafe (Santa Monica Branch). I still remember passing by their original Melrose location so many times in the past, always wondering if I should stop by and give it a try. Now, I was finally getting a chance. :)

The first big positive was apparent the moment we stepped inside: High volume turnover. The place was packed (and remained that way throughout our visits). With so many customers, we could see the kitchen working non-stop on making sure there were plenty of Chickens freshly roasting in the ovens.

Beyond that, it's a rather simple, "fast food-ish" type operation, walk up and order at the counter, and grab a table. Our order arrives about 10 minutes later:

Whole Chicken
Price: $19.50 (available ala carte for $10.50)
Includes: 2 Sides

There's a beautiful golden brown color on their Roast Chicken and we quickly dig in. The Chicken Breast is moist, but there's a slightly mealy texture that adds to a "dryish" feeling. The meat is lightly salted, but just enough to make it taste "well-seasoned, but light." A few Hounds really appreciated this aspect of California Chicken Cafe.

Their Chicken Wings are sadly overcooked to the point of being inedible (totally dried out). The Legs and Thighs are just right, retaining plenty of moisture and flavor. The one odd point about their seasonings however, was that despite the Chicken being flecked with finely chopped herbs, none of us could really taste any standouts: Mainly a clean, simple, Salt flavor coming through. And despite the wonderful golden color, the Skin was flaccid, lacking any crispness.

I can definitely see the appeal of California Chicken Cafe: It's a clean, easy-to-order operation, delivering a safe, straightforward, fresh-tasting Chicken with a variety of healthy sides (e.g., Chinese Cabbage Salad, Fresh Squash, Fresh Fruit, Broccoli Soup, etc.).

Rating: 6.3 (out of 10)

California Chicken Cafe (Santa Monica)
2401 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90403
Tel: (310) 453-0477

Hours: Mon - Fri, 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sat, 12:00 p.m. Noon - 10:00 p.m.

http://www.californiachickencafe.com/

* 11th Place *
Bonano's Chicken

One of the restaurants I was most looking forward to during this food battle was Bonano's. I had never heard of it before, but after some strong recommendations, I gathered as many of my Hounds that were willing to make the drive and off we went. :) We ordered a few plates of their Peruvian-style Roast Chicken. Pictured here is an order of their:

Medio Pollo (1/2 Chicken)
Price: $9.50
Includes: 2 Sides

The first thing that hit all of us, was how disappointing the Skin was: Yet another restaurant with flimsy, limp Skin, but there was at least a good smokiness about it.

But then digging into the meat, we all noticed something off-tasting about it. It wasn't to the point of being inedible, but it wasn't bright; it didn't sing. The Chicken Breast is overcooked, with some edges totally dried out. The Leg was also disappointing, having an entire edge that was dried out (over-exposed to the heat). The highlight was their Thigh, being extremely moist and juicy, with their spices seemingly concentrated into that area.

And thankfully, their Wing wasn't overcooked like too many other places, with a nice concentration of Chicken essence and smokiness all in a tiny bite.

A special note about their Fries: If you're looking for a crispy style of Fry, you should avoid Bonano's version, unless you enjoy soft, hefty, Potato chunks (that taste more like slabs of Baked Potato with no crispiness at all). There's nothing wrong with this style, just be prepared if you're ordering it.

2 more meals to Bonano's revealed the same experience. During the 3rd meal there, the Breast was completely overcooked, to the point of being really dry. There's an intense smoke pungency that goes all the way down to the core of the bone. I enjoy good smoky BBQ, but the smokiness here got to the point that it was beyond distracting (all of the Hounds who sampled it agreed).

Rating: 6.4 (out of 10)

Bonano's Chicken
8363 Reseda Blvd., Suite 13
Northridge, CA 91324
Tel: (818) 775-1373

Hours: Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.
Sat - Sun, 9:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.

* 10th Place *
Le Petit Jardin

Thanks to the enthusiastic reviews from NickSt, ak, and a few other Hounds, we made our way over to the oddest of the Roast Chicken restaurants in this battle: Le Petit Jardin. It's "odd" because Le Petit Jardin happens to be a Flower Shop (cute! :), and a Restaurant, at the same time.

We sit down and place our order for their:

Roasted Chicken (1/2)
Price: $15
Includes: Pommes Frites

Le Petit Jardin's kitchen begins with seasoning the bird with Herbes de Provence, Garlic, Salt, Pepper and Olive Oil and partially cooking the Chicken. They then finish roasting the Chicken when orders are placed by customers.

The white meat is overcooked, but still succulent enough to be enjoyable. The dark meat fares much better, still fatty and tender. The Wing makes it through, 100% intact, without being dried out. But it's the delicate, fragrant notes of Thyme and Fennel in the Herbes de Provence, and the slightly crisped Skin (finally, a contender that achieved this :), that make this stand out from the earlier entries.

Rating: 6.7 (out of 10)

Le Petit Jardin
1456 South Robertson Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90035
Tel: (310) 278-5294

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Fri, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

http://www.lepetitjardinbistro.com/

* 9th Place *
Lola's Chicken Pollo A La Brasa (Van Nuys)

Given how large the lettering is for "Pollo A La Brasa" on their sign, it almost feels like they were trying to cash in on the popularity of the most-talked about eatery of that name in Downtown L.A. We enter and I note that they have a stack of firewood, ready to cook their Chickens with; always a good sign. :)

On the first visit, we order:

1/2 Pollo Dos Acompanamientos (Half Chicken with 2 Items)
Price: $8.99
Includes: 2 Sides.

On the first visit, their Chicken Breast is extremely juicy, with strong notes of Black Pepper and Salt, and just a touch too salty. The Wing is bit overcooked, but still edible, and the Chicken Leg is also a bit overcooked. The Thigh is the lushest portion, and seasoned just right (so their seasoning overall was extremely uneven).

On another visit, the Chicken Breast is slightly overcooked and a bit on the dry side, but it still tastes fresh and bright. The dark meat is more flavorful, but the Skin is just as flabby as the first time. Sadly, during both visits, even though they use firewood to cook the Chicken, there is no perceptible smoke flavor. Odd.

Rating: 6.8 (out of 10)

Lola's Chicken Pollo A La Brasa
14851 Victory Blvd. #C
Van Nuys, CA 91411
Tel: (818) 988-2181

Hours: Sun - Thu, 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.

* 8th Place *
Gourmet Grill Masters

My first experience with Gourmet Grill Masters was years ago, at the Hollywood Farmers Market. I remember seeing their grill truck, with a row of tantalizing Chickens, slowly roasting. Gourmet Grill Masters is a mobile / catering business, and their Chickens appear at a variety of Farmers Markets across Southern California each week (their website lists a full schedule of where they'll be appearing).

Combo 4 (1/2 Chicken)
Price: $10 (1 Whole Chicken only, $11)
Includes: Roasted Garlic Potatoes, Pita Bread, Drink

What's unique about Gourmet Grill Masters is that they use an infrared cooking apparatus, with No Oils and No Butter to roast their Chicken. We're all pretty excited to see how much of a difference their cooking style makes on a classic Roast Chicken. The end result?

It's a pretty clean, non-oily Chicken dish. There are some nice hints of herbs, especially the Rosemary, used in combination with Garlic, Thyme, Oregano, Cumin, Salt and Pepper. This is the first Chicken (so far) to get a genuine, subtle herbal penetration into the Chicken meat itself (and not just a surface flavor).

While the Chicken Breast is overcooked (more dry than moist), the Chicken Skin is slightly crisp, which is a huge positive. The Chicken Leg is generally delicious, but there's one edge that's dried out and overcooked (exposed to too much heat). The Chicken Thigh is bursting with flavor, with a firm, but supple chew, and some good notes of Oregano and Rosemary coming through.

Gourmet Grill Masters also makes their own version of a Garlic Dip, and it's quite fragrant and tastes freshly made, but after a few bites, there's just too much of a Mayo taste and it begins to feel too heavy.

Their Roasted Garlic Potatoes, which use the fat drippings from their Rotisserie Chicken(!), sound decadent, but have been sitting on the flattop too long, crisped on one side, and too overcooked on another side.

Rating: 7.0 (out of 10)

Gourmet Grill Masters
Appearing at the Hollywood, Manhattan Beach, West Hollywood, Long Beach, Westchester, South Pasadena, and other Farmers Markets every week. See website for more details.

http://www.grillmasters-chicken.com/

* 7th Place *
Zankou Chicken (West L.A. Branch)

When a restaurant expands to more than 1 location, and they begin to build a brand, as a customer, you always hope that the experience you get at any of restaurant's locations would be the same, regardless of where you dine at. Sadly, in the case of Zankou Chicken it's not the case, but happily they have at least one location that shines above some of their other branches: Zankou Chicken (West L.A.), on Sepulveda Blvd.

While I've passed by this Zankou location many times, I had never bothered to stop by since my initial exposure to "Zankou Chicken" was from visiting my friends and trying their Anaheim and Pasadena locations. Underwhelmed, I never felt the urge to try any other locales. But for this Roast Chicken Battle, after hearing so many Hounds pour out their love of Zankou, I wanted to try another location, and we chose their West Los Angeles branch, on Sepulveda Blvd. What a difference a different kitchen staff makes!

Whole Chicken
Price: $9.19
Includes: Garlic Spread, Pita Bread

During each of my visits to the West L.A. location, there's always a big crowd, meaning high turnover and a good chance you'll get a freshly cooked Chicken. Our Chicken arrives, and the skin is slightly crisped, lightly salted (excellent), with the white meat being overcooked, a little dry, but still retaining good moisture. Half of the Chicken Wings (on each side) are dried out unfortunately, but the dark meat is flavorful, slightly fatty and delicious.

Follow-up visits, yield similar results at this location: The kitchen staff has a much more deft hand at seasoning than the Pasadena and Anaheim locations. The Rotisserie Chicken has always been lightly seasoned, and tastes like a solid, basic Roast Chicken.

A special mention of Zankou's famous and popular Garlic Spread. According to our server, it's Vegetarian and Dairy-Free. There's a real burst of Garlic flavors coming through, and it doesn't taste oily at all. If you take the Roast Chicken *with* their Garlic Spread, it's a winning combination and quite addictive. :) But we're evaluating the Chicken on its own at this point (but be sure to enjoy their Chicken with the Garlic Spread if you happen to go). :)

I think Noah summed it up best, when he said, "I'd be perfectly happy having their Chicken on a lunch break." Zankou Chicken (West L.A.) is fairly priced for their Rotisserie Chickens, in a clean setting, and their light hand in the kitchen helps make a consistently, basic, solid Roast Chicken that serves as a good baseline. It's not something I'd drive across town for, but if I'm in the area, I'd be fine stopping in for their Chicken.

Rating: 7.1 (out of 10)

Zankou Chicken (West L.A.)
1716 S. Sepulveda Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90025
Tel: (310) 444-0550

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 10:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m.

http://www.zankouchicken.com/

* 6th Place *
Marouch Restaurant

Thanks to veteran Hound David Kahn for yet another great recommendation :), Marouch is located in a tiny strip mall in a quieter section of Hollywood. Once inside, you're treated to a relaxed, comfortable setting, with warm browns and yellows, and glass top tables.

One note: Marouch's Roast Chicken requires a 2 Hour Advanced Notice, since they cook it, specifically for your order.

Having ordered their Chicken ahead of time, we sit down and after a few minutes, the Chicken arrives:

Farrouj (incorrectly translated as "Barbecued Whole Chicken" on the menu) (Whole, Rotisserie Young Chicken)
Price: $19.99
Includes: Homemade Pickles, Markouk ("Extremely thin bread"), Homemade Garlic Sauce, Riz-b-chayrieh (romanization courtesy of the Marouch staff) (Homemade Chicken Stock Rice with Angel Hair Noodles).

Having been open for over 29 years(!), Marouch preps their Young Chicken with an overnight marinade of Salt, Lemon, Pepper and Garlic. They then roast each Chicken only upon advanced order. The result is a custom-cooked Roast Chicken, *just for you.* And you can taste the difference:

The highlight of their Chicken is the positively lovely crackling, crisp Chicken Skin. YES! (^_^)v The fat has been rendered out, and all that's left is this golden, brittle, wonderful Chicken Skin that's missing in so many Roast Chickens around town. It needs to be said again: It's crackling, crisp and just awesome. :)

After breaking through the stunning, crispy Chicken Skin, we find that the white meat is sadly overcooked. It's not completely dry or "bad," but it's overcooked like ~99% of the Roast Chicken dishes we sampled around town, still exhibiting some moisture, but a few minutes less in the oven, and the white meat would be perfect.

The Leg and Thigh are much better, with the crispy Skin and juicy Thigh meat being the ultimate highlight for this dish. During my 2nd visit, a portion of the Leg was way overcooked (really dried out), but otherwise, it was fine.

The only other knock on Marouch is that their Chicken tastes a bit bland. The Salt, Lemon notes are the only things that really come through, and even then, they don't really permeate deep into the meat itself.

But that can be alleviated with some of their Homemade Garlic Sauce. Using fresh Garlic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Potatoes(!), they create their own version of a "Garlic Sauce" and the end result is a beautiful, creamy, delicate Garlic Sauce that tastes like a refined, haute-version of Zankou's Garlic Spread.

Marouch comes close to breaking into the upper echelon of great Roast Chickens, with an amazing crackling, crisp Chicken Skin, a custom-cooked Chicken made just for you, and a fantastic Homemade Garlic Sauce. Unfortunately, the very light seasoning and overcooked bird prevents it from reaching perfection. Still, one of the better Roast Chickens I've had around town. :)

Rating: 7.7 (out of 10)

Marouch Restaurant
4905 Santa Monica Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
Tel: (323) 662-9325

Hours: Tues - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays.

http://www.marouchrestaurant.com/

* 4th Place (TIE) *
A-Frame

The latest collaboration with (in)famous Chef Roy Choi (of Kogi Tacos fame), A-Frame is a re-envisioning of the modern picnic scene, with shared tables, and lots of finger food. While we were able to sample a variety of items, the primary dish we were there for arrived a few minutes after we placed our order:

Cracklin Beer Can Chicken (Whole)
Price: $19
Includes: Kimchee, Century Egg, Sala Roja & Verde

Chef Roy Choi and staff marinate the Chicken overnight, then roasts the Chicken for 4 hours, before deep-frying the bird before serving it. The result is a Chicken that's true to its name: A crackling, crispy Skin that has echoes of Fried Chicken, but also retains its Roast Chicken basis. The Skin is definitely the highlight, being very well seasoned, with a fragrant mix of spices that goes beyond the standard typical "Roast Chicken" flavors you'd expect, all with a crispy crunch. :)

Sadly, after the wonderful Skin, the rest of the Chicken is overcooked. The Chicken Breast is dryish, with much of the flavor coming from the well-seasoned Skin mixing with the meat in your mouth as you chew. The dark meat is just fine, however, and makes for a satisfying meal overall.

The Century Egg is a travesty, however, tasting like an extremely overcooked Hard Boiled Egg; nothing like the more homely (and yet far superior) Tea Eggs or Stewed Eggs found in so many homes and convenience stores and restaurants across Asia.

And the Salsa Roja and Salsa Verde taste rather straightforward and pedestrian, interfering more with the Chicken than really augmenting the enjoyment of the dish.

While the Chicken meat itself was overcooked, the crispy, enticingly seasoned Chicken Skin really made this version stand out for all the Chicken Skin lovers out there. :)

Rating: 8.0 (out of 10)

A-Frame
12565 Washington Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90066
Tel: (310) 398-7700

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 5:00 p.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight

http://aframela.com/

* 4th Place (TIE) *
Pollo Ala Brasa (Western)

One of the most popular, and most-talked about Roast Chicken places in L.A., Pollo Ala Brasa (Western), on the corner of Western Avenue and 8th Street in Koreatown was founded years ago by Jose Maekawa and his sister, Japanese-Peruvians, who moved to this country and opened their original location which stands to this day. (Note: There are a ton of "Pollo Ala Brasa"-named restaurants around L.A., but this is the only restaurant run by the Maekawas, and the one that's garnered the attention.)

Over the 7 visits to Pollo Ala Brasa, there's never been a time where I haven't been engaged the moment I stepped within a 2 block radius of the little eatery: The wonderful smell of Oak and Cherry Wood burning all day long to power their ovens immediately captures your senses. :)

Another important aspect that Pollo Ala Brasa has going for it is high volume: There are always customers in line, dining in, and waiting for an order of their famous Rotisserie Chicken, which really helps to ensure that you get a freshly-cooked Chicken for your order.

While they sell their Chickens in 1/4, 1/2 and whole portions, I usually end up ordering:

Whole Rotisserie Chicken
Price: $10.16 (there are a variety of Combinations with various Sides available.)
Includes: No Sides.

Over the course of 7 visits, 5 of the visits have yielded a generally succulent and moist Chicken, with the Chicken Breast only slightly overcooked, but mostly juicy. 2 of the visits have had Chicken that's overcooked a bit too much, with the Breast being too dry.

But what really makes Pollo Ala Brasa (Western)'s Chicken standout is their perfect *balance* of Oak and Cherry Wood smokiness that accentuates without overpowering (unlike Bonano's, for example), in combination with their Wine and spice marinade.

The Wine and spice marinade helps to keep the Chicken mostly moist, and adds tremendous depth of flavor that makes it stand out from most places around town.

And while the white meat isn't perfect, the dark meat has been great during each of my 7 visits. The Chicken Skin has been a mixed bag, however, with some visits yielding a slightly crisped Skin, and other visits having flabby Skin (but still quite flavorful).

For the Chili Heads out there, be sure to try their homemade Aji Sauce, which is a super-spicy, fragrant hot sauce, that delivers immediate incendiary heat to the palate. :) I find it a touch too overpowering for my Chicken, but 2 of my Hounds couldn't stop using it during a few of our visits. :)

Pollo Ala Brasa (Western) has gained a massive following for good reason: It delivers outstanding Peruvian-style Rotisserie Chicken, with a unique, smoky, well-seasoned flavor that's hard to beat. Recommended.

Rating: 8.0 (out of 10)

Pollo Ala Brasa (Western)
764 S. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90005
Tel: (213) 387-1531

Hours: Wed - Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesdays.

* 3rd Place *
Gjelina

The darling of Abbot Kinney, Gjelina was one of the biggest surprises in this Roast Chicken Battle. I had enjoyed my first meal at Gjelina a while back and remembered that they served a "Roast Chicken" on their menu, so I rounded up my 'dachi Noah and off we went to try their:

Roasted Half Jidori Chicken
Price: $24
Includes: Braised Collard Greens, Cippolini & Fingerling Potatoes

The first thing that strikes us is that the Chicken Breast is well-cooked. While it's a *touch* overcooked, it's luscious, with a wonderful crisp Skin.

The Leg and Thigh are also excellent, encased in that crisp Skin and with a clean Salt & Pepper seasoning coming through.

Gjelina sources their Natural Poultry from Premier Meat Company, and from the crisped Skin, clean, fresh Salt and Pepper flavors, and juicy Chicken, you have all the makings of a "classic American Roast Chicken," well-executed.

Rating: 8.3 (out of 10)

Gjelina
1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard
Venice, CA 90291
Tel: (310) 450-1429

Hours: Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight (they stop serving most plates between 3 p.m. - 5:30 p.m.)
Sat - Sun, 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight

http://www.gjelina.com/

* 2nd Place *
Melisse

One of the most celebrated restaurants in Los Angeles, winner of 2 Michelin Stars, helmed by Executive Chef / Owner Josiah Citrin and Chef de Cuisine Ken Takayama, I had to try Melisse's Roast Chicken based on the strong recommendation of trusted, veteran Hound J.L., who raved about their Chicken prepared tableside. :)

Despite growing up in So Cal, I've never gotten around to visiting Melisse, but finally found an opportunity to do so. :) Note that Melisse's Rotisserie Chicken is only available as a supplement to one of their Tasting Menus.

Rotisserie Chicken, Stuffed with Summer Truffles - For Two (Prepared Tableside)
Price: $30 supplement (as part of their Tasting Menu (starting at $105))
Includes: Morel Mushrooms, Farmers Market Root Vegetables, Sauce Albufera, Fresh Chicken Soup.

Melisse's Rotisserie Chicken preparation is brought out in beautiful copper-lined pots, and carved and served tableside, with the server meticulously carving and plating the Chicken Breast first, along with the Farmers Market Vegetables and Morel Mushrooms.

During my 1st visit, I brought along a dear friend (who also happened to be one of the most jaded and critical Hounds I know :P). After the wonderful plating, with absolutely spot-on service, I took a bite of the Chicken Breast without any of the Sauce Albufera:

Stunning.

PERFECTLY cooked Chicken Breast! Imagine a sliver of soft, delicate, juicy meat that's *just* cooked-through. It was more tender than most Sous-vide preparations I've had! And this was the Chicken *Breast*, not the Leg or Thigh (with a higher fat content). To this day it's BEST Chicken Breast I've ever had, anywhere. Hands down. Wow. (^_^)

It was so good, my jaded Hound and I both let out a slight moan. :)

It didn't hurt that they stuffed Summer Truffles under the Skin to add to the completely enthralling experience. :)

And then, Melisse did something no other restaurant in our Battle bothered to do: They took back the rest of the Whole Chicken (the dark meat portion) to finish cooking, since we all know that dark meat and white meat finish cooking at different times. Looking back in hindsight, it makes perfect sense why so many places have their Chicken Breast overcooked (to make sure the entire Chicken is cooked all the way through).

The Sauce Albufera is a combination of fresh Chicken Stock mixed with Truffles and reduced down into a completely decadent, outrageously delicious Sauce to dip your Chicken in (and to sop up with some good homemade Bread :).

The Morel Mushrooms are completely addictive, and the Farmers Market Root Vegetables are delightful, perfectly cooked, tender, yet still having some structure to them.

A few minutes later, the Chicken Leg appears, having been allowed to roast a bit longer to finish cooking. The Leg is just beautiful, not too fatty, with a clean, focused flavor in each bite.

And it's finished off with the remaining dark meat being incorporated into a Fresh Chicken Soup with Summer Truffles.

