Fresh, Vibrant, Pure Shanghai Cuisine (and Home of the Succulent, Braised Pork Shank) - Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan)

In the culinary world, the freshness of the food is one of the most fundamental and taken for granted aspects in a restaurant. We've all run into that Rotisserie Chicken that's been sitting around for too long; the rack of Ribs that tastes like it was reheated; the Banh Mi Sandwich on stale bread; or the slices of Chashu Pork (in a bowl of Ramen) that tastes like it was made 2 days ago and served from the refrigerator. You'd think that it'd be obvious and a given for the chefs and owners of restaurants to only serve what's freshly made just for your order (or prepped that morning), but, sadly, it's not always the case.

In the realm of Shanghai restaurants in So Cal, with time-intensive, slow-braised items like Hohng Shao Rou (Braised Pork) and Ti Pahng (Pork Pump), finding establishments that serve these dishes freshly made that day are becoming rarer and rarer. So when you run across a Shanghai restaurant that makes its slow-braised meat dishes fresh that morning and throws out whatever doesn't get served to ensure freshness, it deserves to be applauded. That restaurant is Yu Garden (Chinese name "Shanghai Yu Yuan"), a new Shanghai restaurant opened across from Hawaii Supermarket on Valley.


Thanks to a craving one night for Shanghai dishes, I wrangled up one of my SGV Hounds and decided to try this new restaurant, remembering the tip from Chandavkl. Yu Garden is surprisingly small, with one row of HK Cafe-style pleather booths lining one wall, and Christmas lights hanging in the window, with the kitchen taking up half the floor space.


As we sit down and order, we hear jovial conversations of Shanghai dialect between the staff and several tables (in fact, in all 4 of my visits, my SGV Hounds note that there are multiple Shanghainese families and couples that are dining here, heartily conversing with the waiters and kitchen staff in their unique dialect).

(Note: Thanks to my SGV Hounds for the pronunciation help. All Chinese dish spellings are geared toward pronunciation.)

As part of their new opening celebration, Yu Garden is offering a free appetizer to every table: Gahn Shao Hsia Ren (Shrimp with Chili Sauce).


These Shrimp are non-butterflied (which might be off-putting for some) and wok-fried in a Sweet Soy Sauce. The shell is fried to the point where it's so brittle that it's edible along with the Shrimp itself. It's a decent dish, but nothing stellar.

But then imagine a transformation of a typically boring vegetable - Hsi Gua (Chinese Squash) - into something so absurdly delicious that the only thing you can do is just stop and bask in its glory. (^_^) That dish is their: Hsien Dahn Huang Hsi Gua (Chinese Squash with Salted Duck Egg Yolks).


Chinese Squash can be bitter at times, and it's usually pretty mellow and conservative. But in the hands of Chef Hu Bin (a professionally trained Chef who's been cooking for over 20 years in Shanghai before moving to L.A.), it's pure genius: The pairing of the silky, simple Chinese Squash with the earthy, sulfuric intensity of Salted Duck Eggs makes for the best Chinese Vegetable dish I've had in the past few years. Excellent! :)


And then, as if things couldn't get any better, their Tuh Suh Hsiao Yuan Ti (House Special Braised Pork Shank (their version of "Pork Pump")) arrives in all its quivering, luscious glory.


I've been really disappointed with the state of Pork Pumps in So Cal recently. Perhaps it's just bad luck / timing, but the last few times I've had Pork Pumps around town, it's always tasted dull and muted; they taste like they were reheated from the day before (or longer). So imagine my delight when I bite into this ultra-tender, moist, succulent chunk of their Slow-Braised Pork Shank, and it's *so* fresh and vibrant and delicious! :)

Chef Hu only makes a few of these Pork Shanks for that day and doesn't serve any leftovers the next day; once they're out, they're out. It has a pure, slow-cooked aspect to the Pork that's so soft and tender and unctuous that it's my current favorite version of this dish right now. For comparison purposes, I used to love Lake Spring's Pork Pump years ago, but their quality has been slipping for a while. I like Mei Long Village's version for its depth of flavor (over this one), and the now defunct Green Village used to make a good version when they were on. But they've all had off nights where you could taste the reheated facet once in a while. For now, I'll take the freshness and simplicity of Yu Garden's version over the inconsistent, deeper flavors elsewhere.


