Neighborhood Italian - Celestino

In a time when so many neighborhoods are dominated by mainstream national chain restaurants, it makes you appreciate the smaller, neighborhood eateries, especially when you're in an area without many destination-worthy places. While I usually wrangle my Pasadena Hounds to come out and try the Italian eateries in Mid-town and West L.A., when the situation is reversed, I've found myself returning to Celestino more often than not. Celestino is named after the most famous Drago brother, Chef Celestino Drago of Drago and Drago Centro fame. It used to be part of the Drago empire, but these days, it's being run by his brother, Chef-Owner Calogero Drago.


Stepping into Celestino feels like you've walked into a classic Italian restaurant from the 1980's or '90's. Low, incandescent lighting imparts a warm, yellow hue around the dining room that makes the dining experience more casual and relaxed, than the sharper, more modern, hot establishments around town. There's nothing wrong with it, but the ambiance definitely feels more like a well-worn, familiar pair of shoes or a jacket, than anything.


Like its decor, Celestino's menu seems locked in time, featuring some classics that never change (with a few daily specials to mix things up). The menu is exactly the same from the first time one of my friends took me to Celestino 2 years ago, to my most recent visit last month.

During one of my earlier visits, my guest and I begin with their Asparagus and Arugula Salad.


The Asparagus is cooked just right, and when combined with the Corn, Tomatoes and fragrant Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese, they help to balance out the slightly bitter, peppery aspects of the Arugula. The house-made Lemon Herb Vinaigrette is quite nice, but it's a tad overdressed.

Our entrees arrive next, starting with the Costolette d'Agnello con Aceto Balsamico e Menta (Rack of Lamb with Balsamic and Mint).


I order it medium-rare, and it arrives as specified. The Lamb is juicy, very tender and enjoyable. There's a delicious savory crust around the outer edges, and the Balsamic Sauce is only slightly tart without overpowering the Lamb.


The next entree arrives at this point, a signature item from Chef Celestino Drago's repertoire and kept on the menu due to its popularity, no doubt: Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle (Wide Fettucine with Pheasant and Morels Mushrooms).


The house-made Papardelle pasta is cooked al dente, with a good bite while still being pliable. The amount of Pheasant is a bit too precious, but it works well with the Morel Mushrooms, which have a gorgeous, idiosyncratic aroma and texture. :) Overall, in comparing the version here to the original Drago in Santa Monica and Drago Centro's version, I'd have to say this one is the weakest: A bit too heavy-handed on the Sauce and a bit too sparse on the Pheasant, but it's still a solid version of the Drago classic.

We finish with a house-made Panna Cotta with Strawberries.


The custard-y consistency of this Panna Cotta works fine with the fresh Strawberries, and it's thankfully not too sweet, making for a good way to finish up the meal. :)


On another visit, my guests and I begin with the straightforward-sounding Calamari Fritti (Fried Calamari).


I'm hesitant about ordering this at first, but our server assures us it's their most popular appetizer for a reason. Taking a bite, the light breading gives way to tender, perfectly cooked Calamari pieces, lightly briny and just satisfying on so many levels. :) It truly celebrates the Calamari and should be enjoyed with just a squeeze of Lemon (the accompanying Tomato Sauce is too piquant and overpowers the dish).


Their Zuppa del Giorno is a Mushroom Puree Soup.


It's a slightly-thick, puree of Shiitake, Porcini and Button Mushrooms (with no dairy) and the result is a rustic, fragrant, full-bodied Soup that I can't stop drinking. :)

Their Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare (Spaghetti with Mixed Seafood in a light Tomato Sauce) arrives next.


There's a good, clean, oceanic flavor coming through from the first bite. The pasta is cooked al dente, and the Clams are lightly briny, as are the Mussels. The Shrimp are *not* overcooked in the slightest, showing some good competency from the kitchen in handling different types of seafood at the same time. Overall, my guests loved it and if there was any issue, it'd be that it was just a bit oversauced.


Continuing on, our selection of two Primi Pastas arrives at this point: Shrimp and Porcini Risotto, and their Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle.


