Elevating Latin Cuisine – The Sophisticated, Stylish Dishes of Rivera Restaurant (and Home of Fantastic, Fresh Cocktails)

During my first visit to Rivera Restaurant, I found myself wondering why it took me so long to pay this restaurant a visit. Perhaps it was the feeling of inundation at yet another new, stylish eatery opening up in Downtown L.A. (part of a boom of restaurants opening all within the last year or so). Or maybe it was the early pictures and glimpses of the menu that seemed like it was the Mexican equivalent of P.F. Chang's, focusing more on drawing in the mainstream. And it didn't help that there was another brand-new, chic Latin cuisine restaurant (Casa) opening up around the same time, in the same area.

But after hearing many good reviews about Rivera from mollyomormon and many others, I decided to stop by one evening last month, and 5 visits later, it's easy to see why Rivera has become one of the standout restaurants in Downtown L.A. with its relaxed, but stylish setting, wonderful cocktails, and elegant execution of Latin cuisine.


Rivera Restaurant is the result of a lifelong dream of Executive Chef John Rivera Sedlar. A native of Santa Fe, New Mexico, Chef Sedlar grew up seeing Mexican and Latin cuisine being treated as "second-class cuisine," with many people thinking that it was mainly about tacos and burritos, etc. He saw how elegant and fancy American and European cuisine was presented, and hoped to one day present Latin cuisine in the same light; to create a restaurant that could really elevate Latin cuisine to a similar level, and to that end, Chef Sedlar trained under Chef Jean Bertraneau (learning the classical French cuisine techniques), and even went on a real-life Anthony Bourdain/No Reservations-esque 14 year journey across Mexico, South America and the Caribbean to hone his skills. Rivera is the result of all of that.


Walking into Rivera, you find yourself immediately looking over at the simple, but stylish bar, helmed by head bartender Julian Cox. Glancing over the bar area, I notice piles of fresh fruit, herbs and vials of homemade fruit- and herb-infused concoctions that Julian and the rest of the bartending crew use for the various signature cocktails at Rivera.


On my first visit, we begin with the simplest of Prologos (Snacks) on the menu: Tortillas Florales (Housemade Nixtimal Tortillas, "Indian Butter").


These turn out to be visually beautiful (and tasty), handmade Tortillas, thick and crisped on the outside, with an edible Flower cooked into each one(!). It's cute and delicious with the Avocado-infused "Indian Butter."



Next up is their Bacalao Negro Fresco (Seared Black Cod, Serrano Ham Crisp).


The Black Cod is wonderfully cooked, first poached and then finished with a perfect searing resulting in a crispy, sexy crust, and a super-moist interior. Of the 3 times I've ordered this dish, it's been great every time. The Black Cod is *so* fresh and pure in its taste, with no hint of any bad brininess. The Serrano Ham adds a nice salty accent to each bite of the Black Cod, with the Jicama slivers adding that very fresh, crispness and textural contrast.

The housemade Salsa Verde (made from Serrano Chiles) also deserves mention for its fragrant, even-burning heat that accents the fish wonderfully without overpowering. And finally the Oregano-Mint "decoration" on the side of the plate is whimsical and fun, and another nice accent to the dish. Excellent! :)


While the Bacalao had some cute plating design, the Pollo Con Citricos (Pan Roasted Chicken, Citrus, Carrots, Wilted Spinach) represents something a bit more provoking, interesting, and curious, with its brazen "Courtesy is not a sign of weakness" lettering spelled out across the plate using Cumin and Turmeric.


The various messages that appear on the dinner plates is something Chef Sedlar wanted to try: He's a firm believer in the dinner table being a place not only to eat, but to commune and talk about things. So these messages are put on certain dishes to serve as a catalyst for that goal. :) It's interesting and different, and doesn't bother me.

The Chicken itself is another great dish: The Pan Roasted Chicken is extremely fresh and moist, cooked with a bit of Olive Oil, Rosemary and Thyme, served with some Purple Peruvian Potatoes.


The Fletan (Seared Halibut, Tomatillos, Tempura Chiles) is an exercise in perfectly cooked fish when Chef Sedlar is overseeing the kitchen.