The next dish to arrive is their Gahn Guo Ji (Griddle Cooked Chicken Pot).


A searing hot, large metal pot gets put before us and there's a nice pungent aroma pouring out. Bits of just-cooked-through Daikon Radish, Cucumber, Celery and Chilies give a nice, crunchy textural contrast to the spicy-salty-sour fresh Chicken chunks. Like the Pork Shank, the Chicken tastes really fresh (not reheated). And while I appreciate the freshness, this is one example where the recipe needs a bit more tinkering: It has a nice tart-spicy edge and goes well with Steamed Rice, but it's not something I'd find myself ordering again.


Overall, the first visit was quite satisfying, and I couldn't wait to return to try more dishes. During my 2nd visit, one of my Westside Hounds brings along a friend from Shanghai (a big food lover), so I'm curious to hear what they think of this restaurant. :)


They want to start with a simple, tried-and-true dish: Hsiang Gahn Rou Hsi (Shredded Pork with Dry Bean Curd).


It's a decent version of the dish, but nothing to write home about. Chef Hu uses fattier strips of Pork than what I'm used to, but the Dried Bean Curd is fine.

Their Zao Liu Yu Pian (badly translated as "Fish Slices Fries with Wine" :) quickly makes up for it.


While it's not live fish, the Boneless Fish Slices taste fresher and thankfully not like dirt/mud that seem to plague many local restaurants with their Fish Slice dishes. But it's the Zao Ru - sort of like a fermented byproduct from Rice Wine making (as our server explains) - that really gives this dish its standout characteristic: It's enchantingly fragrant and has an alluring sweetness, and is wonderful with the Bamboo Shoots and Wood Ear Mushrooms.


Unfortunately, their Xiao Lohng Bao (XLB) ("Steamed Pork Buns") fall short.


Their Xiao Lohng Bao's have too thick a skin, leading to an imbalance of too much dough that overpowers the Pork and Broth filling. It's not horrible, but it's not going to topple the foodie favorites from the SGV.


Their Hohng Shao Rou Bai Yeh Jie (Braised Pork with Bean Curd) arrives next.


I've actually stopped ordering Hohng Shao Rou recently because too many places serve this reheated; it has the funk of being made 1-2 days earlier and reheated to order. But my guests wanted to try Chef Hu's version and I'm so glad we ordered it. :)

While it's a little firmer than I prefer, the chunks of Braised Pork taste so *fresh* and focused, reflective of their cooking philosophy. There's a pure, Light Soy Sauce flavor coming through, and the mix of fatty bits with lean meat in the Pork chunks are delicious with Steamed Rice. :) The Bean Curd Ties are a great textural complement to the dish, and help alleviate the strain of the dish turning too heavy. Delicious. :)


Their Hohng Shao Doh Fu ("Tofu Pot") is a fine example of simple, clean, focused cooking techniques.


Ostensibly, a simple, homely dish, but that's the beauty of their Hohng Shao Do Fu. Silky slabs of Tofu, Bamboo Shoots, Snow Peas and Mushrooms cooked in a Soy Sauce-based Brown Sauce. There's a purity and simplicity to it that's subtle and appreciated.


One of their most unexpected surprises is their Chuen Juen (Shanghai Style Egg Rolls).


Growing up in So Cal, Egg Rolls have always seemed to be a snack made for tourists, served with some horrific, artificial, glowing Sweet Red Sauce of some sort. :) I never order Egg Rolls at Chinese restaurants, but my guest from Shanghai was craving a bit of the homeland so we obliged.

As I'm about to take a bite, I look up and notice a beaming smile coming from both my Westside Hound and the Shanghai guest. I quickly take a bite and realize why: A super-light, flaky, *thin* crispy, crackling skin gives way to this liquid, piping-hot center of pure Da Baicai (Napa Cabbage) essence! Wow.

I've never had an Egg Roll like this before, and my Shanghai guest explains that this is "a real Shanghai Egg Roll," not the Westernized version that's more commonly found. They seem pleasantly surprised and says that it's pretty close to home. I'm just happy to have found my new favorite Egg Roll in L.A. :)


Their Tsohng Yoh Bing (Green Onion Pancake) doesn't fare as well.


