Grassy, Spicy, Fragrant... Beer?! (And Some Great Food and Floats to Boot) - The Golden State

Ask the general public about "beer" and you're liable to get a full spectrum of reactions, from love to hate, with many only knowing of the mainstream breweries like Budweiser, Coors and Miller. And while we're seeing some smaller labels like Sierra Nevada or New Belgium (Fat Tire) popping up around town, there's a whole other world of microbrewed beers waiting to be discovered: Craft beers that are as engaging and aromatic as a mainstream beer is one note. The problem is how does one go about learning and trying all the interesting microbrews? L.A. is blessed with a few great beer havens (like Blue Palms), but it's only a smattering compared to the potential clientele to be served. So when The Golden State opened up earlier this year - a restaurant opened by genuine beer aficionados focusing on great microbrewed beers, good food, and featuring Scoops Gelato - it was a cause for celebration.


Located across the street from the wondrous Animal on Fairfax, The Golden State is the embodiment of a dream realized for co-owners Jason Bernstein and James Starr who've always wanted to open up a restaurant that they'd want to eat at personally, and that celebrated California. For the kitchen, they hired Chef Rene Garcia (from Rustic Canyon and Le Merigot), to create a simple, casual menu to enjoy alongside an ever-rotating roster of craft beers. And to top it all off, the excellent, creative flavors of a So Cal icon, Scoops Gelato by Tai Kim (which is reason enough to stop by :).


The Golden State's decor reflects the laid-back, casual style of the restaurant itself: A simple brick wall lining one side, ordering done at the register, and self-seating with the food brought out to your table, usually by one of the owners themselves.


During my first visit, in the mood to try some great microbrewed beers, I ask the person manning the register for some recommendations. That person turns out to be co-owner Jason Bernstein and after a few queries, he recommends the Stone Cali-Belgique IPA (India Pale Ale) on draft, from Stone Brewing Co. (Escondido, California).


With the first sip, a nice citrus floral aroma interweaves with the bitter hops. It's an IPA for sure, but the Belgian yeast and citrus flavors really shine. I've learned over this past year, that IPAs aren't my favorite, but this Cali-Belgique is one of the better IPAs I've ever tried on draft.

In the mood for more exploration, Jason recommends the Craftsman La Luz, a brand-new seasonal Saison / Golden Ale on draft that they just got in, from Craftsman Brewing Company (Pasadena, CA). There's a nice floral, herbal quality, refreshing and milder than what I thought a Saison would've been. But overall, another interesting, great recommendation from the staff of The Golden State.

But it's during my 2nd visit that really ignited my love for this place, starting with a rare offering: Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout on Nitrogen Tap(!), from North Coast Brewing Co. (Fort Bragg, CA).



There's a beautiful head, but then the taste: A sultry dark chocolate with a bit of coffee, and the Nitrogen Tap is amazing in giving off a silky, lighter mouthfeel. I wish more beers were offered on Nitrogen Tap with the sexiness in the Old Rasputin, but I've learned that most beers don't work well with this setup. The good news is that Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout on Nitrogen is one of the anchors at The Golden State (i.e., it won't get rotated out), and it's an excellent partner with Scoops Gelato. :)

Already stunned, I'm given another recommendation by Mr. Bernstein: Allagash Curieux, a Tripel aged in bourbon barrels, on draft from Allagash Brewing Company (Portland, Maine).


After the deep, chocolaty Old Rasputin, the Allagash Curieux was the perfect foil: A light, easy drinking beer, with pleasing vanilla notes, and smooth mouthfeel. I could drink this beer every day and not be tired with it. :) On a side note, while the vast majority of the menu is from California, the Allagash Curieux on draft from Portland, Maine, was too good not to put on the menu, according to Jason (the menu jokingly lists it as "kinda near California" :).

We move on to the AleSmith Grand Cru on draft, a Belgian-style Dark Ale from AleSmith Brewing Company (San Diego, CA).


It has a beautiful, deep amber / copper color, and has some nice stone fruit / cherry flavors coming through, reminding you of a Port in some ways.


As a comparison point, we try the humorously-named AleSmith Horny Devil on draft, a Belgian Strong Ale from AleSmith Brewing Co.


It's a potent beer, with an almost mead-like quality, some honey and fruit, and a surprisingly spicy finish. It's a little too much for my palate, but I'm glad I tried it.

On another visit, The Golden State is serving a new seasonal offering: Firestone Walker Lil' Opal Saison / Farmhouse Ale on draft, from Firestone Walker Brewing Company (Paso Robles, CA).


Made with leftover mash and Belgian Saison yeast, there's a bit of a barnyard funk, grassy, with a slight tang.