The Halibut is like the Pollo Con Citricos, but even more so: Cooked simply in Olive Oil with some Salt and Black Pepper, it's very light, but not bland. The Tomatillos are thinly sliced and sprayed with a Citrus-infused Olive Oil, adding a nice hint of tart to the moist, flaky Halibut. But on another visit (on a Sunday), when Chef Sedlar was off, the Halibut was a bit overcooked around the edges.


The Duck Enfrijolada (Duck Confit, Goat Cheese, Stacked Blue-Corn Tortillas, Black Bean Puree, Chile Rioja Sauce) is another striking presentation, showing off the deep, dark colors of their Mole ("Mo-Leh") Sauce in an elegant manner.


The initial star of the dish is the housemade Chipotle-Cabernet Sauce: It's complex, with a good aroma that engages your sense of smell immediately, with a good creamy background and a slow burn.

But as you dig deeper, tasting a bit of the Blue-Corn Tortillas with the Chipotle Sauce and the Goat Cheese and some chunks of the Duck Confit, that's when the true beauty of this dish really shines: The flavors work beautifully, with the distinct, sharp Goat Cheese meshing nicely with the fatty, moist Duck Confit chunks of meat, and it all combines with the Blue-Corn Tortillas and Chipotle-Cabernet to enter into an earthy loveliness. Delicious! :)


Our final entree of the evening is their Maya Puerco Pibil Sous Vide (Banana Leaf Braised Pork Shoulder, Peruvian Potatoes).


After seeing the words "Sous Vide" in the description, I wasn't sure what to expect with this dish: Would it be like a Yucatecan Cochinita Pibil, or something far different? It turns out to be nice, generous slices of Braised Pork Shoulder presented on top of a Banana Leaf; another stylish presentation.

The Puerco Pibil itself tastes very clean and fresh, with a good tender quality to it, but also retaining a firmness in its texture and structure. It's nothing like the usual Cochinita Pibil I've seen locally, but it's a unique presentation and successful dish overall. I would've liked a bit more of the meltingly tender aspect with this Pork Shoulder, but otherwise, it was good.


For dessert, we decide to try one of their daily specials and one of their regular items. The Olive Oil Cake with Fresh Strawberries and Creme Fraiche & Strawberry Sorbet is a nice way to finish off dinner.


The Olive Oil Cake is very moist and well-permeated with Olive Oil but it's never overpowering. The Fresh Strawberries, Creme Fraiche Sorbet and Strawberry Sorbet combination adds just the right level of sugary sweetness and a touch of natural tartness to keep it from ever getting too saccharin.


The Baba Cachaca (with Citrus and Dulce De Leche) is something wildly different: It starts with some Bread soaked in Cachaca (a Brazilian alcoholic beverage made from Sugarcane), and then layered with Grapefruit and Cream.

Initially the Cachaca and the alcoholic content has a good punch, and the bitterness of the Grapefruit slices adds to the strangeness, but then you start tasting the subtleties of the combination, and a small dab into the Dulce De Leche swaths on the plate gives each bite a light sweetness to balance out the alcohol and bitter notes.


Overall the first visit was a pleasant, enjoyable evening, and on our way out - passing by the vials of housemade fruit- and herb-infused syrups - I was reminded to try their signature cocktails for my next visit. :)


For the second visit, we begin with their Tamal (Braised Pork Short Rib, Seasonal Mushrooms, Guajillo Sauce).


The Oyster Mushrooms are fragrant, but a bit dried out, but its aroma really opens up the flavors of the Kurobuta Pork in the Tamale. The Kurobuta Pork is tender and well-seasoned, but the highlight would have to be the Masa dough itself: Very moist and refined, the texture is perfect for the Pork filling.


Eager to try their cocktails, I begin with the Sabertooth (Cachaca, Lime, Eau de Vie, Blueberries). Taking a sip... refreshing, relaxing, real bits of Blueberry pulp; just delicious. The Sabertooth is thankfully not overpowered by the alcohol (as is too often the case), and you can taste the care and effort put into this drink. This is a serious cocktail, with Bartender Julian and staff using local Farmer's Market fresh fruit for their concoctions, and it shows.

