Knowing I was going to be visiting my friends in San Diego again this year, I vowed to get away from the more touristy restaurants in the Gaslamp Quarter this time; to try places that have gotten local Hounds excited. Thanks to many SD Hounds' recommendations, I found a charming little French Bistro in the East Village, away from the din of the Gaslamp. :)
Cafe Chloe's quiet corner location and San Diego's mild temperatures year-round help to create a nice ambiance whether you're dining inside or out. The interior design is clean and modern, with romantic low lighting. When we arrived a touch after 9 p.m. on a weeknight, the restaurant was nearly at capacity, but we were able to get one of the last remaining tables thankfully.
Perusing the menu, Chef de Cuisine Katie Grebow (formerly of W Hotel, San Diego and a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, Pasadena) has put together a simple, easy-to-navigate, collection of classic French dishes, as well as new creations that fit the French Bistro theme.
I start with their Lavender Lemonade Mimosa (House-made Lavender infused Lemonade with Prosecco). It's so floral, spring-like and refreshing; slightly sweet with a light, tart finish. Excellent. :)
Our first dish arrives at this point: Charcuterie du Jour - Pork Rillette (served with Toasted Bread, Pickles, Chives, Pomegranate Mustard and Seed Mustard).
The house-made Pork Rillette is wonderful: Smooth, creamy and very fresh (no strange odor or funk), it's a great way to start a meal; then again, Pork slowly cooked in its own fat... how can you go wrong? :)
The Pickled Whole Chives are too astringent for my tastes, but the house-made Pomegranate Mustard and some fresh Frisee are good accompaniments with the Rillette and Toasted Bread.
Cafe Chloe's Bistro Salad with Poached Egg is their take on the classic French Frisee Lardon Salade: Fresh Frisee Greens topped with delicious, thick cut, crisped Pork Belly cubes, dressed with a Vinaigrette of Pork Belly Pan Drippings, Olive Oil and Vinegar, finished off with a warm Poached Egg. There were a few pieces of the crisped Pork that were overcooked (really dried out and dense), but otherwise it was a good version of the classic.
The first of our entrees arrive soon after, starting with: Roasted Wild Salmon with Dill-Mustard Sauce, Haricot Verts & Yellow Wax Beans, Fingerling Potatoes.
The Wild Salmon is only a touch overcooked, generally very moist and tender with a great crisped Salmon Skin on one side. Chef Grebow's Dill-Mustard Sauce works very well, surprisingly light, with subtle notes of Butter, White Wine and Dill coming through more than the Mustard.
The Haricot Verts and Fingerling Potatoes are both expertly executed as well, with the Haricot Verts still having a great snap and crispness with some tenderness.
The Pan-Roasted Golden Grouper with Piperade, Yukon Gold Potatoes, and Chile Oil is a little more of a Basque-influenced dish.
The Grouper itself is very meaty and juicy, but it's a bit too dense at times. The Piperade complements the Grouper nicely without overpowering the fish, a nice version with clean flavors of Tomatoes, Peppers, Onions and Garlic coming through, but maybe a bit too sweet perhaps.
Finally, their Alsatian-influenced Choucroute Garnie: Coriander Sausage, Cured Pork Loin, Caraway Pork Belly, Sauerkraut, Fingerling Potatoes arrives with a generous portion of food.
The Homemade Coriander Sausage is impressive: There's a very pure, lightly porky flavor, juicy with a good Coriander undertone. It matches their Sauerkraut very well and stands on its own just fine without being too salty.
The Cured Pork Loin is unfortunately, just too chewy, lean and dense. It's overcooked and it's a chore to finish it.
But the real star of this dish - and arguably of every dish we tried that night - is their Caraway Pork Belly. Perfectly cooked, buttery and absolutely *luscious* Pork Belly, lightly seasoned and nearly as good as the best Pork Belly dishes I've had in the last year or so. It may not topple Animal anytime soon, but it's pretty impressive. (^_^) I wish they had an appetizer with just this Caraway Pork Belly. :) And as with the previous dish, the Fingerling Potatoes are well-prepared, still very moist and fluffy.

