Unrealized Potential - A Tale of Two Specialists - Katsuhana & El Borrego De Oro

(Note: I was originally going to hold off on writing about these 2 places, but having received some e-mails asking about Tonkatsu and Barbacoa de Borrego in LA, I figured the time was right.)

When opening a new eatery, the decision on becoming a specialty restaurant - to really focus on one type of dish - is a huge boon. You already stand out from the crowd of more generalized, expansive menus, and what you lack in variety, you make up for in excellence in your specialty, at least that's the hope. For 2 specialists in L.A. - Katsuhana (specializing in Deep Fried Pork and Chicken Cutlets), and El Borrego de Oro (focusing on Slow-Roasted Lamb in Maguey Leaves) - the intent is there, but the execution falls short.


* Katsuhana *
(A Tonkatsu Specialist)
While the origins of Tonkatsu, or Deep-Fried Pork Cutlet, originated from a Japanese interpretation of the Western-style Cutlet from the Meiji Era, today, it's become an intrinsic part of Japanese cuisine. A great version of Tonkatsu usually involves a perfectly fried Pork Cutlet, with a satisfying crispy, breaded exterior, giving way to succulent juicy Pork. Add a bit of sweet and tart Tonkatsu Sauce (which tastes a bit like a thicker, alternative to Worcestershire Sauce) and a bit of plump, steamed Rice and you have a meal that brings a smile to your face each and every time. :)

It's hard not to love Tonkatsu, after all, what's not to like about Deep-Fried, Breaded Pork Cutlets? :) Tonkatsu has become popular enough that it's easy to find many Japanese and Hawaiian restaurants offering up the dish alongside many other items, due to popularity alone. Most Tonkatsu (and Chicken Katsu) dishes I've tried over the years in So Cal have ranged from horrid to good, but after having experienced a Tonkatsu specialist in Tokyo a while back (whose entire focus is just on the glory of the Deep-Fried Pork Cutlet in a variety of different grades of meat), it's hard to go back to versions that are offered out of popularity, and not because the kitchen can actually expertly execute the dish.


Katsuhana, located inside the Torrance Mitsuwa Market food court area, is one of the very few Tonkatsu specialists in L.A. / O.C. Their menu consists of 2 types of Tonkatsu, a Chicken Katsu (Cutlet), and a few other fried offerings to take advantage of their frying capabilities, namely Fried Shrimp and Crab Croquettes. Their combinations and extras revolve around their different Cutlets, and upon ordering I discover they actually serve their food in real utsuwa (earthenware) bowls and plates, despite being in a food court (which is definitely a nice touch instead of eating out of styrofoam).

Their lone Chicken offering is their Jidori Katsu Teishoku (Free Range, Natural Chicken Cutlet Set).


Besides the earthenware, the set comes with a Tonjiru (Pork Soup), Potato Salad, Cabbage, Pickles, Steamed Rice, and Hot Tea. The best part is that they actually serve all their Katsu (Cutlets) on metal racks, which helps prevent the bottom of the crispy cutlets from getting soggy and dreary (even some of the nicer Izakayas in So Cal I've been to don't do this, but should).


Taking a bite, there's a good, crisp crunch giving way to slightly dry, lean Chicken Breast meat. The Chicken itself tastes very fresh, but is a bit plain. But beyond the crunch of the breading, the oil itself tastes a little bit old (nothing really bad, but not as clean as it could be).

They also provide 2 different types of Tonkatsu Sauce, one is a straight Tonkatsu Sauce (more traditional), and the other one is a Sesame Tonkatsu Sauce blend. Their regular sauce turns out to be too sweet for my tastes, with the Sesame being my favorite of the two. Be sure to ask for some Karashi (Japanese Yellow Mustard) as well, if they forget to provide it for you.


During another visit, feeling a bit ravenous, I order the Large version of their Ro-su Katsu (Pork Loin Cutlet) Set, which is only $1 more than their Regular version.


In terms of value, this has to be one of the most absurd giveaways I've seen: For $1 more, Katsuhana serves you 2 large Pork Loin Cutlets(!), enough for 2 people.