There's a deep, concentrated Chicken essence coming through with each sip. It's soul warming and perfect for the chilly evening. Excellent. :)

I was so blown away by this Roast Chicken that I had to make sure it wasn't a fluke. On my 2nd visit to Melisse, I rounded up Mr. Man Bites World, and off we went to try this amazing Tableside Chicken again.

Unfortunately, the 2nd time, the Chicken Breast was overcooked. :( It wasn't to the point of "horrible," but the Breast was cooked to the point that it was just like 99% of the other places we went to: Slightly dryish, mostly moist, but nothing like the perfect, just-cooked-through silky subtle masterpiece I had during my first visit. :(

Like a chain reaction, the dark meat also tasted a touch overcooked, slightly dry, but still quite good. It helped that the rest of the dish was just as outstanding as before (especially their decadent Sauce Albufera).

And this is one of the biggest regrets I have with this Battle: That I wasn't able to visit Melisse 4 - 5 times to ascertain if they generally cook this amazing Chicken just right (like my 1st visit), or if it's usually slightly overcooked (like my 2nd visit). I am unable to justify spending ~$800 - $1,200 to finish this Battle properly, and I ask my Hounds for forgiveness. I hope that with follow-up posts from Hounds that have tried this Chicken, that we can figure out how consistent Melisse is in this regard.

But as it stands, Melisse's Rotisserie Chicken during the 1st visit was the most amazing Chicken dish I had during this battle, and the best Roast Chicken I've ever had. Both visits' Chicken also exhibited a real, deep, Poultry funk. The Chicken *tasted* like the way Chicken should taste; not the generally mild, tasteless birds we find in most supermarkets these days, sadly. As it stands, even with the consistency issue, Melisse's Tableside Rotisserie Chicken for Two is simply amazing.

Rating: 8.9 (out of 10)

Melisse
1104 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: (310) 395-0881

Hours: Tues - Thurs, 6:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Fri, 6:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sat, 5:45 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays and Mondays.

http://melisse.com/

* 1st Place *
Rustic Canyon

Rustic Canyon has quickly surpassed any expectations I had for this lively little eatery along a quiet portion of Wilshire in Santa Monica. I had first tried out their Roast Chicken randomly, during a visit a few months earlier, and was positively elated!

Half Jidori Chicken
Price: $28
Includes: Variety of Farmers Market Fresh Vegetables (depending on the Season)

When it first arrives, like at Melisse, one of the noteworthy aspects of the Chicken is that it looks like a normal-sized Chicken. It doesn't have an excessively large Chicken Breast (like what most Chickens sold in the U.S. are like), which is a relief. But then with the first push of the fork and knife, I hear a sound that brings an immediate smile to my face:

* Crunch *

:). I take a bite and the crackle of beautifully crisp Chicken Skin combines with an ultra-juicy, perfectly cooked Chicken Breast. The white meat is positively singing and bright and pure.

The Leg and Thigh are even more luscious and juicy, with a delicate Salt and Pepper simplicity shining through. By itself, it's amazing already, but with the variety of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables from local farmers really adds the proverbial "cherry on top," with one visit having the sexy sweetness of marinated Black Mission Figs with the gorgeous Roast Chicken, or on another visit, Wild Mushrooms in a Marsala Sauce.

In each of the visits to Rustic Canyon, their Roasted Jidori Chicken has been consistently perfectly cooked, juicy, tender, and with an irresistible crispy Skin, all under the watchful eye of Executive Chef Evan Funke. Outstanding.

Rating: 9.0 (out of 10)

Rustic Canyon
1119 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: (310) 393-7050

Hours: Sun - Thurs, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 11:30 p.m.

http://www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com/

Final Thoughts: Roast Chicken is probably one of the most misunderstood dishes out there. It's at once extremely simple and straightforward, but at the same time, it's one of the hardest dishes to make right (with just-cooked-through, succulent Breast meat, while also having the Leg and Thigh be properly cooked, and having a wonderful crisped Skin).

There is no "rare" or "medium-rare" Chicken. In this country, Chicken is served well-done, so there's a much smaller window for a kitchen to nail the proper timing on a Roast Chicken. Add to that fact that there are no fine gradations for Chicken like there is Beef (i.e., there is no "Grade A5 Chicken" or "USDA Prime / Choice / Select Chicken"), and it becomes harder and harder to attain a great quality Roast Chicken, from both a chef and customer's point-of-view.

Here are some individual Awards in the course of this too-long, horrific Roast Chicken Battle:

* Most Unforgettable Roast Chicken: Melisse's Rotisserie Chicken, Stuffed with Summer Truffles - For Two (Prepared Tableside)

* Favorite Chicken (1/2) Under $10: Pollo Ala Brasa (Western)

* Favorite Crispy Chicken Skin: Rustic Canyon & Marouch

* Favorite Everyday Roast Chicken: Rustic Canyon & Pollo Ala Brasa (Western)

Looking back on this absurd undertaking, it really underscores the point of just how subjective food is. For one dear friend, having sexy, crisped Chicken Skin is tantamount in a great Roast Chicken. For some of my Hounds, they abhor Chicken Skin and peel it off immediately, happy to enjoy the meat itself. Others insist on enjoying the Roast Chicken with whatever condiments are provided (e.g., Zankou's Garlic Spread, or the homemade Aji Sauce at Pollo Ala Brasa). For each of them, there are different things that make up their ideal "Roast Chicken," which just incites more discussions and heated debates, and that's what makes food so fun. (^_~)

I hope this serves as another warning for what not to do. Like a bad movie sequel, how could I attempt something even more ludicrous and insane than the first time, and not learn from my mistakes?! My "friends" have disappeared again. Calls are going straight to voicemail. The last thing I heard from one of my OC Hounds was a sobbing, "You made me gain 3 pounds hanging out with you!!!" Yet more relationships destroyed all because of food! Perhaps I can get this post listed as a synonym for "foolishness." Or maybe, "absurdity." Or better yet, "stupidity." :)

I think I have to call it quits after this. Too much damage has been done.

But wait! I know! Maybe we can do a Salad Battle! They'd be willing to talk to me, then, right? Right? (^_^)

Agony and Ecstasy - Life Beyond The Tender, Juicy, Heavenly Pastrami at Langer's Delicatessen

2010-10-29T16:09:00.000-07:00

At this point, there's not much more to be said about one of L.A.'s best institutions serving up some of the world's best Pastrami. Their Pastrami is so focused and delicious it's caused followers of New York's famous Katz's Deli to switch allegiances and moved famous writers to wax poetic about this succulent delight. :) But over the years, I started becoming cognizant of other words and letters filling up the menu at Langer's that didn't involve the word "Pastrami." :) Curious, I've been slowly exploring the rest of the menu to see if there is any life after Langer's famous Pastrami Sandwich.

The fact that Langer's has been around for over 63 years(!) (founded in 1947) is impressive enough, but add the fact that they're still packing in the crowds due to their Pastrami is even more awe-inspiring. Stepping inside really feels like entering a time warp to an era of days gone by, with some old (now charmingly quaint) decor and simple rows of booths running up and down the restaurant.

On one of my very first visits, we began with their #5 - Corned Beef and Swiss Cheese, Russian Style Dressing on Rye Bread.

The Corned Beef is delicate, tender and mild. Probably one of the best Corned Beef Sandwiches I've had in years. :) I wish the Swiss Cheese was melted, but it's a minor concern when the Beef is this tasty.

But the real highlight is their famous Hot Pastrami Sandwich. For my first time, I order it plain, and it's served in all its unadorned glory with Rye Bread.

I take a bite...

It's just SO good! (^_^)

If the Corned Beef is tender and juicy, their famous, much-lauded Hot Pastrami is even more moist and delicate and luscious. It's lightly salted and spiced; it's savory and satisfying on so many levels.

The only regret that entered my mind was how I had missed out on Langer's for so many years (despite growing up in So Cal, I never made it out to Langer's until a few years ago). :) This tender, Sugar-Cured Corned Beef that's then smoked for hours is perfectly complemented by the fantastic Rye Bread (made by Bea's Bakery, and finished in the ovens here at Langer's). It's a soft, pillowy Rye, fragrant and lightly tart, with a crunchy crust.

And contrasting their Plain Hot Pastrami, is their most popular item on the menu, #19 - Pastrami, Swiss Cheese and Cole Slaw, with Russian Style Dressing on Rye Bread.

You can tell a restaurant is excelling when it can spawn debates amongst the dedicated food lovers about which version of a dish (with the same base ingredients) is better. :) Their #19 is their lovely Hot Pastrami Sandwich, but with the addition of the Swiss Cheese and Russian Style Dressing and Coleslaw. It's got a sweet tang, the Pastrami is still so lush and satisfying, but for my tastes, it's a bit too complicated. I prefer the Plain Hot Pastrami, but I can see why some people love the #19 so much. :)

One of my guilty pleasures are Chili Fries, so I'm curious how Langer's version compares to the more (in)famous versions around town. :)

The French Fries at Langer's are that ubiquitous, crinkle cut Fry found at many places around town. It's crunchy, crisp and has a decent inside. The Chili itself is mild, slightly saltier than I'd prefer and ~OK at best.

With the lengthy discussion on Chowhound about finding good Corned Beef Hash, I had to give Langer's version a try as well.

Their Corned Beef Hash is well-crisped, nicely seasoned and tastes fresh. There's a real Beef taste, and the layering of the finely minced Corned Beef with Potato chunks interspersed makes this *almost* taste like the canned version of Corned Beef Hash that some Hounds are looking for, but the flavor is still a bit different. It's moist and fatty, and for a restaurant version, it's something I'd be happy to order again if I was in the mood. :)

On another visit, I had the pleasure of hanging out with my 'dachi Noah, from Man Bites World and some other fabulous guests. We began with a classic Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray Soda. :)

Light, refreshing and sweet, infused with Celery flavors, it's an excellent way to start the meal. :)

Continuing on, we try their Matzo Ball Soup.

Their Matzo Ball Soup tastes like a straightforward, basic Chicken Soup with a soft, tender style of Matzo Ball. It's fine, but it's nothing that would make me order it again.

And then the Hot Beef Tongue Sandwich arrives.

Lengua. Gyu Tan. Beef Tongue. I love a well-executed version of Beef Tongue whenever I can find it, and Langer's Beef Tongue Sandwich is surprisingly good! :) It's extremely soft and delicate, thinly sliced with a more round and distinctive bovine flavor than the Pastrami or Corned Beef. This is definitely a sandwich I wouldn't mind ordering again! :)

One of our guests is craving a Reuben-like Sandwich, so we order their #44 - Hot Pastrami, Sauerkraut and Nippy Cheese Grilled on Rye.

With a foundation as great as their fantastic Pastrami, it's hard to mess up anything that stems from that, and thankfully their #44 is just fine. :) The Sauerkraut imparts just the right amount of tartness, and the melted Nippy Cheese helps to tie it all together.

But probably the most shocking discovery of the day is their #27 - Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver Sandwich.

I am generally not a Liver fan, but I never thought I'd see the day when the words "stunning" and "Liver" were used by me in the same sentence. (^_~) The balance between the Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver is absurdly good! There's a real clean, focused flavor that shines through. I was bracing myself for the usual metallic, iron-y Liver taste, but instead the Chopped Egg's creaminess really provides the perfect foil for the Chopped Liver which exhibits none of the usual heavy, unpleasant flavors you usually associate with Liver. Definitely something worth trying outside of the Pastrami! :)

I'm pretty happy at this point, but then the Tuna Melt arrives.

As I'm about to take a bite, Noah's astute eye suddenly catches something, and he stops me. He gingerly picks up the Sandwich and then cracks it open. Like gazing upon The Ark in Raiders of the Lost Ark, we're awestruck by what my 'dachi has coined "the quadruple crispies." Langer's not only grills the outside of the Tuna Melt (as expected), but the also grill the *inside* of the Tuna Melt on both sides, so you get 4 layers of crispy crunch with each bite! Excellent! (^_^) Sure it's slightly greasy, but it's *so* good! :)

On a later visit, I begin with their Chicken Noodle Soup.

It has that classic Diner taste; a Chicken Soup made with Bouillon Cubes. There's no actual Chicken Meat in the Soup, and the Thin Noodles have turned to mush.

Their Chicken Rice Soup fairs about the same.

It has the same Bouillon Cube taste, with soft Rice floating around in the Soup. It's a touch more enjoyable than the Chicken Noodle, since the Rice grains still have some body left.

Their Knish continues the heartbreaking trend.

It's a thicker version, with a filling of solid Mashed Potatoes. Unfortunately the outer dough exterior is dryish and the filling is so dense that it makes for a hard time eating this, even when split amongst 4 people.

One of the most humorous things to come out of these visits is the attempt to order their Fish & Chips. Fish & Chips are a popular item amongst many people, and I'm always looking for a great version around town. But each time I've tried ordering the Fish & Chips at Langer's, I've gotten sage advice from the veteran servers. The first time, our seasoned waitress gave me the raised eyebrow "Trust me, you don't want to order this" look. :) The second time I tried ordering it with a different server, he politely and quietly warned me to order something else. (^_^)

Their 1/2 Roast Stuffed Chicken arrives next.

Surprisingly, the Chicken is stuffed underneath the skin (between the skin and the meat), instead of the usual center cavity stuffing. Sadly, the Chicken Skin is soggy, smothered in Gravy. The Bread Stuffing is fluffy and comforting, reminding one of Autumn, but the actual Chicken meat is less successful. The white meat is slightly dry (but parts are still moist), but tasting a bit old, like it was reheated. The dark meat fares a bit better but still tastes a bit dull.

Their Home Fries have a great crispiness while still being moist on the inside, with a great crunch to each bite.

Their Fried Chicken is next to arrive.

There's a super crackly crunchy exterior that's well-seasoned with Salt and Pepper and satisfying. :) But sadly, there's still a noticeable amount of subcutaneous Fat throughout each piece of Fried Chicken, as if the frying didn't melt enough of the Fat away, resulting in a slightly off-putting mouthfeel with each bite. Between the two cross-town institutions, I'd have to give the edge to Pann's for their Fried Chicken over Langer's.

Their Hot Brisket of Beef Sandwich is another item I've been curious about for a while.

It has a very light, clean beefy taste, less pronounced than their Corned Beef or Pastrami. Texturally, it's not as pleasing or amazing as the super-tender Pastrami, but it's also less salty and tastes healthier all around.

Their Smoked Whitefish is another interesting dish I've been eyeing for a while.

Their Whitefish (like their Lox) is outsourced, and there's an intense smokiness that's quite distinctive, and it's lightly briny with a delicate flakiness. But, the amount of sodium used just overpowers everything. Eating it with the Toasted Bagel, some Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Lettuce provided helps to alleviate some of the Salt-overload, but it's still a bit too salty.

We finish up with their Patty Melt on Rye Bread.

I order it medium, but sadly the Patty Melt arrives well-done. It's extremely juicy and fatty, and the melted, gooey Cheese and crunchy Rye with Grilled Onions helps to create a satisfying version of this dish. But after Servorg's excellent recommendation for Pann's Patty Melt, Langer's version falls a bit short. :)

Service is brisk and slow at times. Some servers seem to take their time, but others are on the spot, ready to help alleviate your needs. The fact that they're always at near-100% capacity doesn't help, but it's fine for what it is. :) Prices range from $3.95 - $23.95 for their Sandwiches, with most in the ~$12 - $14 range.

Langer's Delicatessen continues to bring in the crowds, even after 60+ years for a reason: Their Hot Pastrami is noteworthy and standout, being so mouth-wateringly good. :) In exploring the rest of their menu, and finding so many heartbreaking items (made even worse because each "miss" means I missed out on having their wonderful Pastrami again (^_~)), there are quite a few noteworthy things outside of their Pastrami. Their Corned Beef is very good; their Beef Tongue is quite tasty, and their Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver Sandwich and Tuna Melt are very pleasant surprises! Breakfast is enjoyable with their Corned Beef Hash and Home Fries as well. :) But at the end of the day, it's still all about their amazing Hot Pastrami Sandwich: Succulent, soul-satisfying and delicious in every way. :)

Rating: 8.2 (out of 10.0)

Langer's Delicatessen
704 S. Alvarado Street
Los Angeles, CA 90057
Tel: (213) 483-8050

Hours: Mon - Sat, 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays.

http://www.langersdeli.com/

Sizzling, Succulent Grilled Pork (or, Enter Park's BBQ's Sister Restaurant) - Don Dae Gam

2010-10-06T09:00:00.000-07:00

The sizzle of searing meat. The fragrant waft of deliciousness as slabs of various cuts of Beef and Pork start to cook through. Enter any Korean (or Japanese) BBQ restaurant and you'll most likely be treated to a full-frontal wave of mouth-watering aroma as various cuts of meat are quickly cooking at each table's grill. And while Beef tends to be the most popular and prominently found star at most of these establishments, places like Don Dae Gam are seeking to celebrate The Other White Meat: Pork, in all its fatty, succulent glory. (^_^)

You can tell what Don Dae Gam specializes in, the moment you pull into the parking lot: You're greeted by a sign with a cute Pig mascot. I first heard about Don Dae Gam thanks to the intrepid research from some dedicated Hounds (including ipse :), but it was the fact that it was related to arguably the best Korean BBQ house in town - Park's BBQ - that really piqued my interest. Indeed, Don Dae Gam and Park's BBQ share the same owner, and the manager confirmed that they share the same meat supplier as well.

Stepping inside, and you can see a spaciously laid-out, airy environment. The owner completely renovated the space formerly occupied by a good Jajangmyeon specialist. And like Park's BBQ, Don Dae Gam prominently features its best items on page 1, with a similar layout, but more playful font, featuring 10 Pork specialty dishes and 6 Beef dishes. Be sure to consider one of their "Combo" deals, which is essentially the same price as ordering 2, 3, etc. of the same dishes individually, except that they throw in a free item from their Specialty Side Dishes menu, and a bottle of Soju.

If you're new to Korean BBQ, every table features their own personal grill, and you order a variety of meats to grill at the table yourself (although at nicer establishments, the servers will usually grill it for you as you watch).

A great perk is the inclusion of free Panchan (Small Side Dishes) that rotate daily, which can range from Stewed Potatoes, Fish Cakes, Marinated Seaweed, to the classic Kimchi.

During my 1st visit, my guest and I decide to start with their most popular and (according to our server) best dish on the menu: #1. Special Pork Neck Meat (pictured here with their Black Pork Belly).

There's some good marbling in the Pork Neck Meat, but the majority is still meat (compared to the Pork Belly, which has far more fat). The smell of the Pork Neck Meat as it sizzles is incredibly hunger-inducing. (^_~) And I take a bite...

There's this juicy, slightly fatty, insane unctuousness. :)

It's outstanding, and tastes great lightly dabbed in the Sesame Oil and Salt Dipping Sauce (along with some of their fresh Lettuce mix). Thankfully it's been consistently good, each time I've ordered it.

As we're finishing up the first item, our Mung Bean Pancake arrives.

Ostensibly, it looks just like its more popular cousin, Pajeon (a Flour-based Batter Korean Pancake), but this one is made with Mung Beans. There's a beautiful crisped edge (the bites closer to the crispy side are absolutely delicious), but it's a tad too thick, which means a slightly undercooked, liquidy, doughy center.

Their #5. Black Pork Belly cooks up next, after the grill frees up.

While they get their meat from the same supplier, I prefer Don Dae Gam's Black Pork Belly, over Park's current "Pork Belly" (what used to be their "Tokyo X Style Pork Belly"). It seems richer and brighter here. Either way, this Black Pork Belly is definitely the fattiest, most filling cut of Pork on the menu. It's good, but make sure you bring enough people to take down this giant slab of meat. :)

During a more recent visit, we're treated with more interesting Panchan dishes than my previous visits combined.

We start with their #2. Seasoned Pork Short Rib (shown with their Seasoned Black Pork Belly).

The Seasoned Pork Short Ribs, presented in a similar style to the classic Beef Short Ribs, are the leanest item on the menu, well marinated with a slightly sweet, Soy-infusion, and quite clean-tasting. It's not my favorite item on the menu, but it's fine for those looking for something less fatty. :)

Their #6. Seasoned Black Pork Belly, is similar to their #5. Black Pork Belly, except it's been marinated in their same house creation. This results in an excessive fatty, delicious and sweet-savory combination punch to the mouth. It's quite good, but I prefer most of my Korean BBQ meats without marinade, so I enjoy their regular Black Pork Belly more.

In the midst of all this meat madness comes the most pleasant surprise of the menu, and it's not even from their BBQ menu: Spicy Pork Ddeokboki (with Rice Cake and Kimchi), a giant pot of spicy deliciousness. :)

While the intense, retina-searing red color may send off massive warning signs, fear not, this is nowhere close to any of the massive burn found at Jitlada, as an example. :) A sip of this crimson concoction reveals a perfect balance of sweet and spicy, a touch of tang, and a completely addictive quality. Every guest at the table gets seconds and it's the first dish we finish that night. :)

We finish up with my two favorite items on the menu, starting with their #1. Ggot Sal (off the Beef Menu).

Similar to its sister restaurant's "Kobe Style Beef", there's an impressive amount of marbling in this American Kobe cut. The result is a good, satisfying meaty chew with good tenderness, and a genuine beefiness exuding from every bite. Delicious. (^_^)

And we finish up with the utterly satisfying specialty of the house, #1. Special Pork Neck Meat, again. :)

It's just as succulent and brilliant as before. This turns out to be everyone's favorite meat dish of the night, and with good reason, too. :)

Service is as expected in a Korean BBQ restaurant. Like Park's, Don Dae Gam's staff will rotate in and try to help watch over your grill, and cook the meat for you, but sometimes it gets too busy, so be ready to man the grill yourself to prevent anything from overcooking. Prices range from $18 - $30 per meat dish (a very healthy portion :), and their Specials Menu ranges from $3 - $25.

