Smoky, Meaty, Tender Barbecue (or, The Mouth-Watering Beef Brisket, Spare Ribs and Pulled Pork of Bludso's BBQ)

In the world of Food, while everyone's taste is subjective, there are certain hot button topics that can spark a non-stop debate for years if not decades. Just mention the word "Burger" or "Pizza" and there will be no end to the amount of discussion that ensues. (^_~) "Barbecue" falls into this category as well, and the diversity of what constitutes as "BBQ" might be even greater than the Burger or Pizza Wars, ranging from a restaurant grilling some Chicken and pouring over mass-produced BBQ Sauce and calling that "BBQ Chicken", going all the way up to the intricate discussions on authentic styles of "Eastern North Carolina Barbecue" vs. "Western North Carolina Barbecue" vs. "Memphis Style", etc. I'm no Barbecue expert, but when I can enjoy slow-cooked, smoky, meaty but tender, fresh-tasting Beef and Pork in So Cal, call me happy. :) Such is the case with a wonderful hole-in-the-wall Barbecue joint known as Bludso's BBQ.


I still remember my first visit 1.5 years ago. Hearing some Hounds talk excitedly about Bludso's great Barbecue made this an immediate "must try" on my list of restaurants. :) Walking up to the storefront, my guest and I notice that they're still not open, but we could smell this amazing, delicious cloud of smoky meat vapors wafting around the building. Stepping around the corner, we see a parking lot and a giant BBQ smoker and are warmly greeted by two people tending to the slow-cooked meats. They turn out to be BBQ Master-Owner Kevin Bludso and his Assistant Pit Master Larry. Kevin Bludso originally learned about Barbecue from helping at his Grandma's restaurant near Corsicana, Texas since the age of 9.



I also smell some incredible deep-fried goodness and realize they're making Deep Fried Turkeys (they make them upon request (order in advance) and during Thanksgiving).



You often hear about Southern hospitality, but seeing it in person, and all the charm and joviality surrounding Bludso's BBQ made me feel like I was sitting at a friend's backyard party. Mr. Bludso mentions that they're running a little behind, but offers up some chairs and water or soda while we wait as they open up the shop. And as they're removing the Beef, Pork, Chicken and Links from the smoker, you can hear them zinging each other to pass the time:

Larry (from Louisiana) gives Kevin (grew up in Texas and Cali) some flack about Texas.

Kevin Bludso (chiding Larry): "Man, you so old, yo' Social Security number is ONE!" (^_^)

The store is open at this point and we head up front to order. Bludso's BBQ is really a takeout stand; they have ~5 stools and a small counter where you can eat, but no tables (I've eaten at their counter a couple times and it's fine if you don't mind the limited space).


Wanting to try all of their amazing BBQ, we order their Texas Sampler, which includes their Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs, Beef Brisket, Rib Tips, Chicken, Beef Links, Pork Links, Chicken Links, and Pork Shoulder (Pulled Pork). You can add their Angus Beef Rib as an option for $2 (on Weekends Only). It sounded like a lot, but we had no idea about how gargantuan this was (it turns out to be about ~5+ pounds of food(!)). :)


Note: Be sure to ask for the Barbecue Sauce on the Side, so that you can enjoy the smoked meats on their own and control how much Sauce you want (some of the pictures below are from my 2nd visit where in my haste, I forgot to request this, so you can see how much Sauce is used regularly).


We start with their Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs (listed as simply "Rib" on the menu).


There's a gorgeous smoke ring and nice bark. And I take a bite...

Tendrils of complex smokiness pervade my senses; a beautiful aroma of Pecan and Oak Wood combined with Mesquite Charcoal from the slow-cooking. It's followed by this true succulence: A wave of juicy, meaty porky happiness, with notes of Apple, Brown Sugar, Pepper, Oregano and other Spices. Awesome! (^_^)



And then there are those delectable crunchy bits of Pork Cartilage that any Nankotsu (Chicken Cartilage) fan can appreciate: The Cartilage is cooked long enough to provide some crunchiness but soft enough that it doesn't require much effort to chew through; a lovely textural contrast. :)

Consistency is a very important aspect in regards to Barbecue: All too often you might find some fresh-tasting, juicy Ribs during 1 visit at a restaurant, only to be stuck with Barbecue that's been sitting too long on another visit. For my 3 visits to Bludso's BBQ, all of the Barbecue has been consistently well cooked each and every time (I also visited them on different days of the week each visit, to see if that made a difference).