The Pork Loin Cutlet itself is a bit leaner than most places, dense but still somewhat moist. The breading still has a crunch to it, but in terms of flavor, their Jidori is better, with this Tonkatsu lacking in juiciness and real porky essence.


A note about their complementary sides: Their Tonjiru (Pork Soup) is a bit too salty and gritty for my tastes. The Potato Salad is decent and straightforward, with a mild creaminess and chunks of soft potato throughout.

Finally, the last of their specialty Cutlets is supposed to be the best one: Hire Katsu (Pork Tenderloin Cutlet) Set.


Hire Katsu (pronounced "Hee-Reh") is usually the most expensive of all the general Katsu types, but at Katsuhana, it's the exact same price as their regular Pork Loin Cutlet.


The breading is just odd for this one: The battered coating is crispy thin and is sadly separated from the meat, so that picking up a piece of the Hire Katsu results in the crispy shell, falling away from the meat, with you having to put both separate pieces in your mouth at the same time if you want the proper bite.

The Pork Tenderloin is definitely more tender and juicy than the regular Pork Cutlet, but it's also a bit tough in parts (not consistently tender throughout). Add to that, the fall apart fried batter, and a general plainness and it's another disappointment.


Service is pretty basic since this is a food court stand: You order at the register and wait for your number to be called. There are plenty of tables inside the Torrance Mitsuwa food court, with an overflow area with tables on the side as well. Prices range from $4.60 - $15.90.

From the limited, focused menu on 3 types of Katsu (Cutlets), to the real utsuwa (earthenware) serving dishes, to the metal racks to prevent the Katsu from getting soaked in its own oil / juices, Katsuhana has all the makings of a good Katsu specialist. Unfortunately the reused frying oil, average breading, and lack of quality Pork undermine the well-meaning intentions of this little eatery. To be fair, this is a simple eatery inside of a food court, but even with its humble location, it had the potential to be a great specialty restaurant, but it falls short. If you find yourself in the area and don't feel like Ramen (from the neighboring Santouka stand), then you might give Katsuhana a try. Otherwise, the search continues for a standout Tonkatsu specialist in L.A.

Rating: 6.0 (out of 10.0)

Katsuhana
(inside the Mitsuwa Market Food Court)
21515 Western Avenue
Torrance, CA 90501
(310) 782-0335

* Cash Only *

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 11:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m.


* El Borrego De Oro *
(A Slow-Roasted Lamb Specialist)

I first fell in love with the Mexican specialty dish of Slow-Roasted Lamb in Maguey Leaves - Barbacoa de Borrego - early last year at El Huarache Azteca in Highland Park. While it may not have been the most authentic version of the dish (they use a combination steam and roast method), it was flavorful enough to get me hooked, and ignite a search for the best version I could possibly find. :) El Huarache Azteca only serves their Lamb on the weekends, so when I heard about a specialist in L.A., that serves it 7 days a week(!), and that's their main focus, I couldn't wait to try it.


El Borrego De Oro (literally "Lamb of Gold") opened its first location along Whittier Boulevard in 2003 and has been serving their Lamb dishes on a daily basis ever since. Looking over their menu, it's shockingly expansive, with Wet Burritos, Enchiladas, Tortas, Mole Poblano, Crispy Tacos (all with a choice of Carne Asada, Chicken or Barbacoa) and much more. Undaunted, we order their specialty, the Hidalgo-style Barbacoa de Borrego (Slow Roasted Lamb in Maguey Leaves).

As we wait for our order, an enthusiastic musician enters the restaurant to sing to everyone and take requests.


We're presented with the condiments for the Lamb, with 2 types of Salsas - a Salsa Rojo and a Salsa Verde. The Rojo has a light smoky element, a type of roasted chili, but lacks the depth of a great Salsa Borracha. Their Salsa Verde has good notes of fresh Tomatillos and Jalapenos and is the spicier of the two. Still, after having experienced 2 outstanding specialists in Mexico and Chula Vista, with their array of 4 homemade, dynamic Salsas, these 2 selections here feel a bit underwhelming.