It's always nice finding a specialist that does something well, and for a Pork-centric Korean BBQ experience, Don Dae Gam carries on the focus in quality from its sister, Park's BBQ. While I prefer the Beef offerings at Park's more (it focuses on Beef, after all), when I'm in the mood for Pork, Don Dae Gam is a worthwhile consideration. It's less crowded than Park's BBQ, and features similar prices, while offering some great cuts like their Special Pork Neck Meat and Ggot Sal (with American Kobe Beef). Throw in their spicy, soul-warming stew, Spicy Pork Ddeokboki, and you've got a perfect way to warm up the evenings. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)

Don Dae Gam Pork BBQ
1145 S. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Tel: (323) 373-0700

Hours: Open 7 Days A Week, 5:00 p.m. - 2:00 a.m.(!)

Neighborhood Italian - Celestino

2010-09-24T13:44:00.000-07:00

In a time when so many neighborhoods are dominated by mainstream national chain restaurants, it makes you appreciate the smaller, neighborhood eateries, especially when you're in an area without many destination-worthy places. While I usually wrangle my Pasadena Hounds to come out and try the Italian eateries in Mid-town and West L.A., when the situation is reversed, I've found myself returning to Celestino more often than not. Celestino is named after the most famous Drago brother, Chef Celestino Drago of Drago and Drago Centro fame. It used to be part of the Drago empire, but these days, it's being run by his brother, Chef-Owner Calogero Drago.

Stepping into Celestino feels like you've walked into a classic Italian restaurant from the 1980's or '90's. Low, incandescent lighting imparts a warm, yellow hue around the dining room that makes the dining experience more casual and relaxed, than the sharper, more modern, hot establishments around town. There's nothing wrong with it, but the ambiance definitely feels more like a well-worn, familiar pair of shoes or a jacket, than anything.

Like its decor, Celestino's menu seems locked in time, featuring some classics that never change (with a few daily specials to mix things up). The menu is exactly the same from the first time one of my friends took me to Celestino 2 years ago, to my most recent visit last month.

During one of my earlier visits, my guest and I begin with their Asparagus and Arugula Salad.

The Asparagus is cooked just right, and when combined with the Corn, Tomatoes and fragrant Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, they help to balance out the slightly bitter, peppery aspects of the Arugula. The house-made Lemon Herb Vinaigrette is quite nice, but it's a tad overdressed.

Our entrees arrive next, starting with the Costolette d'Agnello con Aceto Balsamico e Menta (Rack of Lamb with Balsamic and Mint).

I order it medium-rare, and it arrives as specified. The Lamb is juicy, very tender and enjoyable. There's a delicious savory crust around the outer edges, and the Balsamic Sauce is only slightly tart without overpowering the Lamb.

The next entree arrives at this point, a signature item from Chef Celestino Drago's repertoire and kept on the menu due to its popularity, no doubt: Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle (Wide Fettucine with Pheasant and Morels Mushrooms).

The house-made Papardelle pasta is cooked al dente, with a good bite while still being pliable. The amount of Pheasant is a bit too precious, but it works well with the Morel Mushrooms, which have a gorgeous, idiosyncratic aroma and texture. :) Overall, in comparing the version here to the original Drago in Santa Monica and Drago Centro's version, I'd have to say this one is the weakest: A bit too heavy-handed on the Sauce and a bit too sparse on the Pheasant, but it's still a solid version of the Drago classic.

We finish with a house-made Panna Cotta with Strawberries.

The custard-y consistency of this Panna Cotta works fine with the fresh Strawberries, and it's thankfully not too sweet, making for a good way to finish up the meal. :)

On another visit, my guests and I begin with the straightforward-sounding Calamari Fritti (Fried Calamari).

I'm hesitant about ordering this at first, but our server assures us it's their most popular appetizer for a reason. Taking a bite, the light breading gives way to tender, perfectly cooked Calamari pieces, lightly briny and just satisfying on so many levels. :) It truly celebrates the Calamari and should be enjoyed with just a squeeze of Lemon (the accompanying Tomato Sauce is too piquant and overpowers the dish).

Their Zuppa del Giorno is a Mushroom Puree Soup.

It's a slightly-thick, puree of Shiitake, Porcini and Button Mushrooms (with no dairy) and the result is a rustic, fragrant, full-bodied Soup that I can't stop drinking. :)

Their Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare (Spaghetti with Mixed Seafood in a light Tomato Sauce) arrives next.

There's a good, clean, oceanic flavor coming through from the first bite. The pasta is cooked al dente, and the Clams are lightly briny, as are the Mussels. The Shrimp are *not* overcooked in the slightest, showing some good competency from the kitchen in handling different types of seafood at the same time. Overall, my guests loved it and if there was any issue, it'd be that it was just a bit oversauced.

Continuing on, our selection of two Primi Pastas arrives at this point: Shrimp and Porcini Risotto, and their Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle.

Using an Arborio Rice from Piedmont, Italy, the kitchen turns out an excellent product: The Risotto is lightly creamy, delicate with a good, toothsome quality, and the Shrimp are perfectly cooked. Excellent. :)

Their classic Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle is about the same as last time, except the Pheasant meat this time is far too overcooked, turning into tough, old-tasting morsels.

Dessert arrives in the form of their house-made Tiramisu.

While it's pillowy and quite airy, it's also far too liquid-y and wet for my tastes. It's sitting in a pool of nearly-tasteless liquid and it's a bit off-putting. There's a good dusting of Cocoa Powder and it's not too sweet (a good thing), but overall, there are better versions around town.

On my most recent visit, my guests and I start with their Insalata Primavera e Formaggio di Capra (Baby Mixed Lettuce with Roasted Peppers, Eggplant and Goat Cheese).

The Eggplant is excellent, lightly roasted, allowing it to maintain a good meatiness without turning it into mush (as many Eggplant dishes have a tendency to become). The Goat Cheese is surprisingly mild and complements the salad on many levels, but it's a touch overdressed.

Those looking for a bolder, more savory Pasta might consider the Pennette con Prosciutto e Vodka (Penne Pasta with Prosciutto and Vodka Sauce).

There's a genuine, deep savoriness that pervades each bite that's satisfying on many levels, but at the same time, the heavy Vodka Cream Sauce feels like a dish more befitting a "Red Sauce Italian-American restaurant" than a former satellite of the Drago empire.

The Lasagna alla Bolognese (Lasagna with Meat Ragu) is another dish that seems out-of-place in a (former) Drago restaurant, but at the same time, it seems to fit at Celestino.

The Lasagna is sadly overcooked, turning into a pile of mush. It's also extremely salty, but there's a very clean Bolognese Sauce (more Italian-American style than anything), but it can't save the rest of the dish.

Finally, the Primi combination of Tagliolini Bianchi e Neri con Salsa di Cappesante e Timo (Black and White Tagliolini with Scallops in a Thyme Cream Sauce) and Ravioli di Spinaci e Ricotta Pomodoro e Basilico (Ravioli stuffed with Spinach & Ricotta, in a Tomato and Basil Sauce) arrives soon after.

The Tagliolini pasta is striking in its color and cooked perfectly. There's a good, light creaminess coming through that makes you wonder if its not two different chefs in the kitchen (one making the more delicate pastas and one making the brash Italian-American style dishes).

The Scallops, however, are sadly overcooked, extremely rubbery and dry. :(

Their Ravioli with Spinach and Ricotta comes across as a very straightforward, typical version of the dish, and is too heavily sauced.

Service has been a bit mixed during my visits over the years. On some visits, we get a very friendly server that's almost a caricature of the overly emphatic Italian waiters you might see in movies. On other visits, it's been quite low-key and professional. And on one occasion, we get paired with a waiter that seems like they just arrived from Italy with very little command of the English language (he had a hard time understanding basic requests in English throughout the meal). Prices range from $5 - $28 for most dishes, with most Pasta dishes falling in the ~$14 range.

Celestino has the feel of a low-key, comfortable, neighborhood Italian eatery; one that serves many Italian-American classics and some more enjoyable authentic Italian dishes as well. You see flashes of brilliance from the perfectly cooked Rack of Lamb, to the delicate Mushroom Puree Soup, to the Shrimp and Porcini Risotto. But there are so many heavy-handed dishes that are oversauced or overcooked that it makes you wonder if the menu might be catered to a less discerning crowd than the ones visiting Chef Calogero's brother's flagships like Drago Centro.

Rating: 6.0 (out of 10)

Celestino
141 S. Lake Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91101
Tel: (626) 795-4006

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sun, 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

http://www.calogerodrago.com/

Relaxed, Pleasant, Seasonal Cooking (or, Celebrating California's Vibrant Produce) - FIG Restaurant

2010-09-15T17:40:00.000-07:00

"Market-driven menu." "Local ingredients."

These catchphrases have been appearing so often in recent years whenever a new restaurant debuts - especially in California where we have an abundance of great, fresh produce - that we've become jaded to these descriptions. Unfortunately, all too often, we run across menus that are supposedly using farmer's market fresh ingredients, but upon tasting the vegetables and fruit, they turn out to be soulless and muted. At FIG Restaurant, Chef Ray Garcia has constructed a menu that truly celebrates the local produce that California has to offer, putting the local farmer's market ingredients front-and-center and letting the inherent flavors speak for themselves. This is *not* a vegetarian restaurant - there are plenty of delicious meat dishes on the menu - but it's a restaurant that isn't ashamed to feature the latest fruit and vegetables that are in-season, in all their vibrant glory. :)

Located in the Fairmont Miramar Hotel, FIG's relaxed, casual ambiance is set the moment you step into the beautiful hotel lobby. FIG's decor is pretty minimalistic (except for the one wall adorned with odd, spherical mirrors :), featuring clean white walls and very low, mood-lighting at night. One of the things that struck me on my very first visit was just how *pleasant* the restaurant felt. FIG was at 100% capacity, and yet my guest and I could hold a conversation without shouting (a far cry from the loud cacophony in places like Comme Ca and Osteria Mozza) (and it's been the same, quiet murmuring on each of my 3 visits).

One of the coolest things on the menu is a section at the bottom listing the key produce Chef Garcia is featuring, with headings of "Just Arrived" "In Peak Season" and "Coming Soon." It gives the diner an understanding of what's in season at this point, and what to look forward to in the coming weeks.

During my 1st visit, I start off with their delicious-sounding Blueberry & Thyme Cocktail (Hand-Pressed Blueberries, Organic Lemon Thyme, Reyka Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Yellow Chartreuse).

The Blueberries taste wonderful, but unfortunately the bartender uses way too much Vodka and Yellow Chartreuse, overpowering everything else; well short of the amazing cocktails at The Varnish or Rivera.

Bread service begins as soon as we're seated, with each guest being treated to these cute mini-loafs of Bread and Homemade Balsamic Butter.

Chef Garcia's Homemade Butter concoctions are definitely a simple highlight for each of my visits to FIG, changing each time I've gone. The Balsamic Butter is simply delicious: Creamy, delicate with just a touch of the acidic tartness from the Balsamic Vinegar which helps to focus the palate as you take each bite.

Their amuse bouche is an example of their focus on produce, with Fresh Plums, Mint, Creme Fraiche.

The slices of Plum taste fine but don't really work that well with the Creme Fraiche. It's nothing amazing, but it's a decent start.

Our first starter arrives a few minutes later, which is an instant order based on the name alone: Bacon Wrapped Bacon (Early Girl Tomatoes, Arugula, Cocktail Avocado). (^_^)

"Bacon Wrapped Bacon" invokes wonderful possibilities as your imagination runs wild. In the end, it turns out to be thick slabs of Pork Belly wrapped in Applewood Bacon. It's smoky, salty and moderately satisfying, but it just feels like it could've been so much more. The Heirloom Tomatoes, Avocado and crisp Arugula really help to soften the sodium levels and add a good foil to each bite.

From their Charcuterie menu, we try the Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (Fig Marmalade, Grilled Baguette).

This turns out to be a delightful dish made of Foie Gras mixed with Clarified Butter and Chicken Livers, blended to a smooth, creamy, spreadable consistency. The Fig Marmalade is a touch too sweet by itself, but when mixed with the Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait on their Grilled Baguette, it turns out to be wonderful decadence. :)

Up next is their Young Beets with Pistachios.

The combination of fresh Yellow and Red Beets, toasted Pistachios and a mix of Field Greens sounds pretty basic (and it is), but that's how confident Chef Garcia is in the ingredients. The young Yellow and Red Beets taste vibrant and soulful and earthy. The touch of aromatic nuttiness from the toasted Pistachios really provide a great counterpoint to the flavors of the Beets.

My favorite dish during my first visit is the Squid Basquaise (Forbidden Rice, Nduja, Prosciutto).

A great Squid dish can be hard to come by at times, but Chef Garcia's cooking prowess really shines here: Perfectly cooked Squid comes stuffed with spicy-hot Calabrian Nduja Sausage. That combination alone, with the savoriness from the Nduja and the light chew and slight oceanic tinge from the Squid, is quite nice, but it's the use of Espelette Peppers and the accompanying fiery sauce that really elevates this dish. It gives you a two-part fire punch (in a good way :), and the Prosciutto is icing on the cake. :)

I love a great Coq au Vin, so I had to give Chef Garcia's version a try: Coq au Vin (Crimini Mushrooms, Lardon, Pee Wee Potatoes).

The Chicken is tender and juicy, well-saturated with the flavors of the Pearl Onions, Lardons, Red Wine and Pee Wee Potatoes. While there's some complexity and layering of flavors, it falls short of the stunning depth and excellence of Chef Marneau's version at Marche Moderne. It's not bad at all, and something I'd order again if I was in the mood and dining at FIG. :)

For dessert, their Chocolate Pot au Creme arrives first.

It's a thick, custardy sweet made of 3 different Chocolates, and it definitely indulges the sweet tooth. :) I'm not that much of a Chocolate fan, but I found it pleasing enough without being cloying, and my guest loved it. :)

We also order their namesake FIG Bars dessert, served with Greek Yogurt Ice Cream.

I'm not sure what to expect, but at the end of the day these FIG Bars taste like a cleaner, slightly more refined version of Fig Newtons. :) It's slightly sweet with a clean biscuit-bread exterior, but it really reminds me of the Fig Newtons I had growing up. The combination with the smeared Chocolate Sauce clashes, however, and we ended up enjoying the rest of the FIG Bars without it.

And while the romantic, low-lit dinner was a nice first impression, one of the things that FIG does surprisingly well is their Sunday Brunch. Walking into FIG on a bright, sunny weekend morning, invigorated by the breeze from the Pacific Ocean (just across the street), you'd think you were in a completely different restaurant.

Grab a table by the window, overlooking the hotel pool (and a bit of the Pacific Ocean), or a table on the patio when it's not too chilly (which is almost never in So Cal :), and sit back and relax. :)

I begin with a cup of their English Breakfast Tea.

It's a private blend, made exclusively for FIG, but it's a bit too mild for my tastes. It's fragrant and light, and a gentle wake-up call, but I prefer my English Breakfast with a bit more punch. :)

Being a Croissant nut, I'm eager to try their version of the plain Croissant.

It is unfortunately slightly stale, but exudes a decent buttery flavor; a far cry from Anisette, Bite Bar and Amandine's versions.

But thankfully things are quickly made right with their Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes (with Almond Blueberry Butter).

I've had so many mediocre Pancakes recently that I'd nearly forgotten what a great Pancake could taste like. Chef Garcia's version is slightly crisped on the outside (lovely :), with a fluffy, moist cake-like interior. The subtle textural contrast is already enjoyable, but then you add in the Homemade Almond Blueberry Butter and it's just amazing. (^_^)

Next up is their Eggs Benedict (Poached Eggs, Canadian Bacon, Hollandaise).

The Eggs are poached just right, and the Hollandaise Sauce is a lighter, more delicate take on the traditional version, but the English Muffin is slightly stale and lacks that great toasted crunch you hope to get.

The side of Breakfast Potatoes are crisped, lightly salted and moist, and quite tasty.

During my 2nd visit, there was an excellent thread by my fellow Hounds on Corned Beef Hash, so when I saw this on the menu, I had to order it. :) Chef Ray Garcia's version of Corned Beef Hash is served with Poached Eggs, Hollandaise and Potato Strings.

Visually, it looks nothing like the usual Corned Beef Hash that my Hounds are searching for, but I gently take a bite, and a deep, balanced, slightly salty, savory wave hits my mouth. Looking past the creamy, delicate Hollandaise Sauce, the Corned Beef Hash is quite smooth (finely chopped) with a touch of chunkiness, and it's the closest I've found texturally to many of the Hounds' beloved Canned Corned Beef Hash. :)

Their Grilled Asparagus are a nice touch as well, with the Asparagus' inherent flavors intensified by the grilling.

Their Brick-Grilled Chicken (Rocket and Cherry Tomato Panzanella) is less successful.

The Crisped Chicken Skin is definitely the highlight of this dish, along with the Chicken Breast. The white meat portion is moist and well-permeated with a flavorful salt and herbaceous taste running all the way to the bone. But it's their dark meat Leg and Thigh portion that is surprisingly the disappointment in this dish: The Chicken Thigh and Leg are overcooked and dry. :( It's still quite flavorful, but really overcooked.

But with the disappointment comes an equally positive surprise: The accompanying Rocket and Cherry Tomato Panzanella is absolutely delicious! (^_^) FIG's claims of really utilizing farmer's market fresh ingredients sings loud and clear here: The Cherry Tomatoes are truly bursting with sweet, sunny flavor (like the best farmer's market Tomatoes when they're in season), and the Rocket (Arugula) is peppery, slightly bitter and verdant. The use of Caperberries provides a more restrained piquant flavor than the more commonly used Capers. Finally, the chunks of thick-cubed, crusty Bread has absorbed the fragrant Olive Oil and all the flavors from the vegetables, and results in the best-tasting Panzanella I've had in years. :)

On my 3rd visit, I have guests who've just flown into town and are looking for a relaxed, casual meal.

Bread service begins with a Homemade Arugula Butter, which sports a lovely leafy green hue and has a slight vegetal undertone.

We start off with their Kurobuta and Cavolo Nero Meatballs.

The Berkshire Pork Meatballs feature a delicious porcine flavor that runs through each bite, but it's on the extremely dense side. One would hope that the Cavolo Nero would help to lighten up each Meatball, but that doesn't seem to be the case. The Spicy Tomato Sauce is bright and Summer-like, and overall it's a decent starter.

The Chicken and Prosciutto Croquettes arrive next.

While ostensibly oil-saturated, these Croquettes turn out to be surprisingly creamy and another solid starter, with the Prosciutto providing the perfect amount of saltiness to the dish.

But with the latest batch of seasonal starters, my favorite might be the Three Bean Fritto Misto.

Chef Garcia takes the evocatively named Dragon Tongue Beans, Blue Lake Beans and Yellow Wax Beans, lightly batters and deep fries them before serving the seasonal Beans with a Garlic Aioli. They taste a touch oily, but beyond that there are some great flavors at work here: There's a real vibrancy, with a touch of (good) bitterness, crispness and focus from the three types of Beans on display.

One dish that took all of us by surprise and left me in a state of shock and joy is the generically named Market Salad.

Just like the claims for "market driven menu" or "local ingredients," seeing a "Market Salad" on a menu around town has fallen far short of expectations far too often. FIG's version of the Market Salad is a revelation of what a genuine farmer's market-based Market Salad should taste like. The Mixed Field Greens taste bright and Spring-like. There's a real vegetal essence coming through each bite. The Peaches, Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes, Jicama, Dried Strawberries are bursting with an earnest, pure flavor. It reminds me of a homemade Salad using great ingredients I just bought at the Hollywood or Santa Monica Farmer's Market. This is probably the best "Market Salad" I've had in the past year or so. Lovely. (^_^)

(Note: Our server mentions that the Market Salad's ingredients change daily, depending on what they have in season.)

Our first entree arrives at this point: Seafood Pot (Hand Harvested Scallops, Pacific Mussels, Prawns, Clams, Jalapeno-Tequila Broth).

Chef Garcia's interpretation of the traditional Moules Frites is light and fragrant: The Pacific Mussels, Clams and Scallops are just cooked through, still tender and spot-on. The Jalapeno-Tequila Broth is a much lighter Broth than the heavier versions usually found accompanying a dish of this sort. It's lightly salted, showing a great restraint, and the playful heat from the Jalapenos and uniqueness of the Tequila infusion really complement the seafood. And finally, the use of Black Radish and Cilantro add a nice finishing touch.

The heaviest item on the menu might very well be their Short Rib and Pancetta Meatloaf (Mashed Potatoes, Carrots, Broccoli di Cecco).

I love a great Short Rib dish, and what's not to love about Pancetta? :) Strangely, however, the flavors don't quite meld into that super-powered dish one might expect. This Meatloaf is dense and intense, and there's a mineral-y, Offal undertone with each bite.

The Mashed Potatoes are silky and creamy, and the Yellow and Purple Carrots are a delight, with a real, natural sweetness and of-the-earth quality. The Broccoli di Cecco is perfectly cooked, tender, yet still having a good bite.

One of my guests wants a smaller portion of the Meatloaf and orders the Open-Faced Meatloaf Sandwich (Mashed Potato Aioli, Roasted Tomato, Bermuda Onion Rings).

This is a smaller, more manageable portion of their Short Rib and Pancetta Meatloaf, served atop a thick slice of a sweet White Bread.

Probably the most disappointing item I've tried on the menu is their B.L.T. (Thick Cut Bacon, Avocado Spread, Heirloom Tomato, Green Leaf Lettuce).

To be fair, this has more to do with my expectations than anything. When I think of "B.L.T.," I imagine delicious, freshly-cooked, *crisped* Bacon, along with great Tomatoes and crisp Iceberg Lettuce on Toasted Bread. FIG's version is a hefty, thick slice of Bacon that's grilled, and more like a slab of Grilled Ham. I feel letdown, but those that want a soft, thick, juicy cut of Pork may enjoy this more. I'd rather have multiple, thinner slices of crispy Bacon in my B.L.T.

The Herb Fries are excellent; cooked at the right temperature (not permeated with oil) and only lightly salted.

We finish with another pleasant surprise: Their BBQ Chicken Sandwich (Pulled Chicken, Coleslaw, Smoked Cheddar).

Just like their generically named "Market Salad," the BBQ Chicken Sandwich really blindsided us. Using fresh, hand-pulled-apart chunks of Chicken mixed with Chef Garcia's version of BBQ Sauce, the end result is a sweet, tangy, lightly spicy Sandwich that's just delicious. The Chicken tastes bright and made the same day (versus the more commonly-found, dried out hockey pucks in many Chicken Breast Sandwiches around town).