Yu Garden's version is a bit on the greasy side, and too thick. It's a decent version, but there are better ones around town.


On another visit, we begin with their Suan La Tahng (Hot and Sour Soup). It's an adequate version of the classic soup, with sufficient tartness and decent peppery heat, but nothing to get too excited about.


On our server's recommendation, we decide to try the Bah Bao La Jiang (Eight Treasures in Hot Sauce).


While I've had Bah Bao Fahn (Eight Treasures Rice) dessert more times than I can remember, this is the first time I've tried this savory Eight Treasures in Hot Sauce. Per its name, this dish usually contains 8 components to complete the dish. Yu Garden's version contains: Dry Bean Curd, Shrimp, Bell Peppers, Mushrooms, Chicken, Bamboo Shoots, and Cucumbers. The missing eighth ingredient is Chicken Gizzard, but our server mentions that since it's not that popular in the U.S., they've withheld it from the dish.

While it sounds pretty interesting, the end result is a bit underwhelming: It's very sweet (heavy use of Tianmian Jiang (Sweet Bean Sauce)), slightly spicy and the Shrimp tastes a bit too briny (the only dish I've run across that wasn't as optimally fresh as possible).


The second of the recommended dishes from our server is their Tahng Tsu Hsiao Pai (Sweet and Sour Spareribs (lit. "Sugar and Vinegar Riblets")).


I never thought I'd see the day when any of my SGV Hounds would be ordering "Sweet & Sour" anything, but our server assures us that this version is an authentic Shanghai dish, similar to the more popularly named "Shanghai Hsiao Pai Gu" ("Shanghai Riblets").

True to its name, fresh Pork Spareribs are deep fried and then sauteed in a wok with Black Rice Vinegar and Sugar. It's sweet and tart, and better than the mainstream versions of "Sweet & Sour," but the Pork Ribs while very fresh, are a bit too firm at times.


Unlike their XLB, their Ji Tsai Hwun Twun ("Green Leaf Wonton") are excellent little pockets of goodness. :)


The little Wontons are very different from the more popular Cantonese / Hong Kong version, with a simple filling of Marinated Ground Pork and Shepherd's Purse greens. The delicate herbaceous Shepherd's Purse and pure Pork flavors come shining through, especially given the backdrop of their Gao Tahng, a light Pork Bone Broth adorned with Green Onions and bits of Egg.


(Note: Chef Hu doesn't add MSG to any of his dishes. The only MSG to be found would be the small amount that occurs in the Soy Sauce itself.)

Another standout dish would be their Tai Tiao Hsiao Huang Yu (Yellow Croaker with Seaweed).


It's nice that they use deboned Yellow Croaker fish instead of larger blocks of Grey Sole or Rock Cod that's used at some other places. The Hsiao Huang Yu tastes bright, oceany (in a good way), with a slight crunch in the batter, which is infused with a briny Seaweed that Chef Hu imports direct from Shanghai (he wasn't happy with the quality of the Tai Tiao found through local suppliers). This all adds up to one of the better versions of this dish I've tried recently.


I couldn't wait to let my guest try out (and for me to repeat) the mouth-watering, porcine experience that is their Tuh Suh Hsiao Yuan Ti (House Special Braised Pork Shank), so I happily order it again. :)



And from the first touch of the fork against the Braised Pork Shank (that causes it to easily yield and reveals a silky, super moist mass of long-stewed Pork heaven :), I'm happy to report that even on my 3rd visit, the Braised Pork Shank is as fresh-tasting and pure as my 1st visit. If they can maintain the freshness (so far, so good) and develop the flavors a bit more, this could become the definitive Pork Pump-style dish in So Cal. :)




On my 4th visit, we begin with their wrongly translated Nan Gua Hsien Bei Gun ("Pumpkin with Fresh Snail" (Note: It's not "Snail" but actually "Scallop" :)).


I'm usually not a big Pumpkin fan but this has to be hands-down, the best savory Pumpkin dish I've ever had anywhere. :) It sounds weird on paper, but it's a pure, magical distillation of Pumpkin essence that's so fresh, focused and simply lovely. The shredded Scallop adds a nice sea breeze counterpoint to the Pumpkin Soup. Delicious.


