Exile Kiss: October 2010

At this point, there's not much more to be said about one of L.A.'s best institutions serving up some of the world's best Pastrami. Their Pastrami is so focused and delicious it's caused followers of New York's famous Katz's Deli to switch allegiances and moved famous writers to wax poetic about this succulent delight. :) But over the years, I started becoming cognizant of other words and letters filling up the menu at Langer's that didn't involve the word "Pastrami." :) Curious, I've been slowly exploring the rest of the menu to see if there is any life after Langer's famous Pastrami Sandwich.

The fact that Langer's has been around for over 63 years(!) (founded in 1947) is impressive enough, but add the fact that they're still packing in the crowds due to their Pastrami is even more awe-inspiring. Stepping inside really feels like entering a time warp to an era of days gone by, with some old (now charmingly quaint) decor and simple rows of booths running up and down the restaurant.

On one of my very first visits, we began with their #5 - Corned Beef and Swiss Cheese, Russian Style Dressing on Rye Bread.

The Corned Beef is delicate, tender and mild. Probably one of the best Corned Beef Sandwiches I've had in years. :) I wish the Swiss Cheese was melted, but it's a minor concern when the Beef is this tasty.

But the real highlight is their famous Hot Pastrami Sandwich. For my first time, I order it plain, and it's served in all its unadorned glory with Rye Bread.

I take a bite...

It's just SO good! (^_^)

If the Corned Beef is tender and juicy, their famous, much-lauded Hot Pastrami is even more moist and delicate and luscious. It's lightly salted and spiced; it's savory and satisfying on so many levels.

The only regret that entered my mind was how I had missed out on Langer's for so many years (despite growing up in So Cal, I never made it out to Langer's until a few years ago). :) This tender, Sugar-Cured Corned Beef that's then smoked for hours is perfectly complemented by the fantastic Rye Bread (made by Bea's Bakery, and finished in the ovens here at Langer's). It's a soft, pillowy Rye, fragrant and lightly tart, with a crunchy crust.

And contrasting their Plain Hot Pastrami, is their most popular item on the menu, #19 - Pastrami, Swiss Cheese and Cole Slaw, with Russian Style Dressing on Rye Bread.

You can tell a restaurant is excelling when it can spawn debates amongst the dedicated food lovers about which version of a dish (with the same base ingredients) is better. :) Their #19 is their lovely Hot Pastrami Sandwich, but with the addition of the Swiss Cheese and Russian Style Dressing and Coleslaw. It's got a sweet tang, the Pastrami is still so lush and satisfying, but for my tastes, it's a bit too complicated. I prefer the Plain Hot Pastrami, but I can see why some people love the #19 so much. :)

One of my guilty pleasures are Chili Fries, so I'm curious how Langer's version compares to the more (in)famous versions around town. :)

The French Fries at Langer's are that ubiquitous, crinkle cut Fry found at many places around town. It's crunchy, crisp and has a decent inside. The Chili itself is mild, slightly saltier than I'd prefer and ~OK at best.

With the lengthy discussion on Chowhound about finding good Corned Beef Hash, I had to give Langer's version a try as well.

Their Corned Beef Hash is well-crisped, nicely seasoned and tastes fresh. There's a real Beef taste, and the layering of the finely minced Corned Beef with Potato chunks interspersed makes this *almost* taste like the canned version of Corned Beef Hash that some Hounds are looking for, but the flavor is still a bit different. It's moist and fatty, and for a restaurant version, it's something I'd be happy to order again if I was in the mood. :)

On another visit, I had the pleasure of hanging out with my 'dachi Noah, from Man Bites World and some other fabulous guests. We began with a classic Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray Soda. :)

Light, refreshing and sweet, infused with Celery flavors, it's an excellent way to start the meal. :)

Continuing on, we try their Matzo Ball Soup.

Their Matzo Ball Soup tastes like a straightforward, basic Chicken Soup with a soft, tender style of Matzo Ball. It's fine, but it's nothing that would make me order it again.

And then the Hot Beef Tongue Sandwich arrives.

