A Taste of Yucatan To Go (and Home of the Giant Tamal Pie) - La Flor De Yucatan

There's something endearing about the humble Tamal (Steamed Masa usually with some type of filling). Peeling back the Banana Leaf (or Corn Husk) exterior and digging into the fresh steamed Corn Dough with a bit of meat is the definition of simple comfort food. :) I ran across La Flor De Yucatan in my search for great Tamales around So Cal: I still remember Dommy recommending the Yucatecan Tamales there, and then Hershey Bomar and Dommy's discussion on their "Giant Tamales" (Mukbil-Pollo) pushed my curiosity over the edge. :) Over the past year, I've come to enjoy many of La Flor De Yucatan's offerings; a good, inexpensive place to stop by and pick up some Yucatecan dishes to go.


Situated near the 10 Freeway and Hoover, La Flor De Yucatan is primarily a bakery, offering up a nice selection of various breads and pastries throughout the day. But in addition to the baked goods, they offer up a selection of classic dishes from Yucatan, Mexico. Being a bakery they don't really have a dine-in area, but they do offer 2 picnic tables in the back for anyone wanting to eat on site.


Currently helmed by Chef Marc Burgos, La Flor De Yucatan originally started in the 1960's by Marc's father, Antonio Burgos and his wife Rosy. Learning from his father and various relatives in the Yucatan, Marc Burgos has developed a solid, savory Yucatecan menu, with most items being offered on the weekends or for catering events (they still offer about half the menu during weekdays).

Since my first visit - about a year ago - La Flor De Yucatan has just finished putting their final touches on a remodeling of their storefront, just in time for their 35th Anniversary come January. The new outdoor sign and interior adjustments have made the quaint, warm bakery a bit more modern, but still as inviting as before.



During my first visit, we order a variety of items starting with their Panucho (Fried, Crispy Hand-made Tortilla filled with Black Beans, topped with Lettuce, Shredded, Charbroiled Turkey, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Avocado and Pickled Red Onions).


The Shredded, Charbroiled Turkey is fresh, albeit a bit too dry, but it's the combination of their Turkey with the earthy Hand-made Tortilla stuffed with Black Beans, and the Pickled Onions that helps bring this dish together.


Probably the most famous dish from Yucatan is Cochinita Pibil (Pork marinated in Achiote and Sour Orange Juice, wrapped and baked in Banana Leaves), and La Flor De Yucatan's version is the best I've tried in L.A. so far.


Chef Burgos uses Suckling Pig for his version, and the tenderness of the Pork is immediately apparent (even over the polished version at Chichen Itza). It's juicy with a slight tang from the citrus juice, and when eaten with a bit of their Pickled Onions, and their Frijoles (Pureed Black Beans) and Hand-made Tortillas, it's one of the highlights of their menu. :)


La Flor De Yucatan offers up 2 types of Yucatecan Tamales (every day of the week): A Vaporcito and Colado.


Their Vaporcito is an Achiote Tamal made with a mix of Pork, Chicken and Achiote, wrapped in a Banana Leaf and Steamed.


Tamales come in many varieties, and for those that enjoy a more solid, denser Masa mixture, the Vaporcito is for you. The flavors of the Pork, Chicken and Achiote are clear and focused, but the Masa is a bit too packed for my tastes. But to their credit, the 3 different times I've ordered the Vaporcito, it's been consistent in its delivery.



But it's their Colado (Moist, Soft Tamal made with Pork, Chicken and Achiote Sauce, wrapped in a Banana Leaf and Aluminum Foil, then Steamed) that's really worth stopping by for.


While the description sounds very similar to the Vaporcito Tamal, the difference is that Marc Burgos cooks the Masa with Water and then strains it, using only the finest remaining portion of the Masa to make their Colado. The result is a wonderfully delicate, moist, supple Tamal that's light and delicious. :) It's been generally consistent, although once during the 3rd visit (with Man Bites World), the Colado came out a touch underseasoned, but on my 4th visit, it was back to being just spot-on delightful. :)


I'm a huge fan of Guava, so when I was peeking over the bakery racks and noticed "Pastelito de Guayaba" I immediately ordered one, thinking it would be a simple Pastry with Guava filling.