While there's no real depth of smokiness from a real Barbecued Chicken (e.g., Bludso's BBQ Chicken), the type of Smoked Cheddar Chef Garcia uses, combined with the house-made Coleslaw and the tangy BBQ Sauce create a really satisfying combination. Excellent! :)

We also order a side of Broccoli di Cecco with Fresno Chile and Lemonquat, which turns out to be perfectly cooked through, lightly spicy from the Fresno Chilies and with just enough tartness from the Lemonquat to make things interesting. Some of my guests are hoping for a bit more heat, but I find it to be just fine for this early meal.

Service has been excellent for all 3 of my visits. The 3 different servers we've encountered have been casual while still maintaining decorum, and the supporting busboys have made sure any other needs were taken care of (always refilling the drinks in a timely fashion, etc.). Prices range from $3 - $25 for Brunch, $9 - $24 for Lunch, and $7 -$39 for Dinner. I've averaged about ~$40 per person including tax and tip for each of my visits.

FIG Restaurant is remarkable for its real celebration of farmer's market fresh produce, with an ever-changing menu featuring the brightest Fruits and Vegetables that are in-season at that moment. And while it never reaches the heights of greatness that places like Animal attain, there are enough standouts like the Squid Basquaise with Forbidden Rice, Nduja and Prosciutto, or the delightful Brunch ambiance and the Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes, or the verdant Market Salad to make this a great local favorite. There's something appealing about finding a place that truly features seasonal, local ingredients that are vibrant, in a relaxed, comfortable setting right next to the Pacific Ocean. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10)

(Note: Complementary Valet Parking with Validation.)

FIG Restaurant
(at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel)
101 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: (310) 319-3111

Hours: [Breakfast] 7 Days A Week, 7:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m.
[Brunch] Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Lunch] Mon - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Tues - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

http://figsantamonica.com/

Perseverance for the Love of Ramen (or, Handmade Wakayama-style Noodles in So Cal?!) - Gomen

2010-09-02T22:19:00.000-07:00

People open up restaurants for a spectrum of reasons. It could be to seize an opportunity to fill a niche, to make a living, or for the love of cooking whatever it is they're serving. For Chuuka Soba Gomen, it's thankfully because of a love of making Ramen (Japanese Soup Noodles) despite a variety of factors stacked against them.

Considering Gomen is my 'dachi Keizo's favorite Ramen in Orange County, I couldn't wait to give this place a try. :) The first interesting and challenging factor is that Gomen is located in a quiet, seemingly half-deserted mini-mall in the heart of Stanton of all places (at least they don't have to worry about Ramen competition in the area). Opened by Chef-Owner Koji Takeda a few years back, Gomen is the result of Takeda-san giving up his previous Japanese Teishoku (Set Meal) restaurant and moving to Wakayama, Japan to study Wakayama-style Ramen-making. After finishing his training, he opened up Gomen and has been quietly making his Ramen ever since.

"Gomen" is an odd name for a restaurant (it means "I'm sorry" in Japanese), and it's in reference to the elderly Takeda-san apologizing to all his customers for his odd business hours (FYI: They're open Mon - Wed and Fri - Sat for only 3 hours for Lunch; only open on Fri and Sat for Dinner; and closed Thursday and Sunday(!)); Chef Takeda is literally a one man operation in the kitchen (with 2 waitresses and no busboys helping out front)), so at his current age, these hours are the most that he can maintain with his own strength. There's also a second meaning behind the "I'm sorry" name that I heard from a friend who spoke with Takeda-san years ago (a personal tragedy that's really sad), but at this point it's only hearsay since I didn't get a chance to ask Takeda-san personally (nor would I want to pry).

Stepping into Gomen for the first time (about ~1.5 years ago) reveals a well-lit, surprisingly spacious Ramen restaurant. There's a counter up front with 5 seats as well, and the classic bookshelf filled with Manga for those wanting to read something while slurping a bowl of Ramen. :)

Note: Takeda-san uses No MSG (besides the trace amounts found in Soy Sauce) for any of his Ramen offerings.

I start with their Tonkotsu Shio Chuuka Soba (listed as "Tonkotsu Salt Ramen" in English (Ramen Noodles in a Pork Bone and Salt-base Broth)).

It should be noted that despite the similar-sounding name, the "Tonkotsu Shio" Ramen served here at Gomen is a Wakayama-style creation, quite different from the popular "Tonkotsu Shio" served at Santouka, which is an Asahikawa-style Ramen.

Taking a sip, there's a light porcine flavor with notes of Torigara (Chicken Bones) and Katsuobushi. It's quite heavy on the Salt unfortunately, and the end result is a rather mild, slightly porky, mainly salty Broth. It's not bad, but it's definitely on the milder side if you're looking for a deep pork-fish funkiness (like at Santouka).

The Noodles are noteworthy in being Handmade Ramen Noodles, made fresh every day (they're open) by Takeda-san(!). Gomen now marks the first local Ramen-ya I've been to that serves Noodles made in-house, but sadly, they lack the body and proper bite of a great Noodle. Each time I've had their Handmade Noodles over the past 1.5 years, it's ranged from ~too soft (overcooked), to decent, but too egg-y (like Lo Mein with less body) than anything. While the Noodles fall short, it's still impressive that Takeda-san is one of the few Ramen shops in So Cal to make their own Noodles in-house on a daily basis.

Note: They serve the Handmade Noodles only with their house specialty Tonkotsu Salt and Tonkotsu Soy Sauce offerings. The other dishes use an outsourced, thicker variety.

For the accompaniments, their Menma (Bamboo Shoots) are of the extremely pungent and potent variety, so if you enjoy those strong flavors, this one's for you. :) Their Tamago (Egg) is of the Hard-Boiled variety, very typical and bland.

But if there's one thing that stands out beyond anything else in this bowl of Ramen, it's their Chashu (Roast Pork Slices). Every time I've gone to Gomen, their Chashu has been consistently fresh, tender, with a deep braised succulence; slightly fatty and juicy. They're right up there with Foo Foo Tei for best Chashu in a bowl of Ramen locally. :)

Their Gyoza (Pan Fried Pork & Vegetable Dumplings) are a decent offering.

There's a good sear on each Dumpling, but the Gyoza skin tastes like a standard, store-bought variety with an OK balance of Pork and Vegetables in a medium mince.

The highest recommended dish of their menu is their Tonkotsu Shoyu Chuuka Soba ("Tonkotsu Soy Sauce") (Ramen Noodles in a Pork Bone and Soy Sauce-base Broth)).

It's also what best represents Takeda-san's training in Japan, a Wakayama-style Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen. The Broth seems a bit inconsistent at times; on one of my earliest visits, it tastes really bland with only a light Tonkotsu flavor coming through. On a later visit, there's a nice, light creaminess with a good balance between the Tonkotsu (Pork Bone) and Shoyu (Soy Sauce), as well as Chicken flavors. Like their Tonkotsu Shio, this is very different from the similarly named offering at Santouka: This is a Tonkotsu-blend Ramen for those that enjoy a lighter, more balanced flavor.

The Handmade Noodles fare about as well as in their Tonkotsu Shio: A straight, thin, yellowish Noodle with not enough chew. Their Chashu is just as impressive as in their Tonkotsu Shio dish; buttery, fresh with a deep Soy Sauce flavor coming through.

On another visit, my guest and I start with their simplest Shio Chuuka Soba ("Salt Ramen" (Ramen Noodles in a Salt-base Broth)).

It's a rather simple Torigara (Chicken Bone) Broth, not as good as Foo Foo Tei's wonderful Shio, but it fills the need if you find yourself craving it at Gomen. The barely poached Moyashi (Mung Bean Sprouts) pair nicely with the Negi (Green Onions) and the more delicate, lighter flavors in this Shio Broth. And their Chashu is as delicious as always, with the rich, deep Mirin and Soy Sauce flavors permeating each bite.

Another classic side dish worth considering is their Yakimeshi (Fried Rice).

Wok-fried fresh to order, it's a touch too greasy but it's a piping hot bowl of Fried Rice with a good balance of Egg, Green Onions and bits of Pork.

The last of their three Tonkotsu-based Ramen is their Tonkotsu Miso Chuuka Soba ("Tonkotsu Miso" (Ramen Noodles in a Pork Bone and Miso-base Broth)).

It's lightly spicy, slightly oily, with a decent Miso flavor coming through that complements the Tonkotsu's porkiness a bit better than their Shio or Shoyu offering. There's also some Corn thrown in as well, which is decent, but doesn't seem to work as well as when it's found in a Sapporo-style offering.

In addition to the 3 Tonkotsu-blend Ramen dishes, Takeda-san offers another 13(!) flavors of Ramen, but they are all based off the plain Shio (Salt) or Shoyu (Soy Sauce) Broth, with different toppings added (e.g., Assorted Sauteed Vegetables, or tons of Bean Sprouts, etc.). I order their Mabo Chuuka Soba ("Mabo Ramen" (Ramen Noodles with Ground Pork, Tofu, Green Onion in a Mabo Tofu Sauce)), which has the potential to be the boldest flavor from this bunch.

The first sip reveals a very sweet, thick Mabo Tofu Sauce. It's a bit too sweet, with not enough depth or savoriness to give it a standout characteristic. There's a decent medium burn with each bite, but it's missing any numbing aspects of a good Mabo Tofu. The tender bits of their slow-roasted Chashu and the silken Tofu are nice, but they can't save the sugary Mabo Sauce. :(

But perhaps the most surprising Ramen on the menu might very well be their Negi Chuuka Soba ("Negi Ramen" (Ramen Noodles with Spicy Green Onions in a Soy Sauce-base Broth)).

The base Shoyu (Soy Sauce) Broth is nothing to write home about; it's quite tame and a bit too bland. And the Noodles here are the mass-produced, ubiquitous thicker, yellow, curly Noodles found in too many places around town.

But the combination of the fragrant, spring-like, refreshing, delicate, onion-y flavors from the finely shredded Negi (Green Onions), dressed in Rayu (Hot Chili Oil) with some of the slow-cooked, super tender, fresh Chashu, and the light Shoyu Broth = Happiness. :) It's just a satisfying, delicate combination that has more flavor then the individual components combined. (Disclaimer: I'm a huge Negi fan, so if you don't like Green Onions, this may not be for you. :)

Despite having only 2 waitresses and no busboys, the service at Gomen has always been just fine. You can wave to get the attention of any waitress and they quickly resolve whatever you need. Prices range from $3.60 - $7.25 with most bowls of Ramen in the ~$6 range. I average about ~$11 per person (including tax and tip)).

It's nice to see a place like Gomen trying to deliver Wakayama-style Ramen - with Handmade Noodles, no less - in the unlikeliest of places in Southern California. And while their Ramen tend to be a bit too timid and mild at times, and their Handmade Noodles lack the greatness of the best Handmade offerings in Japan, there's something admirable about what Takeda-san is doing. There's a saying in Japanese, "isshoukenmei", which roughly means "doing the best that you can; giving it your absolute all", and it's apparent here. Despite a completely unexpected and challenging location, despite the restrictions with his age and strength (that restrict his ability to open normal business hours) and other challenges, Takeda-san keeps plugging away, trying to make the best bowl of Ramen he can. This is not a destination restaurant in the slightest, but if I happen to be in the area and crave a bowl of Ramen, I'd be happy to stop by.

Rating: 6.7 (out of 10)

Chuuka Soba Gomen
7147 Katella Ave.
Stanton, CA 90680
Tel: (714) 761-8007

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Wed, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
[Dinner] Fri - Sat Only, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Closed on Thursdays and Sundays.

Smoky, Meaty, Tender Barbecue (or, The Mouth-Watering Beef Brisket, Spare Ribs and Pulled Pork of Bludso's BBQ)

2010-08-25T10:29:00.000-07:00

In the world of Food, while everyone's taste is subjective, there are certain hot button topics that can spark a non-stop debate for years if not decades. Just mention the word "Burger" or "Pizza" and there will be no end to the amount of discussion that ensues. (^_~) "Barbecue" falls into this category as well, and the diversity of what constitutes as "BBQ" might be even greater than the Burger or Pizza Wars, ranging from a restaurant grilling some Chicken and pouring over mass-produced BBQ Sauce and calling that "BBQ Chicken", going all the way up to the intricate discussions on authentic styles of "Eastern North Carolina Barbecue" vs. "Western North Carolina Barbecue" vs. "Memphis Style", etc. I'm no Barbecue expert, but when I can enjoy slow-cooked, smoky, meaty but tender, fresh-tasting Beef and Pork in So Cal, call me happy. :) Such is the case with a wonderful hole-in-the-wall Barbecue joint known as Bludso's BBQ.

I still remember my first visit 1.5 years ago. Hearing some Hounds talk excitedly about Bludso's great Barbecue made this an immediate "must try" on my list of restaurants. :) Walking up to the storefront, my guest and I notice that they're still not open, but we could smell this amazing, delicious cloud of smoky meat vapors wafting around the building. Stepping around the corner, we see a parking lot and a giant BBQ smoker and are warmly greeted by two people tending to the slow-cooked meats. They turn out to be BBQ Master-Owner Kevin Bludso and his Assistant Pit Master Larry. Kevin Bludso originally learned about Barbecue from helping at his Grandma's restaurant near Corsicana, Texas since the age of 9.

I also smell some incredible deep-fried goodness and realize they're making Deep Fried Turkeys (they make them upon request (order in advance) and during Thanksgiving).

You often hear about Southern hospitality, but seeing it in person, and all the charm and joviality surrounding Bludso's BBQ made me feel like I was sitting at a friend's backyard party. Mr. Bludso mentions that they're running a little behind, but offers up some chairs and water or soda while we wait as they open up the shop. And as they're removing the Beef, Pork, Chicken and Links from the smoker, you can hear them zinging each other to pass the time:

Larry (from Louisiana) gives Kevin (grew up in Texas and Cali) some flack about Texas.

Kevin Bludso (chiding Larry): "Man, you so old, yo' Social Security number is ONE!" (^_^)

The store is open at this point and we head up front to order. Bludso's BBQ is really a takeout stand; they have ~5 stools and a small counter where you can eat, but no tables (I've eaten at their counter a couple times and it's fine if you don't mind the limited space).

Wanting to try all of their amazing BBQ, we order their Texas Sampler, which includes their Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs, Beef Brisket, Rib Tips, Chicken, Beef Links, Pork Links, Chicken Links, and Pork Shoulder (Pulled Pork). You can add their Angus Beef Rib as an option for $2 (on Weekends Only). It sounded like a lot, but we had no idea about how gargantuan this was (it turns out to be about ~5+ pounds of food(!)). :)

Note: Be sure to ask for the Barbecue Sauce on the Side, so that you can enjoy the smoked meats on their own and control how much Sauce you want (some of the pictures below are from my 2nd visit where in my haste, I forgot to request this, so you can see how much Sauce is used regularly).

We start with their Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs (listed as simply "Rib" on the menu).

There's a gorgeous smoke ring and nice bark. And I take a bite...

Tendrils of complex smokiness pervade my senses; a beautiful aroma of Pecan and Oak Wood combined with Mesquite Charcoal from the slow-cooking. It's followed by this true succulence: A wave of juicy, meaty porky happiness, with notes of Apple, Brown Sugar, Pepper, Oregano and other Spices. Awesome! (^_^)

And then there are those delectable crunchy bits of Pork Cartilage that any Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage) fan can appreciate: The Cartilage is cooked long enough to provide some crunchiness but soft enough that it doesn't require much effort to chew through; a lovely textural contrast. :)

Consistency is a very important aspect in regards to Barbecue: All too often you might find some fresh-tasting, juicy Ribs during 1 visit at a restaurant, only to be stuck with Barbecue that's been sitting too long on another visit. For my 3 visits to Bludso's BBQ, all of the Barbecue has been consistently well cooked each and every time (I also visited them on different days of the week each visit, to see if that made a difference).

Bludso's offers up 2 kinds of their Homemade Barbecue Sauce - Hot or Mild - and this is where there might be controversy amongst some purists.

I've met people who turn their nose in disdain if anyone attempts to use Barbecue Sauce on their Barbecue; they claim that great Barbecue doesn't need any Sauce at all, and it's all about the Rub and the meat itself. And then there's the taste and thickness of Bludso's Homemade Barbecue Sauce: Mr. Bludso has mentioned that he had to adjust his Barbecue Sauce over the years (from the original style he learned and developed from his Grandmother) because his customers here in California wanted it thicker and sweeter.

While I have no idea what that original Sauce might've tasted like, the current Homemade Mild Barbecue Sauce that Kevin makes is simply delicious. :) It's a Tomato-based Sauce, with Molasses, Cayenne Pepper and his proprietary blend of other Spices. There's a great sweet tang and peppery quality, along with a very mild heat.

The Homemade Hot Barbecue Sauce turns up the heat level a few notches higher, with a medium burn (but nowhere near, say, Jitlada's most incendiary dishes).

If there's one "filler" item in the Texas Sampler, it might be their trio of Beef, Pork and Chicken Smoked Links.

The Links are outsourced, but Kevin cooks them up in the same Smoker as the rest of his meats, giving each type of Sausage Link a meaningful smoky edge. They're not "bad" at all (if you enjoy Smoked Sausage Links they're fine), but it's clear that their made-from-scratch Barbecued Meats are the real stars here.

The Barbecued Chicken is surprisingly well-executed.

As expected, there's a great smoky quality that seeps into most of the Chicken, along with Black Pepper, but the most surprising aspect is that the Chicken Breast / White Meat portions have been at least semi-moist to juicy during each of my visits. It's thankfully never been dried out. But overall, in light of the other offerings, their Barbecued Chicken - while healthier - isn't something I'd seek out if I had a choice.

And then there's the 15 Hour Slow-Roasted, Pork Shoulder (also used in their Pulled Pork Sandwich).

Besides Pork Spare Ribs, I'd have to say Pulled Pork / Pork Shoulder is my 2nd favorite type of protein when eating Barbecue. :) And thankfully Bludso's Pork Shoulder is very good. Being cooked for over 15 Hours, the Pork Shoulder has consistently been very tender with the Oak and Pecan woodsiness present in every bite without it being overpowering. It's also tasted *fresh* (i.e., not leftovers or reheated) each time I've gone, and has become my favorite Pulled Pork locally. Excellent! :)

And while their Pork Spare Ribs are top-notch, those that prefer more soft Cartilage and Meat (and no Bone), should consider their Rib Tips.

Indeed, the Rib Tips are an extension and continuation of where the delicious Pork Spare Ribs left off, having a great bark and smoke ring, as well as a little more fat and much more of the satisfying crunchy Pork Cartilage. :) The very end piece (the very tip) does tend to be drier, but there's so much concentrated Barbecue goodness that the dried out portions don't feel like a loss. Delicious. :)

Breaking up this meat madness is probably my favorite Side Order at Bludso's: Collard Greens (listed simply as "Greens" on the menu).

On paper, it sounds boring enough, but these Collard Greens are wonderfully garlicky, tender and lightly spicy.

I generally tend to shy away from Barbecued Beef Ribs, as they're usually gargantuan and a bit too unwieldy at times, but Bludso's Angus Beef Ribs (Weekends Only) maintain the quality level of their other offerings.

There's a hardcore Coarse Black Pepper and Salt flavor that comes through on the crust, followed by a more intense smokiness (more than their other Barbecue dishes). The Angus Beef Ribs have always been consistently juicy on each of my visits, and it pairs well with their Mild Homemade Barbecue Sauce.

But perhaps the biggest surprise and shock of the entire menu is Bludso's Beef Brisket.

This 15 Hour, Slow-Cooked piece of beefy goodness is outstanding! (^_^) It's *so* juicy and luscious and sexy (thanks to the supple layer of Beef Fat) and it just skyrocketed "Beef Brisket" to the top of my list of favorite Barbecued Meats (at least at Bludso's (^_~)).

Besides their Collard Greens, there are 4 other choices for Side Orders, starting with their Mac & Cheese.

Their Mac & Cheese has been a bit inconsistent during each of my visits: A couple times the Mac & Cheese has been creamy and cheesy, while on my latest visit, it was overcooked, with the Macaroni being almost mush (it still had a good flavor, but it was way overcooked).

Their Baked Beans remind me of the Baked Beans they'd give at my school cafeteria growing up (not in a bad way :) - It's that familiar, classic, sweet, mellow, thick Beans in a Brown Sauce that I got as a kid at school. It's not egregious, but nothing to write home about. :)

Their Corn Bread (included with Lunch or Dinner plates) is crumbly, moist and only lightly sweet; an enjoyable respite from the meat. :)

And their Potato Salad is very creamy, a touch sweeter than what I prefer, with soft chunks of Potato; a solid option.

Their Desserts tend to fall on the sweeter side. The Banana Pudding is a simple Banana-flavored Pudding mixed with Vanilla Wafer Cookies. It's really straightforward and fills a certain craving if you're in the mood for it.

Their Red Velvet Cake is made daily by Kevin Bludso's Mother.

It's not going to win any awards for excellence, but the slightly-dry-but-still-moist Red Velvet Cake tastes like you're eating a homemade dessert at your friend's house (baked by your friend's mom or grandmother). It's rustic, a bit too sweet, but not mass-produced.

Service has always been warm and friendly: You order at the counter and pick up your order when ready. And if you're eating at their small counter, you might hear Cookie (who runs the front of the house) or Kevin Bludso asking if you need any more napkins or if everything's alright. Prices range from $2.85 - $28.50 (for the Texas Sampler (which can feed 3-4 people comfortably)).