One of the daily specials this evening is their Hohng Shao Hsiao Huang Yu Do Fu (Braised Yellow Croaker with Tofu).


These are whole, little Yellow Croakers, slowly braised in a Light Soy Sauce. The Yellow Croaker tastes clean and vivid, and the Braised Tofu is a nice accompaniment. If there's one drawback it's the amount of bones in the Yellow Croaker, so those that don't like to fuss with fish bones should avoid this dish. Overall, I prefer their (deboned) Yellow Croaker in Seaweed preparation more than this version.


The last savory dish of the night is Pahng Hsieh Tsao Nian Gao (Crab with Rice Cake).


The Nian Gao (Rice Cake) slices are soft and supple, but what really makes this dish sing is the live Crab's inherent sweetness and bright brininess. It's perfectly cooked, and completely satisfying sucking out the fresh Crab meat while eating the Nian Gao. The intense and beautifully oceanic Crab Eggs and Guts are a great finisher.


If there's one dessert to get at Yu Garden, it would have to be their Gwei Hua Jio Niang Hsiao Tahng Yuan (Rice Ball with Rice Wine Sauce).


Chef Hu makes his own Jio Niang, the Rice Wine essence that's at the heart of this dessert, and the difference is remarkable (compared to other places around town). This dish first engages your sense of smell with some really fragrant Gwei Hua (Sweet Olive Flowers). I've had this dessert numerous times in the past 3 years, but this is the first time I've had it with Sweet Olive Flowers this aromatic.

It's only lightly sweet, allowing the Jio Niang flavors to shine and letting the Sesame Rice Balls to provide the rest of the sweetness to round things out.



Service is about as expected for this little San Gabriel Valley eatery: There are no busboys, so 2 waiters cover the needs of the entire restaurant, from clearing dishes to refilling tea and drinks and more. Yu Garden has a Lunch Menu from $4.55 - $6.55. Their Dinner Menu ranges from $2 - $29.95 (for the Eight Treasures Duck), with most dishes averaging ~$8. We averaged about ~$18 per person (including tax and tip). It should be noted their wonderful Braised Pork Shank ("mini Pork Pump") is only $8.95.

While simplistic at times, Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan)'s focus on freshness and its clarity of Shanghai dishes deserves to be commended. From their fresh Hohng Shao Rou (Braised Pork), to the delicious Shanghai Style Egg Rolls, to their earthy, vibrant Pumpkin Soup with "Snail" (Scallop) and the succulent, juicy House Special Braised Pork Shank, Yu Garden is a good place to stop in for some Shanghai cuisine. With some more development of its recipes, it has the potential to become a permanent mainstay of the San Gabriel Valley.

Rating: 8.0 (out of 10.0)

Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan)
107 E. Valley Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Tel: (626) 569-0855

Hours: [Lunch] Thurs - Tues, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Thurs - Tues, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Closed Wednesdays.

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True To Its Name - Tavern (Suzanne Goin)

tavern
–noun
1. a place where liquors are sold to be consumed on the premises.
2. a public house for travelers and others; inn.

—Synonyms
1. bar; pub.
(Random House Dictionary)

One's expectation can be a funny thing. Attend a dinner expecting too much and it invariably leads to disappointment. Conversely, going into a restaurant with no expectations, and there's a good chance you'll be pleasantly surprised and impressed. If one visits Tavern - the newest venture from partners Caroline Styne and Chef Suzanne Goin (AOC, Lucques) - and takes its name as a reflection of what the restaurant will deliver (i.e., "a tavern / bar / pub"), then Tavern delivers in spades. It's a place where you can grab a decent cocktail (or 3 :), get some food and chat with friends and family. However, any new restaurant from celebrated chef Suzanne Goin is going to come with greater expectations than just "a local tavern / pub," and that's where Tavern begins to falter.