Unfortunately (my own fault for not asking first), the Pastelito de Guayaba turns out to be using Guava Jam, and not fresh Guava. The Pastry itself is slightly doughy and soft, and the Guava Jam is primarily sugary with almost no hint of actual Guava fruit.


On another visit, La Flor De Yucatan is offering up Lomitos de Valladolid (Pork Tenderloin and Pork Leg with Fire-Roasted Tomatoes, Garlic, Blond Peppers and Achiote) as their daily special.


The Lomitos is lightly spicy, surprisingly sweet and a bit too straightforward. I enjoy the slowly stewed Pork, but the flavors seem to fall a bit short, with it tasting heavily of the Fire-Roasted Tomatoes and little else.

According to our friendly server, one of the most popular bakery items is their Hojaldra ("Traditional Yucatan Bread" - Pastry stuffed with Ham & Cheese, covered with a flaky, sugary crust).


Taking a bite, the Hojaldra's dough tastes a little undercooked, with it tasting literally like the sum of its parts: A sweet doughy pastry with some Ham and Cheese flavors mixed with Sugar. It's a little odd for my palate, but after taking the Hojaldra home and baking it for ~10 minutes, the remaining undercooked dough taste I had sensed earlier is gone, and the Hojaldra turns into a happy, toasty, pastry with the cheese slightly melting and combining nicely with the crisped crust.


Their Polcanes (Corn Dough Patty stuffed with Lima Beans, Crushed Chilies and Pumpkin Seeds) is a delicious vegetarian offering that I've enjoyed more than most of their meat dishes.


The thick Corn Dough Patty is hearty and nutty with the Lima Beans and Pumpkin Seeds stuffing, and when mixed with the Crushed Chilies, Cilantro, Pickled Onions, Cabbage and Tomato Sauce, there's a great combination of flavors that results from it all.


Served on weekends, their Relleno Negro (Boneless Turkey with Pork Meatballs simmered in Chirmole (Dark Roasted Pepper Sauce), seasoned with Epazote, Bell Peppers and Tomato) is a delight, and shows off Marc Burgos' cooking.


They offer the Relleno Negro as a full Plate, or in Taco form, with both ways complementing the juicy, deep funk of long-stewed Turkey in the obsidian Chirmole Sauce. There's a heady slow burn that accompanies every bite of this enjoyable dish.


But out of their weekend offerings, I'd have to say that their Morcilla (Traditional Old World Pork Blood Sausage, with Mint and Mayan Spices) is my favorite.


Growing up, I was never a fan of Black Pudding / Boudin Noir (or any congealed Blood foods), but the homemade version at La Flor De Yucatan is a real treat: Spicy, floral, savory with a touch of sweetness, it features none of the heavy liver/organ-like taste you might be expecting. Surprisingly wonderful. :)


Another weekend offering is their Escabeche (Roasted Garlic Turkey sauteed with Onions and Banana Peppers).


The Escabeche is a mild, juicy Turkey dish: Sauteed Onions, Garlic and Turkey come to the forefront, with a very light burn from the Banana Peppers. It's enjoyable, but it's not something I find myself craving.


Their Kibbeh (Fried Meatballs with Cracked Wheat, Mint and Spices, topped with Pickled Red Onions) is another standout item.


As much as I enjoy most of Chichen Itza's offerings, La Flor De Yucatan's Kibbeh is more refined and balanced. The flavor of the Ground Beef with Cracked Wheat is fragrant and the texture and frying technique come across better here. However, it might be better to ask for the Pickled Onions on the side, as you need only a tiny bit of them with each bite before it completely overpowers the dish. By itself, the Kibbeh is wonderful. :)

As a point of comparison to their Relleno Negro, I decide to try their Relleno Blanco / Alcaparrado (Boneless Roasted Garlic Turkey with Pork Meatballs simmered in White Sauce, Seasoned Blond Peppers, Onions, Tomatoes, Capers, Green Olives and Raisins).


There are 2 pieces of Turkey Bone accidentally left in my portion, but besides that hiccup, their Relleno Blanco is much more mild and tame than their Relleno Negro. With the long list of ingredients, it comes out a touch disappointing, with the flavors mainly being that of the slow-cooked Turkey, Pork Meatball and Onions and Blond Peppers than anything else.