Using an Arborio Rice from Piedmont, Italy, the kitchen turns out an excellent product: The Risotto is lightly creamy, delicate with a good, toothsome quality, and the Shrimp are perfectly cooked. Excellent. :)


Their classic Papardelle con Fagiano e Morelle is about the same as last time, except the Pheasant meat this time is far too overcooked, turning into tough, old-tasting morsels.


Dessert arrives in the form of their house-made Tiramisu.


While it's pillowy and quite airy, it's also far too liquid-y and wet for my tastes. It's sitting in a pool of nearly-tasteless liquid and it's a bit off-putting. There's a good dusting of Cocoa Powder and it's not too sweet (a good thing), but overall, there are better versions around town.


On my most recent visit, my guests and I start with their Insalata Primavera e Formaggio di Capra (Baby Mixed Lettuce with Roasted Peppers, Eggplant and Goat Cheese).


The Eggplant is excellent, lightly roasted, allowing it to maintain a good meatiness without turning it into mush (as many Eggplant dishes have a tendency to become). The Goat Cheese is surprisingly mild and complements the salad on many levels, but it's a touch overdressed.


Those looking for a bolder, more savory Pasta might consider the Pennette con Prosciutto e Vodka (Penne Pasta with Prosciutto and Vodka Sauce).


There's a genuine, deep savoriness that pervades each bite that's satisfying on many levels, but at the same time, the heavy Vodka Cream Sauce feels like a dish more befitting a "Red Sauce Italian-American restaurant" than a former satellite of the Drago empire.


The Lasagna alla Bolognese (Lasagna with Meat Ragu) is another dish that seems out-of-place in a (former) Drago restaurant, but at the same time, it seems to fit at Celestino.


The Lasagna is sadly overcooked, turning into a pile of mush. It's also extremely salty, but there's a very clean Bolognese Sauce (more Italian-American style than anything), but it can't save the rest of the dish.


Finally, the Primi combination of Tagliolini Bianchi e Neri con Salsa di Cappesante e Timo (Black and White Tagliolini with Scallops in a Thyme Cream Sauce) and Ravioli di Spinaci e Ricotta Pomodoro e Basilico (Ravioli stuffed with Spinach & Ricotta, in a Tomato and Basil Sauce) arrives soon after.


The Tagliolini pasta is striking in its color and cooked perfectly. There's a good, light creaminess coming through that makes you wonder if its not two different chefs in the kitchen (one making the more delicate pastas and one making the brash Italian-American style dishes).

The Scallops, however, are sadly overcooked, extremely rubbery and dry. :(


Their Ravioli with Spinach and Ricotta comes across as a very straightforward, typical version of the dish, and is too heavily sauced.


Service has been a bit mixed during my visits over the years. On some visits, we get a very friendly server that's almost a caricature of the overly emphatic Italian waiters you might see in movies. On other visits, it's been quite low-key and professional. And on one occasion, we get paired with a waiter that seems like they just arrived from Italy with very little command of the English language (he had a hard time understanding basic requests in English throughout the meal). Prices range from $5 - $28 for most dishes, with most Pasta dishes falling in the ~$14 range.

Celestino has the feel of a low-key, comfortable, neighborhood Italian eatery; one that serves many Italian-American classics and some more enjoyable authentic Italian dishes as well. You see flashes of brilliance from the perfectly cooked Rack of Lamb, to the delicate Mushroom Puree Soup, to the Shrimp and Porcini Risotto. But there are so many heavy-handed dishes that are oversauced or overcooked that it makes you wonder if the menu might be catered to a less discerning crowd than the ones visiting Chef Calogero's brother's flagships like Drago Centro.

Rating: 6.0 (out of 10)

Celestino
141 S. Lake Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91101
Tel: (626) 795-4006

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sun, 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

http://www.calogerodrago.com/

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Relaxed, Pleasant, Seasonal Cooking (or, Celebrating California's Vibrant Produce) - FIG Restaurant

"Market-driven menu." "Local ingredients."