Bludso's offers up 2 kinds of their Homemade Barbecue Sauce - Hot or Mild - and this is where there might be controversy amongst some purists.


I've met people who turn their nose in disdain if anyone attempts to use Barbecue Sauce on their Barbecue; they claim that great Barbecue doesn't need any Sauce at all, and it's all about the Rub and the meat itself. And then there's the taste and thickness of Bludso's Homemade Barbecue Sauce: Mr. Bludso has mentioned that he had to adjust his Barbecue Sauce over the years (from the original style he learned and developed from his Grandmother) because his customers here in California wanted it thicker and sweeter.

While I have no idea what that original Sauce might've tasted like, the current Homemade Mild Barbecue Sauce that Kevin makes is simply delicious. :) It's a Tomato-based Sauce, with Molasses, Cayenne Pepper and his proprietary blend of other Spices. There's a great sweet tang and peppery quality, along with a very mild heat.

The Homemade Hot Barbecue Sauce turns up the heat level a few notches higher, with a medium burn (but nowhere near, say, Jitlada's most incendiary dishes).


If there's one "filler" item in the Texas Sampler, it might be their trio of Beef, Pork and Chicken Smoked Links.


The Links are outsourced, but Kevin cooks them up in the same Smoker as the rest of his meats, giving each type of Sausage Link a meaningful smoky edge. They're not "bad" at all (if you enjoy Smoked Sausage Links they're fine), but it's clear that their made-from-scratch Barbecued Meats are the real stars here.



The Barbecued Chicken is surprisingly well-executed.


As expected, there's a great smoky quality that seeps into most of the Chicken, along with Black Pepper, but the most surprising aspect is that the Chicken Breast / White Meat portions have been at least semi-moist to juicy during each of my visits. It's thankfully never been dried out. But overall, in light of the other offerings, their Barbecued Chicken - while healthier - isn't something I'd seek out if I had a choice.


And then there's the 15 Hour Slow-Roasted, Pork Shoulder (also used in their Pulled Pork Sandwich).


Besides Pork Spare Ribs, I'd have to say Pulled Pork / Pork Shoulder is my 2nd favorite type of protein when eating Barbecue. :) And thankfully Bludso's Pork Shoulder is very good. Being cooked for over 15 Hours, the Pork Shoulder has consistently been very tender with the Oak and Pecan woodsiness present in every bite without it being overpowering. It's also tasted *fresh* (i.e., not leftovers or reheated) each time I've gone, and has become my favorite Pulled Pork locally. Excellent! :)

And while their Pork Spare Ribs are top-notch, those that prefer more soft Cartilage and Meat (and no Bone), should consider their Rib Tips.



Indeed, the Rib Tips are an extension and continuation of where the delicious Pork Spare Ribs left off, having a great bark and smoke ring, as well as a little more fat and much more of the satisfying crunchy Pork Cartilage. :) The very end piece (the very tip) does tend to be drier, but there's so much concentrated Barbecue goodness that the dried out portions don't feel like a loss. Delicious. :)



Breaking up this meat madness is probably my favorite Side Order at Bludso's: Collard Greens (listed simply as "Greens" on the menu).


On paper, it sounds boring enough, but these Collard Greens are wonderfully garlicky, tender and lightly spicy.


I generally tend to shy away from Barbecued Beef Ribs, as they're usually gargantuan and a bit too unwieldy at times, but Bludso's Angus Beef Ribs (Weekends Only) maintain the quality level of their other offerings.


There's a hardcore Coarse Black Pepper and Salt flavor that comes through on the crust, followed by a more intense smokiness (more than their other Barbecue dishes). The Angus Beef Ribs have always been consistently juicy on each of my visits, and it pairs well with their Mild Homemade Barbecue Sauce.

But perhaps the biggest surprise and shock of the entire menu is Bludso's Beef Brisket.


This 15 Hour, Slow-Cooked piece of beefy goodness is outstanding! (^_^) It's *so* juicy and luscious and sexy (thanks to the supple layer of Beef Fat) and it just skyrocketed "Beef Brisket" to the top of my list of favorite Barbecued Meats (at least at Bludso's (^_~)).



Besides their Collard Greens, there are 4 other choices for Side Orders, starting with their Mac & Cheese.


Their Mac & Cheese has been a bit inconsistent during each of my visits: A couple times the Mac & Cheese has been creamy and cheesy, while on my latest visit, it was overcooked, with the Macaroni being almost mush (it still had a good flavor, but it was way overcooked).