But the one thing that has caught my eye since the first time is their Pib dish. Officially called Mukbil-Pollo (Pib), it's a Baked, Pie-like Tamal, filled with Creamy Red Sauce, Vegetables, Pork and Chicken, it's offered by 5-day advanced order only, due to the preparation time.


I remembered the early discussion between Hershey Bomar and Dommy about this "giant tamal" but I had no idea it'd be as gigantic as it turned out to be. :) Thankfully we had enough people to share it, but suffice to say it can easily serve ~10 - 12+ people.


La Flor De Yucatan offers up this dish Baked or Unbaked (if you want to cook it at home at a later date), and we opted for them to cook it for us. I'm not sure what the final outer crust is supposed to taste like (in terms of doneness), but it tasted overcooked, with the bottom and side edges being really hard and nearly inedible. The Masa (Cornmeal Dough), being slow baked for hours, formed into a very dense outer edge.


But thankfully the majority of it (~90% of the inside and top crust) was moist and savory. The majority of the filling was a marinated Pork and Chicken mixture in Achiote, Masa and a thick Red Sauce (made from Garlic, Epazote, Pepper, Tomatoes). The Espalon (Black-eyed Peas) and Bell Peppers added a nice textural contrast. I remember Dommy describing the one she had as having Eggs in it, and when I called back La Flor De Yucatan, they mentioned that they could make their Pib with whatever ingredients the customer wanted (including Eggs), but their standard offering didn't include Eggs. Overall, everyone generally enjoyed it, but their standard offering of simple Pork, Chicken and Masa, made it taste like a giant baked "Tamal" more than anything. If we order this next time, I'd want to get suggestions on additional ingredients to layer in to add more depth to it.


Being a simple (literal) corner bakery, La Flor De Yucatan's service has been just fine: You walk up to the bakery counter and place your order and pay for it at the same time. You can also phone ahead so that they'll have your order ready for you when you arrive, if time is short. And while their normal menu is enjoyable, there are some absolutely delicious-looking dishes on their Catering Menu that is unfortunately not offered in individual portions - items like Dzotobichay (Chaya Tamal filled with Roasted Ground Pumpkin Seeds and Chopped Hard Boiled Eggs, Zesty Tomato Sauce and wrapped in Banana Leaves), Pierna de Puerco (A Whole Slow-Roasted Leg of Pork that serves 50-60 people(!)), etc. - (our server mentioned that they would love to offer all the Catering Menu dishes regularly, but they don't generate enough foot traffic to make it worthwhile).

Prices range from $1.50 - $5 for most items, with the Catering Menu items being more. Their Mukbil-Pollo (Pib) is $30.

With the sad closing of Chichen Itza's sit down restaurant on 6th Street, there are fewer places to enjoy Yucatecan cuisine around downtown L.A. But thanks to the efforts of places like La Flor De Yucatan, one can still enjoy some of the traditional delights from Yucatan like the juicy, long-stewed Cochinita Pibil Pork, or the silky, smooth Colados Tamales. While it's currently primarily a Take-Out Only location, I'm hoping they get enough foot traffic to start offering all of their Catering Menu items on a full-time basis in a restaurant setting. :)

Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)

La Flor De Yucatan
1800 S. Hoover Street
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Tel: (213) 748-6090

Hours: Mon - Fri, 7:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Sat - Sun, 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

http://www.laflordeyucatan.net/

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Deep Fried Skewer Madness - L.A.'s New Kushiage Specialist - Horon

The crackle and pop of hot oil. The sizzle as meats and vegetables are placed into the deep fryer. There are few things that are as instantly appealing as something deep fried. :) Fried Chicken, French Fries, the list goes on. That belief has given rise to an entire Japanese sub-cuisine known as Kushiage (pronounced Koo-Shee-Ah-Geh (hard "G")), whose popularity in Osaka is second to none. But in the States, this sub-cuisine hasn't gained the popularity or foothold that other facets of Japanese cuisine have (such as Sushi or Yakitori), but with the opening of Horon in L.A., a true Kushiage Specialist, perhaps that might start to change.


Kushiage is a cuisine based on deep fried skewers of various meats, vegetables and seafood. It's almost like a more earthy cousin to Yakitori / Kushiyaki, which are grilled skewers of chicken, other meats and vegetables. With Kushiage restaurants being very rare in L.A., I wrangled some of my Kushiage-deprived Hounds and off we went to try Horon.