As interesting as their rotating craft beers on draft are, their food stands out as well. On one visit, we start out with a side of their Persian Cucumber Salad (served with Shahi and Lemon Vinaigrette).


There's a surprising floral aroma leading to some refreshing, crisp Cucumber slices. The Lemon Vinaigrette is a bit dull, but it also doesn't distract from the green vibrancy in the Cucumbers.

Their French Fries are served with a Housemade Hazelnut Romesco.


The Fries have generally been nicely crisped on the outside with a fluffy interior over multiple visits, but it's their Housemade Hazelnut Romesco that steals the show: A wonderful dipping sauce, made with Tomatoes, Roasted Bell Peppers and Hazelnuts, leading to a sweet, nutty, addictive quality. They also offer a Housemade Curry Ketchup (a sweeter, exotic sauce that's delicious), regular Ketchup and a variety of Mustards if you prefer.

Much has been made of The Golden State's Burger, with many calling it the greatest Burger in L.A., while others have met that fervor with their own strong counter-reaction claiming it's "terrible." Burgers are a very personal thing, so it's not surprising to see such a wide variety of reactions, from those that lift it up on the highest pedestal, to those that vehemently tear it down. Before tackling the Burger, I try to manage my expectations: It's a humble *Burger* on a menu, at a casual, simple eatery. It makes no pretenses that it's their "world-famous Burger!" for example, and is simply presented as: The Burger (Harris Ranch Beef, Fiscalini Farms Cheddar, Glazed Applewood Smoked Bacon, Arugula, Housemade Aioli & Ketchup).


The Burger arrives, served with a Rockenwagner Bun (from Rockenwagner Bakery (Santa Monica, CA)). Taking a bite, and it's a delicious combination of flavors: The medium-rare Wet-Aged Beef is juicy on the inside with a nice sear on the outside, lightly beefy, with the Fiscalini Cheddar matching well, and then the smoky salty-sweet of the Glazed Applewood Bacon, a little background note of pepperiness from the Arugula,and the lightly sweet Rockenwagner Bun finish things off properly. It's a very good Burger, but it depends on what one is looking for in a Burger. It's not the greatest Burger I've had in my life (pretty close :), but when I'm in the area hanging out with friends and wanting to enjoy a good Burger and Beer, this fits the bill nicely. Delicious. :)



The Burger (and all Sandwiches) come with a choice of one Side Dish, so we decide to try their Fried Sweet Potato Wedges (with Housemade Garlic Aioli).


These turn out to be truly what the menu states "Sweet Potato Wedges" and not "Sweet Potato Fries" which is what I mistakenly thought they were. In this recent craze spreading around L.A. / O.C., more and more places are adding Sweet Potato Fries to their menus, and I was thinking this was the same thing. Instead, these are hefty wedges that celebrate their primary ingredient: Sweet Potatoes. It's softer, moister and far more about eating a slice of Sweet Potato, than the more ubiquitous "sweet French Fry" (Sweet Potato Fries). I prefer the crispier Fry version, personally, but this is a solid choice for those who enjoy the Sweet Potato in a more concentrated state.

On Friday and Saturday nights only, The Golden State serves their Fish 'n Chips (Line-Caught, Wild Icelandic Cod Battered in Craftsman 1903 Lager).


The batter is crispy and puffy and the Icelandic Cod is tender, moist and flaky, and clean-tasting. It's one of the better Fish 'n Chips I've had this past year, and a nice change from the normal menu.


While waiting for the Fish 'n Chips, I decide to try their Angel City Dunkel on draft, from Angel City Brewing (Los Angeles, CA). It features a deep, rich, dark chocolaty taste with a decent finish.


And besides the Craft Beers on draft and food, The Golden State is the only outpost of the legendary Scoops Gelato from the ever-creative Tai Kim, owner and culinary artist of Scoops.


The beauty of this setup is that Scoops' owner personally delivers and creates new flavors daily, and the flavors are always interesting: On one night, you might find a Jim Beam Nutmeg Gelato, or a Blackberry Balsamic, or the most popular flavor, Brown Bread Gelato.

But perhaps the greatest fun to be had is in The Golden State's wonderful Beer Floats. Combining top-quality Craft Beers with Scoops Gelato is something so interesting and different, it's even caused Jonathan Gold to wax poetic about these creations. :) For our first try at these Beer Floats, we decide to try 2 flavors. First up is Scoops' Malt White Chocolate Mocha Gelato with Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout (on Nitrogen Tap).


