Exile Kiss

From as far back as I can remember, I've always had a fascination with Pork Carnitas. But thinking back on it now, I have no idea why, considering the vast majority of the places I've ordered Carnitas from in L.A. have been decent-to-mediocre at best, being too dry, overfried, too salty or tasting like it's reheated Pork from a week ago. Perhaps it's the craving for a bit of pure Pork simplicity - slowly braised chunks of Pork in a warm Corn Tortilla - that's pushed me to order Carnitas at each new place I've come across.

But over the years, I reached a point where I had nearly given up on finding fresh, succulent Pork Carnitas, until I saw a discussion from Eat_Nopal and Dommy! on the various styles of this dish (the differences between the juicier, stew-like Carnitas and the fried, crisped versions). From there, the conversation continued with mi amigo streetgourmetla joining in, and I learned that specialists in Mexico featured *multiple types* of Carnitas, not just 1 generic "Carnitas" dish. I was stunned and excited, but also saddened, since I realized I had never heard of a specialist in L.A. that featured more than 1 type. And when even a hardcore Mexican Cuisine Hound like Eat_Nopal didn't know of an L.A. specialist, I began preparations for a trip to Mexico instead.

Then a few weeks later, I ran across a great review from Jonathan Gold about a restaurant that served up multiple types of Carnitas... here in L.A.! That restaurant turned out to be Metro Balderas, and after experiencing the mouth-watering porcine preparations over the past four visits, it's become my go-to spot for delicious Pork Carnitas, served up 8(!) different ways.

Metro Balderas is a family operation, with four locations across L.A., each one run by a different member of the family. The original branch is in Northridge, run by Chef Abraham Guzman, with the Highland Park location run by his sister, Jasmine Guzman. As we arrive at the Highland Park branch of Metro Balderas, we see the humble, hand-written sign greeting us with something I had never seen before in L.A.: 8 different types of Pork Carnitas. :)

The 8 different types of Pork Carnitas are available only on Saturdays and Sundays, and is cooked in a D.F. (Distrito Federal (Mexico City))-style based on a recipe learned from their mother. The Carnitas are fried in Lard first, then slow-cooked and braised in its own juices, a process taking at least 4 hours, and after having tried all 8 types, the time and love put into these creations shine through and through. :)

We sit down in the festively colored, simply-decorated eatery, and after a bit, the first half of the tacos arrive.

It should be noted that the Tacos served here are *huge*, containing at least 200% - 250% the amount of meat in a normal taco truck Taco. I start with their Buche Carnitas Taco (Braised Pork Stomach Taco). "Buche" can also refer to Esophagus Tacos, but at Metro Balderas they use the Pig's Stomach.

The Buche has a good, light chewiness, a bit of elasticity that gives way to a soft, braised quality. Lightly salty and clean-tasting (made that day), it's the best Buche Taco I've had in L.A.

Their Cuerito Carnitas Taco (Braised Pork Skin Taco) is the saltiest of the offerings (but not overwhelmingly so), with the Skin absorbing the most braising liquids throughout the cooking. It's wonderfully pungent, porky and unctuous with this viscosity that coats your lips and mouth as it melts. Delicious! :)

If the Cuerito (Braised Pork Skin) isn't juicy and lush enough for you, then the give the Trompa Carnitas Taco (Braised Pig Snout Taco) a try.

The Trompa really shows off the 4 hour braising time with ultra juicy, fatty, sultry pieces of super tender Pork goodness. At times it almost tasted like I was eating chunks of Pork Fat, but not as overwhelming as if it literally was. Still, it's quite tasty and a must-order if you love that type of texture.

The last half of the 8 types of Carnitas arrive at this point, with the heftier cuts served together.

I love Pork Ribs, so I was really looking forward to the Costilla Carnitas Taco (Braised Pork Ribs Taco).

The Pork Ribs taste very fresh, with a nice crunch from the bits of cartilage interspersed with the Pork Rib meat. It's lean, but still "dry moist." And while that was pretty good, during my 2nd, 3rd and 4th visits, the Costilla Carnitas have been even better: They've had a little bit of fat mixed in with the Pork Ribs and Cartilage, with a wonderful brightness and clarity. I'm able to pick out more of the Garlic, Bay Leaf and Oranges than during our first visit. For the leaner style of Carnitas, the Costilla is definitely my favorite! (^_^)

Perhaps the leanest of all the cuts of Carnitas served here is the Maciza Carnitas Taco (Braised Pork Butt Taco), which despite its English name, is actually the Pork Shoulder.