During my 1st visit, Horon was barely 1 week old (as of today, it's been open exactly 2 weeks), and the restaurant was already packed with the locals "Kanpai!"-ing away with their extensive Shochu drink menu.


Glancing over their menu, and it's impressive how inexpensive everything is: Over 80% of their Kushiage (Deep Fried Skewers) menu is $1 per skewer. We place an initial order and everyone's crossing their fingers hoping that the Kushiage will turn out good. :)

Our first item arrives on the recommendation of our waitress (who says it's one of the most popular items on the menu): Truffle Potatoes.


These are hefty chunks of Potatoes lightly fried once, so it's soft, and only barely crisped, topped with Blue Cheese and Truffle Oil. It seems like an out-of-place item for a traditional Kushiage restaurant, until one considers its head chef, Hiro Miura-san, a classically trained French Chef who had been working in Tokyo for over 10 years before heading to America to helm Horon. The Potato dish is interesting, a decent combination of Blue Cheese and Potato chunks with only light usage of Truffle Oil.

As our first traditional skewer arrives, we're provided 3 types of condiments to pair with the skewers throughout the evening: Hawaiian Pink Sea Salt w/ Lemon, Housemade Tonkatsu Sauce and Dijon Mustard.


Over the course of my 3 visits, I've enjoyed most of the skewers plain, or with a dab in the Lemon & Hawaiian Pink Sea Salt. The Housemade Tonkatsu Sauce is interesting, but a bit too watery and heavy on the Worcestershire for my tastes.

The first skewer to arrive is their: Kani no Isobeage (Crab Wrapped in Seaweed).


The breading (used for the majority of the Kushiage items) is a traditional mixture of Panko, Flour and Eggs. Taking a bite, there's a nice crispy crunch, with a fresh clean oil taste (Chef Miura uses Rice Bran Oil), giving way to the Crab wrapped in Nori (Seaweed). Unfortunately, the Nori overpowers the Crab, so you mainly taste some crispy batter and Nori.

Their Shiitake Tsukune (Shiitake Mushrooms and Marinated Ground Chicken Meatball) is much better, with a delicious balance of the unmistakable Shiitake Mushroom fragrance and a juicy blend of Ground Chicken.


Our next batch of skewers arrive at this point. (Note: In order to keep the Kushiage skewers as piping hot as possible, order in small batches; it's understood and welcome to keep adding skewers throughout the night.)


We begin with their Shishito Nikuzume (Shishito Peppers filled with Meat).


Miura-san takes fresh Shishito Peppers and stuffs them with lightly seasoned Ground Chicken. The balance is spot-on, with the lightly spicy Shishito and moist, juicy Chicken and good breading all coming together for a bit of crunchy, fragrant and meaty in one bite. Delicious. :)

Their Sake Ikura no Se (Salmon with a Dash of Salmon Roe) doesn't fare as well.


The idea is sound in principal - taking a chunk of fresh Salmon and deep frying it and topping it with some Salmon Roe - but in execution, the Salmon is overcooked, and the tiny dab of Ikura (Salmon Roe) isn't enough to spread over the whole skewer.

Their Ebi Shinjyo (Shrimp Cake) finds the right balance: Soft, fluffy, fresh-tasting Shrimp with just the right touch of the ocean.


It's always nice to be able to find good Korokke (Croquette), so I was pretty excited to see how a skewer version of a Korokke would turn out from Chef Miura, with their Mentai Jyaga Korokke (Potato Croquette with Spiced Cod Roe).


The Potato within is finely pureed, but sadly, there's almost no perceptible Mentaiko taste; it tastes mainly like a plain, deep fried Potato Croquette.

Their Hotate Bata- (Scallop with Butter) forgoes the usual Panko breading, and is the better for it: A fresh Scallop with a very light Butter marinade, it's a pleasurable, deep fried bite of sweetness.


One of their signature items is the Buta Bara Negima (Pork Belly and Welsh Onion).


On the 1st visit, it's stunningly delicious: A perfect bite of buttery, delicious Pork Fat, Skin and Lean Meat, very fresh and satisfying. :) During my 3rd visit, it's a bit more inconsistent, with one chunk of the skewer being all Lean Meat (and slightly dry), with another chunk being 100% Fat. If they can get each skewer more evenly balanced, this will be a must order.