It's a bit wild and off-putting at first: Your taste buds are expecting something like the more commonly found "Root Beer Float" - something sweet and ice creamy - but a Beer Float is something far different: The bitterness of the Old Rasputin really helps to act as a compelling foil to the sweetness of the Scoops Gelato. So instead of "sweet on sweet" (like a Root Beer Float), you get a nice contrast of "hops / bitterness / earthiness / grassy qualities on sweet" (from the Gelato). Once your taste buds get used to it, it's a delicious experience. (^_^) The Malt White Chocolate Mocha is a great pairing with the Old Rasputin.

We also try their more classic / original flavor pairing: Scoops' Brown Bread Gelato with Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout (on Nitrogen Tap).


The malty qualities from the Brown Bread work spot on with the similar qualities in the Old Rasputin. And due to the Nitrogen Tap, the silky, more refined bubbles from the Old Rasputin really blend well with the Brown Bread Gelato, to give a nice mouthfeel. :)

Of course, if you ever see them feature the other winning combination from the 1st Annual Beer Float Throwdown (earlier this year) - Scoops' Raspberry Yuzu with The Bruery's Hottenroth Berliner Weisse - forget what you were going to get and immediately place an order for this amazing combination that completely transforms your notion of what a Beer Float is all about. Simply outstanding! :)

On another visit, I stumble upon a new daily special featured only on Thursdays: The Golden State Lamb Burger (Colorado Lamb, Gruyere, Arugula, Applewood Smoked Bacon).


I love Lamb, so I'm excited to see how this Lamb Burger would turn out. Taking a bite...

Mouth-wateringly delicious! :)


A perfect medium-rare, with a beautiful char, the melted Gruyere Cheese serves as a great complement to the Colorado Lamb itself, which has a subtle, but distinct gaminess (in a good way), that stands the test of eating it straight by itself (with no toppings).

But adding in the Applewood Smoked Bacon, the pepperiness of the Arugula, a bit of Yogurt and Dill, and the light sweetness from the Rockenwagner Bun, and you have the makings of one of the best Lamb Burgers around town. :) (And thankfully, in the 3-4 times that I've ordered this Lamb Burger, it's always been consistently delicious.)


The California Greek Salad that's served with the Lamb Burger is a decent Salad, with Romaine, Capers, Feta Cheese, Kalamata Olives, Tomatoes, and a Creamy Lemon Vinaigrette. The flavor combination is spot-on, but it's been overdressed each time we've gotten it.

During my 6th visit, The Golden State is featuring Port High Tide IPA on draft, from Port Brewing Co. (San Marcos, CA).


Mr. Bernstein explains that this is a Wet Hopped Beer, available only for a few months during the Fall. It has a really fragrant nose, an initial bitterness, leading to a nice grassy, green, herbal taste. For an IPA this is really drinkable by itself, and a great pairing with their Lamb Burger.

The Golden State also features Let's Be Frank Hot Dogs and Sausages, which are grass-fed meat, free from nitrites, nitrates, hormones and antibiotics. I decide to try their Let's Be Frank Pork Bratwurst with Caramelized Onions and Sauerkraut.


For all of its all-natural, high profile exposure, the Let's Be Frank Bratwurst tastes like a good, lightly-spiced, standard Bratwurst. It's not bad, but it's nothing spectacular.


As with all their sandwiches and dogs, you get a choice of one side dish, and their seemingly simple, innocuous Potato Salad turns out to be one of the hidden highlights of their menu: The Golden State Potato Salad is made with Red Potatoes, Chives, Egg, Mayonnaise, Mustard and Shallots, and is easily the best Potato Salad I've had outside of homemade while growing up. The Red Potatoes are still firm, but have a nice pliability (not the usual overcooked mush). It's creamy, but not too heavy, with a great herbal undertone. Add to that, the crunch of fresh Shallots and it's a Potato Salad worth stopping by for. :)

For those looking for a lighter meal, their Chicken Sandwich (Grilled Chicken Breast with Arugula, Tomato and Homemade Aioli) fits the bill nicely.


The Grilled Chicken Breast is moist and lightly seasoned with Salt and Pepper, but it's the pairing with Arugula, Tomatoes and the Housemade Aioli on Breadbar Bread that makes it enjoyable.



For our next dish, Mr. Bernstein recommends the New Belgium Fall Wild Ale on draft, from New Belgium Brewing Company (Fort Collins, CO).


It's spicy, a little tart with some fruit, but there's a distinct barnyard funk when you finish a sip. It's unique and a little surprising, but the beauty of this Wild Ale is the great pairing with our next dish, BLTA (Glazed Applewood Smoked Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato, Avocado and Housemade Aioli).