Service reminded me of a couple casual French eateries I ate it while in Paris: It was very laid-back and relaxed. Our server seemed to take his time getting around to us and sometimes we had to try multiple times in vain to get anyone's attention for more drinks and other requests; they just seemed to be moving at a different pace of life. :) Prices range from $4 - $23.50. We averaged about ~$40 per person (including tax and tip).
Cafe Chloe represents a surprising find for an area that in the past would seem to have more touristy dining options: Market fresh ingredients, well-executed versions of French classics, and a charming ambiance all add up to a great little neighborhood French Bistro that's a refreshing break from the usual Gaslamp options.
Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)
Cafe Chloe
721 Ninth Avenue, No. 1
San Diego, CA 92101
Tel: (619) 232-3242
Hours: Mon - Fri, 7:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sat, 8:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sun, 8:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
http://www.cafechloe.com/
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
A Piece of The City of Lights at the Edge of the Gaslamp - Cafe Chloe
Sunday, July 26, 2009
From the Ocean to the Mobile Taco Truck - The Intense, Smoky Marlin Tacos of Mariscos German
I've heard about the famous, highly-lauded Marlyn (Marlin) Tacos of the Mariscos German taco truck for quite some time. But it was always a tad too far of a drive for me. So when Jotaru dragged me along to visit some friends in the San Diego area, this was the first destination to pop up on my itinerary. :)
Thanks kare_raisu and so many other SD Hounds, I was prepped and ready to try their most famous offerings. Mariscos German now encompasses multiple taco trucks and a standalone restaurant, but the truck at University & 35th Street seems to be the most lauded. According to our server, Mariscos German buys whatever they need for the day, fresh from the local fish market before heading out to their destination, ensuring fresh seafood (and it shows).
Arriving on a weekday afternoon, the Mariscos German truck is packed, with a steady line of people showing up throughout our meal (with no letup in sight).
We start with their Taco de Cayo (Scallop Taco).
Local Bay Scallops are sauteed with Bell Peppers, Celery, Onions and Cilantro. The Bay Scallops are bright, fresh and still juicy, impressive for a venue most would associate with simple, fast food.
All customers are also provided with a cup of their Seafood Consomme made with Shrimp Heads, Cabbage and Celery. It's a focused, peppery, spicy, piping hot cup of soup, slightly briny and delicious.
The next dish, however was the one I was most looking forward to: Taco de Marlyn (Marlin Taco). I've read so much about them that I was wondering if it would live up to the anticipation, but after the first bite I understood the greatness. (^_^) The Marlin is perfectly cooked through, still moist and tender. But it's the texture and flavor that are most surprising: Intense, smoky, meaty... both of my guests thought it was pork at first. This is the first time I've had Marlin this spot-on in every facet. When combined with the Bell Peppers, Onions, Celery and Monterey Jack Cheese, it makes for a great combination. Outstanding. :)
Finally, we finish up with Taco de Gobernador, which turns out to be a Shrimp Taco, sauteed in the same style as the Marlyn and Cayo Tacos with Monterey Jack Cheese.
While the Shrimp tasted pretty fresh, they were uncleaned, which was a little off-putting to one of my guests. Otherwise it tasted pretty straightforward for a Shrimp Taco. The other slightly disappointing aspect is that all of the Tacos we tried were cooked with the same complementary ingredients (Bell Peppers, Celery, Onions) resulting in a similar flavor profile at times (but the texture and type of protein still stood out).
On our way out we notice a massive plate of what looks like everything of the sea, which turns out to be their Tostada Loca, a fried Tortilla bowl filled with every type of seafood offered at Mariscos German, definitely something to order next time. :) Each of their tacos are priced at $3.75, and we averaged about ~$11 per person.