Another one of the items from their signature menu arrives at this point: Tsukune (Chicken Meatballs).


It's perfectly fried, crispy batter with tender, juicy, Marinated Ground Chicken, nicely done, but in the realm of "Tsukune" interpretations, I prefer a Yakitori / grilled style more.

Their Buna Shimeji no Nikumaki (Buna Shimeji Mushrooms Meat Wrap) arrives next.


The Shimeji Mushrooms seem to get lost against the salty, smoky Bacon. The other problem is that the Bacon is steamed in the batter, instead of getting crisped, which results in a soft, savory, juicy skewer that's delicious, but clashes with expectations on what Bacon in a deep fried dish would taste like.

The last of our items appear at this point: Jidori Ume (Jidori Chicken with Plum Sauce).


I adore Ume (Japanese Plum), and was hoping to get a good burst of the fruity, tart, aromatic Ume with this skewer, but like the Ikura (Salmon Roe) problem earlier, there's just not enough of the Ume to spread around for the whole skewer. The Chicken itself is fine, still juicy and lightly seasoned.

During my 2nd visit, we start with their Aburi Atsugiri Chashu (Grilled Chashu BBQ Pork, Thick Cut).


Besides the Kushiage menu, Horon also features a few Small Plates items, and their Chashu seems to be pretty popular. The Chashu off the grill looks a little menacing, cooked with deep, obsidian char marks throughout each piece. Unfortunately this "Chashu" turns out to be the unevenly balanced Pork Belly from earlier, with all of the pieces being almost all Pork Fat only. It's a little off-putting, but looking beyond the balance issues, the heavy use of Shichimi Togarashi (a blend of 7 spices) and Salt mutes the potential buttery charm of this dish.


Our first batch of skewers arrive now, mostly from their vegetables skewer menu.


The Naganasu Miso (Eggplant with Miso Flavor) features soft, silky, tender portions of Eggplant with a wonderful Miso paste that's so earthy and savory it should be used in more of their skewers (but sadly, it isn't).


Their Ingen Mame Be-kon (Green Beans Bacon Wrap) exhibits a strange earthy funkiness, with the smoky, salty Bacon dominating the skewer (not that there's anything wrong with more Bacon, but just noting). :)


But then on their Mini Tomato Be-kon (Mini Tomatoes Bacon Wrap), the sweet and lightly tart Tomatoes are just perfect with the Bacon and breading.


And then with their Guri-n Asupara no Be-kon Maki (Green Asparagus Bacon Wrap), another classic pairing shines through: A strong, but pliable Asparagus stalk stands up well to the Bacon wrapping, and makes for a one of the better Kushiage skewers on the menu.


The next batch of skewers arrive soon after, and I start with their Marugoto Ninniku (listed as "Garlic Garlic" on the menu).



As you break open the crust, you're quickly reminded of why it's known as "the stinking rose," as a pungent burst of trapped Garlic funk comes pouring out. :) It's tasty, but the trapped / steamed within Garlic and Breading is a bit overwhelming at times.

Their Unagi Katsu (Eel) is another skewer I was looking forward to.


The Unagi itself is soft and moist, but their Housemade Tare Sauce is too heavy and sweet.

Some items sound much better in writing than in execution, like their Kobe Harami (Kobe Beef Outside Skirt) from Kobe, Japan.


With most local restaurants serving "Kobe Beef" that's American or Australian Kobe, it's a pleasant surprise when actual Kobe Beef from Kobe, Japan is being served. Sadly, while there's a nice distinct beefiness and standout fattiness from the juices, it's been deep fried to well done, with a batter that seems far too rustic and rough for something as delicate as real Kobe Beef.

Taking a break from all their fried items, we try their Nana Shurui no Guri-nu Salada (Salad with Seven Kinds of Greens).


Ostensibly, it looks like a large plate of a pre-mixed Field Greens, but it happily turns out to be only some Field Greens, mixed with fresh Italian Parsley, Dill, Kaiware (Radish Sprouts), Arugula and chunks of Mandarin Orange. It's heavily overdressed, but looking past that, the actual Salad is engaging, refreshing and a nice green surprise at a deep fried skewer restaurant (just ask for them to go easy on the dressing).