Bludso's BBQ turns out some of the most delectable Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs, Rib Tips, Beef Brisket and Pulled Pork Shoulder around town. Whether it's truly "authentic Texas-style BBQ" is something I leave to the experts, but with their nuanced smoky bark, satisfyingly substantial Spare Ribs that are as meaty as they are tender (without it being too soft), wonderfully supple Pulled Pork Shoulder, and the amazing Beef Brisket, Bludso's is a great place to stop by for some 'Cue. :)

Rating: 8.4 (out of 10)

Bludso's BBQ
811 S. Long Beach Blvd.
Compton, CA 90221
Tel: (310) 637-1342

Hours: Tues - Thurs, 11:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Sun, 12:30 p.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays & Rainy Days (since the Smoker is outside).

http://www.bludsosbbqandcatering.com/

Jack Of All Trades - Izayoi

2010-08-18T17:00:00.000-07:00

Finding success in the restaurant business can be a tough prospect. At the core of the restaurant is the age-old question of culinary viewpoint. What are one's goals? And once you decide on a viewpoint, how expansive or in-depth do you want to go? Is it better to try and appease as many people as possible, or focus on specializing in a few dishes? For the Izakaya (Japanese Pub) known as Izayoi, they've taken the generalist approach, and in light of the constant crowds and celebrating their 5th year anniversary, it looks like they've achieved solid success.

My 1.5 years worth of visits have seen changes in the kitchen and, as a result, consistency issues with a variety of their signature dishes. At the heart of the problem may be their massive menu that seems to be part of their philosophy to have something for everyone: You've got traditional Izakaya small plates like Hijiki or Roasted Ginko Nuts, and then traditional Sushi and Sashimi flowing into crazy Fusion Rolls like their Red Dragon Roll and B.S.C. Roll (Baked Scallop on top of a California Roll). There's the ever-popular So Cal favorite Salmon Teriyaki plate, Nabe (Hot Clay Pots), Salads, their version of Shumai Shrimp Dumplings, classic Pub food like Buta no Kakuni (Pork Belly), Deep Fried items, Kushiage, Tempura, Macaroni Gratin, Fondue, Soba and Udon Noodles, and things like Mochi Ice Cream as well. It's impressive and amazing that the kitchen can keep up with so many distinct offerings, but in the end it suffers a bit for it.

Izayoi occupies a comfortable, open, cheery space in the heart of Little Tokyo. The tables can be a bit close at times, but it's designed well-enough to allow for some solid communal merriment and enjoyable dinners. :)

Their Sake Menu features some solid choices, in both bottle and glass servings. You have the usual suspects: Hakutsuru, Kikusui, Otokoyama and Hakkaisan. For those new to Sake, you might consider Kikusui for its gentle, clean taste with a light floral finish. By the glass, Kira, Onigoroshi, Harushika and Kubota Hekiju are all decent, but by far their best offering is Kubota Manju. Unfortunately, the markup on Kubota Manju here is the steepest I've encountered in So Cal so far, going for $25 per glass(!). One time, the waitress quoted me a bottle at about $300, which is pretty extreme (you can still find a good bargain at some Izakayas or Yakitori-yas for only ~$125 per bottle). But it's certainly the cleanest and smoothest amongst their offerings.

During one of my earliest visits over 1.5 years ago, I start with their Ankimo (Steamed Monk Fish Liver served with Ponzu Sauce).

The Ankimo is relatively fresh, but a tad too fishy and dull. The Ponzu Sauce and Negi (Green Onions) help to balance things out a bit, but it's still a bit disappointing.

Their Jikasei Tofu (Izayoi Homemade Tofu) arrives next.

I'm always excited to try a Homemade Tofu, in the hopes that I can find a great version here in So Cal. Izayoi's version is very clean, but it seems almost too clean and plain. There's a lack of a genuine Soy Bean essence coming through. The texture has always been a bit dense for my tastes, but still enjoyable. If they can work on improving their Tofu-making process, they might have a real winner here.

One of the more interesting dishes is their Buta Niku no Saikyo Yaki (Pork Belly Marinated in Saikyo Miso).

There's a good porcine flavor coming through with each bite, accented heavily by a very pungent, heavily fermented version of Saikyo Miso. It's slightly sweet, tangy and one of the more interesting flavors I've had over the years at Izayoi.

One of the mainstays at most Izakaya restaurants in So Cal is the classic dish known as Agedashi Tofu (Deep Fried Tofu in Broth).

Unfortunately, Izayoi's version is a misstep: Their Agedashi Tofu over the years has consistently been soggy, with the Katakuriko (Potato Starch) exterior always over soaked in the sauce by the time it arrives at the table, with the soggy outside falling off the Tofu. :( It's a far cry from Izakaya Bincho's legendary Agedashi Tofu, but to be fair, most local versions fare about the same.

Their limited selection of grilled items (their attempt at popular Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewer) dishes) is probably best represented with their Nankotsu Kushiyaki (Chicken Cartilage Skewers)).

Made with Yagen Nankotsu (Cartilage from the Chicken Breast, instead of the Leg portion) - a nice touch - it's unfortunately dried out and really one note. This is another example of in trying to please all crowds, certain items suffer. They use a gas grill to cook the Nankotsu (instead of over Japanese Binchotan (White Charcoal)) and without that smokiness, their Kushiyaki items lack the real smoky depth you'd expect at a good Yakitori-ya.

I know better than to order Sushi at an Izakaya, but over the years, I've had guests who have always been in the curious mood to try something from their Sushi Menu. On one visit we try their Chutoro and Uni.

Their Uni (Sea Urchin) from Santa Barbara is extremely pedestrian. On a scale of 1 - 100, with 100% being perfect, sweet, pure Uni loveliness, Izayoi's version is about a ~60%: It's extremely fishy and briny, tasting like something you'd find in many average Sushi bars around So Cal. :( To make matters worse, the Nori wrapping around the Uni is soggy and soft.

Their Chutoro (Medium-Fatty Bluefin Tuna Belly) fares better, with a moderately fresh taste, but each piece is marred with gristle / connective tissue.

But perhaps the one dish that seems to offer the best mirror into the ebb and flow of the changing kitchen staff is their Buta no Kakuni (Simmered Pork Belly).

The very first time I had this dish 1.5 years ago, it was nearly inedible: Extremely salty and simultaneously too cloying(!) (with an overdose of Sugar and Mirin), one of my guests literally dunked it in a cup of Green Tea to try and salvage some of this dish. :( Over the years, sometimes it's moist, other times dried out and chunky, and on my most recent visit it seems to have settled on "sweet, but very fatty and slightly dried out." If they can improve their consistency, it has a chance of being a solid example of the famous Japanese Pork Belly dish, but currently, it's a distant runner-up to Okan's vibrant version, and Izakaya Bincho's 48 Hour version.

One of the better dishes I've had is their Kamo to Nasu no Kuwayaki (Sauteed Duck and Eggplant).

Thin slices of Grilled Duck and Eggplant are layered across the plate, with a decent Katakuriko (Potato Starch) Soy Sauce-based Sauce. There's a good, standout Duck flavor coming through with each bite. It tends to be on the saltier side, but is quickly alleviated with some Steamed Rice or Beer/Sake. :)

One area where Izayoi could improve upon substantially would be their Deep Frying skills. Consider their Iwashi no Suri Shiso no Hasami Age (Minced Sardine Wrapped with Shiso Leaf and Deep Fried), which is a good example of potential and mistakes.

Each piece of this Minced Sardine with Shiso Leaf exhibits the commonly found thick Tempura batter that's fried at the wrong temperature (it's saturated with oil). What's frustrating is that the flavor combination is excellent: There's a satisfying oceanic component from the Iwashi (Sardine), combined with fragrant, herbal-y Shiso Leaf, and it's lovely. But the outer batter is just too greasy. One can't expect that they rival a Tempura specialist like Komatsu or Inaba, but if it's on the menu at a popular place like Izayoi, you hope that the kitchen can approach their level of execution at least.

Probably one of my favorite items on the menu has to be their Burokkuri- Salada / Mentai Mayo Doresshingu (Cooked Broccoli served Chilled with Spicy Cod Roe Dressing).

There's been a consistently clean, bright, crispness to this Salad, each time I've ordered it. The Broccoli is always just cooked through, supple while still maintaining a good firmness, and their House-made Mentaiko Dressing hits just the right notes of spicy and briny (in a good way). Excellent! :)

If their Broccoli Salad represents the bright and crisp, their Gomakoromo Tofu (Grounded Sesame Paste on top of Homemade Tofu) represents the silky, creamy and sexy side of the menu.

The first thought that enters the mind when placing a spoonful in your mouth is "refreshing." Followed by this amazing confluence of silkiness, aromatic nuttiness from the Black Sesame and White Sesame, a teasing sweetness and a feint backnote of bitter. It's absolutely wonderful and my favorite dish at Izayoi next to their Broccoli Salad. (^_^)

For all the wonderful surprise in their Black Sesame Tofu, their Kamo Ro-su (Miso Marinated Grilled Duck Sirloin) is unexpected in a different way.

Forget any notions of what you think "Duck Sirloin" should taste like, and know that this is an explosion of Duck Offal: There's a heavy mineral-y, metallic, pungent funk that pervades each bite and it shocks the palate. While I enjoy Offal sometimes, it's just overwhelming in this dish and the texture of the Duck "Sirloin" is extremely chewy and full of gristle and tendon, which makes it even harder to eat. :(

In repeat visits to Izayoi, I'm always hoping to find more specialty dishes, something that makes them stand out from the crowd, and one of the dishes that had the most potential but falls short is their Jikasei Satsuma Age (Izayoi Homemade Deep-Fried Fish Cake) (3 Kinds Mix).

Homemade Fish Cake can be a wonderful thing, and I can't wait to try it, but the first type of Homemade Fish Cake is extremely dense and elastic, it has a store-bought taste, except that it's extremely fishy (in a bad way). :( The 2nd type of Fish Cake is combined with Potatoes and there's a decent crisped exterior. It's thankfully less pungent than the first type, but still underwhelming. The 3rd type of Fish Cake has a density inbetween the soft Potato blend and the rubbery 1st type. Overall, it's something I won't be ordering again.

Finally, their Wakadori Tatsuta Age (Japanese Style Fried Chicken) probably best summarizes many of the dishes coming out of the kitchen these days.

There's a decent breading on this Chicken that's slightly doughy with a feint crunch. The Chicken is bordering on dryish, but still has some moisture, and the seasoning is rather one-note. The classic Karaage (Japanese style Fried Chicken) is an item one hopes every good Izayaka can get right, but it falls short here. While it would be good to match the excellence of the outstanding Karaage at Torihei or Izakaya Bincho's version, even a few notches below would be welcome, but sadly it's not.

Service has been consistently OK: You just wave your hand to get the attention of a waitress passing by the tables should you need anything. Prices range from $3.50 - $19.50 (for a Sushi Combination platter), with most dishes in the ~$8 range. We average about ~$45 per person (including tax and tip).

Izayoi is a good example of one of the newer Izakayas to hit Southern California. It has a good, simple design, welcoming ambiance and a massive menu to try and appease all customers. But in trying to cover all the bases, it loses the razor sharp focus to deliver consistently excellent, specialized dishes with a smaller menu. While there are some standouts like their Broccoli Mentaiko Salad and their Homemade Tofu with Black Sesame, there are too many dishes that fall short of greatness. Still, judging by the crowds and the fact that they've survived over 5 years in Little Tokyo (they were around even before the recent boom in local residents), they're doing something right. As it stands, Izayoi is the best Izakaya in Little Tokyo and I'll be back if I'm in the area, but they're a Jack of all trades, and master of none.

Rating: 6.3 (out of 10)

Izayoi
(Little Tokyo)
132 South Central Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (213) 613-9554

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Fri, 5:45 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

Oceanic Exploration - The Succulent Live Lobster, Crab, Giant Shrimp, Geoduck, Fish and More at Sea Harbour (Dinner)

2010-08-11T13:33:00.000-07:00

In delivering some of the best Dim Sum in Southern California, Sea Harbour garners a lot of attention (and rightfully so). But there's been noticeably less consideration for its dinner service over the years, probably due to a variety of factors, but most notably the premium price tag. For myself, over the past ~4 years of eating at Sea Harbour for dinner, it's been the slightly inconsistent quality of some of their dishes (their Live Seafood has always been great) that has left me less enthused than I normally would be for a restaurant of this caliber. It had been a good 8+ months since I last returned to Sea Harbour, but thanks to the repeated, strong recommendations from Chowhound veteran ipsedixit, I decided to stop by for a visit recently and found a completely reinvigorated menu and kitchen.

Since Day 1, Sea Harbour has staked its reputation on delivering high-quality, premium Hong Kong-style Cantonese Cuisine, even though the location may not seem to match its aspirations (they're situated where the old Farrell's Ice Cream Parlour used to be on Rosemead). Over the years, ordering anything that doesn't involve Live Seafood has resulted in some great dishes, some average dishes and a few misses as well. Their menu began to look really mundane and beaten down (literally - they hadn't replaced their menus in years, with crossed out prices, etc.), but on a recent visit, they've completely revamped their menu (with gorgeous layouts) and dropped the majority of the non-Live Seafood items (which is a good thing). The new menu is more focused and apparently they ship off their kitchen staff to their main branch in Zhongshan, China (just across from Hong Kong), where they train with Executive Chef Ho Hui Dong once a year.

(Note: This is a comprehensive review of my multiple visits over the past 4 years at Sea Harbour.)

(Note 2: All English romanizations of Chinese dish names are spelled phonetically to help with pronunciation; thanks to my SGV Hounds for translation help. :)

The interior is brightly lit and nicer than most San Gabriel Valley eateries, but even with their recent remodeling, they aren't going to be winning any restaurant design awards anytime soon; there's still a strange choice of decor in various parts of the restaurant. But it's pleasant enough, and you're treated to a wall of fish tanks, showcasing the variety of Live Seafood they're selling for that day.

Sea Harbour offers a variety of down-to-earth, traditional Cantonese dishes if you're in the mood, with their Jiao Yen Hsien Yoh (Fried Squid in Salty Chili) being a good example.

It's a slightly thick, crunchy batter, with a salty brininess and notes of Green Onions and hot Chilies complementing each bite. The Squid has been cooked just right each time I've ordered it over the years; a solid rendition of this classic dish.

Another humble dish that the kitchen gets right is the Tsong Tsai Zheng Rou Bing (Marinated Ground Pork Steamed with Preserved Vegetables).

The Ground Marinated Pork isn't too dense, with a pleasant, hearty, savory quality. The Preserved Vegetables impart a fragrant, salty-tart undertone that helps to break up the flavors of the Steamed Ground Pork. Delicious. :)

Although sometimes, Sea Harbour's aim to elevate dishes doesn't always work out, as in their Mei Tsai Rou Song Zheng Tsai Dahn (Ground Meat Steamed with Salted Vegetables).

The dish tastes like it looks: Two distinct, disparate parts, with the Steamed Ground Pork with Preserved Vegetables tasting similar to the previous dish and simply sitting on top of Boiled Chinese Mustard Greens.

One of the best values on the menu that shows some of the elegant simplicity of the kitchen is their Hsieh Rou Yu Du Geng (Fish Maw and Crab Meat Soup).

It's a light, thick soup, with chunks of Crab and Fish Maw cooked with Eggs in a Homemade Chicken Broth. It's lightly oceanic, warming and the notes of White Pepper perk up each bite perfectly. :) (Note: Don't forget to add a touch of Red Rice Vinegar if you enjoy a little tartness to the savory soup.)

Another homely, classic dish is their Jiao Yen Rou Pai (Spicy Salted Pork Chops).

You're immediately hit with the aroma of Deep Fried Garlic and Chilies, which transitions to crispy, crunchy satisfying bites of Deep Fried Pork Chops. :) The only problem is that over the years, the kitchen has been inconsistent with this dish. Sometimes, it's spot-on, while other times, it tastes overcooked and/or muted. They have since removed this dish from the menu (with their new menu revamp), but can make it upon request.

Next up is their Bai Guo Fu Zhu Yoh Tsai (Gingko Nuts Sauteed with Tofu Skin and Chinese Flowering Cabbage).

This is another dish that feels less well-integrated than it should be, with silky, slippery layers of Tofu Skin pairing fine with the Yoh Tsai vegetables, but clashing with the bitter, pungent Sauteed Gingko Nuts.

On the first of my recent visits (after the revamped menu), there's a noticeable change, even in the staff and service: As we're seated, we're asked what kind of tea we'd like (in previous visits, we oftentimes had to ask for a certain tea, otherwise we were just given a generic blend). You can choose from Chrysanthemum, Pu-Erh, Jasmine, Asphodel, Iron Goddess of Mercy or Ju Bu (a combination of Chrysanthemum and Pu-Erh Teas). We opted for Chrysanthemum Flower Tea for this visit. :)

We're also provided an amuse bouche of Simmered Lotus Root, which is crisp, earthy and exhibits an irresistible snap. :)

So with the new, retooled menu, the focus is squarely (and should be) on the variety of Seafood dishes, especially their Live Seafood. One of the highlights is their Live Lobster, which can be prepared in a variety of new and classic ways (11 styles total!): Lobster Fruit Salad, Lobster Sashimi, Stewed with Garlic and Chinese Rice Wine, Baked with Cheese and Cream, Baked with Superior Stock, Sauteed with Egg Whites, Wok Fried with Spicy Sauce, Pan Fried with Salt & Chilies, Pan Fried with Salt & Chilies Hong Kong Style (Bi Fohng Tahng), In a Rice Soup, or Fried with Green Onions and Ginger.

We usually opt for Live Lobster, Fried with Green Onions and Ginger, which is excellent, lightly sauced, and the Lobster has consistently been cooked just through, vibrant and juicy. :) Live Lobster, Sauteed with Egg Whites is a lot lighter, but still delicious, for those wanting to enjoy just the pure essence of the Lobster.

But as much as I enjoy Lobster, it just pales in comparison to my all-time favorite preparation of Shrimp: Bai Zuo Hsia (Poached Live Giant Shrimp (listed as "Prawns" on the menu)).

It's another market price item that you order by the pound (in half pound increments if you so desire), and there's nothing else like them. It's poached in its shell, so you have to peel them yourself, but it's *so* worth it. (^_^)

After peeling away the shell, you gently dip the Poached Live Shrimp into their Light Soy Sauce-based dipping sauce laced with Green Onions and Chili and you've got near-perfection! It's meatier, more tender and naturally sweeter than Lobster; delicious! (^_^) Over the past 4 years, the kitchen has always been consistently great with this dish. It's easily my favorite Live Seafood item at any Hong Kong / Cantonese Seafood restaurant. :) And if you're lucky and get some of the Live Shrimp with Shrimp Roe, it becomes even more amazing. :)

Part of the refocusing of the menu at Sea Harbour is one of the smartest changes I've seen at any of the Hong Kong-style Cantonese restaurants: Requiring their Half and Whole Chicken dishes to be ordered in advance (1 day notice). This allows the kitchen to finally serve consistently *fresh* Roasted or Fried Chickens without the cost-cutting measures plaguing most local restaurants serving these dishes (namely, serving leftover Chickens (tasting like it's 1-2 days old, reheated)).

Sea Harbour has now focused on 3 specialty Chicken dishes that require 1 day advance notice to order, and we decide to try their Bao Wong Ji, which is a Poached Free-Range Chicken served with a Wok-Fried Light Soy Sauce, Ginger, Green Onions and Cilantro.

The use of Huang Mao Ji (literally Yellow Feather Chicken (Free Range Chicken)) can be off-putting to some who are used to a fattier, looser Chicken meat. The Huang Mao Chicken's meat is denser, tighter and leaner, but it tastes so fresh (since it's made for your table's order only), and vibrant. Even the Chicken Breast portion is juicy and moist. Excellent! :)

Not every new dish on the menu is a winner, unfortunately, like their Ching Jie Tsao Zhu Jing Rou (There is no English name listed on the menu, but it's essentially Pork Neck Meat Sauteed with Asparagus).

The actual Pork Neck Meat and Asparagus are of good quality. Everything tastes fresh, but it also tastes very straightforward and one note.

One of my favorite vegetable dishes might very well be their Zhu Sheng Bai Tsai Dahn (Bamboo Pith Sauteed with Bok Choy).

While I enjoy the classic pure vegetables sauteed with a bit of Garlic (they usually have a selection of 3 - 6 varieties of fresh vegetables available that day), having their Bok Choy sauteed with Bamboo Pith just makes a good vegetable dish even better. :) For those that've never tried Bamboo Pith, it's slightly springy and spongy (in good way), and has a unique mouthfeel. It provides a playful textural contrast with whatever Vegetable it's paired with, and in the case of the lightly sauteed Bok Choy, it becomes the perfect foil.

Continuing on, the Hai Hsien Tsao Mien (Assorted Seafood with Fried Crispy Noodles) arrive next.

The dish arrives with Shrimp, Squid, Scallops and Rock Cod atop a bed of Chow Mein using thin Egg Noodles. The Noodles are a bit too wet and soggy in the center, but the rest of the Noodles are deliciously crispy and crunchy. The Scallops, Squid, Rock Cod and Shrimp are all cooked just right, with a pleasing tenderness.

Perhaps the ultimate celebratory, special occasion dish at most Hong Kong-style Cantonese restaurants is a restaurant's Shark Fin Soup. I haven't found a great Shark Fin's Soup in So Cal, so I'm curious how Sea Harbour's turns out. With their new menu, Sea Harbour serves Shark Fin in a variety of ways, atop fresh Papaya, or the new Pan Fried Shark's Fin with Black Truffles (at $70 per person). But my guests and I decide on their purest presentation: Hohng Shao Da Bao Chi (Braised Premium Shark's Fin in Brown Sauce).

It thankfully turns out to be far less ostentatiously presented than the gaudy, fake gold bowls at Elite, and upon taking the first sip... leagues better. Shark Fin is mainly cartilage, so there's very little inherent taste. As a result, a great Shark Fin Soup is all about the quality of the Soup it's presented in. The Soup has a fragrant aroma and a delicate, balanced savoriness with a slight ocean breeze.

The Shark Fin itself is of excellent quality, a thick meaty texture and the Bean Sprouts are cooked through which is nice touch after the disaster at Elite. Overall, a solid rendition of Shark Fin Soup, and the best version I've found so far locally, but still a distant third compared to the Shark Fin Specialists I tried in Hong Kong and Taipei.

For Clam lovers, their Jio Tsai Hua Rou Fa Tsao Ge Rou (Clams Sauteed with Pork and Chinese Chives) turns out to be a pleasant surprise.