Finally our Barbacoa de Borrego (Slow-Roasted Lamb in Maguey Leaves) arrives. According to our waitress, their Lamb is slow-roasted in an underground pit (the traditional way) at an offsite location in the Chino Hills area (they feature pictures of this on their takeout menu).


And they surprisingly serve it with Rice and Refried Beans, and don't allow a choice of what part of the Lamb to order. Unlike the other specialty Barbacoa places I've tried (where you can choose the part of the Lamb you prefer: Costilla (Lamb Ribs), Maciza (Regular Lamb Meat from Shank and Shoulder), Faldita (Lamb Skirt), Cabeza (Head), and more), here, you're stuck with whatever's next in the bag. During each of my visits, I took a peek at their open kitchen and could see gigantic plastic bags that are filled with the Lamb meat. The kitchen members dutifully reach inside and grab the right amount per order and off it goes.


Unfortunately, while their intentions and origins are great (underground pit cooking for 7-8 hours), the transportation and final preparation fails: The Lamb is really dry and stringy. It lacks the depth of flavor of both Aqui es Texcoco and Barbacoa Ermita. Lamb that sits in a large plastic bag for hours at a time can't be doing good things for developing flavors.

Thankfully, their Consome (Lamb Consomme) fairs better, with a good depth of flavor and a surprisingly extremely spicy edge. The Garbanzo Beans are just cooked through and still have a good firmness to them, but with the overspicing, I prefer the Consome at Aqui es Texcoco over this version.


They offer a variety of Aguas Frescas, and on one visit, we try their Agua de Sandia (Fresh Watermelon Juice). It's pure Watermelon Juice (with maybe a touch of Sugar), but it's refreshing and delightful on this sunny day.


Their Mixiote (Marinated Lamb in a Special Spice Mixture (usually) cooked in Maguey Leaves) is a better offering than their namesake Barbacoa.


Opening up the foil covering, you're treated to a stark vision of deep crimson, with the Lamb covered with Guajillo Chili and their proprietary spice recipe.


The Lamb from the Mixiote is much more moist than their famous Barbacoa, due to the spice marinade covering it and the insulated foil wrapping. The spice blend is sharply incendiary and is tasty enough, but it's unfortunate that they don't use the traditional Maguey Leaves to cook this (using Aluminum Foil instead).


On a later visit, we notice that they do offer the Espaldilla de Borrego (Lamb Shoulder) in its entirety as a separate order, so we try that to see how it compares to the regular Barbacoa.


Sadly, since it's part of the same offsite cooking method, it's also transported the same way (in plastic bags) and it tastes only slightly better than the Barbacoa. The Shoulder meat is a bit more moist in some parts, partly due to the meat not having been pre-shredded into smaller chunks (as it is with their regular Barbacoa), but it tastes just as flat and grey as the regular Barbacoa with only moistness separating the two.

Service is what you'd expect from a simple, humble hole-in-the-wall restaurant: When you're seated, you flag down a server when you're ready to order, and for any other needs. Seating is quite crowded - you're usually elbow-to-elbow with other neighboring tables - in a very informal setting. Prices range from $12 - $13 for the Lamb, depending on if you want it with bones or without. Consomme is $2.75 for the regular, $3.85 for the large.

El Borrego De Oro represents another specialist that has so much potential but falls short due to distance, storage and seasoning issues. While it's encouraging to see pictures of their Barbacoa slowly cooking underground in a pit at some offsite location, the final dish given to the customer tastes like it could've been overcooked in their own ovens in the kitchen. While sheer volume must play a role in the resultant quality (they serve so much Lamb they pre-shred it and fill them up in large plastic bags to store before serving), places like Aqui es Texcoco (who serve it 7 days a week as well), prove that you can be a specialist and still maintain excellent juiciness, flavor and quality without having to compromise.

Rating: 5.5 (out of 10.0)

El Borrego De Oro #1
2403 Whittier Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90023
Tel: (323) 780-4213

* Cash Only *

Hours: Mon - Fri, 8:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.
Sat - Sun, 6:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

http://www.borregodeoro.com/

Read More...