The Maciza has the least amount of remaining fat after the cooking process, and is on the dry side, slightly crisped and lightly salty. It's probably the healthiest of the 8 types of Carnitas here, and is the closest to the texture quality of the typical Carnitas found around L.A., except here, the Maciza Carnitas taste like they were made just few hours before - very fresh - and not like they were reheated from the previous day's leftovers.

And on the other side of the spectrum lies Nana Carnitas Taco (Braised Pork Uterus Taco).

The Braised Pork Uterus Taco is intense, dense, thick and chewy. While the term "earthy" has been bandied about to describe all sorts of foods, there is perhaps, no better term to describe the Nana Taco. I think I prefer the metallic, iron taste of Liver over Nana, but it's definitely worth trying once if you enjoy the rarer cuts of meat.

But if there's one type of Carnitas that outshines the rest, it might very well be the Oreja Carnitas Taco (Braised Pig Ear Taco).

It has just the right balance of fat and delicious crunchiness from the Cartilage, being at once wonderfully porky, succulent and crunchy, yet still having that moist, sexy fattiness you get with something like Pork Belly and Bacon, but here, it's in a more manageable, tiny package. (^_^) It was so outstanding, I had to make sure it wasn't a fluke, and in the 4 times I've ordered the Oreja, it's been consistently delicious.

Finally, the Surtida Carnitas Taco is a combination of the Trompa, Oreja, Cuerito, Costilla, Buche and Maciza cuts, basically all the types above, except Nana (Uterus).

It's a very good combination and a great exploration of texture with each bite, containing a bit of the fatty juiciness of cuts like the Pork Skin and Snout, while still having the crunch of the cartilage from the Pork Ribs and Ears.

Service is pretty straightforward at Metro Balderas: You order at the counter and take a seat, and the food is brought out when ready. All 8 types of Carnitas Tacos are sold for $1.99, which is a bargain considering the slow-cooked loving care that's gone into them, and the fact that, as aforementioned, each one of these Tacos contain about ~2 to 2.5 times the amount of meat of a normal street taco.

After a great absence of a Pork Carnitas specialist in L.A., it seems like we finally have something to celebrate, with the simple, mouth-watering 8 types of Carnitas of Metro Balderas. Chef Guzman's Carnitas have been so consistently good, that I can't imagine how I got by without them all these years. Like the paradigm shift I experienced with Carne Asada recently in Tijuana, I can probably never go back to just the 1 type of generic, reheated, fried "Carnitas" served around town. While they may not have the rarer Carnitas de Pato (Duck Carnitas), and while they may only serve it on weekends, I can't wait to go back to Metro Balderas to get my Taco fix of Costilla Carnitas (Braised Pork Ribs) and Oreja Carnitas (Braised Pig Ears) amongst other things.

Rating: 8.5 (out of 10.0)

*** Reminder: Carnitas served only on Saturday and Sunday. ***

Metro Balderas
5305 N. Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90042
Tel: (323) 478-8383

Hours: Mon - Sat, 9:00 a.m. 10:00 p.m.
Sun, 9:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.

Launching a new restaurant is always a challenging task, but even more daunting in our current economic times. With the right focus and hook, a new restaurant will be on the path to eventual success. But when they don't deliver on their hook, what they claim to focus on, then that's a problem.

For the newly opened Japanese Pub, Niwattori (sic)(meaning "Rooster" or "Domesticated Chicken"), their focus is in creating an "upscale Izakaya (Japanese Pub)" according to our server, with a bold proclamation of focusing on Omotenashi, which is the Japanese concept of genuine, heartfelt manners of the utmost order. It's not simply "5 Star service" at a high-end restaurant; it can be a shopkeeper warmly and genuinely welcoming you to their store, hoping they can really help you find what you're looking for, offering you some tea or water as you browse, and then honestly thanking you when you leave, regardless of if you bought anything or not. In some ways, a restaurant advertising Omotenashi almost turns the sincere concept into an overt, disingenuous marketing angle. At Niwattori, they advertise this angle front-and-center, taking the entire first page of their menu.