Their Baked Beans remind me of the Baked Beans they'd give at my school cafeteria growing up (not in a bad way :) - It's that familiar, classic, sweet, mellow, thick Beans in a Brown Sauce that I got as a kid at school. It's not egregious, but nothing to write home about. :)


Their Corn Bread (included with Lunch or Dinner plates) is crumbly, moist and only lightly sweet; an enjoyable respite from the meat. :)


And their Potato Salad is very creamy, a touch sweeter than what I prefer, with soft chunks of Potato; a solid option.


Their Desserts tend to fall on the sweeter side. The Banana Pudding is a simple Banana-flavored Pudding mixed with Vanilla Wafer Cookies. It's really straightforward and fills a certain craving if you're in the mood for it.


Their Red Velvet Cake is made daily by Kevin Bludso's Mother.


It's not going to win any awards for excellence, but the slightly-dry-but-still-moist Red Velvet Cake tastes like you're eating a homemade dessert at your friend's house (baked by your friend's mom or grandmother). It's rustic, a bit too sweet, but not mass-produced.


Service has always been warm and friendly: You order at the counter and pick up your order when ready. And if you're eating at their small counter, you might hear Cookie (who runs the front of the house) or Kevin Bludso asking if you need any more napkins or if everything's alright. Prices range from $2.85 - $28.50 (for the Texas Sampler (which can feed 3-4 people comfortably)).

Bludso's BBQ turns out some of the most delectable Barbecued Pork Spare Ribs, Rib Tips, Beef Brisket and Pulled Pork Shoulder around town. Whether it's truly "authentic Texas-style BBQ" is something I leave to the experts, but with their nuanced smoky bark, satisfyingly substantial Spare Ribs that are as meaty as they are tender (without it being too soft), wonderfully supple Pulled Pork Shoulder, and the amazing Beef Brisket, Bludso's is a great place to stop by for some 'Cue. :)

Rating: 8.4 (out of 10)

Bludso's BBQ
811 S. Long Beach Blvd.
Compton, CA 90221
Tel: (310) 637-1342

Hours: Tues - Thurs, 11:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Sun, 12:30 p.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays & Rainy Days (since the Smoker is outside).

http://www.bludsosbbqandcatering.com/

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Jack Of All Trades - Izayoi

Finding success in the restaurant business can be a tough prospect. At the core of the restaurant is the age-old question of culinary viewpoint. What are one's goals? And once you decide on a viewpoint, how expansive or in-depth do you want to go? Is it better to try and appease as many people as possible, or focus on specializing in a few dishes? For the Izakaya (Japanese Pub) known as Izayoi, they've taken the generalist approach, and in light of the constant crowds and celebrating their 5th year anniversary, it looks like they've achieved solid success.


My 1.5 years worth of visits have seen changes in the kitchen and, as a result, consistency issues with a variety of their signature dishes. At the heart of the problem may be their massive menu that seems to be part of their philosophy to have something for everyone: You've got traditional Izakaya small plates like Hijiki or Roasted Ginko Nuts, and then traditional Sushi and Sashimi flowing into crazy Fusion Rolls like their Red Dragon Roll and B.S.C. Roll (Baked Scallop on top of a California Roll). There's the ever-popular So Cal favorite Salmon Teriyaki plate, Nabe (Hot Clay Pots), Salads, their version of Shumai Shrimp Dumplings, classic Pub food like Buta no Kakuni (Pork Belly), Deep Fried items, Kushiage, Tempura, Macaroni Gratin, Fondue, Soba and Udon Noodles, and things like Mochi Ice Cream as well. It's impressive and amazing that the kitchen can keep up with so many distinct offerings, but in the end it suffers a bit for it.

Izayoi occupies a comfortable, open, cheery space in the heart of Little Tokyo. The tables can be a bit close at times, but it's designed well-enough to allow for some solid communal merriment and enjoyable dinners. :)

Their Sake Menu features some solid choices, in both bottle and glass servings. You have the usual suspects: Hakutsuru, Kikusui, Otokoyama and Hakkaisan. For those new to Sake, you might consider Kikusui for its gentle, clean taste with a light floral finish. By the glass, Kira, Onigoroshi, Harushika and Kubota Hekiju are all decent, but by far their best offering is Kubota Manju. Unfortunately, the markup on Kubota Manju here is the steepest I've encountered in So Cal so far, going for $25 per glass(!). One time, the waitress quoted me a bottle at about $300, which is pretty extreme (you can still find a good bargain at some Izakayas or Yakitori-yas for only ~$125 per bottle). But it's certainly the cleanest and smoothest amongst their offerings.