There's an enticing brininess from the Clams, balanced by the slivers of Fatty Pork and refreshing Chinese Chives. The use of Red and Green Chilies adds a mild spiciness with a slow burn, which makes this dish even more enjoyable.

Another surprise dish is their Hai Shen Bei Gu Uh Zhang Bao (Braised Sea Cucumber, Goose Web, Chinese Mushrooms Casserole).

The Sea Cucumber is light and pliable, yet still retains enough meaty firmness to give it a satisfying chew. The Braising Sauce shows restraint and is well-balanced, not too salty nor overpowering.

But it's the Braised Goose Web (Goose Feet) that are the biggest surprise. I enjoy Goose when I can find it at local restaurants, but the Goose Web reminds me of just how much deep, genuine Poultry flavor Goose meat can exhibit. There are a lot of bones, but the Goose Skin, bits of meat and Cartilage are wonderful. :)

One of Sea Harbour's greatest strengths is their Live Fish (but also their most expensive item on the menu depending on the type (after Live King Crab)). They usually stock 2 or 3 types of Fish, depending on supplies, but most of the time it's Live Tilapia, Live Red Cod and Live Australian Grouper. You should always check with your server to see what the market price is for a Live Fish if you're going to order one, to prevent sticker shock. While Sea Harbour's other prices seem fair, their Live Fish prices exceed even Elite's prices, with Live Australian Grouper selling for a whopping $79 per pound (with a 2 pound minimum, and many times, their fish can run 3+ pounds); paying ~$240 for 1 fish dish is a bit extreme.

I usually go with their Ching Zheng Hohng Bahn (Steamed Red Cod with Green Onion and Cilantro) at $30 per pound.

Tied with the Poached Live Shrimp as one of my favorite dishes would have to be Hong Kong-style Cantonese Steamed Fish. :) There's nothing better than tasting, succulent, flaky, bright chunks of very fresh Fish (live just minutes earlier), and Sea Harbour's version is flawless. :) The Red Cod is firm, yet supple, and beautifully matched with their wok-fried Light Soy Sauce, Green Onions and Cilantro. Add this atop some Steamed Rice and you have one of the most delicious bites in town. (^_^)

The nice thing about ordering a larger Live Fish, is that you get the option to have the Fish Head prepared as a separate dish. On one visit, we have them prepare it as a Sha Guo Yu Toh (Fish Head Casserole (in Clay Pot)).

They deep fry chunks of the Red Cod Fish Head, and quickly braise it with Tofu, Ginger, Garlic and Green Onions. While there's not a lot of meat in the Fish Head chunks, there's a lot of flavor, and the Tofu and Braising Liquid make it all the more satisfying. :)

Another winner is their Sheng Zha Miao Ling Guh (Deep Fried Tender Squab), which requires a 1 day advanced notice.

Presented on an adorably cheesy, heart-shaped platter, our 2 Squabs taste fresh, with a delightful, slightly crisped skin. The Squab meat also has a light gaminess which makes it more distinct and appetizing.

We also order their Suan Rohng Tsao Lu Shwun (Asparagus Sauteed with Garlic) to balance out all the meat dishes. :)

It's cooked just right, with a good firmness in the Sauteed Asparagus.

We finish up with another outstanding dish: Hsiang Bah Bahng (Live Geoduck, Sashimi Style).

Their Live Geoduck can be prepared a variety of ways (like all their Live Seafood): Sashimi, Flash Soaked, Poached, Scalded Oil, Wok Fried with Ginger, or in a Soup. The "head" of the Geoduck can be prepared Fried with Salt & Chilies, Stir Fried with Preserved Vegetables or in a Rice Soup.

Over the years, I've found that I enjoy a Sashimi style the most, which is what we ordered here. Sea Harbour's execution of Geoduck Sashimi is excellent. The Live Geoduck is really bright, clean with a slight crunch and inherently sweet. It's gorgeous on its own, without any need to dab it in the provided Soy Sauce and Wasabi. :)

The 2nd preparation for the Geoduck "Head" is a bit disappointing though: Jiao Yen Hsiang Bah Bahng (Geoduck Fried in Salt & Chili).

The Fried Garlic Chips mixed in with each bite of the Geoduck meat is undeniably delicious, but it's just way too salty, making it nearly inedible. It's probably the only dish I've had at Sea Harbour that was this overpowering.

Service during dinner at Sea Harbour has been decent. It's fine for a standard Chinese restaurant in the San Gabriel Valley, but in presenting itself as a premium, quality establishment, their service still has room to improve. When showing up for a banquet / party, the service is usually very good, with multiple servers checking in on the table, clearing plates promptly and providing new ones, etc. On some occasions, though, the service can be a bit slow at times, and you'll find yourself waving to get any server's attention to tend to your needs.

Prices range dramatically from ~$10.50 - Market Price (the highest I've seen is the $79 per pound for the Live Australian Grouper), with most Non-Live Seafood items in the ~$13 - 15 range. Our average cost per person has also fluctuated dramatically, all depending on what you order. On some visits (with no Live Seafood items), it can fall in the ~$25 per person (including tax and tip) range, while if you want to go all out with Live King Crab, Live Lobster, Shark Fin Soup, etc., you can easily get into the $200+ per person range.

Sea Harbour represents one of Southern California's best Hong Kong-style Cantonese Seafood restaurants. With the newly revamped menu, removal of many dishes that didn't work, and a better focus on quality above all else, there's much to celebrate at this San Gabriel Valley gem. While the execution could still use some polish (for their Non-Live Seafood items), it's the best we have in So Cal, and with their top notch preparations for Live Seafood (especially the Poached Live Giant Shrimp, Steamed Live Fish and Live Geoduck), and advanced order items like their Deep Fried Tender Squab, any of their 3 Whole Free-Range Chicken dishes, and more, Sea Harbour has firmly re-established itself as the go-to restaurant for a great Hong Kong-style Cantonese Seafood dinner.

Rating: 8.2 (out of 10.0)

Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant (Hai Gahng Dah Jio Loh)
3939 N. Rosemead Blvd.
Rosemead, CA 91770
Tel: (626) 288-3939

Hours: [Dinner] 7 Days A Week, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

The Down-To-Earth, Hearty Japanese Dishes of Okan

2010-08-03T14:38:00.000-07:00

Over the years, my ~quarterly visits to my friends in San Diego has usually resulted in us ending up at a national chain restaurant when it comes around to lunch or dinner; the result of my dear SD friends being not really into the food scene. The past couple years have steadily improved, when I decided to look to my SD Hounds for some recommendations to save me from mediocrity. (^_~) And now, thanks to another great rec from kare_raisu, cgfan and other SD Hounds, I've come to understand the simple, delicious cooking of Wa Dining Okan. :)

Literally situated in a tiny corner of a strip mall, next to Nijiya Market, it's easy to miss the front entrance of Okan if you're not paying attention. Once inside, it's not that much bigger - the dining room is the size of some larger restaurants' waiting areas - with a dimly lit, warm, cozy atmosphere. As we arrive, it's completely packed with a waiting list, but thankfully we made reservations.

Helmed by Chef Yoshi Kojima (a native of Yokohama who learned how to cook in his native city before moving on to Los Angeles to further develop at "various Japanese restaurants" in the area (according to the manager)), the menu at Okan is simply massive and impressive. I'm worried as we peruse the items, as the larger a menu is, the harder it can be for a chef to properly master every single dish. Still, I'm excited at some of the delicious sounding specialties and we quickly place our order.

From their Seasonal Menu, we begin with their Renkon no Kinpira (Stir Fried Lotus Root).

The Renkon (Lotus Root) is lightly smoky, just cooked through while still retaining that enticing crisp crunch. It's lightly salty and sweet at the same time. Excellent. :)

The next starter is Zanmai Ni (Simmered Royal Fern in Broth).

It's always nice to see Zanmai on the menu, and its appearance at Okan signals something more significant out of the kitchen than the usual mainstream offerings. :) The Japanese Royal Fern's flavors are very well balanced: As with the Renkon, Kojima-san uses just the right amount of salty and sweet, as well as an enjoyable balance of textures.

Another surprise is their Daikon to Mizuna no Wafu Salada (Radish and Mizuna Wa-Fu Salad).

Normally served with Spinach, our waitress informs us they're serving this Salad with Mizuna Vegetable tonight (which I prefer). While the Mizuna and Daikon Radish slivers act as great complements to each other, it's the usage of some Katsuobushi (Bonito Shavings) and Jyako (Japanese Whitebait) that really elevates this dish. The slightly smoky, ocean breeze that hits the palate as you take each bite makes this one of the more enjoyable Salads I've had recently.

Our next dish arrives within minutes of the Salad: Iwashi no Kosoyaki to Tomato no Sote- (Sauteed Marinated Sardine and Tomato with Pickled Vegetables).

The Iwashi is deeply briny (in a good way), and the bits of Tomato and Italian Squash feel a bit extraneous. I love tart dishes, but this turned out to be one of the least favorite dishes for my guests.

One of my all-time favorite dishes in Japanese cuisine is Buta no Kakuni, so I'm eager to see how Chef Kojima's version turns out. It's interesting that in Japanese, it's listed simply as Buta no Kakuni, but on the English menu they proclaim it to be Braised Pork Nagasaki-style.

My first bite yields a wonderful, fresh, ultra-tender, succulent piece of slow braised Pork. (^_^) It's a touch too sweet for my tastes, but not cloyingly so. It doesn't surpass Tomo-san's wonderful Buta no Kakuni at Izakaya Bincho, but it's still one of the best Buta no Kakuni offerings in So Cal. :)

Continuing on is their Unagi Maki (Egg Omelet with Eel).

The Eggs are bright and fluffy, with a very cloud-like texture (excellent!), but sadly, the amount of Unagi (Freshwater Eel) used is very precious. None of us could really taste any Unagi unless we picked out the tiny amount.

So far, the plates have been generally well-executed and surprising, but the next dish represents what happens when a kitchen is too ambitious: Negima (Chicken Thigh and Green Onion Skewers) from their Yakitori menu.

It's unfortunately not uncommon in So Cal to see various Izakaya or Kappo restaurants attempt to serve a full menu of Yakitori items, but they've generally fallen well-short of adequate, let alone good (it's like going to an Al Pastor Taco specialist and expecting their Ceviche to be great).

The Chicken turns out to be a disaster: Super overcooked, dried out chunks of Chicken (dark meat, no less), and completely burnt Negima (Green Onions) result in the worst Yakitori I've had in years in So Cal. (>_<) But it's not fair to expect a small plates kitchen to be Yakitori grill masters, so I'm not too surprised. Looking at the variety of Yakitori arriving at neighboring tables, we hold off on ordering any more from this sub-menu. With outstanding Yakitori from masters like Nabe-san at Yakitori Yakyudori (when he's there), or Tomo-san from Yakitori Bincho or Masa-san from Torihei, there's no reason to seek out this sub-par offering at Okan.

The next dish does little to break the streak: Tori no Karaage Negipiri So-su (Seasoned Deep Fried Chicken with Spicy Soy Sauce).

Unlike the Yakitori skewers, it's not "bad," but it's decent at best. The outer crust tastes fresh (no recycled oil here), but the frying skills need to improve: The Chicken is semi-dried out and dense and muted. It's a step above the average Izakaya in L.A. / O.C., but when you get heavenly Karaage from Bincho and Torihei, it makes it hard to appreciate this version.

It's probably coincidence, but the streak continues with their Agedashi Tofu (Deep Fried Tofu with Tempura Sauce).

It's surprisingly salty, and there's too much Katakuriko (Potato Starch) for the exterior. It sadly is also very soggy. With some extra Steamed Rice or a drink, the sodium levels are balanced out, but on its own, this is another dish where I've been utterly spoiled by legendary Agedashi Tofu (not counting Japan) from Chef Tomo at Izakaya Bincho.

Things rebound nicely with one of their daily specials: Buri Kama Tofu (Braised Yellowtail Cheek with Tofu).

I always enjoy a great Kama preparation and Okan's version is excellent! The Buri is tender and not overcooked at all. It's vibrant, delicate and the pairing with the Tofu and their proprietary braising sauce is perfect. :)

Looking over their menu, I remember being mesmerized by so many interesting (and rarer) dishes that don't appear as often on local menus. One of the dishes is their Aburi Gyu Tan Chashu (Roasted Beef Tongue).

Thick slices of Roasted Beef Tongue arrive, like a Beef Lover's version of the ideal Chashu slices for a bowl of Ramen (^_~). While the lukewarm temperature is off-putting at first, the freshness and tenderness win me over. There's an enchanting light smokiness, along with an even hand on the spices. Delicious! :)

We finish off the evening with another rare offering: Kamameshi (referred to by some as "Japanese Paella", it's a type of Rice dish cooked in a Kama cooking pot, mixed with other ingredients). Today's Special Kamameshi turns out to be Gokokumai no Kamameshi (Flavored Rice with Chicken and Mushrooms cooked in a "Kama" Kettle).

(Note that they make this dish to order, from scratch, so expect a good ~25 - 35 minutes before it arrives.) Once the Kamameshi arrives, it smells incredible. :) Fragrant chunks of Chicken mixed with Shimeji Mushrooms are cooked together with 5 different grains of Rice.

The Rice turns out to be a bit bland for my tastes, but still fragrant and a good way to end a meal (and I have a light palate). In So Cal, I prefer the offerings at Kappo Hana more, but if I'm down in the area, I'll be glad to order Okan's version. :)

Service is the one area where Okan needs the most improvement in. It's not that any of the servers are "bad," but it's that they don't have enough help. To be fair, we were dining at Okan when it was at 100% capacity, but it was really tiring trying to get refills (or more drinks of any kind) from any of the waitstaff. We'd have to ask 2-4 times, each time, to get anything. But they were all very friendly and hardworking; just overwhelmed. There were no busboys in the dining room, so the waitresses were busing the tables as well as handling all the food and drink orders. It should be noted, the manager was super accommodating and really welcoming. She made every one of my guests and me (and it seemed every table) feel welcome, and she thanked us as we were leaving.

Prices range from $2.75 - $24, with most dishes in the $6 - 7 range. We averaged ~$36 per person, including tax and tip.

Okan is a wonderful hidden gem in San Diego. Tucked away in a literal corner, Chef Kojima and staff deliver an ambitious menu, full of surprises and rare offerings, along with an extensive, rotating daily specials / seasonal menu. While their massive menu leads to some disappointments (Yakitori skewers, Karaage, Agedashi Tofu), their Braising skills are beyond reproach, with some great dishes in just about every other facet, from their Renkon (Lotus Root) to Zanmai Ni (Simmered Japanese Royal Fern) to the Buta no Kakuni (Braised Pork Belly) and more. It may get a bit too cozy at times (their tables are too close together), but I'm glad to have a humble, intimate restaurant with great small plates in the area. It's a perfect excuse for me to visit my SD friends more often. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)

Wa Dining OKAN
3860 Convoy St., #110
San Diego, CA 92111
Tel: (858) 279-0941

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. (last order 2:00 p.m.)
[Dinner] Mon - Wed, 5:30 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. (last order 10:30 p.m.)
Thurs - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight (last order 11:30 p.m.)
Sun, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. (last order 9:30 p.m.)

http://www.okanus.com

Food Fight! (or, An Exploration of Specific Foods)

2010-07-29T15:40:00.000-07:00

This is a running post, collecting the links to various, random food explorations I've participated in over the years. They might be called "Food Fights" or "Throwdowns," but essentially they're fun little side trips, exploring some facet of food, or a specific dish. (^_~)

Enjoy!

The Super Stews of Super Cocina

2010-07-29T12:08:00.000-07:00

Stews hold a special place in my heart. They embodies so many of the things I love from the world of food: Slow-cooked, long-simmered meats and vegetables combining together after many hours to form something inimitable via any other method of cooking. It's a giant, soul-warming pot of goodness, of patience and love. :) So when I hear kare_raisu wax poetic about a Guisados specialist serving a rotating menu of regional Mexican Stews, I have no choice but to pay Super Cocina a visit. (^_~)

From the exterior, Super Cocina looks just like another nondescript, hole-in-the-wall eatery that may or may not yield great food. Stepping inside, and you're treated to a steam table featuring that *moment's* selection of Guisados (Mexican Stews). According to Owner Fernando Sanchez, their selection of Guisados can change multiple times a day, based on a variety of recipes handed down from their family and relatives and friends, representing multiple regions of Mexico.

It may not look very stylish, but then again most Stews have never looked very sexy. I can't wait to order and see how the flavors turn out.

Jotaru and another friend join me on this expedition today. We begin with their Pork Carnitas (Slow-Roasted Pork).

I realize this is a Guisados specialist, but one of my "must order" items whenever I see it on a menu is Carnitas. :) The Carnitas taste fresh, but extremely salty and one note. After having been spoiled on the amazing Carnitas of Metro Balderas, it's hard to appreciate most local offerings these days. :)

The first of our Guisados arrive at this point: Chicharron en Chile Verde (Fried Pork Rinds in Green Chili Stew).

While I love the texture of Deep Fried Pork Rinds, having them soak up the flavors of this slow cooked Chile Verde is amazing: The slight piquancy from the Tomatillo are balanced by the fragrant Cilantro and Garlic notes and an even burn from the Serrano Chilies. There's a lush quality about the Chicharrones and I can't get enough of this Stew. It's better than any Chile Verde-type flavoring I've had around So Cal. Wonderful. :)

Next up is their Puerco en Chile Colorado (Stewed Pork in a Red Chili Stew).

While the name may sound familiar, unlike many of the thin, watery "Chile Colorado" sauces you find around town, Super Cocina's version tastes like the product of slow-cooked love, for many hours. :) The chunks of Pork are tender and fresh (made that day), with a subtle nutty sweetness and a hotter burn (than the Chile Verde) from the Guajillo Chilies and Almonds. This is probably our favorite dish of the day. Delicious! (^_^)

The next two dishes are even more interesting. We start with their Camarones y Nopalitos en Chile Rojo (Shrimp and Prickly Pear Paddles in a Red Chili Stew).

The Camarones turn out to be freshly pounded Shrimp Cakes stewed for hours to take on a very soft, delicate texture. The Paddles of the Prickly Pear Cactus complements the mouthfeel of the Shrimp Cakes with an equally soft, meaty quality. There's a strong pungent brininess (but not off-putting) to the whole dish which may not be for everyone, but I found it to be enjoyable.

Their Pollo en Mole Poblano (Chicken in Pueblan Mole (pronounced "Moh-Leh")) is on the sweeter side for Moles.

There's a real, genuine depth to their Mole: Using 4 kinds of Chilies, including Pasilla, Ancho, Poblano, along with Sesame Seeds, Peanuts and Chocolate, it carries a constant, subtle heat and noticeable sweetness.

One dish that the Sanchez family strongly recommends is their Pescado en Papilado (Steamed Tilapia in Cilantro Sauce).

Tilapia usually tastes pretty muddy, but Super Cocina's version is a delight: Bathed in a gorgeous translucent Green Sauce (from the Cilantro), the Tilapia is bright and aromatic, with a touch of tartness.

But their Puerco Con Espinacas (Pork Stewed with Spinach) might very well be the highlight of the meal.

The chunks of Pork Rib meat are meltingly tender, and have a wonderful slow-cooked flavor. It tastes like it's been stewed for hours, and the Spinach has soaked up all the flavors of this Red Stew, along with the clear accents from the Guajillo Chile base. It's savory and balanced and awesome. :)

Our final dish is the one I'm most intrigued about: Pollo en Acuyo (Chicken Stew with Mexican Pepperleaf (or Sacred Pepper)).

Senor Sanchez shows us an Acuyo Leaf and explains that they've been using this herb in many of their Oaxacan family recipes for years.

The first sip reveals an herbaceous salty quality. It's a subtle fragrance that's less dominant than, say, Rosemary, and it's like nothing I've had before. The chunks of tender Chicken are well-integrated with the rest of the Stew and it's a great pairing with Rice. :)

Service is pretty straightforward: You order at the counter and choose which Guisados or other dishes you'd like. Note that they're happy to offer free samples of any of the Stews they have on display. Prices range from $3.99 for a Small Bowl of a Stew, to $5.99 for a Large. Or you can order a Guisados Combination (2 Items with Beans and Rice) for $7.69.

Super Cocina is an outstanding Guisados specialist, delivering a variety of hearty, down-to-earth, humble Stews representing multiple regions of Mexico. While there are some misses on the menu (their Carnitas are one-note salt bombs, their brute-force briny Camarones y Nopalitos might not be for everyone), there are far more winners to celebrate, including their mouth-watering Puerco Con Espinacas (Pork and Spinach Stew), Pollo en Acuyo (Chicken Stew with Mexican Pepperleaf), and Puerco en Chile Colorado (Pork in Red Chile Stew). As I'm leaving, I look into their open kitchen and see members of the Sanchez family slowly stirring a large soup pot and adding in some herbs and stirring some more. I feel like I've just dined at Grandma's house with some simple, but smile-inducing, family-style dishes. Recommended. :)

Rating: 8.0 (out of 10.0)

Super Cocina
3627 University Ave.
San Diego, CA 92104
Tel: (619) 584-6244

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 8:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m.

Focus. Dedication. Greatness (In The Making). The Delicious Ramen Noodles of Ramen Mottainai

2010-07-16T15:09:00.000-07:00

"Living the dream."

In a region where millions struggle to attain their aspirations, it's always amazing to hear when people achieve their dreams. And for those of us that love to eat, it's even more cause for celebration when some of those dreams realized are from dedicated, talented Chefs who want nothing more than to cook great food and call Southern California "home": In the past few years alone, we've been blessed with not one, but two Yakitori masters, a wonderful Oden expert, and a legend in the Ramen world in Japan, amongst many others. And now, we're seeing the realization of another dream, already bearing fruit in the form of 3 distinctive, excellent types of Ramen at Ramen Mottainai.

Thanks to the excellent review from our Ramen guru, Rameniac, I wrangled one of my Ramen Hounds and dashed off to Mottainai. :) Mottainai is helmed by Chef Tadanori Akasaka and General Manager Nobuaki Ishiai. Self-professed Ramen devotees, they both came to the same conclusion years ago when they first visited Southern California: It's a great place they hoped one day to move to, and open up a Ramen shop dedicated to delivering fresh, handmade Ramen Noodles and Soup to match the level of excellence in Japan.