During my 1st visit to Niwattori, I bring along an avid Japanese Cuisine Hound, Jotaru. After waiting at the entrance for a couple minutes (with no one up front to assume the maitre d' responsibilities), we're greeted by our eventual server, who takes us to a table. Niwattori is a relatively small restaurant, with a modern, sleek decor and ambiance.

Perusing the menu, a strange sense of deja vu sets in as I'm reading the kanji and kana Japanese names for the dishes. I later discover the reason for that: The menu at Niwattori was created by the head chef at YUZU (next door), Kazu Akatsuku, who was hired as consultant for this new restaurant (Niwattori and YUZU have different ownership). While the dishes are mainly new creations by Kazu-san, and very Chicken-centric, they have similar flavor profiles and ideas to YUZU. It should also be noted that while he was the consulting chef for their menu, Niwattori is looking for an understudy, to learn the menu and recipes from Kazu-san so that he can return to focus on his original restaurant.

We begin with their Paripari Torikawa Wakame to Ponzu (Crispy Chicken Skin and Seaweed with Ponzu Sauce).

The Deep Fried Chicken Skin is fried to a Pork Rind consistency, a little puffy and soft at times, instead of super crispy, but it's still very fresh-tasting and delicious.

When mixed with the bitter zestiness of the Kaiware (Radish Sprouts), the brightness of the Kyuuri (Cucumber), Konbu (Kelp) and a bit of the lovely spiciness of the Momiji Oroshi (Grated Daikon Radish with Red Chili Pepper) and tart Ponzu Sauce, this makes for an interesting alternate starter salad.

Arriving next is the Tsukune "Kari, Fuwa" Age Mitarashian (Fried, Ground Chicken Meatballs with Soy Sauce-based Sweet Sauce).

While ostensibly looking like it could be something overly sweet or salty, Kazu-san's light touch comes through: The Tsukune (Chicken Meatballs) are slightly crisped on the outside, moist inside albeit a little mealy (it's too lean), with a subtle Mitarashian flavor (slightly sweet and still savory).

Their utsuwa (earthenware plates) should be noted for being rustic, yet beautiful, and very well made.

Their Sunagimo to Hatsu no Sakashioiri (Stir-Fried Chicken Gizzards and Hearts with Sake) arrive next.

Up till now, the plating and presentation have been leaning towards the "upscale" aspect that our server mentioned earlier, but this dish looks a bit unappetizing, even for me (and I love Sunagimo and Hatsu). To be fair, it's a bit hard to present a mass quantity of Chicken Hearts and Gizzards in any stylish manner, but it should be noted for those that might get queasy when seeing this dish.

Without the more popular Yakitori / Charcoal Grilled cooking method, you're left with a plate of soft, but chewy Chicken organs that have a mild, fragrant Sake flavor infusion. It's good with some Beer or Sake, but also underwhelming when compared to the more satisfying Yakitori interpretation more commonly found.

Niwattori bounces back nicely with their Yaki Bata- Konnyaku (Grilled Konjac with Butter).

Konnyaku is almost flavorless, so I'm always interested to see how chefs manage to make Konnyaku into something delicious. There's a pleasing aroma wafting up from the dish, and taking a bite, it's a genuinely savory, tasty Konnyaku creation: Chef Kazu grills the Konnyaku first, creating this great texture (normally it's slightly gelatinous), and when sauteed in Butter with a bit of the smoky, lightly briny Katsuobushi (Dried Bonito Shavings), you have the makings of one of the best tasting Konnyaku dishes around town.

We finally get our Sake order (one of the early warning signs about the service), Daishichi Sake from Fukushima, Japan. There's an initial burn, a little rough to start, but then mellows out to a sweet, almost silky feeling as it goes down, with an overall nice, slightly fragrant aroma.

Chef Kazu's Tori to Kinoko no Nibitashi (Chicken and Mushrooms Simmered in Light Dashi Broth) arrives next.