These catchphrases have been appearing so often in recent years whenever a new restaurant debuts - especially in California where we have an abundance of great, fresh produce - that we've become jaded to these descriptions. Unfortunately, all too often, we run across menus that are supposedly using farmer's market fresh ingredients, but upon tasting the vegetables and fruit, they turn out to be soulless and muted. At FIG Restaurant, Chef Ray Garcia has constructed a menu that truly celebrates the local produce that California has to offer, putting the local farmer's market ingredients front-and-center and letting the inherent flavors speak for themselves. This is *not* a vegetarian restaurant - there are plenty of delicious meat dishes on the menu - but it's a restaurant that isn't ashamed to feature the latest fruit and vegetables that are in-season, in all their vibrant glory. :)


Located in the Fairmont Miramar Hotel, FIG's relaxed, casual ambiance is set the moment you step into the beautiful hotel lobby. FIG's decor is pretty minimalistic (except for the one wall adorned with odd, spherical mirrors :), featuring clean white walls and very low, mood-lighting at night. One of the things that struck me on my very first visit was just how *pleasant* the restaurant felt. FIG was at 100% capacity, and yet my guest and I could hold a conversation without shouting (a far cry from the loud cacophony in places like Comme Ca and Osteria Mozza) (and it's been the same, quiet murmuring on each of my 3 visits).



One of the coolest things on the menu is a section at the bottom listing the key produce Chef Garcia is featuring, with headings of "Just Arrived" "In Peak Season" and "Coming Soon." It gives the diner an understanding of what's in season at this point, and what to look forward to in the coming weeks.

During my 1st visit, I start off with their delicious-sounding Blueberry & Thyme Cocktail (Hand-Pressed Blueberries, Organic Lemon Thyme, Reyka Vodka, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Yellow Chartreuse).


The Blueberries taste wonderful, but unfortunately the bartender uses way too much Vodka and Yellow Chartreuse, overpowering everything else; well short of the amazing cocktails at The Varnish or Rivera.

Bread service begins as soon as we're seated, with each guest being treated to these cute mini-loafs of Bread and Homemade Balsamic Butter.


Chef Garcia's Homemade Butter concoctions are definitely a simple highlight for each of my visits to FIG, changing each time I've gone. The Balsamic Butter is simply delicious: Creamy, delicate with just a touch of the acidic tartness from the Balsamic Vinegar which helps to focus the palate as you take each bite.

Their amuse bouche is an example of their focus on produce, with Fresh Plums, Mint, Creme Fraiche.


The slices of Plum taste fine but don't really work that well with the Creme Fraiche. It's nothing amazing, but it's a decent start.

Our first starter arrives a few minutes later, which is an instant order based on the name alone: Bacon Wrapped Bacon (Early Girl Tomatoes, Arugula, Cocktail Avocado). (^_^)


"Bacon Wrapped Bacon" invokes wonderful possibilities as your imagination runs wild. In the end, it turns out to be thick slabs of Pork Belly wrapped in Applewood Bacon. It's smoky, salty and moderately satisfying, but it just feels like it could've been so much more. The Heirloom Tomatoes, Avocado and crisp Arugula really help to soften the sodium levels and add a good foil to each bite.


From their Charcuterie menu, we try the Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (Fig Marmalade, Grilled Baguette).


This turns out to be a delightful dish made of Foie Gras mixed with Clarified Butter and Chicken Livers, blended to a smooth, creamy, spreadable consistency. The Fig Marmalade is a touch too sweet by itself, but when mixed with the Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait on their Grilled Baguette, it turns out to be wonderful decadence. :)



Up next is their Young Beets with Pistachios.


The combination of fresh Yellow and Red Beets, toasted Pistachios and a mix of Field Greens sounds pretty basic (and it is), but that's how confident Chef Garcia is in the ingredients. The young Yellow and Red Beets taste vibrant and soulful and earthy. The touch of aromatic nuttiness from the toasted Pistachios really provide a great counterpoint to the flavors of the Beets.

My favorite dish during my first visit is the Squid Basquaise (Forbidden Rice, Nduja, Prosciutto).