It's also interesting to note that they use custom Ice Cubes from Neve Luxury Ice. The ice cube is one huge block of ice that's designed to minimize melting, so that the cocktail doesn't become diluted with water over time, while still keeping the drink properly chilled. (And after finishing the Sabertooth, the Neve Ice Cube retained about ~90% of its original size and shape; very cool. :)


My guest orders the Clover Club (Gin, Raspberry Preserve, Egg White, Lime). This is definitely a stronger drink, with the Gin front-and-center, but smoothed out with the Raspberry Preserve's light sweetness and the Egg White and Lime. It's a bit too much Gin for my tastes, but my guest loved it.


Our next starter arrives: Piquillos Rellenos (Stuffed Spanish Peppers, Chorizo, Golden Raisins, Gruyere).


This is another beautiful presentation, visually engaging, and it makes me all the more eager to try it. While the Chorizo flavor isn't very apparent, it adds enough to enhance the mild, sweet Gruyere and Golden Raisins combination. The only slight disappointment is that it was served at room temperature (both times I've ordered it).


But possibly the best starter to try would have to be Chef Sedlar's Cordorniz Cubana (Grilled Quail, Black Beans).


Succulent, juicy, tender Quail that's cooked just through... there's a light smokiness, and the Frijoles Negros (Black Beans) is surprisingly light and earthy, with an enchanting light spice note from the Achiote Peppers. Quail can be so easy to mess up, but after Animal, I'm happy to have found another restaurant that shines with its Quail dish. Outstanding!


Their Mole (Kurobuta Pork Chop, Mole, Market Fresh Vegetables) is another example of Chef Sedlar's deft touch in combining the traditional with modern touches.


The Mole ("Mo-Leh") Sauce is immediately accessible, yet still layered enough to have you yearning to know more about the complex sauce. There's a good Chocolate note, along with a nice low burn. It's not going to rival Moles La Tia anytime soon, but it's a solid Mole Sauce.

The menu lists the Mole Sauce as being the star of the dish, but after biting into a bit of the Pork Chop, the clear winner is the excellent Kurobuta Pork Chop. Of the two times ordering this dish, the Kurobuta Pork Chop has been cooked just right: Tender, juicy, yet still with a great meaty, firmness, this is one of the best Pork Chops I've had in a while.



At this point, my guest orders another cocktail to try: A Good Night (Bourbon, Orange Zest Bitters, Tequila, Honey, Cherry). This one is definitely for all the Bourbon lovers out there. It's strong, but the Bitters, Honey and Cherry help take some of the edge off this drink. My guest loved it, but this is something that's a bit too potent for me. :)


Their Purple Rain (Vodka, Violet, Ginger, Rosewater, Thai Basil) on the other hand, is just beautiful and stunning, visually and taste-wise.


It's absolutely refreshing and completely enjoyable to drink as a beverage, with the Ginger, Rosewater and Thai Basil giving each sip a natural floral scent with a great taste. One of my new favorite cocktails. :)


We continue onto dessert, starting with the Estudio en Flan (Three Different Styles of the Classic Dessert, with Three Complementary Sauces).


This is a fascinating dish, not because of the presentation (which is well done), but because of the 3 densities of Flan presented. Starting from the left side, the first Flan is the lightest, having a far more light and airy consistency than the usual Flan found around town. It's absolutely wonderful by itself, but you can also dab a bit of it in the Strawberry Anise Sauce, Black Pepper Caramel, or Blackberry Curry, and entice your senses even more. (^_~)


The middle Flan is the Flan with the medium density; it tastes familiar and is the one most similar to the standard Flan dessert found around town. It's also delicious in its own way, but the densest Flan is the most curious. It's definitely thicker and more viscous in some ways, but still delicious. Ultimately it's a great play on textures with the same type of dessert, and something I've found myself ordering again and again.