I remember first getting excited about Tavern (not to be confused with the similarly named "Westside Tavern" also on the Westside, also opened recently) after seeing some early pics of the lavish space on Eater LA. I've generally enjoyed Chef Goin's ventures in the past, and from the moment I stepped inside during my 1st visit, I could tell that Tavern was striving for far more than just a simple "tavern / pub" for the neighborhood. There's a gorgeous larder and bakery area off to the left, simple, well-lit and charming.


From there, we're led past an inner dining room and full bar, equally charming in its clean lines and wood panel floors.



And finally to our destination, the absolutely beautiful atrium dining area, with huge windows letting in the sun and sky, complete with live trees planted indoors.



Tavern offers a variety of fresh juices for Breakfast and Brunch, and during my 1st visit, I begin with Fresh-Squeezed Grapefruit Juice, which is spot-on perfect in its balance of bitterness and sweetness.


The first thing that catches my eye is the Pecan Sticky Bun, Suzanne-style (with Bacon). After all, a fresh-baked Pastry with Bacon? How can you not order it? :)


What arrives is nothing short of impressively decadent on every level: It's this visually stunning large Cinnamon Sticky Bun, covered in Candied Pecans and Bacon. Taking a bite, the fresh, mouth-watering Bacon coated in a Rum Caramel Sauce gives way to the crunch of Candied Pecans and the Cinnamon succulence of the Sticky Bun itself, and it's thankfully *not* too sweet, despite its looks. It's absurdly delicious and has become my favorite Sweet from Chef Goin and Pastry Chef Breanne Verela. :)



We also start off with a simple Croissant.



During my 1st visit, the Croissant is flaky, crispy and not overly buttery. It's surprisingly good. But on subsequent visits, the Croissants have been overcooked (one time on my 4th visit, it was overcooked to the point of being burnt on the edges), which is frustrating, considering how good it was the 1st time I had it.


We continue on with their Wild Mushroom Frittata with Spinach and Cheddar.


The Frittata turns out to be quite nice: The iron-y notes from the Spinach melding well with the earthy Mushrooms, but it's the perfectly cooked Eggs that steal the spotlight. Visually it may look messy, but the Eggs are very soft, supple, moist and provides a silkiness with each bite.


The side of Fried Potatoes are golden and crisp, with a soft center and seasoned just right.


Being a huge Duck fan, I had to order their Warm Duck Confit Salad, Frisee, Crumbled Potato and Fried Egg.


Unfortunately, it doesn't work nearly as well as the previous dish: The Duck Confit tastes old and reheated, and is dried out. :( The Frisee, though, is clean and vibrant, and when mixed with a bit of Italian Parsley, it really comes alive. And while the Duck Confit disappoints, the combination of the oozing Egg Yolk, Frisee, Italian Parsley, fresh cracked Black Pepper and Potatoes is spot-on. But if given the choice, I'd rather have Huckleberry's Duck Hash which is similar to this, but much better in terms of the Duck and combination of flavors.


I remember reading some positive Chowhound posts for the Turkey Burger, so I couldn't wait to try that as well. :) Their Organic Turkey Burger with Tomato Confit is served with Herbed Fries (or an Arugula Salad).


It looks innocent enough, with some heavy grill marks and nice charring, but then you take a bite and the little bit of initial disappointment from the too dry Brioche Bun gives way to this completely juicy, salty-sweet Organic Turkey patty that's simply excellent! :) Hints of Sage and Pepper dance around the mouth with juicy chunks of Turkey and Tomato Confit that's been mixed into the burger patty itself. Brilliant. It's easily the best Turkey Burger I've had in L.A. (^_^)




Sadly, however, on my 5th visit, I excitedly order it again for another guest and it turns out to be totally different: Dry and burnt with very few bits of Tomato Confit mixed into the patty, which resulted in a much more typical Turkey Burger that was far removed from the amazing experience I had previously.




The Herbed Fries are disappointing, though, with them being fried at the wrong temperature: They're completely soaked and saturated with oil.


For my 2nd visit, I had some dear guests visiting from out-of-town, and I thought dinner at Tavern might be the right fit. We arrive a few minutes early for our reservation and we're seated immediately. As obvious as it may sound, it's amazing what a difference the lack of sunlight makes on a dining room, and Tavern is completely transformed into a more mood-soaked, elegant space at night.



We start off with their Cipollini and Fourme D'Ambert Tart with Roasted Grapes and Saba.