During one of my earliest visits over 1.5 years ago, I start with their Ankimo (Steamed Monk Fish Liver served with Ponzu Sauce).


The Ankimo is relatively fresh, but a tad too fishy and dull. The Ponzu Sauce and Negi (Green Onions) help to balance things out a bit, but it's still a bit disappointing.


Their Jikasei Tofu (Izayoi Homemade Tofu) arrives next.


I'm always excited to try a Homemade Tofu, in the hopes that I can find a great version here in So Cal. Izayoi's version is very clean, but it seems almost too clean and plain. There's a lack of a genuine Soy Bean essence coming through. The texture has always been a bit dense for my tastes, but still enjoyable. If they can work on improving their Tofu-making process, they might have a real winner here.


One of the more interesting dishes is their Buta Niku no Saikyo Yaki (Pork Belly Marinated in Saikyo Miso).


There's a good porcine flavor coming through with each bite, accented heavily by a very pungent, heavily fermented version of Saikyo Miso. It's slightly sweet, tangy and one of the more interesting flavors I've had over the years at Izayoi.


One of the mainstays at most Izakaya restaurants in So Cal is the classic dish known as Agedashi Tofu (Deep Fried Tofu in Broth).


Unfortunately, Izayoi's version is a misstep: Their Agedashi Tofu over the years has consistently been soggy, with the Katakuriko (Potato Starch) exterior always over soaked in the sauce by the time it arrives at the table, with the soggy outside falling off the Tofu. :( It's a far cry from Izakaya Bincho's legendary Agedashi Tofu, but to be fair, most local versions fare about the same.



Their limited selection of grilled items (their attempt at popular Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewer) dishes) is probably best represented with their Nankotsu Kushiyaki (Chicken Cartilage Skewers)).


Made with Yagen Nankotsu (Cartilage from the Chicken Breast, instead of the Leg portion) - a nice touch - it's unfortunately dried out and really one note. This is another example of in trying to please all crowds, certain items suffer. They use a gas grill to cook the Nankotsu (instead of over Japanese Binchotan (White Charcoal)) and without that smokiness, their Kushiyaki items lack the real smoky depth you'd expect at a good Yakitori-ya.


I know better than to order Sushi at an Izakaya, but over the years, I've had guests who have always been in the curious mood to try something from their Sushi Menu. On one visit we try their Chutoro and Uni.


Their Uni (Sea Urchin) from Santa Barbara is extremely pedestrian. On a scale of 1 - 100, with 100% being perfect, sweet, pure Uni loveliness, Izayoi's version is about a ~60%: It's extremely fishy and briny, tasting like something you'd find in many average Sushi bars around So Cal. :( To make matters worse, the Nori wrapping around the Uni is soggy and soft.


Their Chutoro (Medium-Fatty Bluefin Tuna Belly) fares better, with a moderately fresh taste, but each piece is marred with gristle / connective tissue.


But perhaps the one dish that seems to offer the best mirror into the ebb and flow of the changing kitchen staff is their Buta no Kakuni (Simmered Pork Belly).


The very first time I had this dish 1.5 years ago, it was nearly inedible: Extremely salty and simultaneously too cloying(!) (with an overdose of Sugar and Mirin), one of my guests literally dunked it in a cup of Green Tea to try and salvage some of this dish. :( Over the years, sometimes it's moist, other times dried out and chunky, and on my most recent visit it seems to have settled on "sweet, but very fatty and slightly dried out." If they can improve their consistency, it has a chance of being a solid example of the famous Japanese Pork Belly dish, but currently, it's a distant runner-up to Okan's vibrant version, and Izakaya Bincho's 48 Hour version.



One of the better dishes I've had is their Kamo to Nasu no Kuwayaki (Sauteed Duck and Eggplant).


Thin slices of Grilled Duck and Eggplant are layered across the plate, with a decent Katakuriko (Potato Starch) Soy Sauce-based Sauce. There's a good, standout Duck flavor coming through with each bite. It tends to be on the saltier side, but is quickly alleviated with some Steamed Rice or Beer/Sake. :)


One area where Izayoi could improve upon substantially would be their Deep Frying skills. Consider their Iwashi no Suri Shiso no Hasami Age (Minced Sardine Wrapped with Shiso Leaf and Deep Fried), which is a good example of potential and mistakes.