Like many of their offerings, the simple, mundane names belie the greatness within: The Applewood Bacon is wonderfully crisp, crunchy and works perfectly in this classic combination with the fresh Lettuce, Tomatoes and Avocado. The Breadbar Ciabatta Bread tastes fragrantly fresh with a soft chew. It's arguably one of the best sandwiches on the menu. And with the great recommendation from the staff, the barnyard funk from the New Belgium Fall Wild Ale is completely removed when eaten with the BLTA. Excellent. :)


Their Jalapeno Cabbage Slaw (Shredded Red and Green Cabbage, Carrots, Jalapeno, Red Wine Vinaigrette) is a great choice for spice fiends.


It's a very light Slaw, with crisp, sharp vegetables, and a refreshing, welcoming spicy kick from the Jalapenos.

I finish off one of my latest visits with another seasonal, rare beer they just got in: The Bruery Two Turtle Doves, a Belgian-style Dark Ale on draft, from The Bruery (Fullerton, CA).


It's a deep, dark brew, and the flavors are incredible! Nutty, cocoa-y, chocolaty, it's a terrific holiday celebration beer and a nice "dessert" sipper. And it's a great pairing with many of the Scoops Gelato flavors available this evening. :)

I also try their Virgil's Root Beer on Draft(!), from Reed's (Los Angeles, CA).


While Virgil's is showing up more and more at markets around town, this is the first time I've had it on draft, and the difference is impressive: This all-natural Root Beer is just bursting with spices and bright effervescence, an incredible Anise flavor, with a great Wintergreen finish.

Service has been just fine for this type of informal restaurant: You order at the counter, take a number and find a table. It can be a little hectic at times, when they're at 100% capacity and you're waiting for a table, but the turnover is generally pretty fast, and the servers are always willing and able to assist you. It's especially nice since both co-owners (who also serve the food), can answer your questions about the various beers and make great recommendations.


Prices range from $3 - $10 for Food, $2 for a scoop of Scoops Gelato, $8 for a Beer Float, and most of these amazing Craft Beers on draft, from $5 - $9 a glass.


The Golden State represents a welcoming, easy-going entry-point into the fascinating world of Microbrewed / Craft Beers, with a constantly changing menu of interesting Beers on draft. In addition, their small, but focused menu of food items are expertly executed, with some great offerings (despite the simple-sounding names), like their amazing Colorado Lamb Burger, BLTA, Golden State Potato Salad and more. Add to that, the always interesting flavor combinations of Scoops Gelato, and it's easy to see why The Golden State draws a good crowd on most nights. And with co-owners / beer scholars Jason Bernstein and James Starr always willing to discuss the ins and outs of a great Tripel vs. a rare IPA vs. a Brandy Barrel-Aged Imperial Brown Ale and more, it's like getting a free beer crash course, along with some excellent craft brews and great food, all at reasonable prices in an informal setting. Recommended.

Rating: 8.3 (out of 10.0)

The Golden State
426 N. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Tel: (323) 782-8331

Hours: Tues - Sun, 12:00 p.m. Noon - 10:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays.

http://thegoldenstatecafe.com/

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Brilliantly Average - Bouchon Bistro (Beverly Hills)

As one of the most celebrated American chefs, Thomas Keller (of The French Laundry and Per Se fame) brings a certain excitement and dynamism wherever he goes. While the residents of Northern California and New York have been blessed with their taste of Thomas Keller's cooking, Angelenos haven't been so lucky. So when news of Thomas Keller opening up a restaurant in L.A. broke a while back, the hype and excitement started building. Unfortunately, it turned out that the new restaurant was part of his Bouchon lineup, a casual French bistro approach, as opposed to the precision and top-tier excellence of his most famous restaurants. Add to that, the reality that Chef Thomas Keller is not going to be cooking daily at this new Bouchon in Beverly Hills, and it's safe to say that L.A.'s Bouchon represents Thomas Keller as much as the "Wolfgang Puck's" chain represents Chef Wolfgang Puck. While this may seem obvious for some, it's important to note, as even on Opening Night at the new Bouchon, I overheard a table excited to try "Thomas Keller's cooking."


Bouchon Beverly Hills shares a courtyard with the Montage Hotel, a beautiful introduction for visitors to this new eatery.


Upon entering the 1st floor lobby, a receptionist sends us upstairs to Bouchon Bistro's waiting lounge. (There are currently plans to open a Bar Bouchon on the 1st floor sometime in mid-December, with a "simple bar menu" along with drinks, according to our server.)