Mariscos German offers up an enjoyable selection of seafood, with their Marlin Tacos being the standout. It's not a destination eatery, but I'm still dreaming about their Marlin and wish that I had a Mariscos German taco truck in my neighborhood. Perhaps one day. :)
Rating: 7.9 (out of 10.0)
Mariscos German
At the corner of University Avenue & 35th Street
San Diego, CA 92104
Hours: 7 Days A Week, 9:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Intense, Porky Ramen Soup Noodles - L.A. Gets Delicious Tonkotsu Ramen at Tatsunoya (For A Limited Time)
Finding a great bowl of Tonkotsu (Pork Bone) Ramen in L.A. can be challenging at times. True, we have Santouka's blended Tonkotsu broth (but it can be inconsistent), and Shin Sen Gumi was the first to popularize Hakata-style Tonkotsu Ramen in L.A., but it's been watered down for a while now. So when I heard that Mitsuwa Marketplace was holding their 2009 Kyushu & Okinawa Fair this weekend, and that the Torrance Mitsuwa was hosting a Ramen specialist from Kurume city, Fukuoka, Japan, I was hoping beyond hope that we'd be getting something truly worthy of Hakata-style Tonkotsu Ramen.
I arrived early and quickly found the stand for Tatsunoya (龍の家) in the food court area. Tatsunoya was founded by Chef-Owner Tajiwara Ryuuta who grew up in Kurume. Opening up Tatsunoya was a dream for Tajiwara-san: He studied under legendary Ramen master (and one of the Four Ramen Devas) Shigemi Kawahara of Ippudo fame, and he spent 3 years perfecting his Tatsunoya Tonkotsu Ramen Broth.
For this Kyushu Fair, Tatsunoya is only offering 1 type of Ramen, a kotteri (thick/rich) Tonkotsu Ramen (Pork Bone Broth Ramen Noodles). It's based on Chef Tajiwara's Koku Aji Tonkotsu Ramen served at his Ramen Shops in Japan, but it's not quite the same. Chef Tajiwara laments that he couldn't find the same quality Pork for his soup for this Food Festival (with the limited time he had to prep), but he said it's "almost the same" and he's proud of the soup he made for this Festival. :) Ultimately it seems to reflect his learning of Hakata-style Ramen-making and the roots of his native city of Kurume (where his original branch is located).
After a few anxious minutes, the bowl of Porky goodness arrives. :) Taking a sip of the Tonkotsu Broth... wonderfully deep and rich, with a soulful porcine aroma! It's creamy, rich, salty and sweet! But what's even more amazing is that Tatsunoya makes their Tonkotsu with just Pork Bones and Water (and a few spices). No Fish, Chicken, Konbu or other Vegetables. To be able to achieve this type of flavor with just different types of Pork Bones and his long-developed recipe for cooking and distilling it down is pretty impressive. :) But people with allergies to MSG take note: Tajiwara-san uses a "little bit" of MSG (unfortunately), but thankfully it's not overwhelming. I'm pretty sensitive to the Flavor Crystals and I only had a very mild reaction compared to many places around town.
The Noodles are wonderfully thin, firm and straight, a classic noodle from the Kyushu area. Not only is it a relief to find these straight noodles, but they're simply perfect with the Tonkotsu Broth.
And to top it all off are the toppings: Negi (Green Onions), Moyashi (Bean Sprouts), wonderful bits of Pork Fat, and the Chashu (Roasted Pork Slices). The Chashu is *so* fresh and clean (tasting as if it was cooked that day (and it was)). It's tender and juicy, as fatty as a slice of Buta no Kakuni (Braised Pork Belly) but a little less rich in flavor. Outstanding.
And finally the topping to beat all toppings might have to be the Jikasei Karamiso (Homemade Spicy Miso) that Tajiwara-san perfected back in Kurume. Just a tiny dab is added to each bowl, and when you mix it in with the soup, it combines to give an impressive extension of depth, a bit of spiciness, a longer lingering aroma to each sip of the broth.
What's even more impressive is the consistency: I went back the 2nd Day and tried another bowl of Tajiwara-san's Tonkotsu Ramen, and the Chashu, Broth and Noodles were even better. :) Price per bowl is $8.99.
A very solid bowl of true Tonkotsu porky goodness is something rare in L.A., and Tatsunoya delivers in spades. This is a bowl of Ramen worth trying, even if it's only here in L.A. for 4 days (hopefully until next year). Tatsunoya is currently only visiting L.A. as part of the ongoing 2009 Mitsuwa Kyushu & Okinawa Fair. When I asked Tajiwara-san if he was planning on opening a branch of Tatsunoya in L.A., he smiled and said he'd like to, but he wants to learn English first. :) Here's to hoping we get a branch of this Pork Bone Ramen goodness one day soon.