The Soul Warming Food of Kagaya (or, What's the Difference Between Grade A4 and Grade A5 Wagyu Beef?)

As the winter chill begins to set in, one of the greatest pleasures for this time of year would have to be seeking out the foods that warm you from the inside out; a hot bowl of Chicken Noodle Soup, or a big mug of Hot Chocolate. And while there are many individual-portioned ways to warm up during the colder months, there's just something fun about the communal interactivity of Shabu Shabu, the Japanese meal involving everyone at the table cooking pieces of meat and vegetables in a pot of boiling broth (sorta like a Fondue). It seems like most Asian cultures have their version of this communal hot pot dish, which gives you a wide range of choices depending on your preference. But in terms of enjoying the flavors and quality of the meat and vegetables, Shabu Shabu at Kagaya in Little Tokyo would have to be my favorite spot in town.


2009 marks the 15th anniversary of Kagaya, helmed by Chef-Owner Masato Kagaya, who opened this restaurant after years of studying and cooking all forms of traditional Japanese cuisine in Kyoto and Tokyo (you can see examples of Masato-san's traditional training with the various small plates provided as part of the Shabu Shabu meal).

Kagaya is one of the most relaxed, cozy Shabu Shabu restaurants around town, with a simple, clean decor. With its limited number of tables, reservations are highly recommended. In fact, every time I've dined there (on weeknights and weekends), it's been at or near 100% capacity.

After placing your order, a communal metal pot filled with a housemade Broth of Chicken, Katsuobushi (Dried Bonito Shavings) and Konbu (Kelp) is placed at the center of the table (you can also dine at the bar area, where individual metal pots are provided if you're dining solo or prefer your own individual cooking vessel).


The menu is relatively simple at Kagaya, with a focus on quality Beef (3 types) and a Seafood assortment. All of the 7 combination set meals include 2 seasonal appetizers, a soup course, vegetables, choice of Udon Noodles or a Zosui Rice dish, and one of the homemade Desserts.

During my first visit, Chef Masato starts us off with a Hirame Carpaccio. The Halibut meat is fresh and bright, with a nice Red Peppercorn, Shiso Leaf and Green Onion combination of flavors, allowing a pointed herbal facet to stand up to the Ponzu dressing. The only misstep in this dish would have to be one piece of gristle/connective tissue in one of the slices of Hirame.


Their Yude Ebi (Boiled Shrimp) Soup is delightfully slippery and sweet, tender, yet still firm with an herbal edge, befitting a place within the parade of dishes served in a Kaiseki meal.



Their Tofu to Hamo no Agedashi (Fried Tofu and Conger Eel) is another good dish.


Chef Masato uses just the right amount of Katakuriko (Potato Starch) so as to not overwhelm the Agedashi Tofu, and the Hamo (Conger Eel) has a fresh, lightly buttery taste, with a clean oil background. It's not going to dethrone Inaba's seasonal Hamo Tempura, but for a non-Tempura specialist, this is quite good.


On another visit, we're presented with Halibut and Tonburi in housemade Ponzu Sauce.


Tonburi (Summer Cypress Seeds) are relatively rare in So Cal, so it's great to experience them when they're offered. The Halibut this time is beautifully mild and clean, with the Tonburi giving off a nice woodsy, grassy note to the dish.


Another outstanding Soup we've had is their Monkfish and Seaweed Soup.


The Ankou (Monkfish) has such a great firmness and a satisfying chew that's still yielding and pliable, all bathed in a light, airy broth.


Their Me-Kajiki (Swordfish) served with Daikon Oroshi (Grated Daikon Radish) and Shishito Pepper is probably the only disappointing appetizer I've had so far.


It's a chunkier, meatier fish, but it was a touch overcooked (dried out on the edges), but getting into the center meat that was still moist, when combined with the Daikon Oroshi and Shishito made for a great flavor combination: A satisfying, smoky meatiness combined with the finely grated, smooth, cooling Daikon Radish, and the fragrant Shishito Pepper.


With the main Shabu Shabu course about to begin, we're presented with 2 types of dipping sauces: A homemade citrus-y Ponzu Sauce and a more aromatic, nutty Gomadare (Sesame Seed) Sauce.