As we're led to our seats, we encounter a fetching zinc bar, whose oval pattern houses both the alcoholic bar, and the fresh seafood on display. The main dining room itself is immediately accessible and gives off a good ambiance, with high ceilings, soft, but ample lighting, and a safe Pop / Jazz soundtrack.




During the 1st of my 3 visits, for Opening Night, there's a buzz in the air. Chef Thomas Keller made a guest appearance, and various fans of his could be seen running up to him to take pictures, or get his autograph for his cookbooks. Bouchon Beverly Hills is helmed by Chef de Cuisine Rory Herrmann who's worked under Chef Keller at Per Se and the other Bouchon locations.



But for those who still may not understand that Bouchon isn't the second coming of The French Laundry will know the moment they are seated: Your dinner menu is the napkin holder for your napkin, thin parchment paper folded up to hold the cloth. It's a simple, straightforward way to present "casual" to the diner, without words. For Opening Night, my 'dachi Noah of Man Bites World joins me, as we are curious and interested in seeing what Bouchon Beverly Hills would turn out to be.

After placing our order, we're presented with some of their house-baked bread: An Epi, along with White Bean Puree and Toasted Baguette Croutons.


The Epi is fragrant and fresh-tasting, with a soft interior. The White Bean Puree is garlicky, smooth, and a great alternative to the usual Butter / Olive Oil.

The first item to appear are Island Creek Oysters from Massachusetts.


The Island Creeks are salty, moderately briny, and decent, but they lack the brightness of really fresh Oysters.


Confit de Canard is one of the great classic dishes to look for whenever you visit a new French bistro or brasserie. Bouchon's Confit de Canard (Duck Leg Confit) is served with Brussels Sprouts and Whole Grain Mustard.


While the Duck Confit is juicy and moist on Opening Night, it's way too salty. The skin lacks the crispness you hope to have to play off the long-cooked meat itself. Very disappointing. :(

Bouchon's Frisee aux Lardons et Oeuf Poche (Frisee Salad with Lardons, Poached Egg, Bacon Vinaigrette & Toasted Brioche) rebounds nicely.


While the Frisee itself is a bit mild, the Poached Egg is perfectly cooked, and breaking the soft yolk and mixing it together with the Bacon Vinaigrette, Lardons and Frisee creates a delicious Salad.


But it's the next dish that is easily the highlight of Bouchon Beverly Hills: Terrine de Foie Gras de Canard, served with Toasted Baguette.


It looks innocent enough: A simple jar of what could be mistaken for a standard offering Terrine or Rillette of some sort. That is, until you take a bite.


Outstanding! (^_^)

At this point, Noah and I looked up at each other and we both had a stupid grin; the type of facial expression and inner feeling that comes from "This is just so absurdly, stupidly delicious that we might as well stop eating now because nothing else after this can top it"-type of experience. :)

Their Foie Gras Terrine is truly the embodiment of unctuous. Silky, creamy, buttery, pure sultry sexiness, and worth every penny of its $50 price tag. (FYI: It's also enough to feed ~5 people as a starter, easily.)



Our side order of Pommes Frites (French Fries) arrives at this point.


Perhaps our expectations were too high - they were strongly recommended by our server - but these Fries are slightly crispy, with most of them more limp and soggy than crisp. Being twice fried in a blend of five types of oil, including Sunflower, Canola, Sesame and Peanut Oil, you would think they would have more body to them.

It's a huge portion, but overall the limpness, mediocre frying technique and heavy salting of the Fries make it another disappointment. The choice of a Mustard-Mayo, Homemade Aioli and Ketchup is a nice touch, but not enough to save it.


I love Lamb, so I was really looking forward to Bouchon's Gigot d'Agneau (Roasted Leg of Lamb with Swiss Chard, Pommes Boulangere & Lamb Jus).


The Roasted Lamb is presented in thin slices and surprisingly bland. It's very mild, underseasoned and completely lacks the idiosyncratic flavor you would hope to find in a good Lamb dish. :(


The Pommes Boulangere is an interesting layering of thinly sliced Russet Potatoes with Caramelized Onions, Thyme and Garlic finished in the oven. It is (like many of Bouchon's dishes) heavily salted, too much so. Perhaps the intention of Chef Herrmann is to eat a piece of the undersalted Lamb with the extremely salty Potatoes (which actually works), but this kind of combination is more distracting than inspiring.


Their Choux de Bruxelles (Brussels Sprouts with Beurre Noisette) follows the trend of safe, middle-of-the-road cooking, with overly charred Brussels Sprouts infused with a good butteriness.

As we're leaving, I notice their charming outside dining area. The receptionist confirms that when they receive their heat lamps, they'll be opening up that section for walk-in diners.