Rating: 8.3 (out of 10.0)
Tatsunoya is part of the 2009 Mitsuwa Kyushu & Okinawa Fair from July 16 - July 19, 2009.
Mitsuwa Market
21515 Western Ave.
Torrance,CA 90501
TEL: (310) 782-0335
* Cash Only *
Tatsunoya Hours: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. (or when the Ramen sells out (usually by mid-late afternoon)).
Sunday, July 12, 2009
A Beautiful Sunday Morning (at a Premium) - The Sunny Breakfast, Fresh Pastries and More at Huckleberry Bakery and Cafe
It's always a delight when you come across a restaurant that embodies your ideal for a certain situation, whether it be that perfect French Bistro for a date night, or classic Ice Cream Parlor for a hot Summer afternoon. Or the quintessential "Sunday Morning," which for me involves a beautiful, clear sky, with sunlight gently pouring through the windows. Add some fresh flowers, a simple breakfast in bed made with farmer's market fresh produce and fresh-baked Pastries, and voila! (^_^) Sure, it's a bit of a highly romanticized, Hollywood-esque ideal, but it's even nicer when you actually find your Sunday Morning image embodied in a restaurant (minus the bed :), in this case at Huckleberry Bakery & Cafe.
Stepping into Huckleberry during our first visit - on a sunny, early Sunday morning - I'm immediately greeted by notes of cinnamon and the scent of fresh baked pastries coming out of the kitchen of Pastry Chef and Co-Owner Zoe Nathan, who runs this cute, simple eatery along with her husband Josh Loeb (both of Rustic Canyon fame).
It's a straightforward system of ordering at the counter (which also allows you to pick out your favorite Pastries, Teacakes and more on display, while ordering savory dishes off the menu), paying immediately, and then finding a table to await your order. This simple system, however, can also lead to some frustration if you get there too late in the day, as the restaurant tends to get crowded at times, which leads to people hovering over tables, and hoping to claim a spot as soon as the current occupants get up to leave. For my first 2 visits, we arrived early on the weekend (around ~8:30 a.m.) and there were still a few tables open. But for my 3rd visit, getting there a bit later (around 9:30 a.m.), there was one couple ahead of us waiting for a table, but we managed to get a table pretty quickly (within 10 minutes).
Huckleberry serves a wide variety of teas from Art of Tea, including an Organic English Breakfast Black Tea: Fragrant, hearty, but light, with a nice, clean finish.
Our first two items were things I was most looking forward to trying: The Croissant and Maple Bacon Biscuit.
The Maple Bacon Biscuit is something that has gotten so many recommendations to try (from bulavinaka, mollyomormon and many others) that I feared I would start having dreams about it if I didn't try it soon. :)
While bulavinaka's absurdly detailed and wonderful exposition gave me some inkling about what to expect, it still didn't prepare me for the utter delight my taste buds would receive when I took a bite for the first time: A buttery, flaky, crumbly Biscuit with notes of Maple and a genuinely satisfying porcine undertone of little bits of perfectly cooked, crispy, fresh Bacon! (^_^) This is a hearty Biscuit, but it's unlike any Biscuit I've had before. Its subtlety is part of what makes it so beautiful: The Maple thankfully doesn't overpower the baked wonder, and neither does the Bacon. Both combine for just the right amount of flavors to really celebrate the Biscuit itself. Wonderful! :)
A great Croissant is something I'm always on the lookout for, but if there's one pastry that falls a bit short at Huckleberry, it'd be their Croissant. It tastes very fresh (baked that morning), but it's just a bit too soft with more of an airy, chewy bread-like texture, instead of the crispy, flaky quality I prefer. It's not bad at all - a good, well-made pastry - but it doesn't dethrone Anisette or Amandine's versions.
One nice aspect about Huckleberry is that all their baked goods are made with real butter only (no partially-hydrogenated oils or margarine).
When glancing at their menu, there was one item I just couldn't resist ordering: Green Eggs & Ham (with La Quercia Prosciutto on House-made English Muffin). :)
I was curious to see how close this would be to Dr. Seuss' original, and thankfully Chef Zoe's version looks much healthier and more enticing. (^_~) The House-made English Muffins exhibit a beautiful crunch and fragrance that only fresh baked bread can impart. The Eggs are topped with a colorful green Aioli, and then finished with a nice bunch of Baby Arugula from the local farmer's market.