With each of the 7 Shabu Shabu Courses, you're served a plateful of assorted fresh vegetables, usually Hakusai (Napa Cabbage), Shungiku (Chrysanthemum Greens) and Negi (Green Onions), along with Shiitake Mushrooms, Tofu and Harusame Noodles (made from Mung Bean and/or Potato Starch).




I enjoy letting as many flavors combine as long as possible, so I usually add in a good portion of each of the ingredients right at the start (when the broth begins to simmer).


Kagaya's menu features 3 types of Beef (USDA Prime Rib, Grade A4 Wagyu Beef and Grade A5 Wagyu Beef) and a fixed Seafood mix of Alaskan King Crab, Oysters and Clams. You can order Seafood only, or a combination of one of the 3 types of Beef with Seafood. Over our multiple visits, we've tried the Mix Shabu Shabu A Course (USDA Prime Rib + Seafood) and Mix Shabu Shabu C Course (Premium Wagyu Beef (Grade A5) + Seafood), and just pure Seafood, and the mixture has always been consistently the same.



And while the Alaskan King Crab that's served with the Shabu Shabu course is frozen, it's been consistently lightly sweet, oceanic and delicious. (Note, they also serve Live King Crab depending on the season, so be sure to check with your server.)


For the Oyster, Kagaya alternates between Hama Hamas and Kumamotos depending on the availability with their supplier. In experimenting with the Oysters cooking time, I've enjoyed them most with a quick 5 second dip into the boiling broth: They end up lightly poached, lightly briny and still silky and delicious. :)

The Clams are probably the only disappointment in the Seafood assortment: They're OK, but in the few times I've tried them, they've turned out a bit too briny for my tastes.


But at the end of the day, it's all about the glorious Beef at Kagaya. While many Asian hot pot restaurants are focused on quantity, Kagaya's aim is on quality, with 3 types of top-quality Beef: USDA Prime, Grade A4 *and* Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Miyazaki, Japan. (FYI: U.S. Prime is the highest grade offered in the U.S. for Beef, but in Japan, their scale has more criteria and rates Beef in 15(!) levels, from C1 - A5, going beyond USDA Prime's limit. The maximum Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Japan is quite expensive.)

Having experienced simple, neighborhood Shabu Shabu restaurants and a variety of economically priced Chinese Hot Pot establishments in So Cal, I was curious just how much of a difference USDA Prime Beef would be from the typical offerings around town.


The USDA Prime has consistently featured some good marbling and a beautiful vibrant red during each of our visits.


Taking a bite: Outstanding. (^_^)

The USDA Prime is buttery (but not overwhelming so), with a light, perceptible beefiness (so many Beef dishes these days seem to lack this quality). It goes well with both the homemade Ponzu and the Gomadare Sesame Sauce. It's become my favorite version of Beef offered at Shabu Shabu restaurants in So Cal. :)


A note on the cooking times: For Shabu Shabu, the thinly-sliced Beef cooks very fast. A mere 4 seconds of swishing back and forth for USDA Prime results in a medium-well doneness already (but it's still juicy). Here's an example of Grade A5 Wagyu cooking for just 5 *seconds*:


While we've seen some restaurants slowly offering the most expensive Grade A5 Wagyu Beef from Japan, I've never run across a restaurant in So Cal offering Grade A4 Wagyu Beef (just 1 step below the maximum grade), so I was excited and curious to see how it would compare with Grade A5. Kagaya's Grade A4 Wagyu Beef from Miyazaki, Japan is listed simply as "Wagyu Beef" on the menu.


There's noticeably more marbling in comparison with USDA Prime while still having a good amount of lean meat.


Having gotten our cooking times down, we try the Grade A4 Wagyu Beef at a variety of doneness levels. Here's one piece at just 3 seconds of cooking:


The Grade A4 Wagyu turns out to be much more buttery than the USDA Prime, but it tastes flat. It lacks the beefiness, but partially makes up for it with a superior texture and mouthfeel (if you prefer a softer, more buttery taste). Still, between these 2 grades for Shabu Shabu, the USDA Prime is the way to go.