On my 2nd visit, the Montage turns on their Christmas lights, which adds a nice, holiday atmosphere to dinner. :)



The restaurant is near capacity again and still energetic (like Opening Night), as my guests and I are being seated.


A note about their wine list: There are very few bottles under $50, with over half the wine list featuring bottles over $100. To help balance things out, they currently offer 22 wines by the glass.

Bouchon also features a rather extensive cocktail menu. We start with two of their signature cocktails, the first being The Promenade (Drambuie, St. Germain Elderflower, Champagne, Muddled Orange & Mint, Rocks). There's a good balance between the ingredients with a light, citrus-y, refreshing taste.


Their Punta Sal (Pisco 100, Basil, Strawberry, Angostura Bitters, Up) lacks a deft touch: While the Strawberry puree is immediately noticeable, the Basil is lost, and the beverage gets overpowered by too much Pisco, turning this into an uncomfortably astringent drink.


On this evening, my guests are big Oyster fans, so we start off with their Umami Oysters from Rhode Island.


The Umami Oysters turn out to be some of the worst Oysters I've had in the past year. There's a strong dirt taste and a very sharp briny aspect. There's also a bit of shell in 3 of our Oysters. Very disappointing.


Their Rillettes aux Deux Saumons (Fresh & Smoked Salmon Rillettes served with Toasted Croutons) continues the letdown.


Bouchon's Salmon Rillette uses Farmed Salmon and the result is an extremely salty, soil-accented pungency that made it inedible for one of my guests. The other guests and I power through a bit more, but in the end, we couldn't bring ourselves to eat more than 2-3 bites (and I hate wasting food). For reference, the Salmon Rillette at Palate Food + Wine (while not the best around) was far more enjoyable.

The next dish helped to partially save the evening: Salade de Betteraves et Poires (Marinated Beet & Poached Pear Salad with Toasted Hazelnuts, Garden Mache & Sherry Vinaigrette), with optional Goat Cheese (which we went with).


The Marinated Beets are stunningly delicious: Tender, earthy with a distinct shine, they're paired nicely with the Poached Pears, which add a fruity, complementary counterpoint. The Goat Cheese used for this dish is a bit too powerful (and I love Goat Cheese :), but it still works. The problem, however, is with the Macadamia Nuts. They apparently ran out of Hazelnuts and used Macadamias instead. Sadly, they are completely stale, with a bad funk to them; they nearly ruined an otherwise glorious salad.

Their Beignets de Brandade de Morue (Cod Brandade with Tomato Confit & Fried Sage) sounds like a winner on the menu, containing some of my favorite ingredients.


But the Salt Cod Beignets stumble, with a heavily oil-soaked creation that tastes like something fried at the wrong temperature, and in reused oil. The Tomato Confit and little sliver of Fried Sage are blown away by the strong oil profile.


Another favorite casual French dish I'm always on the lookout for would be French Onion Soup. Bouchon's Soupe a l'Oignon arrives with an enticing fragrance of melted cheese.


Taking a sip, there's a great savoriness to the soup - not too sweet nor salty - and one of the best broths I've had for French Onion Soup in So Cal in a while. But it's the overcooking of the 2 Cheese blend on top of this dish that falters: Chef Herrmann uses a blend of Emmentaler and Comte Cheeses, both from France, for the topping and it sounds great, except for the soup delivered to our table, where the 2 Cheese Blend has turned into a semi-hard, very rubbery disc of "plastic." Otherwise, the soup itself is wonderful.


Our mains arrive at this point, starting with the Thon Confit a la Nicoise (Confit of Big Eye Tuna with Pole Beans, Fingerling Potatoes, Bibb Lettuce, Hard Boiled Egg & Radish).


The Tuna is overcooked, with the edges of the block of Tuna being dried out and chunky, but the center of this piece of Tuna is thankfully still moist and juicy (and not overcooked). It's presented almost like a deconstructed Nicoise Salad, but the homemade dressing is too heavy-handed on the Cornichons, Capers and Lemon Juice, really overpowering the poor Tuna which is already overcooked and disappointing.


Their Boudin Noir (Blood Sausage with Potato Puree and Caramelized Apples) bounces back nicely.


It's a delicious blend of Pork and Chicken Blood, and the 2 types of Blood really help to give it a surprisingly enjoyable, "pure meat" succulence, as opposed to getting the mineral-y qualities one might expect. It's lightly spicy, fragrant and a perfect pairing with the 2 sides. Bouchon sources their Boudin Noir from a specialty shop in San Francisco, so more credit to the specialist, but I'm glad to have it here in So Cal. :)


The Caramelized Apples are truly spot-on, lending natural, fruity sweetness that's a great foil for the Blood Sausage and the extremely silky, buttery Potato Puree.