A great Squid dish can be hard to come by at times, but Chef Garcia's cooking prowess really shines here: Perfectly cooked Squid comes stuffed with spicy-hot Calabrian Nduja Sausage. That combination alone, with the savoriness from the Nduja and the light chew and slight oceanic tinge from the Squid, is quite nice, but it's the use of Espelette Peppers and the accompanying fiery sauce that really elevates this dish. It gives you a two-part fire punch (in a good way :), and the Prosciutto is icing on the cake. :)


I love a great Coq au Vin, so I had to give Chef Garcia's version a try: Coq au Vin (Crimini Mushrooms, Lardon, Pee Wee Potatoes).


The Chicken is tender and juicy, well-saturated with the flavors of the Pearl Onions, Lardons, Red Wine and Pee Wee Potatoes. While there's some complexity and layering of flavors, it falls short of the stunning depth and excellence of Chef Marneau's version at Marche Moderne. It's not bad at all, and something I'd order again if I was in the mood and dining at FIG. :)




For dessert, their Chocolate Pot au Creme arrives first.


It's a thick, custardy sweet made of 3 different Chocolates, and it definitely indulges the sweet tooth. :) I'm not that much of a Chocolate fan, but I found it pleasing enough without being cloying, and my guest loved it. :)


We also order their namesake FIG Bars dessert, served with Greek Yogurt Ice Cream.


I'm not sure what to expect, but at the end of the day these FIG Bars taste like a cleaner, slightly more refined version of Fig Newtons. :) It's slightly sweet with a clean biscuit-bread exterior, but it really reminds me of the Fig Newtons I had growing up. The combination with the smeared Chocolate Sauce clashes, however, and we ended up enjoying the rest of the FIG Bars without it.


And while the romantic, low-lit dinner was a nice first impression, one of the things that FIG does surprisingly well is their Sunday Brunch. Walking into FIG on a bright, sunny weekend morning, invigorated by the breeze from the Pacific Ocean (just across the street), you'd think you were in a completely different restaurant.




Grab a table by the window, overlooking the hotel pool (and a bit of the Pacific Ocean), or a table on the patio when it's not too chilly (which is almost never in So Cal :), and sit back and relax. :)



I begin with a cup of their English Breakfast Tea.


It's a private blend, made exclusively for FIG, but it's a bit too mild for my tastes. It's fragrant and light, and a gentle wake-up call, but I prefer my English Breakfast with a bit more punch. :)

Being a Croissant nut, I'm eager to try their version of the plain Croissant.


It is unfortunately slightly stale, but exudes a decent buttery flavor; a far cry from Anisette, Bite Bar and Amandine's versions.


But thankfully things are quickly made right with their Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes (with Almond Blueberry Butter).


I've had so many mediocre Pancakes recently that I'd nearly forgotten what a great Pancake could taste like. Chef Garcia's version is slightly crisped on the outside (lovely :), with a fluffy, moist cake-like interior. The subtle textural contrast is already enjoyable, but then you add in the Homemade Almond Blueberry Butter and it's just amazing. (^_^)


Next up is their Eggs Benedict (Poached Eggs, Canadian Bacon, Hollandaise).


The Eggs are poached just right, and the Hollandaise Sauce is a lighter, more delicate take on the traditional version, but the English Muffin is slightly stale and lacks that great toasted crunch you hope to get.

The side of Breakfast Potatoes are crisped, lightly salted and moist, and quite tasty.


During my 2nd visit, there was an excellent thread by my fellow Hounds on Corned Beef Hash, so when I saw this on the menu, I had to order it. :) Chef Ray Garcia's version of Corned Beef Hash is served with Poached Eggs, Hollandaise and Potato Strings.


Visually, it looks nothing like the usual Corned Beef Hash that my Hounds are searching for, but I gently take a bite, and a deep, balanced, slightly salty, savory wave hits my mouth. Looking past the creamy, delicate Hollandaise Sauce, the Corned Beef Hash is quite smooth (finely chopped) with a touch of chunkiness, and it's the closest I've found texturally to many of the Hounds' beloved Canned Corned Beef Hash. :)

Their Grilled Asparagus are a nice touch as well, with the Asparagus' inherent flavors intensified by the grilling.