Nibitashis are inherently lighter on the flavor spectrum, but this one feels a bit too straightforward, lacking the melding of flavors one hopes to find in a good Nibitashi: The Aona (Japanese Greens), Shimeji and Eringi Mushrooms and Chicken Breast all tasted fine individually, but needed more time together.

I had high hopes for the Kushi Katsu Moriawase (Deep Fried Skewers with a Variety of Ingredients). Featuring 5 different Deep Fried Skewers, we start off with their Buta (Pork), which tastes fresh, but a bit boring. There's a good crunch to the breading on the outside, but it's oversaturated with oil, fried at the wrong temperature.

Their Salmon Skewer is sadly, completely overcooked, dry and chunky. The Nasu (Eggplant) is just cooked-through, soft and tasting like a slice of Eggplant with just a sprinkle of Sea Salt. The Ebifurai (Shrimp) is better, with a fresh, firm meatiness with a light oceany undertone.

But the best of the 5 Kushi Katsu would have to be the Beef Steak Skewer: Surprisingly juicy and tender, the thinly pounded Steak proves to be the most savory, but sadly, it's also a touch too greasy, saturated with oil.

What's frustrating is seeing the inconsistencies with their frying technique: While the Kushi Katsu is disappointing, their Tebasaki Amakara Age (Deep Fried Chicken Wings with Spicy Sweet Sauce) is nearly perfect, with an excellent, fried-just-right crunch and taste, without being too oily.

Besides the great crunchy crust, the Amakara sauce from Chef Kazu has this wonderful understated brilliance: Just lightly sweet with a subtle kick from the spices and still retaining the mouth-watering aspects of good Fried Chicken. :) Definitely one of the better dishes on the menu.

The first dish from their Yakimono (Grilled Items) sub-menu arrives soon after: Tori Umeyaki (Grilled Chicken Breast with Sour Plum Paste).

Niwattori uses a regular gas-fired grill for all their items, resulting in a straightforward taste, but lacking the smokiness of Binchotan (Japanese Charcoal). The Chicken Breast is quite lean, but the Ume Sauce (Japanese Plum Sauce) thankfully imparts enough moisture and delectable tartness to keep it interesting.

Their Tezukuri Satsuma Age Aburiyaki (Grilled Homemade Deep Fried Fish Cake) arrives at the same time as the Umeyaki.

The Satsuma Age is decent, with a good crisp crust and each bite having a pliable, yet firm Fish Cake texture, with a nice crunch from the Gobo (Burdock Root). It's not something I'd order again, but a solid option for those craving Fish Cake.

Our last item from their Yakimono menu arrives at this point, Tori Shoniku Negiyaki, Tare (Grilled Chicken with Green Onion in Tare Sauce).

Sadly, it's very one-note, with a decent portion of dark meat Grilled Chicken (over gas grill), with a light Tare (Sweet Soy Sauce).

The next dish is a classic Izakaya offering which Niwattori gets just right: Tori Kara Age "Dokkan" Negidare (Deep Fried Chicken served with Special Green Onion Sauce).

Perfectly fried, crispy chunks of Chicken bathed in a light Sauce of Mirin, Dashi and Shoyu (Soy Sauce), topped with a giant mound of Green Onions. It's fragrant and crispy and delicious (although the Yu Rin Chi at Izakaya Bincho is still my favorite, with more depth of flavor and better execution).

We finish up this visit with the Hie Hie Tori Su-pu Kakegohan (Chilled Chicken Soup with Rice served with Garnish).

Initially, it looks a bowl of Chilled Shredded Chicken with some Tsukemono (Pickled Vegetables) over Chilled Rice. But then, the waitress pours the contents of the teapot over the Rice Bowl and you get the full glory of this dish.

While it sounds rather unappetizing, the Chilled Chicken Soup is excellent: There's an initial burst of a Torigara (Chicken Bone) and Shio (Salt) Broth, but then it finishes with zero aftertaste as it leaves the mouth(!). It's bizarre and delicious and refreshing. Probably our favorite item on the menu for this visit. :)

It was about 1/3 of the way through our 1st visit that we noticed some service issues - there are only 2 waitresses and no busboys taking care of the entire restaurant (but it's not that large) - but on my 2nd visit, it got worse from the very beginning: We were greeted with a standard "Welcome!" (in Japanese) but the smile from the greeting faded before she even finished speaking the words (turning into a frown), and then we were quickly seated, with our server rushing off to the kitchen.