Another unexpected, happy discovery is their Meibutsu Tezukuri Nameraka Tofu (Homemade Softer Tofu).


Chef Miura takes the time to make this Tofu dish from scratch, and the results couldn't be more wonderful! :) The Tofu is a thick custard consistency, reminding me of some of the amazing Yuba (Tofu Skin) creations in Kyoto than regular Tofu. The dollop of Uni on top complements the Tofu nicely.


Another of their Signature items arrives at this point: Motsu Tomato (Beef Tripe with Tomato Sauce).


The Motsu (Tripe) is just cooked through, leading a good textural contrast between the crunchy exterior and the soft, pliable Tripe itself. The Tomato Sauce is lightly sweet and just a touch spicy.


Their "Unigiri" (Sea Urchin Onigiri (Rice Ball)) arrives warm (nice touch), but sadly, the Rice itself is just a bit too dry (using a mediocre grain of Rice), and with very meager Uni portions within the Rice Ball itself.


Another of their interesting-sounding dishes is their Kare- Pan (Curry Filled Bread).


Traditionally, a Kare- Pan is a decent-sized, Fried Bun with Curry inside. So at Horon, they interpret that into a bite-sized portion of a Bun, which sounds like a great idea, but falters, with an overly dense Bread, and flat, salty Curry within.


We finish up this 2nd visit with their Kisetsu no Konpo-to (Compote of Seasonal Fruits).


Featuring Kaki (Persimmon), the Compote is decent, but nothing to write home about. The Vanilla Ice Cream seems like a throwaway in this dish, and its sweetness overwhelms the natural Kaki's sweetness.

For my 3rd visit, their Uzura ni Tamago (Quail Eggs) makes for an excellent starter. Creamy, earthy and simply delicious. :)


Next up is their Ginnan (Gingko Nut) skewer.


The Ginnan is so fragrant, smelling of wild fields, slightly nutty and delicious! :) But the one complaint I have is that 1 order comes with 2 absolutely *tiny* Gingko Nuts (smaller than a Peanut out of the shell). While it's understandable that the restaurant has to manage their costs for these $1 skewers, it feels really paltry in this case (most of the other skewers are just fine with their portions).

The Mentai Chikuwa (Chikuwa Fish Cake with Spicy Cod Roe) is another dish that reflects a bit of the excessive frugality of the restaurant.


Like their Mentai Korokke earlier, with this dish, you taste the base flavor (here it's the Chikuwa (Fish Cake), in an average, dense interpretation), with no taste of the Mentaiko (Spicy Cod Roe) at all.

But things bounce back nicely with their Ebi no Ippon (Amaebi Sweet Shrimp).


If Shrimp Heads leave you queasy, then feel free to skip it, but otherwise, bite into a perfectly deep fried, crispy creation that's intensely oceanic and delicious. Then getting to the body, it's really fresh and sweet, and a great skewer overall.

Their Lobusta- Tsume (Maine Lobster Claw) sounds like another winner.


The Maine Lobster meat is pure and fresh, but the breading overwhelms the delicate meat unfortunately.

What has to be the strangest dish that on paper sounds like it would never work, the Yamaimo Uni (Japanese Mountain Yam with Sea Urchin) arrives at this point.


But taking a bite, there's an immediate crispness from the Yamaimo (Japanese Mountain Yam) with a suppleness, with the Uni blending surprisingly well, creating this slightly creamy, succulent, crisp bite of happiness. :)

Their Renkon Uni (Lotus Root with Sea Urchin) suffers the same fate as their Gingko Nuts earlier: Surprisingly meager portions really take away from this dish. I realize Renkon is a bit pricier than other vegetables, but serving 1/5 of 1 thin slice of Lotus Root sounds like it's part of a satire on a bad fancy restaurant with minuscule portions. I'd rather they move this to the $2 menu and increase the portion size to something that's at least ~1/2 a bite instead of a tiny nibble the way it is currently.


Their Ika Uni no Se (Squid with Sea Urchin) suffers none of the problems of the previous dish.


There's a reason that Calamari is so popular, and in Kushiage form, the Ika is a perfect match. The Squid is fresh, properly cooked to a tender, slight toothsome quality, and the Uni lends a buttery, creamy aspect that really elevates this dish. Wonderful! :)

The last item from the Signature menu is the Jidori Chi-zu (Jidori Chicken with Cheese).