It ends up being just a touch too salty, but it has more to do with the generous amount of delicious Prosciutto that's provided with this dish. Otherwise, the light peppery, vibrant *greenness* of the Baby Arugula is a nice complement to the "Green Eggs," Prosciutto and English Muffin.
The Rotisserie Duck Hash (with Fried Eggs, Sweet Potatoes, Spring Onions & Swiss Chard) is even better.
Served with 2 sunny-side up Eggs, I break the yolk and take a bit of the Egg and Duck Hash itself: Delicious. :) The Sweet Potatoes are a bit too prominent in this dish; very fresh and tasting of the earth, but its inherent sweetness has a tendency to overpower the dish at times. But eating past that, the pepperiness of the Baby Arugula, the creaminess of the Egg Yolk, and the absolutely delightful taste of freshly cooked Rotisserie Duck more than make up for the sweetness. :) It's become far too common seeing poultry dishes taste like the kitchen was using leftovers (with the 1-2 day funk), but here, the Rotisserie Duck meat tasted like it was cooked just for this dish when I ordered it. Lovely. :)
On another visit, I start with their Prosciutto Gruyere Croissant. This time, with the Prosciutto and Gruyere Cheese baked into the pastry, the Croissant turned out much better than their plain version: A crispy, porky, and lightly salty quality is balanced out nicely by the Gruyere and the Croissant itself.
The Whole Wheat Fruit Bar sounds like a potential "boring healthy" item, but it comes out more like a sinful dessert than anything else: Gratifying, nutty and fruity.
It looks and tastes more like a beautiful slice of a fresh fruit pie, with the Blackberries and Blueberries really making the homemade Granola crust shine.
Their Cinnamon Sugar Doughnut is rather straightforward, however: It's a well-made Doughnut, tasting of clean oil (no overly reused oil here), and it's not too oily or greasy tasting, but at the end of the day, it tastes like a good, simple Doughnut, but a touch on the dry side.
Their Egg 'Huck' Muffin (Maple Bacon Biscuit Filled with Scrambled Egg) looks to be a playful take on the McDonald's Egg McMuffin, only 10 times better. :) Huckleberry takes their excellent Maple Bacon Biscuit and as the menu states, they cut it open and fill it with Scrambled Eggs. The result is like getting a classic American breakfast (Bacon, Scrambled Eggs and Bread) all in a convenient form. It's a far more subtle version than a typical breakfast sandwich, with the lightly sweet, Maple-laced Bacon bits, crumbly crust of the Biscuit giving the proper backbone to the Scrambled Eggs for a great combination that's never too salty or greasy.
We finished off this visit with the Warm Goat Cheese Salad (with Mixed Baby Greens, Multigrain Crostini and Sherry Vinaigrette).
The oddest thing about this dish was that the Goat Cheese wasn't "warm" at all, not that it mattered because beyond the crisp, bright Mixed Baby Greens that were minimally dressed, the Laura Chenel's Chevre was the absolute highlight! The Laura Chenel Goat Cheese is *so* fresh, *so* creamy and soft (with a light, playful pungency) that I couldn't stop eating it with the Greens and Crostini. I could eat this salad every day. :)
On my 3rd visit, my guest and I arrive and are greeted by a new array of pastries and flatbreads that I hadn't seen on my previous 2 visits. I love the seasonality reflected in these breakfast items. :)
The Rosemary Potato Flatbread had just finished cooking and was still very warm (nice). The Onion, Garlic, Potato slices add a satisfying heartiness to each bite, but it's the bits of Rosemary that adds that aromatic piney note to this warm bread and it's simply wonderful! :)
Peanut Butter is another favorite of mine, so I couldn't resist ordering the Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart with Candied Peanuts. :)
The Peanut Butter Tart is airy and not too sweet at all (very nice), with a Peanut Butter Crust filled with a light Chocolate Mousse. I still prefer Craft's Peanut Butter Cup more, but this is a very good version.
The Zucchini Teacake is another winner, being nutty, fragrant and so moist. The touch of Orange Zest also really brightens up the dish.