No matter, I was anxious to try some other new creations from Chef Kazu. In placing our order, another sign of trouble came up: Niwattori was already removing dishes from the menu (they had only been open about ~2.5 weeks at this point). Out of pure coincidence, the first 4 dishes I wanted to order were all "no longer available" on the menu; our waitress mentioned that they were too complicated for the kitchen and/or had sourcing problems (not a good sign).

The first dish to arrive is the Gobo Isobe Age (Deep Fried Burdock with Dried Seaweed) served with Matchashio (Matcha Green Tea Infused Sea Salt) and Kare-jio (Curry Infused Sea Salt).

The enjoyment of Gobo (Burdock Root) is really subjective, with some of my friends thinking it tastes too much like you're eating an extreme root from the ground, while others (including myself) really enjoy the fibrous nature of Gobo. :) Niwattori's version is standout for accentuating the woodsy, earthy, fibrous Gobo with the briny saltiness of Seaweed, and then paired with a great Matchashio. The Kare-jio is a little too pungent and overpowering for the Gobo.

As much as I'm looking forward to this next dish, I have low expectations due to the sourcing: Zenpin Hiyashi Do-fu (Fresh Chilled Tofu with Vegetable Garnish served with Special Sauce).

Having been lucky enough to experience extremely fresh Tofu (made in-house) in Japan, I'm still searching for a good replication of that experience here in L.A. And Niwattori's version tastes like a standard, store-bought Silken Tofu, lacking the vibrancy and focus I was hoping it might achieve.

It's not bad, and taking a spoonful of the Chilled Tofu with a bit of the Kyuuri (Cucumber) and Konbu (Kelp) and dipping it into the light Shoyu Negi (Soy Sauce Green Onion) Sauce makes for a decent, cooling starter.

Continuing on, the Tebasaki Shioyaki (Grilled Chicken Wings with Sea Salt) arrives next. Given the location of Niwattori (in the heart of the South Bay, near some of the most popular Yakitori (Grilled Chicken Skewer) restaurants in So Cal), serving up a version of Tebasaki grilled over gas is just putting yourself at a major disadvantage.

The Tebasaki are just fine, with a decent grill technique (none of them being too overcooked), but lack the enticing smokiness of the best Yakitoriyas in So Cal.

But it's their next dish that nearly saves the entire experience and is easily my favorite dish on the menu: Tori to Rakkyou no Makuro Amazuan (Deep Fried Chicken and Japanese Shallot Glazed with Sweet and Sour Black Vinegar Sauce).

Imagine a juicy morsel of Chicken with a crispy sliver of Chicken Skin, coated with a slightly tart and sweet Black Vinegar that has just the right amount of fattiness and meatiness. Outstanding! :)

At this point, I'm bracing myself for a letdown with the next dish, but thankfully it's not too bad: Tori Hakkaisan Hon Jyozo Kasuzukeyaki (Grilled Marinated Chicken with Hakkaisan Sake).

One thing that's a little surprising is that about 1/3 of the Chicken is still undercooked (nearly raw) and blatantly visible for the server (and customer) to see. For the parts that were cooked through, there's a fragrant Sake undertone and even without Binchotan, the Marinated Chicken is enjoyable.

While most of the usual Izakaya dishes are nowhere to be found on this menu, the humorously named "Noodle and Rice After Drink" section of the menu still has some favorites. :) We order the Tori Soba (Ramen Noodle with Chicken in Hot Soy Broth).

I'm always a huge fan of Ramen Noodles, so when I heard they served Ramen (even though I know Izakayas serving Ramen have disappointed me repeatedly in the past), I had to try it. :) Niwattori's version has a few problems: Firstly, there's no actual pieces of Chicken in the dish (but I chalk it up to them meaning the Torigara (Chicken Bone) Soup itself at this point). Secondly, the Noodles they use have a distinct egg flavor and taste just like standard Lo Mein Noodles instead of Ramen. And sadly, the Broth itself tastes mainly of pure Shoyu (Soy Sauce) with a touch of Torigara, lacking any complexity whatsoever.