Lengua. Gyu Tan. Beef Tongue. I love a well-executed version of Beef Tongue whenever I can find it, and Langer's Beef Tongue Sandwich is surprisingly good! :) It's extremely soft and delicate, thinly sliced with a more round and distinctive bovine flavor than the Pastrami or Corned Beef. This is definitely a sandwich I wouldn't mind ordering again! :)

One of our guests is craving a Reuben-like Sandwich, so we order their #44 - Hot Pastrami, Sauerkraut and Nippy Cheese Grilled on Rye.

With a foundation as great as their fantastic Pastrami, it's hard to mess up anything that stems from that, and thankfully their #44 is just fine. :) The Sauerkraut imparts just the right amount of tartness, and the melted Nippy Cheese helps to tie it all together.

But probably the most shocking discovery of the day is their #27 - Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver Sandwich.

I am generally not a Liver fan, but I never thought I'd see the day when the words "stunning" and "Liver" were used by me in the same sentence. (^_~) The balance between the Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver is absurdly good! There's a real clean, focused flavor that shines through. I was bracing myself for the usual metallic, iron-y Liver taste, but instead the Chopped Egg's creaminess really provides the perfect foil for the Chopped Liver which exhibits none of the usual heavy, unpleasant flavors you usually associate with Liver. Definitely something worth trying outside of the Pastrami! :)

I'm pretty happy at this point, but then the Tuna Melt arrives.

As I'm about to take a bite, Noah's astute eye suddenly catches something, and he stops me. He gingerly picks up the Sandwich and then cracks it open. Like gazing upon The Ark in Raiders of the Lost Ark, we're awestruck by what my 'dachi has coined "the quadruple crispies." Langer's not only grills the outside of the Tuna Melt (as expected), but the also grill the *inside* of the Tuna Melt on both sides, so you get 4 layers of crispy crunch with each bite! Excellent! (^_^) Sure it's slightly greasy, but it's *so* good! :)

On a later visit, I begin with their Chicken Noodle Soup.

It has that classic Diner taste; a Chicken Soup made with Bouillon Cubes. There's no actual Chicken Meat in the Soup, and the Thin Noodles have turned to mush.

Their Chicken Rice Soup fairs about the same.

It has the same Bouillon Cube taste, with soft Rice floating around in the Soup. It's a touch more enjoyable than the Chicken Noodle, since the Rice grains still have some body left.

Their Knish continues the heartbreaking trend.

It's a thicker version, with a filling of solid Mashed Potatoes. Unfortunately the outer dough exterior is dryish and the filling is so dense that it makes for a hard time eating this, even when split amongst 4 people.

One of the most humorous things to come out of these visits is the attempt to order their Fish & Chips. Fish & Chips are a popular item amongst many people, and I'm always looking for a great version around town. But each time I've tried ordering the Fish & Chips at Langer's, I've gotten sage advice from the veteran servers. The first time, our seasoned waitress gave me the raised eyebrow "Trust me, you don't want to order this" look. :) The second time I tried ordering it with a different server, he politely and quietly warned me to order something else. (^_^)

Their 1/2 Roast Stuffed Chicken arrives next.

Surprisingly, the Chicken is stuffed underneath the skin (between the skin and the meat), instead of the usual center cavity stuffing. Sadly, the Chicken Skin is soggy, smothered in Gravy. The Bread Stuffing is fluffy and comforting, reminding one of Autumn, but the actual Chicken meat is less successful. The white meat is slightly dry (but parts are still moist), but tasting a bit old, like it was reheated. The dark meat fares a bit better but still tastes a bit dull.

Their Home Fries have a great crispiness while still being moist on the inside, with a great crunch to each bite.

Their Fried Chicken is next to arrive.

There's a super crackly crunchy exterior that's well-seasoned with Salt and Pepper and satisfying. :) But sadly, there's still a noticeable amount of subcutaneous Fat throughout each piece of Fried Chicken, as if the frying didn't melt enough of the Fat away, resulting in a slightly off-putting mouthfeel with each bite. Between the two cross-town institutions, I'd have to give the edge to Pann's for their Fried Chicken over Langer's.

Their Hot Brisket of Beef Sandwich is another item I've been curious about for a while.

It has a very light, clean beefy taste, less pronounced than their Corned Beef or Pastrami. Texturally, it's not as pleasing or amazing as the super-tender Pastrami, but it's also less salty and tastes healthier all around.