For my 3rd visit, we begin with Caballito de Sopas Dobles (Two Latin Soups, Different Flavors, Different Temperatures). For this evening, it's Arroz Con Leche with a Lamb Veloute. The Arroz Con Leche is really light and smooth, and at room temperature. It's layered with the Lamb Veloute as the 2nd layer, which is so pure, buttery and completely permeating Lamb goodness at a warm temperature. The result is a shot of 2 different flavors slowly combining at 2 different temperatures in your mouth.

The Cordero Vasco (Basque Lamb Chops, Chorizo, Piquillos, Olives, Capers) arrives soon after.


I love Lamb in general, so I couldn't wait to try this. Unfortunately the Lamb Chops were a touch too salty, but were still moist and supple for the most part. It was cooked about medium to medium-well in doneness, and looking back on the dish, it was probably the combination of Chorizo, Capers and general Salting of the Lamb Chops that did this dish in for me.


I decide to start with their Strawberry Fields (Blanco Tequila, Velvet Falernum, Strawberries, Cucumber, Mint) cocktail, which turns out to be yet another winner on their amazing Cocktail Menu. Imagine super-vibrant Farmer's Market Strawberries, freshly muddled, with Cucumber and Mint, blending just right with the Blanco Tequila. It's like the best Fresh Fruit Smoothie that's been Spiked (just a touch). (^_~) This has become another favorite cocktail of mine.


The Pato al Vino (Duck Confit, Rioja Reduction, Cascabel Chile) shows off some of Chef Sedlar's French Cuisine training with a very good rendition of Duck Confit. The Duck tastes fresh, succulent and still tender, with a crisped skin. The Rioja Reduction gives it a nice layer of flavor, but the Duck Confit can stand on its own as well.


Perhaps the only disappointing item I've had on the menu is surprisingly the Jamon Iberico de Bellota Pata Negra (World's Finest Ham, Housemade Bread).


I've only had Jamon Iberico de Bellota previously at The Bazaar, where I fell in love with this type of Cured, Free-Range Pork immediately. At The Bazaar, the Jamon Iberico de Bellota was lightly salty, but so vibrant and just stunning, and gristle-free.


But here, with the Jamon being hand-carved to order, it tasted like a completely different type of Jamon. It was extremely salty, and each piece we tried had some noticeable gristle. Looking back on my pictures, they look slightly different. I'm not sure why the two are so different (perhaps different brands), but this was one disappointing dish.


The Crema Catalana (Almonds, Xerez Creme) thankfully rebounds nicely.


This dessert is really aromatic, nutty and lightly sweet. The Powdered Sugar Almonds add a nice touch as well, giving a playful crunch to the creaminess of the rest of the dessert.


Finally, their Mexico City Sundae is an explosion of intensity: It's a Vanilla, Habanero(!), Passion Fruit Helado (Ice Cream), topped with Roasted Pine Nuts and Caramel.


It's wild and spicy and truly completely intense! Surprisingly it's not too sweet, and it's the most bizarre thing to be eating Ice Cream, and experiencing a spicy burning sensation, while also being cooled by the Ice Cream. :)


Service has been attentive and solid for the most part. During my first visit, our waitress seemed a bit distant at times, with us having to flag down a secondary server in the area to take care of our needs at times. But on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th visits, the service has been just fine. Prices range from $2 - $44 (for the Jamon Iberico), with most dishes in the $10 - $20 range. Cocktails range from $6 - $15. We averaged about ~$50 per person (including tax and tip).

With an elegant, but relaxed atmosphere, outstanding cocktails, and simply delicious creations by Chef Sedlar, Rivera is quickly becoming one of the best reasons to dine in Downtown L.A. One of the most subtle achievements, but my absolute favorite thing about Rivera, is its refinement. This isn't about the negative connotations of the word, but about the fact that Chef Sedlar and the kitchen staff have focused on creating dishes that are generally never too salty (except the Jamon), never too oily, or too sweet. Chef Sedlar set out to create a restaurant that celebrates Latin Cuisine and can elevate it to a level that rivals that of many fine American and European restaurants. From the interesting plating design, to the stylish atmosphere and delicious cocktails, to the restrained but excellent food, he has succeeded with flying colors.