Mottainai occupies a nondescript corner of the Marukai Market plaza (there's no sign installed yet, so be on the lookout for their Noren until then). Upon entering, we're greeted warmly by the waitstaff. They have a simple, handsome Ramen counter (able to seat up to 10 people) with a few tables on the side.

Looking at their menu, they focus on 3 very distinctive styles of Ramen (which may seem sparse to some, but in reality it's a challenge for most Ramen masters to perfect), with a variety of toppings and a couple side dishes. I was a bit worried at first, until I realized that this was a reflection of Tadanori-san's growth and experience as a Ramen Chef: Tadanori-san was born in Sapporo, Japan, birthplace of the legendary Sapporo Miso-style Ramen Noodle Soup. Learning and cooking Ramen since he was 15 years old(!), he later moved to Tokyo to continue growing, hence the "Tokyo Props" Shoyu Ramen on the menu. And finally, he moved to Yokohama where he learned and developed his own version of their famous Ie-kei Ramen, represented on the menu as "Yokohama Freaker" Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen. :)

You're even treated to a cute fable (created by the staff) to explain the concept of "Mottainai" (which roughly means ~"what a waste" / "such a shame [something's] wasted"). For Tadanori-san, he calls the restaurant this because the basis of his Ramen Soups are what many people take for granted and throw away: Chicken and Pork Bones.

Starting at the top, I begin with their "Tokyo Props" Shoyu Ramen (Soy Sauce-Based Ramen Noodle Soup).

I take a sip: Light, balanced, delicate Shoyu (Soy Sauce) flavors intermingle with their homemade Broth of Torigara (Chicken Bones), Niboshi (Baby Sardines) and Saba (Mackerel). It may not topple Tokyo's best, but it's now my favorite Shoyu Ramen in Southern California. (^_^)

(Note: Tadanori-san does *not* add MSG to any of his offerings (yay! :). There may be trace amounts in the Soy Sauce used, but nothing outside of that.)

The Noodles are where the dream is currently stalled at: Mottainai is using outsourced Noodles (as do pretty much all the big Ramen shops in So Cal), but only until they get the permits and clearance for their very own Noodle-making equipment (currently being processed). They hope to get clearance by September.

But even with outsourced Noodles, Chef Tadanori has chosen an excellent, thin, straight Noodle with a nice chew, which matches his Tokyo-style Shoyu Ramen quite well.

Their Chashu (Roasted Pork Slices) taste fresh (another victory for So Cal Ramen where the majority of places make huge batches to last throughout the week) and meaty. While it is bright, the problem is that they are a touch too chewy at times (needing another hour or two of slow-roasting to soften the Pork a bit more).

And their Menma (Bamboo Shoots) are on the sweet side (which I prefer), with a lot less pungency than most offerings.

Our order of Gyoza (Pan Fried-Steamed Dumplings) arrive next.

Their Gyoza are handmade and have a great crust: Very delicate with a thin crunch. The filling is a bit too finely shredded for my tastes, but as a classic accompaniment with Ramen, this is quite satisfying. :)

Next up is Tadanori-san's representation of his time in Yokohama: "Yokohama Freaker" Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen (Pork Bone and Soy Sauce-Based Ramen Noodle Soup).

Santouka fans should be aware that this is not the same Asahikawa-style of Ramen like Santouka's similarly named dish. This is unabashedly Ie-kei style of Ramen, reflective of Tadanori-san's interpretation of the creation by Yoshimura-ya in Yokohama.

I'm not a fan of Ie-kei style in general, but I'm impressed by Tadanori-san's execution: It's a milder version of what you might expect from a pure Tonkotsu (Pork Bone) Broth, but it still retains a distinct porcine funkiness, balanced by the Shoyu. There's also the signature Chiyu (Chicken Oil) which takes this bowl to another plane, different from the more commonly found Tonkotsu Shoyu blends locally.

Finally, Tadanori-san pairs this Tonkotsu Shoyu with a thicker Noodle, closer to Udon than the usual Ramen Noodles you might expect.

Perhaps the funnest items on the menu are their Majikku Bomu ("Magic Bombs"), which are little side dishes you can order to enhance your Ramen Noodle experience. Their Red Bomb is a house-made Chili Paste Blend.

When paired with their straight Shoyu (Soy Sauce) Ramen, it doesn't really add too much except a mild heat. It feels like it clashes a little, but Chili Heads would probably love adding this to all flavors. (^_~)

But when paired with their Yokohama Freaker Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen, it adds just the right level of burn that really complements each slurp. You get a bit of the porkiness that just feels right with some heat. :)

But if there's only one Magic Bomb you can try, then go for their Shiro (White Bomb), a globe of Pork Back Fat and Garlic! :)

Adding this to the pure Shoyu Ramen is pure magic! There's this sexy, lip-smacking facet with fragrant undertones of Garlic that elevate the Shoyu Ramen to new heights! Wow. (^_^) And it's not as overwhelming as, say, Daikokuya or Asa's Kotteri option where your bowl is covered in a sea of Pork Fatback. (^_~)

I try some with their Ie-kei Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen and it's decent, but I think the amount of Chiyu and inherent porkiness makes this addition less of a standout.

But it's the last Ramen dish that I'm most excited about: "Sapporo Lover" Miso Ramen (Miso-Based Ramen Noodle Soup).

Finding a great Sapporo-style Miso Ramen in L.A. has been non-existent for a while, so I'm eager to see how Tadanori-san's version turns out. I'm excited to see Tadanori-san prepare this dish: It's actually a Kogashi Miso style (Burnt / Wok-Fired) to add a different flavor profile.

And to really make sure I get the full Sapporo experience, I order it with their "Type 1 Magic Alpha" Bomb option: Morokoshi Bata- (Stir Fried Corn and Butter). :)

The first sip is outstanding! :) Tadanori-san spent years perfecting a blend of 4 types of Miso for his Miso Ramen and it shows. It's surprisingly balanced and nuanced, with different aspects of the 4 types of Miso hitting your palate, but never overpowering your senses. The Marinated Ground Pork, Moyashi (Bean Sprouts) and Corn all work well together. The Butter is subtle and adds this luxurious quality, but it's very well integrated, without you feeling like it's an extraneous addition. While I still prefer the legendary Sumire's Miso Ramen, this is an excellent offering and the best Miso Ramen in So Cal. :)

They use the same thicker Noodle option as their Tonkotsu Shoyu, which are a decent match, but I'm waiting to see what they can do once they get their equipment cleared.

Their Tamago (Egg) option is not quite the heavenly level of the great Hanjyuku Tamago (Flash Boiled Egg) offerings throughout Japan, but it'll suffice. Hopefully in the coming months, they can perfect this.

For $1.50 more, you can add a Mini Salad and Onigiri Set to any of the Ramen.

The Mini Salad is fine (a standard Mixed Greens Side Salad), but it's their Shio Onigiri (Rice Ball with Salt) that's really natsukashii (nostalgic) for me. :) For those that didn't grow up eating plain Onigiri, it should be noted that this is what it looks like it is: Steamed Rice, seasoned with a bit of Salt and pressed into a ball-like shape with some Nori (Seaweed). This is the plain variety and it's a bit spartan and boring compared to the fancier versions seen locally (like Yaki Onigiri (Grilled), or with Sake (Salmon), etc.). But it's a decent Onigiri that fills a craving if you're in the mood for this traditional offering. :)

Service has been excellent (despite it being only open for a week or two). In each of my visits, the waitstaff has been friendly and prompt. Prices range from $6.95 - $7.80 for Ramen, with Toppings ranging from $1 - $2. Side dishes range from $1.95 - $4.95.

Ramen Mottainai has made a brilliant splash on the Southern California Ramen landscape. With a delicate "Tokyo Props" Shoyu (Soy Sauce) Ramen, a very respectable "Yokohama Freakers" Tonkotsu Shoyu (Pork Bone, Soy Sauce) Ramen in the underrepresented Ie-kei style, and the vibrant, balanced "Sapporo Lover" Miso Ramen, Mottainai has a menu that already tops most Ramen offerings locally. Be sure to add the appropriate "Magic Bomb" to elevate your Ramen even further, and sit back and enjoy. :) While their Noodles and Chashu can use some work, I can't even imagine what Autumn is going to be like, when they get clearance for their Noodle-making equipment. Imagine the first top-class So Cal Ramen-ya with Teuchi (Handmade) Ramen Noodles, made fresh every morning! I can't wait! (^_^)

Rating: 8.1 (out of 10.0)

Ramen Mottainai
1630 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., Suite 9
Gardena, CA 90247
Tel: (310) 538-3233

(Note: They had a misprint with their Business Cards so most posts out there mistakenly list their Fax # as their Telephone #. Correct Phone Number is listed here.)

Hours: [Lunch] Wed - Mon, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Wed - Mon, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesdays.

The Fragrant, Numbing, Tantalizing Spices of New Chong Qing

2010-07-06T16:59:00.000-07:00

With the surprising decline in quantity and quality of Szechuan restaurants around So Cal, I'm always on the lookout for new eateries that can deliver the delicious dishes of that region. So when I hear ipsedixit rave about a new restaurant that delivers some great Spicy Cold Noodles, I hold out hope that the rest of their menu is just as good. :)

New Chong Qing (Chinese name, "Shwei Zhu Yu Yi Hao") bills themselves as Chongqing Cuisine, but they represent the region's Szechuan dishes quite well. Buried in the far corner of a strip mall on San Gabriel Boulevard, it's easy to miss this restaurant, but it's easy enough to find once you follow the delightful smell of Szechuan Peppercorns and Chilies wafting through the parking lot. :) The interior decor is rather spartan and there seems to be an ever-present cloud of aromatic spices hanging inside the restaurant, which only helps build anticipation as you peruse the menu.

(Note: All Chinese dish names are spelled phonetically when possible to help with pronunciation. Thanks to my SGV Hounds for translational help. :)

One's first visit should probably begin with their eponymous dish (in Chinese), Ma La Shwei Zhu Yu (House Special Fish), a roiling pot of saturated red liquid that looks as frightening as it smells delicious. :)

Their House Special Fish has an interesting setup: You order a "base" and then add plates of meats or vegetables as you see fit, like the usual Hot Pot restaurants. We opted for their Lohng Li Yu Pian (listed simply as "Fish" in English, Grey Sole Filets) and a side of Tofu.

They also bring out a small dipping bowl with Fried Soybeans, Cilantro, Garlic, Pickled Mustard Greens and Sesame Oil. The server takes a little bit of the extremely red Chili liquid from the soup pot and pours a bit into the dipping bowl, creating a delicious concoction to dip the various meats and vegetables you take from the Hot Pot.

While the aroma is already tantalizing, the actual taste is even better: Slightly floral from the Szechuan Peppercorns, with an immediate burn from the Dried Red Chilies and Chili Oil, and accentuated by the numbing Peppercorns and actual temperature of the boiling Broth. Those allergic to MSG should take note that they use the flavor crystals in this Broth, but it's thankfully pretty minor (I only suffered a slight reaction compared to more notorious places). Otherwise, this is one of the better Shwei Zhu Yu (Water Boiled Fish) dishes in the San Gabriel Valley. :)

Another surprise is their Fen Zhen Wu Hua Rou (Pork with Rice Powder).

Chunks of fatty Pork Belly are coated with glutinous Rice and steamed in Bamboo. The result is a slightly fatty, but firm piece of Pork with a thin, clean Spicy kick, and coated with a sticky, moist Rice exterior. It sounds strange, but it's quite delicious. :)

Offal fans can revel in their Gahn Yao Huh Tsao (Fried Pig Kidney and Waist).

It's a surprisingly light saute of Pork Liver and Kidney, laced with the seemingly ubiquitous Szechuan Peppercorns and Bell Peppers. The Liver and Kidney are cooked just through, still moist and tender, with the Liver exhibiting the (in)famous mineral-y, iron-y flavor that you either love or hate. :)

For a non-Soup type of incendiary creation, one should consider the Chong Qing La Zi Ji (Fried Spicy Chicken).

Here, deep fried chunks of Chicken are tossed together with an imposing amount of Dried Red Chilies and Szechuan Peppercorns to create a visually stunning dish. The first thought to enter your mind might very well be, "Did the chef make a mistake and spill his entire container of Chilies into the wok??" :) There are more Chilies and Peppercorns here than actual Chicken, but it only adds to the final flavor profile of the dish: The Fried Chicken pieces are sweet and very spicy, but not very salty at all. The heavy amount of Szechuan Peppercorns imbues every bite with a powerful floral flavor (in a good way) which adds to the pleasure of eating this dish, despite the heat level kicking your butt along the way. (^_~)

We get a slight reprieve from the spices with their Hsiao Tsao Yahng Rou (Special Stir Fried Lamb).

This is a masterful celebration of Lamb and Cilantro, with fresh, herbal strands of Cilantro running throughout the dish, really complementing the semi-fatty Lamb, which features more meat than fat (unlike too many places in the SGV where it's more fat and gristle than actual meat).

We had no room to try the highly recommended Spicy Cold Noodles, so I had no option but to return for another visit. (^_~)

The smallish bowl of their Di Tan Liang Mian (Spicy Cold Noodles) may seem paltry at first, but considering its price ($3.99) it's a perfect little appetizer or side dish that you can share with your guests.

Taking a bite, there's an explosion of Garlic, nutty Sesame Seeds and Fried Soy Beans, then transitioning into the aromatic flavors of Green Onions. It's sweet and spicy and chilled to give this strange sine wave of emotion that just brings a smile to your face. :) The one downside is the quality of their Noodles. They're overcooked, resulting in a slightly mushy texture (it's been the same the ~3 times we've ordered), but the dish is still enjoyable despite that hiccup.

My guest is craving their House Special Fish, but this time we decide to order it with their Live Fish which is Tilapia.

Sadly, the Live Tilapia is downright horrible: Every piece of the Tilapia tastes like dirt and mud, which nearly ruins this Hot Pot. It's sad when the frozen Grey Sole Filets are infinitely tastier than chunks of Live Tilapia. Definitely avoid the Tilapia at all costs. :(

In an effort to save this dish, and to enjoy the Hot Pot customization options, we order a variety of sides to slow cook in this Broth, making a pleasurable meal out of a bad piece of Fish. We start with Doh Ya (Bean Sprouts) and Yahng Rou (Lamb Slices).

Both are of excellent quality, which makes the choice of serving the horrific Tilapia even more puzzling. With their spicy Szechuan Peppercorn Broth, it really transforms the plain Lamb Slices into a delicious, Chili-soaked creation, perfect with some Steamed Rice. :)

We also add a side of Napa Cabbage and Lotus Root.

The crimson liquid elevates these simple, plain ingredients, with the Napa Cabbage really absorbing the maddeningly delectable Broth. :)

One of the most hilarious titles to grace a menu might have to be the "Secret Service Rice" portion of the menu. :) And right along with the oddly named section is the humorous Wu Di Fei Nio Gai Wahn Fahn ("Fat Beef Rice"). :)

But don't let the cheesy name fool you: This might very well be one of the best Chinese Beef Bowls in Southern California. Generous amounts of slightly fatty Beef are wok-fried with Bean Sprouts, Jalapeno Chilies, Red Dried Chilies with a very mild Soy Sauce-based Sauce, resulting in a savory and sweet, balanced bowl of goodness! :) Excellent.

Probably the most disappointing dish on the menu arrives next: Hsiang La Yahng Pai (Special Lamb Chop).

At first glance, it looks impressively red and spicy, like their Spicy Fried Chicken. That's where the similarities end: This is essentially Fried Lamb *Bones*. (>_<) I'm not sure what the cultural reasoning is, but this marks the 6th restaurant in the SGV that I've run across that serves the Bones and *Scraps* of an animal, instead of the actual meat. I've seen it with a slew of Hunan restaurants with their "Chicken" dishes, which are no more than Chicken Bones, with little bits of meat leftover (they're using the bones from deboned Chickens). And now, here with the "Lamb Chops": These are basically the Lamb Bones after the Lamb meat is removed. :( I don't need a lot of meat, but having *some* Lamb in a "Lamb Chop" dish isn't too much to ask for. You end up eating the Connective Tissue and Gristle of the leftover Lamb Bone scraps and it's just not appetizing, nor tasty. What's even worse is that this is one of the most expensive items on the menu at $9.99, and they still only serve the Bones.

Things bounce back quickly with one of the most famous dishes of Szechuan: Ma Po Tofu .

This is simply excellent! :) Aromatic, hot and spicy, infused with a real savoriness from the Marinated Ground Pork, the Silken Tofu, Green Onions and controlled fire of their proprietary Chili Sauce makes this a front runner for best Chinese Ma Po Tofu in the area.

Helping to balance out the heat, are their variety of Seasonal Vegetables. We order their Da Do Miao (Large Pea Shoots) on this visit.

Perfectly wok-fried, the Large Pea Shoots are mild, fresh and have a slight amount of heat from the Red Chilies. They're a touch salty, however, but otherwise a good dish to balance out all the meat-centric items. :)

Their Yu Hsiang Qie Zi (Eggplant with Garlic Sauce) represents one of their heavier Vegetable dishes.

The Eggplant tastes sweet and garlicky, coated in Chili Oil. It only has a mild burn with each bite, granting reprieve from the usual spicy onslaught of the rest of the menu.

During my 6th visit, they introduce a new item that our waitress can't stop talking about, so we decide to order it: Pi Jio Ya (Beer-Cooked Duck).

I wasn't too sure what to expect, but thankfully this turns out to be one of the standouts on the menu. There are distinct notes of Hops from the Beer-infused Sauce, along with Bay Leaf and Szechuan Peppercorns. But it's the usage of various Fresh Chilies and Chili Oil that really adds a surprising level of heat to this dish. This dish has a solid medium-to-very spicy kick to it, which makes it that much more enticing and off-putting at the same time. :)

The usage of Ju Ruo (Konjac) is a surprise, and it's absorbed the flavors pretty well. The Duck itself is saturated with the Chili Sauce (a good thing), but it's pretty bony (not a lot of meat), unfortunately.

Over the course of my 6 visits, service has been as expected for a hole-in-the-wall in the San Gabriel Valley. You wave your hand to get the attention of any of the servers moving around the room. Prices range from $3 - $11.99 per dish, with us averaging about ~$18 per person (including tax and tip).

New Chong Qing marks the return of some solid Szechuan and Chong Qing cuisine to the area. While there are some dishes that you should avoid at all costs (the muddy, inedible Tilapia; Special Lamb Chop (essentially Bones)), there are quite a few dishes that are stellar, especially the fiery, red-hot Broth of their House Special Fish (if you aren't allergic to MSG). With the decline and/or closings of too many Szechuan places around town, it's nice to have a place where the majority of the menu is competent, if not very good when you're in the mood for some real spicy Chinese food. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)

New Chong Qing (Shwei Zhu Yu Yi Hao)
120 N. San Gabriel Blvd., Suite J
San Gabriel, CA 91775
Tel: (626) 309-0836

Hours: Mon - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 12:00 a.m. Midnight
Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.

A Diamond in the Rough - The Fantastic Croissant Maker Takes on Dinner Service - Bite Bar and Bakery

2010-06-27T16:46:00.000-07:00

In a matter of months, Bite Bar & Bakery has blossomed from a quiet soft opening with little fanfare, into one of the hottest topics on Chowhound. When soniabegonia first started a thread praising Bite Bar's Croissants, it immediately rose to the top of my "must try" list since those buttery, flaky crescent-shaped Pastries are one of my greatest guilty pleasures. :) I was excited to try it and before I knew it, even Chowhound luminaries like Servorg, bulavinaka, Dommy!, Mattapoisett in LA, noahbites, mollyomormon and many others hopped on the thread, adding to the growing enthusiasm over this new Bakery. And after finally settling in and getting their liquor license, Bite Bar & Bakery has just debuted their dinner service, emphasizing a Small Plates concept (true to their name :), with a short, focused Beer & Wine List.

Taking over the old Violet space, Bite Bar & Bakery is helmed by Chef Elizabeth Goel (who's been running a private catering company (Bite Catering Couture) prior to this, and a graduate of The French Culinary Institute (New York)). The space has been beautifully transformed into something warm and charming. Clean white walls with simple wood accents, cooking utensils and book shelves lined with a variety of cook books adorn a spacious but cozy dining room. During the day, the lighting scheme and large windows makes it a relaxing place to grab a Pastry and converse with friends. :) At night, with the new dinner service, the entire restaurant becomes a warm, charmingly lit place for Small Plates and Wine.

Even their Pastry counter is a reflection of this casual, relaxing attitude with simple, open wood tables displaying a variety of their fresh-baked goods, with a cute Cookie Jar section that shouldn't be missed. :)

During my 1st visit, I had to start with their homemade Croissant. :)

I feel the excitement begin to build as I take a bite:

Outstanding! (^_^)

The crisp outer layer crackles and gives way to this soft, airy interior. There's a gentle, buttery sweetness that permeates each bite; not too greasy, not too dry. I wear a perpetual smile for the rest of the day. :)

Since that first visit, I've gotten ~7-8 Croissants and thankfully they've been very consistent, except during my 2nd visit, when the Croissant was slightly burnt and dried out (pictured below). But the other 6-7 Croissants have been simply wonderful. :)

I'd have to say I enjoy Bite Bar & Bakery's Croissants more than the well-respected Amandine, but I prefer Anisette's Croissant with Normandy Butter just a tad more (but it's very close). But Bite wins in the convenience category, since it's outstanding and easier to pick up than Anisette on most days). :)

Bite Bar & Bakery serves a variety of Organic Teas (in silken sachets) from Shangri La. On this visit, I try their Organic Breakfast Tea.

Shangri La's take on the traditional English Breakfast Tea is quite fragrant, smooth and invigorating. :)

Another much-lauded item is their Lemon Bar on Shortbread Crust.