Each piece of this Minced Sardine with Shiso Leaf exhibits the commonly found thick Tempura batter that's fried at the wrong temperature (it's saturated with oil). What's frustrating is that the flavor combination is excellent: There's a satisfying oceanic component from the Iwashi (Sardine), combined with fragrant, herbal-y Shiso Leaf, and it's lovely. But the outer batter is just too greasy. One can't expect that they rival a Tempura specialist like Komatsu or Inaba, but if it's on the menu at a popular place like Izayoi, you hope that the kitchen can approach their level of execution at least.


Probably one of my favorite items on the menu has to be their Burokkuri- Salada / Mentai Mayo Doresshingu (Cooked Broccoli served Chilled with Spicy Cod Roe Dressing).


There's been a consistently clean, bright, crispness to this Salad, each time I've ordered it. The Broccoli is always just cooked through, supple while still maintaining a good firmness, and their House-made Mentaiko Dressing hits just the right notes of spicy and briny (in a good way). Excellent! :)


If their Broccoli Salad represents the bright and crisp, their Gomakoromo Tofu (Grounded Sesame Paste on top of Homemade Tofu) represents the silky, creamy and sexy side of the menu.


The first thought that enters the mind when placing a spoonful in your mouth is "refreshing." Followed by this amazing confluence of silkiness, aromatic nuttiness from the Black Sesame and White Sesame, a teasing sweetness and a feint backnote of bitter. It's absolutely wonderful and my favorite dish at Izayoi next to their Broccoli Salad. (^_^)


For all the wonderful surprise in their Black Sesame Tofu, their Kamo Ro-su (Miso Marinated Grilled Duck Sirloin) is unexpected in a different way.


Forget any notions of what you think "Duck Sirloin" should taste like, and know that this is an explosion of Duck Offal: There's a heavy mineral-y, metallic, pungent funk that pervades each bite and it shocks the palate. While I enjoy Offal sometimes, it's just overwhelming in this dish and the texture of the Duck "Sirloin" is extremely chewy and full of gristle and tendon, which makes it even harder to eat. :(


In repeat visits to Izayoi, I'm always hoping to find more specialty dishes, something that makes them stand out from the crowd, and one of the dishes that had the most potential but falls short is their Jikasei Satsuma Age (Izayoi Homemade Deep-Fried Fish Cake) (3 Kinds Mix).


Homemade Fish Cake can be a wonderful thing, and I can't wait to try it, but the first type of Homemade Fish Cake is extremely dense and elastic, it has a store-bought taste, except that it's extremely fishy (in a bad way). :( The 2nd type of Fish Cake is combined with Potatoes and there's a decent crisped exterior. It's thankfully less pungent than the first type, but still underwhelming. The 3rd type of Fish Cake has a density inbetween the soft Potato blend and the rubbery 1st type. Overall, it's something I won't be ordering again.



Finally, their Wakadori Tatsuta Age (Japanese Style Fried Chicken) probably best summarizes many of the dishes coming out of the kitchen these days.


There's a decent breading on this Chicken that's slightly doughy with a feint crunch. The Chicken is bordering on dryish, but still has some moisture, and the seasoning is rather one-note. The classic Karaage (Japanese style Fried Chicken) is an item one hopes every good Izayaka can get right, but it falls short here. While it would be good to match the excellence of the outstanding Karaage at Torihei or Izakaya Bincho's version, even a few notches below would be welcome, but sadly it's not.


Service has been consistently OK: You just wave your hand to get the attention of a waitress passing by the tables should you need anything. Prices range from $3.50 - $19.50 (for a Sushi Combination platter), with most dishes in the ~$8 range. We average about ~$45 per person (including tax and tip).

Izayoi is a good example of one of the newer Izakayas to hit Southern California. It has a good, simple design, welcoming ambiance and a massive menu to try and appease all customers. But in trying to cover all the bases, it loses the razor sharp focus to deliver consistently excellent, specialized dishes with a smaller menu. While there are some standouts like their Broccoli Mentaiko Salad and their Homemade Tofu with Black Sesame, there are too many dishes that fall short of greatness. Still, judging by the crowds and the fact that they've survived over 5 years in Little Tokyo (they were around even before the recent boom in local residents), they're doing something right. As it stands, Izayoi is the best Izakaya in Little Tokyo and I'll be back if I'm in the area, but they're a Jack of all trades, and master of none.

Rating: 6.3 (out of 10)

Izayoi
(Little Tokyo)
132 South Central Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (213) 613-9554

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Fri, 5:45 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

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