Their Smoked Whitefish is another interesting dish I've been eyeing for a while.

Their Whitefish (like their Lox) is outsourced, and there's an intense smokiness that's quite distinctive, and it's lightly briny with a delicate flakiness. But, the amount of sodium used just overpowers everything. Eating it with the Toasted Bagel, some Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Lettuce provided helps to alleviate some of the Salt-overload, but it's still a bit too salty.

We finish up with their Patty Melt on Rye Bread.

I order it medium, but sadly the Patty Melt arrives well-done. It's extremely juicy and fatty, and the melted, gooey Cheese and crunchy Rye with Grilled Onions helps to create a satisfying version of this dish. But after Servorg's excellent recommendation for Pann's Patty Melt, Langer's version falls a bit short. :)

Service is brisk and slow at times. Some servers seem to take their time, but others are on the spot, ready to help alleviate your needs. The fact that they're always at near-100% capacity doesn't help, but it's fine for what it is. :) Prices range from $3.95 - $23.95 for their Sandwiches, with most in the ~$12 - $14 range.

Langer's Delicatessen continues to bring in the crowds, even after 60+ years for a reason: Their Hot Pastrami is noteworthy and standout, being so mouth-wateringly good. :) In exploring the rest of their menu, and finding so many heartbreaking items (made even worse because each "miss" means I missed out on having their wonderful Pastrami again (^_~)), there are quite a few noteworthy things outside of their Pastrami. Their Corned Beef is very good; their Beef Tongue is quite tasty, and their Chopped Egg and Chopped Liver Sandwich and Tuna Melt are very pleasant surprises! Breakfast is enjoyable with their Corned Beef Hash and Home Fries as well. :) But at the end of the day, it's still all about their amazing Hot Pastrami Sandwich: Succulent, soul-satisfying and delicious in every way. :)

Rating: 8.2 (out of 10.0)

Langer's Delicatessen
704 S. Alvarado Street
Los Angeles, CA 90057
Tel: (213) 483-8050

Hours: Mon - Sat, 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays.

http://www.langersdeli.com/

The sizzle of searing meat. The fragrant waft of deliciousness as slabs of various cuts of Beef and Pork start to cook through. Enter any Korean (or Japanese) BBQ restaurant and you'll most likely be treated to a full-frontal wave of mouth-watering aroma as various cuts of meat are quickly cooking at each table's grill. And while Beef tends to be the most popular and prominently found star at most of these establishments, places like Don Dae Gam are seeking to celebrate The Other White Meat: Pork, in all its fatty, succulent glory. (^_^)

You can tell what Don Dae Gam specializes in, the moment you pull into the parking lot: You're greeted by a sign with a cute Pig mascot. I first heard about Don Dae Gam thanks to the intrepid research from some dedicated Hounds (including ipse :), but it was the fact that it was related to arguably the best Korean BBQ house in town - Park's BBQ - that really piqued my interest. Indeed, Don Dae Gam and Park's BBQ share the same owner, and the manager confirmed that they share the same meat supplier as well.

Stepping inside, and you can see a spaciously laid-out, airy environment. The owner completely renovated the space formerly occupied by a good Jajangmyeon specialist. And like Park's BBQ, Don Dae Gam prominently features its best items on page 1, with a similar layout, but more playful font, featuring 10 Pork specialty dishes and 6 Beef dishes. Be sure to consider one of their "Combo" deals, which is essentially the same price as ordering 2, 3, etc. of the same dishes individually, except that they throw in a free item from their Specialty Side Dishes menu, and a bottle of Soju.

If you're new to Korean BBQ, every table features their own personal grill, and you order a variety of meats to grill at the table yourself (although at nicer establishments, the servers will usually grill it for you as you watch).

A great perk is the inclusion of free Panchan (Small Side Dishes) that rotate daily, which can range from Stewed Potatoes, Fish Cakes, Marinated Seaweed, to the classic Kimchi.

During my 1st visit, my guest and I decide to start with their most popular and (according to our server) best dish on the menu: #1. Special Pork Neck Meat (pictured here with their Black Pork Belly).

There's some good marbling in the Pork Neck Meat, but the majority is still meat (compared to the Pork Belly, which has far more fat). The smell of the Pork Neck Meat as it sizzles is incredibly hunger-inducing. (^_~) And I take a bite...