Rating: 8.5 (out of 10.0)

Rivera Restaurant
1050 S. Flower Street, #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Tel: (213) 749-1460

Hours: [Lunch] Mon - Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon - Sat, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
[Late Night] Thu - Sat, 10:30 p.m. - 1:00 a.m. (special late night menu served until 12:00 Midnight)

http://www.riverarestaurant.com/

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The Birth of a New Era? Delicious and Healthy California-style Ramen using Seasonal, Local Vegetables at Ramen California

Discovering a "great dish" - some food that is noteworthy and standout - is something that most people in the culinary world hope to achieve. From the food-loving customer, hoping that each meal is better than the last, to the chef in the kitchen, striving to make the next great dish, it's an exciting and continuous quest to find excellence.

What makes a "great dish," however, is something harder to define. Is it the absolute excellence in execution of classic recipes, e.g., the Ultimate Fried Chicken, a classic cooked to absolute perfection? Or is it about innovation and pushing a cuisine forward to new areas not previously reached, such as the molecular gastronomy movement? Or is it somewhere in-between, with small twists on the classic recipe? While the answer is ultimately up to each individual, perhaps the most difficult and most exciting prospects are the dishes that focus heavily on innovation.

Innovation can bring about a whole range of emotions from disturbed (that the food you were expecting has now become something wildly different) to joyous (that your favorite dish is now completely new and transformed and still tasty). And in the world of Ramen, in Southern California (instead of Japan), we're witnessing what might be the birth of a whole new style of slurping Ramen Soup Noodles at the newly opened Ramen California.


I first heard about Ramen California thanks to the Guru of Ramen Slurping's amazing review. After reading Rameniac's thoughts, I could feel the excitement building and quickly called up some Ramen Hounds to pay this place a visit. :)

One of the most exciting facets about this new restaurant is that it's opened by Chef Shigetoshi "Sean" Nakamura (中村　栄利) of Nakamura-ya and Sanshirou fame in Japan (wildly popular Ramen eateries famous for Nakamura-san's own take on the classics)! Thanks to Rameniac and my 'dachi Keizo, I found out that he's considered to be one of the "Four Devas" in the Ramen world, truly the best-of-the-best in Japan.

Ramen California seems to be the culmination of all the years of culinary experience that Nakamura-san has accumulated. Chef Ferran Adria (of El Bulli fame) traveled to Japan and dined at Nakamura-san's restaurant; they came to be good friends, with Nakamura-san visiting Chef Adria in Spain, and becoming even more inspired. In his teenage years, Nakamura-san lived in Mira Costa, California for 4 years and fell in love with Southern California during that time. He vowed to earn enough money to come back and open a restaurant, and Ramen California is the culmination of 10 years of effort and a realization of a dream for this star of the Japanese Ramen world.


The style of Ramen California is apparent from the moment you lay eyes on the sign: A minimalist sign with simple black-and-white lettering. They took over the old Chabuya Torrance space, and have kept the walls and decor blank, with straightforward wooden tables and electronica playing softly in the background. The restaurant's philosophy is printed simply but proudly on each menu, stating that they source their Produce from the local Torrance Farmer's Market twice a week, and use Natural and Organic ingredients (including Organic Ramen Noodles!), with No MSG.


In another unusual sighting for a Ramen restaurant, bottles of Wine and 8 different types of Bottled Water are prominently displayed, along with a board listing the daily specials.


After looking over the menu, it's easy to be confused and even shocked at what looks to be a selection of European-style Small Plates and some very "fusion"-sounding types of Ramen. But, encouraged by Rameniac's review, we quickly placed our order, and after 3 visits, this new style of Ramen has ignited a fire of adoration within me. :)

We began with their Original Rosemary Kasha Bread, which is Chef Nakamura's merging of a classic Chinese-style Bao (Steamed Bun) with a touch of Western sensibilities with some Rosemary, Chilean Olive Oil and English Sea Salt. The result is stunning: The hypnotic fragrance from fresh-baked bread, combined with the foresty, spring-like wonder that a touch of fresh Rosemary can only bring makes this an addictive, excellent way to start a meal. :)


The first Small Plate course to arrive is their Lobster Ravioli in Mushroom Sauce, and I'm curious to see what Nakamura-san's interpretation of Italian Pasta will be like.