Their Brick-Grilled Chicken (Rocket and Cherry Tomato Panzanella) is less successful.


The Crisped Chicken Skin is definitely the highlight of this dish, along with the Chicken Breast. The white meat portion is moist and well-permeated with a flavorful salt and herbaceous taste running all the way to the bone. But it's their dark meat Leg and Thigh portion that is surprisingly the disappointment in this dish: The Chicken Thigh and Leg are overcooked and dry. :( It's still quite flavorful, but really overcooked.


But with the disappointment comes an equally positive surprise: The accompanying Rocket and Cherry Tomato Panzanella is absolutely delicious! (^_^) FIG's claims of really utilizing farmer's market fresh ingredients sings loud and clear here: The Cherry Tomatoes are truly bursting with sweet, sunny flavor (like the best farmer's market Tomatoes when they're in season), and the Rocket (Arugula) is peppery, slightly bitter and verdant. The use of Caperberries provides a more restrained piquant flavor than the more commonly used Capers. Finally, the chunks of thick-cubed, crusty Bread has absorbed the fragrant Olive Oil and all the flavors from the vegetables, and results in the best-tasting Panzanella I've had in years. :)


On my 3rd visit, I have guests who've just flown into town and are looking for a relaxed, casual meal.


Bread service begins with a Homemade Arugula Butter, which sports a lovely leafy green hue and has a slight vegetal undertone.


We start off with their Kurobuta and Cavolo Nero Meatballs.


The Berkshire Pork Meatballs feature a delicious porcine flavor that runs through each bite, but it's on the extremely dense side. One would hope that the Cavolo Nero would help to lighten up each Meatball, but that doesn't seem to be the case. The Spicy Tomato Sauce is bright and Summer-like, and overall it's a decent starter.


The Chicken and Prosciutto Croquettes arrive next.


While ostensibly oil-saturated, these Croquettes turn out to be surprisingly creamy and another solid starter, with the Prosciutto providing the perfect amount of saltiness to the dish.


But with the latest batch of seasonal starters, my favorite might be the Three Bean Fritto Misto.


Chef Garcia takes the evocatively named Dragon Tongue Beans, Blue Lake Beans and Yellow Wax Beans, lightly batters and deep fries them before serving the seasonal Beans with a Garlic Aioli. They taste a touch oily, but beyond that there are some great flavors at work here: There's a real vibrancy, with a touch of (good) bitterness, crispness and focus from the three types of Beans on display.


One dish that took all of us by surprise and left me in a state of shock and joy is the generically named Market Salad.


Just like the claims for "market driven menu" or "local ingredients," seeing a "Market Salad" on a menu around town has fallen far short of expectations far too often. FIG's version of the Market Salad is a revelation of what a genuine farmer's market-based Market Salad should taste like. The Mixed Field Greens taste bright and Spring-like. There's a real vegetal essence coming through each bite. The Peaches, Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes, Jicama, Dried Strawberries are bursting with an earnest, pure flavor. It reminds me of a homemade Salad using great ingredients I just bought at the Hollywood or Santa Monica Farmer's Market. This is probably the best "Market Salad" I've had in the past year or so. Lovely. (^_^)

(Note: Our server mentions that the Market Salad's ingredients change daily, depending on what they have in season.)


Our first entree arrives at this point: Seafood Pot (Hand Harvested Scallops, Pacific Mussels, Prawns, Clams, Jalapeno-Tequila Broth).


Chef Garcia's interpretation of the traditional Moules Frites is light and fragrant: The Pacific Mussels, Clams and Scallops are just cooked through, still tender and spot-on. The Jalapeno-Tequila Broth is a much lighter Broth than the heavier versions usually found accompanying a dish of this sort. It's lightly salted, showing a great restraint, and the playful heat from the Jalapenos and uniqueness of the Tequila infusion really complement the seafood. And finally, the use of Black Radish and Cilantro add a nice finishing touch.


The heaviest item on the menu might very well be their Short Rib and Pancetta Meatloaf (Mashed Potatoes, Carrots, Broccoli di Cecco).