There's this juicy, slightly fatty, insane unctuousness. :)

It's outstanding, and tastes great lightly dabbed in the Sesame Oil and Salt Dipping Sauce (along with some of their fresh Lettuce mix). Thankfully it's been consistently good, each time I've ordered it.

As we're finishing up the first item, our Mung Bean Pancake arrives.

Ostensibly, it looks just like its more popular cousin, Pajeon (a Flour-based Batter Korean Pancake), but this one is made with Mung Beans. There's a beautiful crisped edge (the bites closer to the crispy side are absolutely delicious), but it's a tad too thick, which means a slightly undercooked, liquidy, doughy center.

Their #5. Black Pork Belly cooks up next, after the grill frees up.

While they get their meat from the same supplier, I prefer Don Dae Gam's Black Pork Belly, over Park's current "Pork Belly" (what used to be their "Tokyo X Style Pork Belly"). It seems richer and brighter here. Either way, this Black Pork Belly is definitely the fattiest, most filling cut of Pork on the menu. It's good, but make sure you bring enough people to take down this giant slab of meat. :)

During a more recent visit, we're treated with more interesting Panchan dishes than my previous visits combined.

We start with their #2. Seasoned Pork Short Rib (shown with their Seasoned Black Pork Belly).

The Seasoned Pork Short Ribs, presented in a similar style to the classic Beef Short Ribs, are the leanest item on the menu, well marinated with a slightly sweet, Soy-infusion, and quite clean-tasting. It's not my favorite item on the menu, but it's fine for those looking for something less fatty. :)

Their #6. Seasoned Black Pork Belly, is similar to their #5. Black Pork Belly, except it's been marinated in their same house creation. This results in an excessive fatty, delicious and sweet-savory combination punch to the mouth. It's quite good, but I prefer most of my Korean BBQ meats without marinade, so I enjoy their regular Black Pork Belly more.

In the midst of all this meat madness comes the most pleasant surprise of the menu, and it's not even from their BBQ menu: Spicy Pork Ddeokboki (with Rice Cake and Kimchi), a giant pot of spicy deliciousness. :)

While the intense, retina-searing red color may send off massive warning signs, fear not, this is nowhere close to any of the massive burn found at Jitlada, as an example. :) A sip of this crimson concoction reveals a perfect balance of sweet and spicy, a touch of tang, and a completely addictive quality. Every guest at the table gets seconds and it's the first dish we finish that night. :)

We finish up with my two favorite items on the menu, starting with their #1. Ggot Sal (off the Beef Menu).

Similar to its sister restaurant's "Kobe Style Beef", there's an impressive amount of marbling in this American Kobe cut. The result is a good, satisfying meaty chew with good tenderness, and a genuine beefiness exuding from every bite. Delicious. (^_^)

And we finish up with the utterly satisfying specialty of the house, #1. Special Pork Neck Meat, again. :)

It's just as succulent and brilliant as before. This turns out to be everyone's favorite meat dish of the night, and with good reason, too. :)

Service is as expected in a Korean BBQ restaurant. Like Park's, Don Dae Gam's staff will rotate in and try to help watch over your grill, and cook the meat for you, but sometimes it gets too busy, so be ready to man the grill yourself to prevent anything from overcooking. Prices range from $18 - $30 per meat dish (a very healthy portion :), and their Specials Menu ranges from $3 - $25.

It's always nice finding a specialist that does something well, and for a Pork-centric Korean BBQ experience, Don Dae Gam carries on the focus in quality from its sister, Park's BBQ. While I prefer the Beef offerings at Park's more (it focuses on Beef, after all), when I'm in the mood for Pork, Don Dae Gam is a worthwhile consideration. It's less crowded than Park's BBQ, and features similar prices, while offering some great cuts like their Special Pork Neck Meat and Ggot Sal (with American Kobe Beef). Throw in their spicy, soul-warming stew, Spicy Pork Ddeokboki, and you've got a perfect way to warm up the evenings. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)

Don Dae Gam Pork BBQ
1145 S. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Tel: (323) 373-0700

Hours: Open 7 Days A Week, 5:00 p.m. - 2:00 a.m.(!)