The Ravioli is cooked a touch past al dente (which is fine by me), but still retains a good firmness. The Lobster filling itself, however is disappointing: You can taste the flavor of Lobster, but the Lobster meat seems to have been pureed with cheese to form a very creamy, uniform filling that doesn't satisfy. The Crimini Mushrooms are the star of the dish and helps to save it ultimately, adding a good aromatic quality.



One noteworthy facet of the menu is the ability to order any of their Ramen Noodles in a Small size (15 oz), as well as the Regular size (20 oz) and Double size (40 oz) versions. According to our waitress, the Small Size is by far the most popular, which may be a good sign about the philosophy Nakamura-san is pushing for. The Small Size is small enough to essentially allow each customer to create their own "Tasting Menu" for Ramen, trying out different flavors of Ramen, as well as some of the Small Plates, without filling up too much.


Our first Ramen arrives soon after: The signature Californian Ramen features over 30(!) different types of Garden Fresh Vegetables in Natural Chicken Broth with Organic Ramen Noodles.


Visually, it's shocking and stunning: It looks absolutely gorgeous with the colors of the Farmer's Market fresh Vegetables, and at the same time, I'm wondering, "Is this really Ramen?!" A sip of the broth reveals an extremely light, but *pure* Chicken Broth. Chef Nakamura uses freshly dispatched Chickens in this new style of Ramen Soup he's making to match his "California-style Ramen." The Soup is mainly Torigara (Chicken Bones) focusing on the backbone and chicken feet, with 5% of the Broth being Pork, with a light touch of Konbu (Kelp).

With such a light Soup, it really provides a stage to show off the main ingredient: The 30+ Market Fresh Vegetables, featuring ingredients unheard of in Ramen, such as Broccoli, Italian Squash, Radish, Sugarsnap Peas, Beets, various Lettuces, Frisee and more. Honestly, the first bite was a bit off-putting: I'm so used to "Ramen" = "hearty, very savory Pork, Chicken and/or Fish-based Broths with Chashu Pork Slices and Egg, etc." that tasting extremely *fresh*, vibrant Vegetables was something I wasn't initially prepared for.

But after a few bites, my perceptions change: This is truly a celebration of the local Farmer's Market Vegetables, with a bowl that really highlights the pure, fresh earthiness of the Beets, the genuine vibrancy of fresh Broccoli and Cauliflower, and much more. In this day-and-age of a fast food nation, and with so many restaurants giving Vegetables second-class status (or drowning them in sauces and burying them behind other things), Nakamura-san's choice here is a bold one. You can *taste* the idiosyncrasies of each Vegetable, truly, and the flavors are wonderful.


The Heirloom Tomato Ramen is another wild-sounding flavor, but the combination is brilliant: Imagine the best Heirloom Tomatoes you've had - the utter *sweetness* and *loveliness* that only local Farmer's Market Heirloom Tomatoes can yield (not to be confused with most Tart / Sour / Unripened / Mainstream Tomatoes) - add in some fresh Basil and excellent Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and combine with the freshly-made Torigara Chicken Broth, and that's the Heirloom Tomato Ramen.


Taking a bite of the Organic Ramen Noodles, a bit of the Chicken Soup and the Heirloom Tomatoes in each bite creates an amazing vortex of happiness: The Spring and Summer, a bit of Sweet and Savory and the play of the tiny Heirloom Tomatoes exploding in your mouth with juiciness while mixing with the Noodles. Excellent! :)

A word should be said about the Organic Ramen Noodles: Chef Nakamura created a special recipe for the Noodles using Durum Wheat Semolina instead of the traditional Kansui (an alkaline solution) to give his Ramen Noodles the right level of "chew" / elasticity that he was hoping for. It's currently made exclusively for his restaurant via Sun Noodle. And after trying out these Organic Ramen Noodles in all of his Ramen, the result is simply amazing in the fact that it has the chewiness and nice texture of traditional Ramen, but made in a completely original method that's different than normal.