Our final savory course of the evening is their Poulet Roti Grand-Mere (Roasted Chicken with Fingerling Potatoes, Button Mushrooms, Lardons, Pearl Onions & Winter Savory Jus).


There seems to be an ongoing trend with the kitchen with oversalting dishes as, sadly, the Roasted Chicken is too salty. :( The Winter Savory Jus is the culprit, but since the kitchen drenches the entire Roasted Chicken in the Jus (turning all the Roasted Chicken Skin into a soggy mess), it's hard to avoid it if you prefer less salt.

The highlight of this dish, however, is the Chicken Breast meat. For a Roasted Chicken at a restaurant, the Breast meat is still extremely juicy and turns out to be the best part of this Chicken. If this Chicken was served with something to help cut through the saltiness, e.g., some type of lightly-seasoned Potato, Haricots Verts, etc., then it might have saved this dish.


For dessert, we decide to try their signature "Bouchons" (Warm Chocolate Brownie with Valrhona Chocolate Chips and Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream).


The Warm Brownies and Valrhona Chocolate Chips are OK, pretty straightforward, and even with the good Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, the dessert underwhelms with a familiar, semi-sweet chocolate + vanilla flavor profile.

Their Mousse au Chocolat Noir (Dark Chocolate Mousse) is much better.


The Valrhona Dark Chocolate gives this Mousse a welcome, slightly bitter, but deep, fragrant chocolaty edge. Wonderful! :)

While there are some miscues during my earlier visits, it's during my 3rd visit that there's a noticeable drop in overall execution of service and food. The first thing I notice is in the bread service: They seem to have run out of the White Bean Puree and Toasted Baguette Croutons as every table (including ours) is being served Pistachio Nuts instead.


I'm fine if they ran out (or meant to serve it only during the first 2 days of their opening), but their Pistachios are stale. Like the Macadamias on my previous visit, these nuts have slight musty smell and taste.

And then our Epi Bread is also stale, tasting as if it was made the day before.

For our 3rd visit, Bouchon is offering up some new varieties of Oysters (which is a good sign that they're getting new stock every day), so we decide to try 2 types: Kumamotos and Shiny Seas.


The Kumamoto Oysters from Washington are a little brighter and more palatable than the disappointing Umami Oysters I had previously, but these are still more pungent than a good Kumamoto should be, and lack the vibrancy of really fresh Oysters. And we find pieces of Oyster shell in all of the Kumamotos.


The Shiny Sea Oyster from British Columbia fares much better, being sweeter and brighter than any of the Oysters we've tried at Bouchon so far, but sadly, there are multiple pieces of shell in all the Shiny Seas we received.


While not as sexy as the Foie Gras Terrine, their Pate de Campagne (Country Style Pate with Watercress, Cornichons & Radishes) is a great starter for Pate fans.


A wonderful blend of Pork, Chicken and Veal ground together, wrapped up by slices of Bacon, the Pate exhibits a fresh, smooth, creamy quality with a light organ meat undertone.


Hoping to continue the success I've had with their salads, we order the Salade de Cresson et d'Endives au Roquefort, Pommes et Noix (Watercress & Endive Salad with Roquefort, Fuji Apples, Toasted Walnuts & Walnut Vinaigrette).


This sounds like a safe winner on paper, but in execution it slips: There's simply too much Endive and not enough Watercress. In addition, the Endive tastes really flat and dull. And to add insult to injury, the Walnuts are... stale (again). I'm not sure who's in charge of quality control, but it's clear the kitchen is taking for granted all of their various nuts and not sampling them. The Walnuts were by far the worst of the various stale nuts I've encountered so far at Bouchon, and for this salad, they're an integral part of the dish and it's ruined because of it.

The Roquefort has the unmistakable, knock-your-socks-off pungency of a good blue cheese and is really tart and tangy, perfect in small quantities with this salad.


Wanting to give the kitchen another chance with one of my favorite French dishes, against better judgment I order another Confit de Canard, hoping my Opening Night disappointment was a fluke.


No such luck. It's hard to believe, but the Duck Confit on my 3rd visit is even saltier and completely inedible (I had to discreetly spit out my mouthful, it was that salty). Anisette and Le Saint Amour's Duck Confit are miles ahead of this version, and both of them could still use improvement compared to my favorite version in Paris.

By this time, the Moules au Safran (Maine Bouchot Mussels Steamed with White Wine, Mustard & Saffron, served with French Fries) arrives.