But probably the biggest surprise out of all my visits is Chef Zoe's Blueberry Corn Cake. I'm not usually a fan of Corn baked into anything, but the Blueberry Corn Cake had just come out of the oven and they were just putting it out to be ordered at the counter. I could smell the enticing aroma and I'm glad we ordered it. :)
Taking a bite: An extremely moist, soft, lightly sweet fragrant cake, with light accents of Corn and fresh Blueberries made me a convert to Corn Cakes. (^_~) Of course the earlier you order, the better the results with this dish. It's currently one of my favorites at Huckleberry.
I notice their Duck Hash has changed on the menu (due to what's in season), and I decide to try their Duck Confit Hash (with Corn, Market Potatoes and Roasted Torpedo Onions).
While the previous version's Sweet Potatoes tended to overpower the dish, this new seasonal variation is spot-on! Now using a Duck Confit preparation, the Duck meat is just tender and luscious and very fresh (again), and when mixed with the Eggs and 2 types of Potatoes, it just brings a big smile to my face. Wonderful! (^_^)
The Fried Egg Sandwich (with Sunny-Side Up Eggs, Niman Ranch Bacon, Gruyere, Arugula & Aioli on Country Bread) arrives soon after. It's a well-made version of a good Breakfast item, with the fresh Arugula, Egg and great crunch with the Country Bread, but it's nothing spectacular. It's just a very good version of a classic (nothing wrong with that). :)
The final item for this visit is their Heirloom Tomato, Burrata & La Quercia Prosciutto.
It's a classic pairing, and the Burrata Cheese is gorgeous as to be expected, with the natural sweetness of the Heirloom Tomatoes really coming through with a drizzle of the Balsamic Vinegar and Olive Oil. The La Quercia Prosciutto is a nice touch, but I'm happy just with the Burrata and local Heirloom Tomatoes. :)
Service is a bit hit-or-miss: At the counter, the servers have been just fine, taking the orders promptly and smoothly. Once seated, trying to get a server to get more hot water for tea, or other needs is a bit more difficult. It's usually easier to get up and just go to the counter and ask for whatever you need. You wonder if that should be protocol (since you order at the counter as well), or if their servers are just too busy / understaffed, and therein lies one of the biggest challenges at Huckleberry (and source of some complaints online).
For the price (which ranges from ~$0.75 - $9.50 for Bakery items; $5 - $15 for Brunch Menu items (we averaged about ~$25 per person including tax and tip)), one might expect a different level of service than what is being given at the restaurant, and that's understandable. You stand in line and order at the counter up front, then sit down with a Number and your food is brought out to the table, but you have to hunt down and claim your own table as well. To make matters worse (depending on your luck), it's a very casual restaurant, so there may be a chance you'll encounter plenty of families with their newborn babies in tow (or children playing around). I was lucky enough on my 3 visits to show up early and only had 1 Family + Baby (who was crying only once in a while). But as we were leaving on my final visit (around ~ 10 a.m.), there was a line out the door, people hovering over tables waiting for people to leave, and 3 different tables now seated with babies (2 tables with crying babies). I could see how a great Breakfast could be ruined under these circumstances.
Huckleberry Bakery & Cafe is a cute little restaurant and a charming place (at times) to grab some fresh Pastries and Breakfast / Brunch. From the excellent Duck Confit Hash to the lush Blueberry Corn Cake, to the subtle brilliance of the Maple Bacon Biscuit, Chef Zoe Nathan delivers some wonderful reasons to stop by if you're in the area. There are some rather straightforward menu items mixed in with the hits, and the prices are at a premium compared to some other local favorites, but Huckleberry captured my ideal "Sunday Morning" better than any place I've been to recently. It's not a destination restaurant, and your experience can be dramatically different depending on when you go and luck itself (with the clientele eating at the time), but Huckleberry has enough bright spots on the menu to make me happily stop in for a bite to eat, before visiting the Santa Monica Farmer's Market. :)
Rating: 8.1 (out of 10.0)
Huckleberry Bakery & Cafe
1014 Wilshire Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Tel: (310) 451-2311
Hours: Tue - Fri, 8:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Sat - Sun, 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays.
http://www.huckleberrycafe.com/