I'm normally not a Blue Cheese fan, but the Fourme D'Ambert provides just the right amount of mild pungency to the delicious flaky crust from the Tart. The Roasted Grapes help to round out the dish, giving a light sweetness. This was everyone's favorite dish of the evening.

Their Seared Scallops and Bacon Squash Soup arrives next.


The Scallop tastes very fresh, bursting with a natural sweetness and cooked just right. The Bacon is waterlogged from sitting in the soup too long, and the Squash Soup itself is too dense and thick, getting closer to a thick stew than a soup.


Up next is the Branzino, Shellbeans, Haricots Verts and Gremolata Butter.


The Branzino has a great crust, helping establish a beautiful interplay between the crispy Branzino skin and the mild, herbal, succulent, juicy fish beneath. I found the Gremolata Butter to give just the right amount of accent to this dish, while 2 of my guests found the Branzino to be underseasoned.


Those wanting something bolder might consider the next dish: Braised Chicken Basquaise, Prosciutto, Polenta and Green Olives.


The Roasted Sweet Red Peppers and Green Olives complement each other well for a good balance of sweet and piquant, but if you get a mouthful of Chicken, Prosciutto and Olives (without the Polenta and Peppers), the dish quickly becomes too salty and pungent. The Chicken itself is moist and has a slightly crisped skin to help partially save this dish.


One of my guests is a huge Lamb fan (as well as myself :), so we were most looking forward to their Braised Lamb, Torchio, Rapini, Tomatoes and Ricotta Salad.


Sadly, this turns out to be the worst dish of the evening: The Lamb is dense, chunky and dry. The very rich Red Wine Sauce that the Lamb is braised in, covers and overpowers everything else in the dish. And the Torchio Pasta is undercooked (not even al dente).

The side of Gnocchi fare better.


Mixed with Swiss Chard, Parmesan Bread Crumbs, Thyme and Lemon, the Gnocchi taste rather straightforward; nothing to really set one's heart on fire.

The last of our dishes is the Pork Confit, Sweet Potatoes, Spinach, Bacon and Romesco.


Normally just the idea of "Pork Confit" (Pork slow-cooked in its own fat :), should be enough to set people's hearts aflutter and should automatically equal "instant winner" for a great dish, but unfortunately, like the Lamb, their Pork Confit falters as well. The Pork Confit is surprisingly firm and chunky, with no signs of long, slow-cooking at all. It's also overly salty and the Romesco doesn't help (it only seems to accentuate the sodium factor).

Sadly, the highlight of this dish are the Caramelized Sweet Potatoes which have this perfect crust and pure, natural sweetness shining through. Excellent.


During another visit, my guest is craving an Almond Croissant, and I'm curious how this will turn out.


The Tavern's Almond Croissant looks like decadent overkill. I suppose it shouldn't surprise me since their Pecan Sticky Bun with Bacon is far more extreme than this, but my guest and I were both hoping for something more toned down (and normal) for an Almond Croissant.

But we press on and sadly our fears become reality: The White Sugar Frosting is even thicker than it looks, and when added with the intense and sweet Almond Paste filling, it results in pure saccharin overload. :(

The first of our brunch items arrive at this point: Pumpkin Pancakes with Toasted Pecans and Spiced Syrup.


The Pancakes are soft, pillowy mounds infused with Pumpkin and topped with cooked Pumpkin and Pecans. The nutty and earthy flavors of the Pecans and Pumpkin, along with the Maple Syrup, make this a pretty decent version of Pancakes worth considering.


Hoping for something as good as their Turkey Burger (during my 1st visit), we order their Pork, Pork, Pork Burger with Machego and Romesco.


The Pork Burger (made primarily of Ground Pork Shoulder) looks absolutely delicious when it arrives, with the Manchego Cheese melted and oozing down the side of the burger. :) But it's surprisingly bitter(!), which I guess is the kitchen using burnt Garlic in the Romesco perhaps. Overlooking the bitterness, the Pork patty itself isn't very porky; it's flat, slightly dried out and crumbly.



The Arugula Side Salad turns out to be too astringent, with too much lemon and vinegar.