Besides the Foie Gras Terrine, this is my 2nd favorite dish on the menu, with a just cooked-through Bouchot Mussels, seductively aromatic from the Saffron and White Wine, tender, sweet and totally addictive. :)

While the sauce at the bottom has been reduced to the point that it's too salty by itself, they're well-balanced when dipping in the accompanying Fries. The Fries themselves, though, are lukewarm, salty and mainly soggy (even worse than Opening Night).


Perhaps the dish I've heard the most about (from each of my 3 different servers) is their Plat de Cotes de Boeuf (Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs with Caramelized Savoy Cabbage, Glazed Sweet Carrots, Parsnips & Jus de Boeuf).


Slow cooked for 10 hours, sous vide, I'm expecting meltingly tender, and great flavor infusion. The kitchen achieves the meltingly tender aspect - it's quite tender and falling apart - but the flavors are surprisingly lackluster, being very flat and one-note.


For dessert, we begin with their Profiteroles, Vanilla Ice Cream & Chocolate Sauce.


Warmed Valrhona Chocolate is poured tableside onto the Profiteroles (a nice touch), and the Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream is wonderful, especially when mixed with the Warm Valrhona Sauce. Unfortunately the Puffs that sandwich the Ice Cream tastes a bit stale, but otherwise, it's a nice finisher.


But if you only get one dessert, it would have to be their Creme Caramel (Caramel Custard). This is easily my favorite creation from Pastry Chef Scott Wheatfill so far: Perfectly cooked Creme Caramel, silky, lightly sweet, and with just the right firmness, yet still being wonderfully pliable.


Service during my 3 visits has been all over the place, but understandably so with it being Bouchon's opening week. But I think this experience alone has really been sobering to note just how skewed an Opening Night is compared to a restaurant's experience any time after that. During my first visit Opening Night, our server (and busboys) were extremely professional, courteous, nervous and always at an arm's length away: Plates were served and cleared without ever reaching across the diner; empty cups were promptly refilled; and a small army of floor managers / captains were checking in to see how each table was doing from time-to-time, periodically throughout the evening.

My 2nd visit yielded the complete opposite experience: Our server was non-chalant, forgetful of multiple requests (e.g., during dessert, he forgot our drink order), and disappeared for long periods of time (we didn't even see him on the floor anywhere).

Our 3rd visit's service was a mix of the previous visits: A warm, cordial server who was great when he was around, but would also disappear for long periods of time. There was no refilling of empty glasses ever, throughout the evening. No one checked in on us once throughout the meal (which is fine, but I'm noting it here for contrast to Opening Night).

Appetizers range from $6.50 - $48.50; Fruits de Mer Seafood from $1.95 per Clam - $110.00 for the Grand Plateau; Main dishes from $17.95 - $34.50; Desserts from $5.50 - $9.50. We averaged about ~$85 per person (including tax and tip).

A Thomas Keller-involved restaurant has finally touched down in Southern California in the form of Bouchon Beverly Hills. However, expectations should be kept in check, as this Bouchon is more about safe, middle-of-the-road, casual French Bistro fare than anything magnificent from Chef Keller himself. It's spectacularly average, both good and bad, with a casual yet upscale ambiance (a loud, festive "Happy Birthday to you!" being sung at a nearby table one night), and a good venue if you want to see celebrities like Ryan Seacrest (an investor in Bouchon Beverly Hills, who was seated next to us on another visit).

Unfortunately, the food at Bouchon Beverly Hills needs some work: The overly seasoned dishes echoes the fiasco Comme Ca faced when it first opened up; they need a better Maitre Ecailler to oversee and ensure quality Oysters and that they're properly shucked for consumption; there should be better quality control efforts so that stale nuts don't get used for a variety of dishes; and more. It's only the first week of operation, so I'm hopeful all of these issues can be resolved and that Bouchon Beverly Hills will be able to finally shine. But after 3 visits (with hardcore foodies, casual food-lovers, and 1 very non-discerning guest), not one of them wanted to return to Bouchon, with everyone generally feeling disappointed. For myself, I'm glad to have their absolutely amazing Foie Gras Terrine, Poached Pear & Marinated Beet Salad (without nuts for now), Moules au Safran and Creme Caramel, until they work out the kinks in their menu.

Rating: 5.0 (out of 10.0)

Bouchon Bistro (Beverly Hills)
235 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
Tel: (310) 271-9910

Current Hours: 7 Days A Week, 5:00 p.m. - 12:30 a.m.
They will be open for Lunch soon ("within a week or two" according to the receptionist).

http://www.bouchonbistro.com/

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