Using all-natural, free-range Chicken with Mozzarella and then deep frying the whole thing, it creates a beautiful mixture of gooey, cheesy, tender Chicken with a crispy coating.

Unlike their Potato Korokke earlier, the Panpukin Korokke (Pumpkin Croquette) shines with a lightly sweet, good Pumpkin puree balancing out the savory, crunchy crust. I'm normally not a fan of Pumpkin, but this works well.


The daily special for our 3rd visit is the Mu-ru Gai no Sake Mushi, which is Chef Miura's interpretation of the classic Moules Frites but without the Frites.


The Mussels themselves are briny, bright, but a little overcooked and tough in some pieces. It's also a touch salty, but to be fair, Chef Miura is probably taking into account the vast amounts of Shochu, Sake and Beer being consumed by most of the clientele (to balance out the saltiness). Still, it's a bit saltier than I had hoped, but otherwise a good dish.


Their Washugyu Tataki (Washugyu Super Prime Beef Tataki) is another disappointment, like their other Beef dish.


Another example where the idea is sound, this American Kobe Beef is too thickly cut, with every piece having 1-2 pieces of gristle that had to be spit out.

But perhaps the biggest surprise on the menu is something that seems the most out-of-place at a Kushiage restaurant: Tonkotsu Ramen (Tonkotsu (Pork Broth) Ramen).


Whatever the reason that motivated Miura-san to add his Homemade Tonkotsu (Pork Bone) Broth combined with thin, straight Hakata-style Noodles, I'm just thankful he added it. :) Miura-san's intensely porky, pungent Tonkotsu Broth is creamy and mouth-wateringly delicious, in many ways eclipsing some of the local Shin Sen Gumi Ramen broths.

The Hakata-style Noodles are overcooked, though, too soft at this point, but I'd imagine you can ask them to make it "Katamen" (hard noodles) when you order it.

The other detraction is their Chashu (Roasted Pork Slice) that comes with this Ramen: It's slightly undercooked, needing 1-2 more hours of slow roasting / braising to conquer the slight toughness of the Chashu as it was presented. It has a good, hearty flavor, with Shoyu (Soy Sauce) and Mirin flavors coming through, but the toughness made it fall short.

But I'd imagine with slightly more firm Noodles and that amazing Tonkotsu Broth, this is one mini bowl of Ramen that's worth seeking out. :)


Horon occupies a small retail space, with an L-shaped Bar area as well. For each of our 3 visits, they averaged ~2 servers per night, and Miura-san (or his assistant) at the Bar area. Service was adequate: Just flag down a server for whatever you need; I just wish they would make the rounds more often and check in on each table for refills on drinks / needs from time-to-time.

Prices are very reasonable: ~80% of the Skewer menu is $1 per skewer(!), with the remaining skewers being either $2 or $3. They have an Ippin menu that ranges from $1.80 - $4.80 for the most expensive item on the menu. We averaged about ~$17 per person (including tax and tip).

Horon represents a new Kushiage (Deep Fried Skewer) specialist in L.A., that features a wide variety of meats, vegetables and seafood in deep fried skewer form. While there are some missteps - some skewers have very "precious" portions; some items are overcooked; or some skewers' flavors just don't work - there are also quite a few dishes that shine, like their Asparagus Bacon skewer, Japanese Mountain Yam with Uni, Ika Uni no Se (Squid with Uni), and Tonkotsu Ramen.

If there is one thing that could deter from Kushiage really exploding in popularity, it's that, in general (for this whole sub-cuisine), nearly everything is coated in the same batter and deep-fried. As a result, everything has a familiar taste foundation, the same crunchy batter, and then, the inherent flavors of the rest of the ingredients start to come through. While I enjoy the succulent skewers of Yakitori more, I'm glad to have a Kushiage specialist as a dining option for some good variety. Add in the very reasonable prices, and the festive ambiance with free-flowing alcohol, and Horon is another great addition to the neighborhood. :)

Rating: 7.5 (out of 10.0)

Horon
2143 W. 182nd Street
Torrance, CA 90504
Tel: (310) 515-6147

Hours: 7 Days A Week, [Lunch] 11:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] 6:00 p.m. - 1:00 a.m. (12:30 a.m. Last Order).

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