Probably the best dish from my 3rd visit would have to be the Mushitako to Kureson no Salada (Steamed Octopus and Watercress Salad).

The Steamed Octopus is cooked perfectly, having a light chew, but being quite tender and working well with the spicy, slightly bitter Watercress. Unfortunately it's also a bit messy, with the raw Watercress stalks poking out in all directions and making eating this Salad a bit hard (in order to get a bit of the Octopus, some Carrot and Watercress with each bite).

Finally, we finish with another classic dish: Fuwafuwa Yonshoku Torisoboro Don (Crumbled Minced Chicken, Fish Seasoning, Egg and Vegetables served over Rice).

After mixing up all the toppings, the Soboro Don is surprisingly bland: I enjoy a lighter hand on seasonings, but this dish tasted like the Ground Chicken had no salt added to it, with the shredded Egg being unseasoned as well. My guest (who enjoys Soboro Dons a lot) also nods in agreement: It tastes like a super-light, healthy version of Soboro Don that ultimately is a bit too one note.

Service at Izakayas (Japanese Pubs) can be hit-or-miss, especially when at the more popular establishments around town (e.g., when they run at full capacity on a busy weekend with more Sake, Beer and additional orders being requested constantly by the clientele :). But the problem at Niwattori goes deeper than that: They loudly and proudly proclaim their angle of "Omotenashi" (the heartfelt, genuine, beyond-expectations type of exceptional manners / service) and when held to that standard, it utterly fails. But even looking past that, the service on a "regular level" is sub-par at best, with there being only 2 waitresses serving the whole restaurant, with no busboys. It's more the management's fault than anyone for understaffing the restaurant, but even with limited help, the servers seem to going through the motions more than anything. On my 3 visits, we've had finished plates piling up at our table, requests for more drinks (Sake, Tea) were met with either rolled eyes or an exasperated expression, and for all 3 visits the restaurant was between ~30% - 50% full at the most.

Prices range from $3.80 - $13.50 per dish, and we averaged about ~$43 per person (including tax and tip).

It's always great when a restaurant opens up with an interesting and/or good focus. For Niwattori, with the sleek, minimalist modern decor and declaration of Omotenashi on their menu, it's about trying to create an upscale, classy Izakaya (Japanese Pub) with a focus on Chicken dishes. Unfortunately, Niwattori falters on the menu (with some notable exceptions like their Tori Rakkyou (Deep Fried Chicken and Japanese Shallot Glazed with Black Vinegar Sauce)), and completely fails on their upscale, Omotenashi service angle.

The ultimate expression of Omotenashi I've experienced is probably at Hyotei in Kyoto: When our taxi arrived at the front gate, the head waitress and second waitress were waiting out front to greet us and guide us to our dining room. They kowtowed and patiently waited as we took our first bite of the food, being on hand to make sure that there were no problems, and throughout that wonderful evening, you could feel the warmth and sincerity for every interaction with them.

And while Hyotei is a 300 year old, top-class Kaiseki establishment, the concept of Omotenashi can be seen in many other examples: When I was trying to find the little Yuba specialist, Komameya, I was lost and after asking for directions from a shopkeeper, she took the time to leave her post, and personally guide us on a ~10+ minute walk through a maze of neighborhood streets, helping us find the restaurant, all the while, cheerful and earnest in helping out some strangers who didn't even shop at her store.

And even with an award-winning, top class restaurant like Ryugin, with a chef who's won multiple awards, we saw the chef come out and personally greet and genuinely ask about the food at each table, and who, at the end of the evening, saw us to the exit of the restaurant, bowed and thanked us... and who remained standing and smiling all the way until we reached the intersection at the end of the alley (minutes later). As I turned around, he was still there, and he bowed one more time, making sure we found our way out. Those are just a few examples of real Omotenashi, sincere, heartfelt manners and service, something Niwattori would do well to learn from.

Rating: 4.7 (out of 10.0)

Niwattori
1231 Cabrillo Ave., Suite 107
Torrance, CA 90501
Tel: (310) 781-9200

Hours: Mon - Fri, 5:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sat - Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.