Finally, we try their maximum Grade A5 Wagyu Beef also from Miyazaki, Japan, listed as "Premium Wagyu Beef" on the menu.


At first glance, you immediately notice the excessive marbling, even more than the Grade A4, and inevitably there's a gleam in everyone's eye when this comes out (it's happened every time I've brought a guest to try this). :)


Trying it rare to medium-rare, it's wonderfully buttery - clearly superior to the Grade A4 - but like the A4, it lacks the beefiness and tastes a little flat. Perhaps it's the expectations of maximum Grade A5 Wagyu, but then I remember the wonderful, fragrant, version of A5 Wagyu Filet Mignon from The Steak House, and that exhibited a good light beefiness. And also the amazing Grade A5 Hokkaido-Gyu I've had at Urasawa (3 different ways): They've also been outstanding in texture and flavor. Having tried it barely poached (2 seconds), rare, medium-rare, medium-well, all resulted in the same conclusion: Thinly-sliced A5 Miyazaki Wagyu just doesn't hold up well with Shabu Shabu cooking; it's all texture (great texture), with no flavor.


So, surprisingly and shockingly, after having tried all 3 types of Beef a few times, the overwhelming favorite for my guests and myself would have to be the USDA Prime(!). The thicker-cut A5 Hokkaido-Gyu (also cooked Shabu Shabu style) at Urasawa trumps any of these, but I'm more than happy with the USDA Prime here at Kagaya. Delicious! :)


After the main meal is over, you're offered a choice of Udon Noodles or Zosui (Rice Porridge), both of which are made from the remaining Broth from the Shabu Shabu Course. Both are prepared tableside, with the Zosui offering a nice, tart element with the always delectable Umeboshi (Pickled Japanese Plum).


The Udon Noodles are even lighter, with a fresh-cracked scrambled Egg, Green Onions, Salt and Black Pepper added to the Broth to finish it.


The housemade Takuan (Pickled Daikon) is outstanding! A great, crisp crunch and bite, beautifully floral and so herbal, it's a great complement to the Zosui (Rice Porridge).


For dessert, their Baked Apple Pie is a great finisher.


It's more of a deconstructed Apple Pie than anything, but with a crispy, flaky crust and a pleasantly deep Apple flavor, without being overly sweet.


Their Green Tea Mousse is actually extremely light, and only lightly sweetened, being more neutral than anything. This allows the Matcha (Premium Green Tea)'s slightly bitter and herbal notes to come through more clearly. The touch of Red Beans and a mellow Cream are a great finishing touch.


The service has been consistently fine. If we were sitting at a table, the ~2-3 servers would periodically come around and check on each table, or you can flag them down for any needs. Sitting at the main Shabu Shabu bar, Chef-Owner Masato Kagaya personally oversees each customer in that area, and without you asking, will quietly call a server over to refill drinks, clear plates and/or help any customer that needs it. Prices for the Shabu Shabu Courses run from $43 (for the USDA Prime) up to $128 (Grade A5 Wagyu Beef). You can also order additional plates of Beef or Seafood (in Half Portions or Full Portions), ranging from $12 (USDA Prime, Half Order) - $110 (Grade A5 Wagyu, Full Order).

As a great defense against the oncoming wintry nights, Kagaya offers up outstanding quality Beef to be enjoyed in a family-style atmosphere. While their Grade A4 and A5 Wagyu Beef are enticing offerings, this is one case where the cheapest option on the menu is surprisingly their best choice (USDA Prime), especially considering the $43 vs. $128 price tag. If the thought of gathering up some friends and family, enjoying a variety of Vegetables, Seafood and top-quality Beef - Shabu Shabu style - in a warm, cozy atmosphere sounds good, then look no further than Kagaya in Little Tokyo.

Rating: 8.0 (out of 10.0)

Kagaya
(in Honda Plaza in Little Tokyo)
418 E. 2nd Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Tel: (213) 617-1016

Hours: Tue - Sat, 6:00 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Sun, 6:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays.

Read More...