The Essence Ramen is their simplest flavor, but in some ways I find it just as satisfying: Essentially the original Chicken Broth mixed with select Seasonal Micro Vegetables, it really brings out the flavor of the Broth and Noodles. Unlike the Californian, the Essence is about the utter simplicity and goodness and purity of the Noodle and Broth.



The Grilled Chicken Ramen on the other hand, is the only Ramen on their menu that comes with some type of meat (but note that you can add Grilled Chicken to any of the Ramen offerings as a topping). It features their signature Grilled Chicken on top of their Micro Garden Vegetables and Chicken Broth Noodle Soup.


It sounds completely boring, :) but with each successive Ramen dish we try, the more Nakamura-san's brilliance comes shining through. With such a light, pure Chicken Broth base, in this case, the Grilled Chicken's smokiness and peppery qualities add yet another fascinating dimension to the soup. When tried back-to-back, you can really start seeing how each flavor offered stands out in its own way. The Grilled Chicken itself is dark meat Chicken, tasting extremely *fresh* (cooked the same day) and tender, instead of the 1-3+ day old Chashu meat served at too many Ramen shops around town.


The Marsala Ramen is a homemade English-style Curry featuring 32 different spices mixed into the original Chicken Broth Noodle Soup.


It's essentially their Californian (or most of the Californian's 30+ Farmer's Market Vegetables) in an amazingly balanced, nuanced Curry Chicken Soup. What's brilliant about this one is that the Curry doesn't overpower everything. Nakamura-san uses just the right amount of Curry, without turning this dish into a thick, gloopy mess, which is what one might think Curry + Ramen might be like. You still get the light Chicken Broth and the vibrant Green of the Farmer's Market Vegetables, just touched by a spicy, extremely aromatic Curry flavor.


Back on their Small Plates side of the menu, the Fresh Mozzarella with Five Salts is arguably one of the best dishes at Ramen California, depending on the type of cheese that's fresh that day.


Along with the Ramen, this reflects Nakamura-san's sensibilities as a chef: Simple, pure flavors that really celebrate the essence of what that particular dish is about, rather than drowning them or altering them too much with pre-made Sauces (which is why Nakamura-san doesn't feature a Shoyu Ramen here).

Here, it's a celebration of Fresh Burrata Cheese (when available) set against 1 changing condition: The type of Salt used. The first bite we try features English Flake Salt, which is surprisingly not very salty at all. The creaminess of the Burrata combined with the English Flake Salt is just outstanding. :) The next bite features a Hawaiian Mineral Salt, which is just a bit more helpful in drawing out a savory quality to the Burrata; it's more pungent than the English salt, but still wonderful.


The Hawaiian Charcoal Salt has just a touch of smokiness, but again, not very salty. The Australian River Salt is my favorite of the group, and finally the Guerande Sea Salt from France rounds out the tasting, and is the saltiest (but still very light) of the group. On another visit, they use a Fresh Mozzarella instead of the Burrata, which is still tasty, but not as creamy of course.


Their Mushroom Zegovia Style is named after Segovia, Spain, where Nakamura-san first tried a mushroom dish that inspired him to create this recipe. This turned out to be a simple dish of Crimini Mushrooms sauteed with fresh Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and English Flake Salt. I love Mushrooms, but overall this was a rather straightforward offering.


The next dish is one of the daily specials, Steam Grilled Yellow Eye Rockfish. Probably closest to Kasago, Chef Nakamura first steams the Yellow Eye Rockfish and then finishes it off on the grill, served atop the delicious Tsongas Tomatoes, Crimini Mushrooms and Extra Virgin Olive Oil.


The Yellow Eye Rockfish is a leaner, tougher fish, but it stands up to the other ingredients nicely, and again goes back to the "simple, clean flavor" culinary point-of-view of Ramen California.


One of the highlights of my multiple visits was being able to meet up with Rameniac and my 'dachi Keizo of Go Ramen!, two of the Kings of Ramen Slurping, and being able to enjoy and learn more about Ramen Noodle goodness from them. (^_^) The third King, Edjusted of The Ramen Blog was unfortunately not able to make it out, but we pushed on. :)

Besides the Ramen, we decide to try their Alpine Sausages and Gnocchi in Tomato Sauce.