While not my favorite sweet, after hearing so many endorsements for Euro Pane's famous Lemon Bar and then for Bite's version, I had to give both of them a try for a taste test. :) Chef Goel's version at Bite Bar & Bakery is an explosion of intense lemony goodness! I thought Euro Pane's Lemon Bar was pretty intense, but Bite Bar's is even more concentrated, but also sweeter (so there's less of the slightly bitter citrus notes you get with Euro Pane's version). Both are very good, but the sweeter, more in-your-face lemony topping and light Shortbread Crust makes it my favorite of the two. :)

While I'm not the biggest Chocolate fan out there, their Pain Au Chocolat (Chocolate Croissant) is another excellent pastry.

Building upon the excellent foundation of Chef Goel's regular Croissant, it shouldn't surprise me that her Pain Au Chocolat is great as well. It features a similar crisp exterior and pillowy inside, and there's a nice thin ribbon of Chocolate running through the center and for a non-Chocolate lover, it's just the right amount to be enjoyable without turning it into a total dessert. :)

During one of my later visits, I remember hearing about their Naanwich (Chickpea Curry on an Open-Faced Homemade Naan with Cilantro, Tomato Salad & Mango) so we place an order for this interesting-sounding Sandwich.

I wouldn't say it's a Curry that would rival any of the top Curries in town, but it's a very flavorful dish, fragrant with exotic spices and a great balance of ingredients. The Homemade Naan is actually quite thick and soft, but a great complement to the Curried Chickpeas and Tomato Salad. Lastly, a note that those expecting a Sandwich should be warned that this is more like a fork and knife dish than a hand-held traditional Sandwich. I'm just happy that something this flavorful and tasty happens to be Vegetarian and healthy. (^_~)

Their Warm Spinach Salad (with Andouille Dressing, Goat Cheese, Creole Spiced Nuts and Homemade Duck Prosciutto) arrives next.

The Spinach is excellent. It's not often you can say that about this common vegetable, but there's a brightness that you don't normally get with many Spinach Salads around the city. The combination with Goat Cheese is very good and the Andouille Dressing has this porcine edge that gives this Salad some verve. :)

Unfortunately - and I can't believe I'm about to type this - there's just too much Homemade Duck Prosciutto. The Duck Prosciutto is intense and very salty, and in small quantities it's quite tasty, but there's too much of it in comparison to the Spinach, and it ends up overpowering the dish quickly. Perhaps keeping the same generous portion of Prosciutto and just adding more Spinach might do the trick. (^_~)

One of the more controversial sandwiches on the menu might very well be their Reuben Sandwich (Homemade Corned Beef and Sauerkraut on Rye with Thousand Island and Cheese).

Hearing Ciao Bob rave about this item made it a "must try" for me :), so I couldn't wait to order it. The first thing that struck me about this Sandwich (and most of their Lunch Sandwich offerings) is that they're served like Panini Sandwiches, pressed with that signature crinkle pattern. I don't mind Panini, but those expecting either traditional grilled Sandwiches or non-pressed Sandwiches should take note.

I'm not a big Reuben connoisseur, so it's nice to enjoy a new style of Reuben without getting a hulking, grease bomb of a Sandwich. :) The Homemade Corned Beef is quite tasty, having a milder taste than most hole-in-the-wall versions (which are far more salty). My only beef (no pun intended :p) with this Sandwich was that our Reuben came out with the Swiss Cheese unmelted (or barely melted), perhaps not enough heat in their Panini Press machine?

There's a really nice balance of flavors with a more manageable amount of Corned Beef (instead of exploding out of the Sandwich), some Thousand Island Dressing and a bit of Sauerkraut and the crisped Bread. If the Cheese was melted, I'd enjoy this Reuben a bit more, but overall I'd be happy to order it again. It's an excellent, healthier, alternative Reuben. Although I have to say, having just had Langer's Hot Corned Beef, Sauerkraut, Swiss Cheese, Grilled on their wonderful Rye Bread... it's a hard call to make. :)

Their side of Cajun Fries are adequate. Usually crispy with a hollow, airy center, on some visits they're unfortunately fried at the wrong temperature, soaking up too much oil.

Crab Sandwiches aren't too common in So Cal, so it's nice when you get a solid version with their Toasted Crab Sandwich (on Sourdough with Paprika Aioli and Watercress Salad).

The Crab is lightly briny, but still relatively fresh with a good balance of flavors. One of my guests is a big fan of all Crab dishes and she couldn't get enough of the Toasted Crab Sandwich. I thought it was enjoyable, but nothing amazing.

One of the strangest things about Bite Bar is the quality of their produce outside of their Salads. Their Salads have been consistently strong and vibrant, but the little "side" of greens served with their various Sandwiches have ranged from average to disappointing depending on the day. On this visit, we're served some less-than-good quality Watercress with much of it being comprised of the more unsightly spotted leaves that are usually thrown out (see pic below). On other visits, their little side of greens tastes dull.

Continuing on, their Asparagus Soup with Tuille is a wonderful surprise.

This is one soup where it tastes like they distilled down an entire bunch of Asparagus into a single bowl, sitting in front of you. It's intensely Asparagus, verdant, yet lightly creamy, and I can't stop sipping it. :)

One of my guests is a cookie fiend, so I'm powerless to stop her from ordering their homemade Lavender Shortbread Cookie and the Dark Chocolate Heaven Cookie with Pecan. :)

The Lavender Shortbread Cookie is light and crumbly, a touch dry, but exuding a pleasant Lavender aroma with each bite.

And while I'm not a Chocolate fiend, their Dark Chocolate Heaven Cookie with Pecan is mind-blowingly good! (^_^) It's so rich and intensely chocolaty, yet it's not too sweet. Probably one of the best Dark Chocolate Cookies I've had in recent memory.

We finish up with their Pecan Caramel Bar with Chocolate Ganache.

It's packed with Pecans, giving it a different nuttiness than the more commonly found Peanut or Almond sweets. In addition, the Pecans really help balance out the Caramel and Chocolate Ganache, making this one of the more enjoyable sweet creations on the menu.

On another visit, we begin with their Egg Souffle with Garlic.

It's slightly bready on the outside with a moist, soft center. There isn't really a strong Garlic note present, but the lightly dressed Tomato adds a nice sweet acidity to the Souffle.

For those that can't get enough of their Lemon Bars, their Lemon Olive Oil Cake might satisfy that craving and then completely steamroll you afterward. :)

The outside of this Lemon Olive Oil Cake is firm and Cookie-like, which then gives way to an oozing center of Lemon Custard. It's almost as citrusy as their Lemon Bar, but with ~2-3 times the amount of oozing Lemon goodness to enjoy. Overall, I enjoy their Lemon Bar more, only because the sugary frosting on top makes this Olive Oil Cake too sweet for my tastes, bordering on cloying.

The first savory dish arrives at this point, their Pulled Pork Sandwich (served on Focaccia Bread with Coleslaw).

Going through their menu of Sandwiches so far, the one unfortunate aspect that brings down some of their Sandwiches from time-to-time is their Bread. Bite Bar & Bakery does not bake their own Bread (they source it from an external vendor), and while some Sandwiches are fine, others are hampered by it, such as in their Pulled Pork Sandwich.

The Focaccia Bread is simply too dry and thick, and while it stands up to the very wet Pulled Pork, it also sucks out the moisture from your mouth as you're eating it. To make matters worse, the Pulled Pork itself is very sweet, and has the consistency of mush. :( The spicy tang undertones are appreciated but everything else is disappointing. With so much good 'Q around town, it makes it even harder to recommend this to anyone except out of convenience.

Things bounce back nicely with their Grilled Pressed Asparagus Sandwich (with Sundried Tomato Pesto and Havarti Cheese).

The Cheese is thankfully melted this time, and the balance of Grilled Asparagus with the mild, creamy, gooey, delicious Havarti Cheese and crunch of their Panini-pressed Bread makes this one of their better Sandwiches on the menu.

The BITE BLTA (with Fresh Tomato, Greens, Smoky Bacon, Avocado and Homemade Tarragon Aioli) shows up soon after.

This is, sadly, another disappointing Sandwich on the menu. The Focaccia is dry, but less dense than the one used for their Pulled Pork. The Tomatoes, Mixed Greens and Avocado are fine, but the real problem lies in the star of this dish: The Bacon. It's cold and soggy. :( To be fair, many places around town batch cook a bunch of Bacon and serve the pre-made Bacon in their BLTs as well, but with all the attention to detail and quality of most of their items, it's unfortunate that Bite's BLTA isn't served with fresh-cooked Bacon (made-to-order).

On a recent visit, I'm joined by my dear friend Jotaru for Bite Bar & Bakery's Grand Opening Dinner. As we enter the restaurant during the inaugural run of their Dinner service, we're warmly greeted by a gracious hostess who shows us to our table immediately.

Our server explains the menu concept (of Small Plates, meant for sharing), and we begin with their Bacon-Wrapped Dates Stuffed with Chorizo and Manchego Cheese.

This is probably one of the most deceiving plates on the new Dinner menu. While it may look bite-sized, it's a *substantial* mouthful. The Bacon is hot and crisped (a big plus :), but from there, the rest of the bite is just a long, chewy, very meaty experience in a slightly unpleasant way. At the center of the problem is the chunk of Chorizo. While a Date may seem like a simple, bite-sized thing to eat, the dry, chunky piece of Chorizo adds a density that brings down this dish. The Date itself is a big, meaty specimen during this evening's meal, and using a whole slice of thick-cut Bacon (as hot and crisped and tasty as it is by itself :) is just too much.

It seems like a more logical choice (given the refinement and daintiness of the rest of their menu) is to go with the more svelte cousin of this appetizer: Prosciutto-Wrapped Figs or some variation of that (when available).

Next up is their Napa-Style Artichoke Beignet with California Remoulade.

What arrives are tiny, deep fried, battered pieces of Artichoke that are fried at the wrong temperature, completely saturated with oil. The California Remoulade (with Shallots, Capers, Brandy and Lemon) is an OK pairing, but I'd be happy with just the Artichoke Beignets by themselves (if they were a little less greasy).

I can't resist a good Pate, so I have to order their Pate Tasting, featuring an exploration of 3 different proteins, all made in-house.

Going from right-to-left, we start with the Rabbit Rillette with Red Grape Marmalade.

As I use my knife to break into the mound of Rabbit Rillette, I notice it's surprisingly dense and very hard to break off a portion to spread on the Crostini. Rabbit is inherently a lean protein - and perhaps I've been spoiled by Palate's various Rillette preparations - but after having incredibly soft, smooth, spreadable Rillettes over the past few years, this dense, very tightly-packed Rabbit Rillette is a bit disappointing. The Rabbit itself tastes delicious once you work it onto the Toasted Bread, but be careful with the Red Grape Marmalade as it's extremely sweet.

But one thing that really ruins this dish (and the next one) is their Crostini. I realize that for a Grand Opening they want to ensure as easy a time for the kitchen as possible (if something can be prepped ahead of time, do it, to save time later). But for an establishment known for excellent baked goods, serving burnt, stale Crostinis is baffling. We were served 4 jars of Crostinis over the various courses this evening and they were all flat-out black-burnt (with some of the char scraped off, and they were all stale. (>_<) Very disappointing. The 2nd portion of the tasting is their Duck Mousse with Bacon Bits, Roasted Maui Gold Pineapple and Vanilla Compote.

I can't really taste any Bacon Bits as the Duck Mousse is very silky and smooth, tasting completely of Duck Offal. Unfortunately, the Maui Gold Pineapple and Vanilla Compote just doesn't work. While it's not as sweet as the Red Grape Marmalade, there's a *perceived* sweetness from the intensely tropical smell of Pineapple and the aroma of real Vanilla Bean extract, and both of those combine to overpower the Duck Mousse.

The third item is the Creamy Homemade Chicken Liver Pate with Fresh Spring Rhubarb Chutney.

It's certainly creamy (the complete opposite in texture to the Rabbit Rillette's density), but it's quite salty and screams of all things "Liver" (metallic, iron-y, pungent taste). It tastes more like "Pureed Raw Liver" than a usual Pate, due to its extreme taste. But, once paired with the Fresh Spring Rhubarb Chutney, this is the pairing that works the best of the trio, really mellowing out the flavors a bit. Overall, this Pate Tasting doesn't approach something out of Chef Florent Marneau's kitchen, or the surprisingly stunning homemade Pate from Chef Masataka Hirai, but I'm hopeful the kitchen will improve over time.

Continuing on, their "House Specialty" Piedmontese Steak Tartare (served with Quail Egg, Grilled Rustic Bread) arrives next.

A mini tower of Minced Beef is presented with the ingredients separated out, before being mixed tableside to finish off the Steak Tartare. Bite's version uses a combination of Anchovies, Capers, Cornichon, Horseradish and Cognac, with a Quail Egg, and the end result is a slightly too tart version of a respectable Steak Tartare. We're served the same, completely burnt, stale Crostini (Rustic Bread Slices) for this course and it really detracts from the overall enjoyment of the dish. :(

The Creole Crab Cakes arrive quickly after.

These are 3 small Crab Cakes made with Jumbo Lump Crab, topped with Chipotle Honey Corn Mashed Potatoes. It sounds delicious, but the Crab Cakes lack the crispy exterior that you'd hope for in a good Crab Cake, and the overall texture is a bit too mushy for my tastes.

The Garlic Herb Mashed Potatoes that it's served on has a wonderful Rosemary and herbal aroma, but is quite thick and dense. This isn't something I'd order again.

At this point, I'm getting worried about the menu, but then the Buttermilk Southern Fried Jidori Chicken (with Creamy Gouda Grits, Stewed Tomato and Okra) arrives.

The first bite is a series of emotions and feelings, from the slightly crunchy exterior yielding to completely juicy, succulent, mouth-watering Jidori Chicken that's pure and bright and simply delicious! (^_^) The Stewed Tomato and Okra adds a unique, light, vegetal sweetness to each bite of the Chicken that elevates it to a different plateau than what you might expect with Fried Chicken.

Fried Chicken purists should take note: This is definitely not a traditional "Fried Chicken." Those looking for the ultra-crunchy, crispy, traditional Fried Chicken won't find it here and may be disappointed. While I personally would like the crust to be a bit more crunchy, this is Chef Goel's alternate interpretation of Fried Chicken and it's my favorite item on their dinner menu. Excellent! :)

Bite's Signature Mini BBQ Bacon Western Kobe Cheeseburgers (with Niman Ranch Bacon and "Special Sauce") unfortunately can't match the greatness of the Jidori Fried Chicken.

While some dishes are quite ample in their portions (like the Fried Chicken), others feel quite dainty and too precious at times, like their Mini Cheeseburgers. These are smaller than most Sliders (really like a "single bite" version of a Cheeseburger).

It's a great concept, but like their Pulled Pork Sandwich, their outsourced Bread is the downfall of this dish. The Mini Burger Buns are very dry and dense, and really detract from the enjoyment of the 28-Day Dry Aged Beef Patty which is excellent. There's a real beefy, intense quality that's lovely and that's more enjoyable than most of the "big boys" for Burgers around town (like 8 oz, Lucky Devils, etc.). I applaud Chef Goel for using a 28-Day Dry Aged Beef; it really accentuates and concentrates the flavors to give you a true Beef flavor, but the Burger Bun drags this dish down, as does the "Special Sauce" which doesn't really accentuate or move the dish in any direction; it just tastes like a moisture component that was thrown in because it was needed more than anything.

The Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin (served on Market Greens with Pork Jus) is our final savory course of the evening.

This super-lean cut of Pork is tender considering how lean it is, but still quite dense and chunky at times. I think we're getting spoiled with the ubiquitous Pork Belly and various long-stewed Pork dishes around town (with meltingly tender chunks of Pork), so going back to a tightly-packed, dense, lean Pork Tenderloin that's semi-tender can feel underwhelming at times.

It is thankfully not too salty at all, with the necessary sodium coming from the Bacon-wrapped exterior and Bacon Bits on top. :) On this evening, the kitchen uses some Chinese Chives which is an unusual, refreshing pairing.

For dessert, we decide on the Chef's Choice Trio, featuring 3 of their excellent selections from the Dessert Menu.

I start with their Vanilla Bean Yoghurt Panna Cotta (with Balsamic Strawberies and Fresh Mint).

It's a little bit firmer than what I'm used to, but still very well made with beautiful notes of Vanilla and fresh, in-season Strawberries. It's delicate, and the least sweet (in a good way) dessert on the menu.

The Triple Berry Streusel Crostata (with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream) is next.

Chef Elizabeth's prowess really shines here with an excellent crust giving way to fresh, lightly sweet Berries and the Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Lovely. :)

And then we finish off with the most decadent, but stunning Warm Valrhona Molten Chocolate Cake.

The Cake is excellent, warmed through, featuring a molten core of this deep, slightly bitter, aromatic Chocolate. Wonderful. :)

Despite some hiccups on the menu (service was great), I can't wait to return for another Dinner. :)

On my 5th visit, the meal begins with their Deviled Eggs with Smoked Paprika.

These are an excellent starter, with a creamy, mustardy, Paprika-tinged filling.

Their Truffle Fries with Garlic Butter are even better than their Lunch-time Cajun Fries.

They're crispy on the outside with a slightly hollow center, and Chef Goel judiciously uses the Truffle Oil without overusing it, giving just the right amount of enhancement while letting the Garlic Butter do the rest. :) Delicious!

Probably the biggest surprise on their Dinner Menu would have to be their Salads. Normally the "boring" or overlooked section of a menu, Chef Elizabeth creates an absolute winner with the Edamame and Sugar Snap Salad (with Spicy Sriracha-Sesame Dressing). The Edamame and Sugar Snap Peas are just cooked through, maintaining a good firm texture while being slightly supple, and when served chilled with a little bit of heat from the Sriracha-Sesame Dressing, it makes for a rare, delightful Salad during this hot season. :)

And even more unusual and just as standout is Chef Goel's Summer Salad (Watermelon, Feta, Mint, Aged Balsamic, Arugula and Basil).

At first you might do a double-take when reading "Watermelon" and "Feta (Cheese)" :), but it works, brilliantly. The Watermelon chunks are chilled and refreshing by themselves, but then the sprinkling of Feta Cheese (a mild version) adds a slightly tangy, unusual component, which is then immediately brought to harmonize with the Aged Balsamic and Basil. The bits of Arugula, with its peppery spiciness, and finally, the always uplifting Mint, all combine to create this strange, but unique Salad that's invigorating and perfect for Summer. :)

Their House Mac 'n Cheese (with Crunchy Panko Topping) arrives next.

Mac 'n Cheese is a very personal thing: Some people love a Mac 'n Cheese that's loaded with Cheese that's hot and gooey; others prefer it creamy, with less Cheese; while others relish the gourmet improvements like Truffle or some kind of animal protein, etc.

Bite's version has a nice crunchy topping of Panko, while underneath is a more minimalistic type of Mac 'n Cheese: Not too cheesy or creamy. The Aged Cheddar gives it a nice funk and appeal, but I like my Mac 'n Cheese to be creamier with a little more Cheese.

I can't resist trying their Buttermilk Southern Fried Jidori Chicken one more time, and this time the outside crust is a bit softer and falls away from the Chicken too easily. It's still absolutely juicy and delicious overall, but it looks like they're still working out some kinks with the crust falling apart so easily. Still, quite delectable. :)

The final course is their Classic Grand Marnier Creme Brulee (served with Lavender Shortbread Wedges).

It's beautifully presented, but the caramel top isn't cooked hot enough to form a satisfying crunchy thin layer shell (there's a thin layer that's been caramelized, but only slightly). Besides that, the Custard within is delicious, creamy and silky, but it becomes saccharin very quickly. If it was just a little less sweet it'd be perfect. The Lavender Shortbread Wedges are expertly crafted, floral and a great complement to this dessert.

Service is a mixed bag at Bite Bar & Bakery. Over the course of my 5 visits, I've found that during Breakfast and Lunch, service is extremely slow at times. Everyone's nice and cordial, but even at only ~20 - 30% capacity, getting more Coffee or a refill of Hot Water for Tea is an exercise in patience. On one visit, after waiting around for 15+ minutes with no server that we could get attention from, it was faster for me to get up and go to the counter and wait for someone to acknowledge me to get a refill. Dishes also arrive surprisingly slowly. Whatever the inefficiencies may be, I can't imagine what it'd be like if the restaurant was running at ~80 - 100% capacity.

Dinner, on the other hand, despite it being a Grand Opening weekend was stellar. There were new servers present and everyone was attentive with plates cleared quickly, and any other needs met with equal alacrity. Bite Bar suffered none of the nightmares in service that plague many businesses during their initial opening phase. Prices range from $2.50 - $4.50 for Pastries; $4.95 - $13.25 for Sandwiches; and $3 - $12 for Dinner Small Plates. We averaged about ~$42 per person (including tax and tip) for Dinner.

Bite Bar & Bakery is currently at an interesting growth period: Already an accomplished Bakery with excellent Pastries for Breakfast and Brunch, its Lunch Sandwiches run the gamut from disappointing (Pulled Pork) to delicious (Naanwich, Grilled Pressed Asparagus, Reuben), while the new Dinner service and menu exhibits similar fluctuations. With its current Dinner Menu, if one can navigate away from the land mines (Artichoke Beignet, Bacon-Wrapped Dates, Crab Cakes, Pate Tasting) and stay with their winners (Jidori Fried Chicken, Salads and Truffle Fries), Bite becomes a good place to stop in for a quick bite if you're in the neighborhood.

As a Bakery, Bite is the purveyor of some of the best Croissants in So Cal, and thus, holds a special place in my heart for Breakfast. :) For their new Small Plates Dinner concept, I'm holding out hope that Chef Goel and company will continue to improve and develop the menu, bringing it to the same level of excellence as their Pastries. For now, I'll be happy to stop in for their surprising Summer Salad, Edamame and Sugar Snap Salad, Southern Fried Jidori Chicken, and maybe the Warm Valrhona Molten Chocolate Cake. (^_~)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)
(Rating for Pastries / Breakfast Only: 8.6 (out of 10.0))

Bite Bar and Bakery
3221 Pico Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90405
Tel: (424) 744-8658

Hours: Tues - Sun, 8:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Brunch] Sat - Sun, 8:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Fri - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Closed Mondays.

http://bitebar.com/