One nice surprise at Tavern is their selection of premium Teas. Their Lemon Chamomile Tea is noteworthy: Fragrant, floral, soothing with a smooth mouthfeel.



The Ham and Cheese Croissant turns out to be (thankfully) normal, and not bathed in excess (like their Almond Croissant). It's light, flaky with a decent Ham and Cheese combination; nothing amazing, but it satisfies a craving if you're in the mood for one.



But if there's one must-order item for brunch, it might very well be their House-made Sausage Patties.


The fresh-made Sausage Patties are truly unctuous, oozing with flavor and beautiful aromas. The Fried Sage Leaves add a nice finishing facet to a great brunch item. :)


The Brisket Hash with Fried Eggs and Horseradish Cream arrives next.


The Brisket Hash is served in a Red Wine Reduction and leans on the saltier side of things. Some pieces of the Brisket are quite tender and very juicy, but the edge pieces are completely dry and overcooked.

And like some of the other dishes at Tavern, this dish only comes together (partially) when you mix all the components together: Breaking the Egg Yolk, taking a more tender piece of Brisket along with the delightfully smooth and creamy Horseradish Cream really helps to even out the saltiness and unevenness.


On the opposite side of the spectrum is their The Tavern "Benedict" with Prosciutto and Meyer Lemon.


It's light and creamy, and while the Poached Eggs are cooked just right and complement the Prosciutto and Frisee, it's the brilliant use of Meyer Lemon that adds a real brightness to a normally heavy dish. Delicious. :)


We finish off with a simple Oatmeal Raisin Cookie from the bakery. It tastes fresh, but is far too sweet.


During my 5th visit, my guest is feeling like a burger, so we decide to stop in and try Tavern's Niman Ranch Beef Burger with Fontina.


The Niman Ranch Burger arrives medium-rare to medium in doneness and is juicy, but there's not very much beefy flavor coming through. Even worse, though, is that the Cheese is unmelted. :( Ultimately, it's not going to topple Father's Office, The Golden State or Umami anytime soon.



Over the course of my 5 visits, service has been consistently slow. Even on visits where there's only ~20% of the dining room full, our servers have seemed content to take a relaxed, painfully slow pace throughout our meals. When we do see our servers, they are generally cordial and address our needs in due time. Pastries run from $3 - $6; Breakfast and Brunch from $3.75 - $24; and Dinner from $11 - $39. We averaged about ~$38 per person (including tax and tip), with dinner being naturally higher than daytime visits.


When looking at Tavern, one should consider expectations: Are you looking for a neighborhood "tavern" or "pub" to grab some food and drinks, where the emphasis is more on company and alcohol than great food? Or are you looking for the Westside's version of Lucques since Chef Suzanne Goin is attached to the project? From the lavish (but understated) space, with a larder and bakery, full bar, inner dining room and beautiful atrium, along with serving breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and bar menus, it's clear that partners Styne and Goin are looking to go beyond a typical tavern establishment. And in that regard, Tavern is ultimately disappointing.

It's ultimately on the level of food execution and consistency that Tavern disappoints the most. I've had the best Turkey Burger I've ever had in my life on one visit, and on another, the Turkey Burger is burnt, dried out and a shadow of its former self. On one visit, their Croissant is flaky and airy, and on other visits they're overcooked and slightly burnt. Some dishes show flashes of brilliance - The Tavern "Benedict" with Meyer Lemon is excellent! And the Pecan Sticky Bun Suzanne-style with Bacon is sexy decadence worth celebrating - but too many dishes fail to match those highlights (such as their Pork Confit, Braised Lamb and Pork Burger). One of my servers confided that they have "a few chefs" rotating and working the kitchen on different days. That may be one of the reasons for the unevenness. And sadly, like other new ventures from celebrated chefs who aren't in the kitchen cooking the dishes themselves, Tavern is in need of greater quality control from its creator (Chef Goin) and a better protege to take care of the restaurant when the founder isn't around.

Rating: 6.7 (out of 10.0)

Tavern (by Suzanne Goin)
11648 San Vicente Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90049
Tel: (310) 806-6464

Hours: Sun - Thurs, 8:00 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Fri - Sat, 8:00 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.

http://www.tavernla.com/

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