I love a great Short Rib dish, and what's not to love about Pancetta? :) Strangely, however, the flavors don't quite meld into that super-powered dish one might expect. This Meatloaf is dense and intense, and there's a mineral-y, Offal undertone with each bite.


The Mashed Potatoes are silky and creamy, and the Yellow and Purple Carrots are a delight, with a real, natural sweetness and of-the-earth quality. The Broccoli di Cecco is perfectly cooked, tender, yet still having a good bite.


One of my guests wants a smaller portion of the Meatloaf and orders the Open-Faced Meatloaf Sandwich (Mashed Potato Aioli, Roasted Tomato, Bermuda Onion Rings).


This is a smaller, more manageable portion of their Short Rib and Pancetta Meatloaf, served atop a thick slice of a sweet White Bread.


Probably the most disappointing item I've tried on the menu is their B.L.T. (Thick Cut Bacon, Avocado Spread, Heirloom Tomato, Green Leaf Lettuce).


To be fair, this has more to do with my expectations than anything. When I think of "B.L.T.," I imagine delicious, freshly-cooked, *crisped* Bacon, along with great Tomatoes and crisp Iceberg Lettuce on Toasted Bread. FIG's version is a hefty, thick slice of Bacon that's grilled, and more like a slab of Grilled Ham. I feel letdown, but those that want a soft, thick, juicy cut of Pork may enjoy this more. I'd rather have multiple, thinner slices of crispy Bacon in my B.L.T.


The Herb Fries are excellent; cooked at the right temperature (not permeated with oil) and only lightly salted.


We finish with another pleasant surprise: Their BBQ Chicken Sandwich (Pulled Chicken, Coleslaw, Smoked Cheddar).


Just like their generically named "Market Salad," the BBQ Chicken Sandwich really blindsided us. Using fresh, hand-pulled-apart chunks of Chicken mixed with Chef Garcia's version of BBQ Sauce, the end result is a sweet, tangy, lightly spicy Sandwich that's just delicious. The Chicken tastes bright and made the same day (versus the more commonly-found, dried out hockey pucks in many Chicken Breast Sandwiches around town).

While there's no real depth of smokiness from a real Barbecued Chicken (e.g., Bludso's BBQ Chicken), the type of Smoked Cheddar Chef Garcia uses, combined with the house-made Coleslaw and the tangy BBQ Sauce create a really satisfying combination. Excellent! :)


We also order a side of Broccoli di Cecco with Fresno Chile and Lemonquat, which turns out to be perfectly cooked through, lightly spicy from the Fresno Chilies and with just enough tartness from the Lemonquat to make things interesting. Some of my guests are hoping for a bit more heat, but I find it to be just fine for this early meal.


Service has been excellent for all 3 of my visits. The 3 different servers we've encountered have been casual while still maintaining decorum, and the supporting busboys have made sure any other needs were taken care of (always refilling the drinks in a timely fashion, etc.). Prices range from $3 - $25 for Brunch, $9 - $24 for Lunch, and $7 -$39 for Dinner. I've averaged about ~$40 per person including tax and tip for each of my visits.

FIG Restaurant is remarkable for its real celebration of farmer's market fresh produce, with an ever-changing menu featuring the brightest Fruits and Vegetables that are in-season at that moment. And while it never reaches the heights of greatness that places like Animal attain, there are enough standouts like the Squid Basquaise with Forbidden Rice, Nduja and Prosciutto, or the delightful Brunch ambiance and the Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes, or the verdant Market Salad to make this a great local favorite. There's something appealing about finding a place that truly features seasonal, local ingredients that are vibrant, in a relaxed, comfortable setting right next to the Pacific Ocean. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10)

(Note: Complementary Valet Parking with Validation.)

FIG Restaurant
(at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel)
101 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: (310) 319-3111

Hours: [Breakfast] 7 Days A Week, 7:00 a.m. - 11:00 a.m.
[Brunch] Sun, 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Lunch] Mon - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Tues - Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.

http://figsantamonica.com/

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