The Alpine Sausage turns out to be a decent, but overly salty piece of meat, but with a good fragrance. The Gnocchi tastes fresh and tender, but it's nothing standout. A decent dish if you're in the mood for a Small Plates Pasta to share while waiting for the Ramen.


The Fresh Mozzarella with Tsongas Tomatoes uses the same Fresh Mozzarella from the 5 Salt dish, but served with some spectacular Heirloom Tomatoes (the same ones in the Heirloom Tomato Ramen). Sweet, fragrant, and truly a perfect pairing. :)



They were sold out again of the Reggiano Cheese Tofu Ramen, but on my 3rd visit, I was able to finally try this popular dish: Nakamura-san uses many of the fresh Vegetables from the Californian Ramen, and serves it with a ladle full of a housemade Reggiano Cheese Tofu(!).



My initial reaction is one of uncertainty, but once you mix the ladle full of the Reggiano Cheese Tofu into the light, pure Torigara Chicken Soup, the result is truly wondrous! A beautiful, silky, creamy, buttery quality spreads across the entire bowl of Ramen! It elevates this dish to something I've never sampled before, with a good translucent lusciousness that still allows you to enjoy the Farmer's Market Vegetables in their fresh glory and the Ramen Noodles as well. Outstanding! :)



Service is decent at this up-and-coming Ramen restaurant, and par for the course: Simply flag down a waitress for your needs as they pass by. The Small Plates and Ramen prices range from $3.25 - $13.20 (for the gigantic 40 oz serving), with Organic Noodle refills (Kaedama) and an extra Topping of Grilled Chicken for $1.50 each.

On all 3 of our visits, Nakamura-san is a ball of dynamic energy, teaching his assistant, Chef Masahito "Mark" Nizobe, as well as cooking furiously, and he even made time to come out front and greet each table of customers and ask them how the food was. What's impressive is just how dedicated he is to the craft of Ramen-making and cooking in general. He has instruments to accurately measure the exact Temperature of the Ramen Soup, and also tracks the Magnesium Content, pH Balance, and Conductivity in the Ramen before serving it(!).



Ultimately, Ramen California represents the potential for something very exciting in the world of Ramen, providing innovative, radical changes to the concept of "Ramen," using local Farmer's Market-fresh Vegetables, Organic Noodles inspired by Italian Pasta-making processes, resulting in a lighter, healthier, fresher interpretation of Ramen Noodle Soup.

It's Ramen unfettered by classic conventions, driven by a quest to make a new style of Ramen for California. You know it's serious when even Chef Shigemi Kawahara of the legendary Ippudo (another of the Four Devas of Ramen) is cheering on Chef Nakamura to create a new style of Ramen for the future. This is definitely something I never thought I'd see in a Ramen restaurant in So Cal, but at the same time, it makes a lot of sense. It's celebrating one of the greatest strengths of California, the wonderfully fresh and bountiful Produce, and the idea of healthy and tasty cuisine focused in a bowl of Ramen.


One warning though: Salt Fiends, MSG Fiends and Heavy Sauce Fiends need not apply. In many ways Ramen California is the antithesis of local favorites Santouka and Daikokuya: Instead of a super-hearty, fatty and savory bowl of Noodles, Ramen California's version is airy, light and delicious in its own way.

The question now is do we really want this radically different style of Ramen? It still feels very "young" in its flavors - not quite at the pinnacle - yet with Nakamura-san constantly developing the Broth, it's a strong step toward a new style of Ramen that may one day spread across the world. While I still crave the traditional wondrous Ramen in Japan, I'm glad that we're lucky enough to have the option for a lighter, purer, new California-style of Ramen. And with a Ramen Master like Nakamura-san behind the helm, I'm looking forward to even more innovative, unique styles of Ramen to come.

Rating: 8.2 (out of 10.0)

Ramen California
24231 Crenshaw Blvd., Unit C
Torrance, CA 90505
Tel: (310) 530-2749

Hours: [Lunch] Tues - Sun, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
[Dinner] Tues - Sun, 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays.

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